zKars

PM's replied. Thanks gang!

I'll keep zcarsource in mind. I have to make a little heat escape this winter that neck of the woods so I'll bring one back if I don't find one by then. Steve, if the panel you have is for the early 260 with the 240 like skinny chrome bumper, it may be ok. THe late 260 has the 280 valence components. Definite no-fit. Can you measure the width distance between the pair of mount holes on each end? and the overall width of the panel? Maybe post a picture. Or just send all that to z240@shaw.ca. Thanks!

Rarely do I get to beg for assistance with parts, but I need help finding something. I'm working on a nice early 71, and need a nice stock front center front valance panel. This is the trim body panel that spans across the front under the bumper between the left and right valance panels that hold the turn/marker light assemblies on the 70-74 240/260. Straightness trumps rust condition or color, although minimal rust is best of course. Show me what you have and what you'd like for it. Sorry the 75-78 center valance panel does not work in this application. I have infinite fun things to trade, just let me know what you'd like. Remember I'm in the land of the 70 cent / US dollar up here in Canadia, so be kind with your asking price. Surely many of you have replaced the stock pieces with one of the lovely eurathane air dams. Please don't tell me you "just tossed mine", I'll cry.

The splines in the steering column are free to engage at any clocking. Should count those splines and see if they match the steering wheel splines. Should be pretty similar. THat way you can stuff the shaft back up the column at any clocking and adjust the wheel back to center without any mis-alignment.

Bring it home. Bring it home. It needs a forever family. It's Christmas! It can't be alone at this time of year.

That's kind of you to offer! Please check if the console is still there, especially the ash tray/fuse area cover and defroster switch. Thanks!

I recently reminded myself about the difference in heaadlight switch sets over the various years. I was shocked to be re-reminded of how fragile the early switch sets are compared to later ones in terms of the wiring not just the switch contacts. They increased the wire gauge after the series 1 cars that lead to the HL switches (not to mention moving the switch from the ground side to the fuse side), The switches and the contacts themselves are identical internally from 70-78. The wiring, not so much. I can't emphasis enough the need to upgrade to a relay system no matter what type of headlight you end up using. Don't forget to service (clean) the contacts where the new harness connects to the old head light connectors up front. Those things are exposed to the elements and are always grundgy.

Chas has the right idea. Part is available through Amazon.com and many others I'm sure. http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0280161006-Fuel-Pressure-Damper/dp/B000CF5W10

Surprise! Most don't know about that two piece column with that set of splines hidden in there. Nows the time to remove that shaft and grease up those splines. Takes out some slop. Also inspect the two ujoints in that shaft, likely the cups are dry and again, you have some slop you don't need. Search for that thread about replacing those u-joints.

I purchased them several years ago now from the designer. They have been contributing to my driving experience ever since. They do not encroach on left foot space, my #12's fit in there just fine. Bit sad it's 240 only, as 260/280's ECU (not 260 duh) and new fancy big fuse box on the right make this mod impractical.

That is such a cool thing to discover. There are so many inter-related actions and reactions to consider. Good sleuthing.

Looks to me like a drilled hole that's been plugged. Is that directly opposite the oil feed hole to the cam towers?

No bolt should be a mystery that needs our help to figure out.. With few exceptions most bolts are 4/0.7, 5/0.8, 6/1.0, 8/1.25, 10/1.5 (into engine block or trans) or 10/1.25 or 12/1.25 (suspension). Lengths can always be estimated by adding the thickness of what is being bolted down + 2 times the bolt diameter. I'd go buy one bolt and nut of each thread and use them for test fits anytime you have a question.

The main bolt is 6 x 1.0 and about 15mm long. It has a 10 mm head. The other one that faces down is a 8mm head. That's a 5x0.8mm bolt maybe 10mm long. Which one are we talking about?

No big mysterys here. with the large strike load this part recieves, these components don't move much, they absorb energy via compression. That spring is very short and tight, I wouldn't expect you could move it by hand. Of the several old usd examples I have, not one has the dangly rubber bit still attached. All are broken off like your left one. 240zrubberparts has the replacement rubber bits for the latch side, which are also almost always gone. The rubber we are talking about wouldn't be replaceable without disassembling that spring pin and that doesn't seem practical.

So perfect they even use silicon nipple caps that are just about the correct Nissan blue

So today for the ump-teen'th time, I find myself putting a 5 speed on a L6 block on the shop floor. Usually goes pretty smooth. I use an old trans input shaft as a clutch disk alignment tool, really helps to get the splines lined up perfect. I hate those plastic POS things that come with clutch kits. Just not close enough. A set of wheels at just the right height under the trans tail to take the weight, SCHLOOOP on she goes. Usually...... But today being a full moon and all, and me being alone, I guess the planets don't line up and neither did my transmission with the splines and pilot bushing. After a couple of hours of cursing and sweating I gave up had to resort to a different plan. I have the luxury of an overhead hoist, so I re-oriented my chains to the rear of the block and put the motor on its nose. Added a couple of stabilizing out-riggers to the engine mount brackets for safety and secuity. Remember to drain the oil too or leave the dizzy, fuel pump and valve cover on or you'll be rust proofing the shop floor. Coolant too.. This one's fresh'ish so, no fluids yet. Gave my tranny a big hug and dropped it straight on the engine. Still took a bit of wiggling and twistin, but suddenly, POOP, on it went. Problem solved. As if the previous morning's 'joy' wasn't enough, I decided to spin the crank bolt and watch the old driveshaft yoke I have poked in the tranny end rotate to prove the job is complete (and the clutch is engaged, ie I picked the right release sleeve, but I digress... ). So I put the 27mm socket on the crank and spin away. drive shaft does move. oh oh. ok, out of gear. Move the stick shifter into gear. Rachet crank again. still no rotating of the output. WTF.... So it turns out that you can in fact put the driveshaft yoke into the transmission too far. I was at one point hammering the end of the yoke to 'help' the trans mate with the block, and in so doing, I pushed it in so far it got past the splines. Just another silly lesson learned to share. Happy trans swapping. Oh, and who's free tomorrow AM for an engine insertion? I can do it myself, but that's just not wise. Not with the full moon and all....

Yup, 1/2 BSPT. 14 TPI. Tapered pipe thread. Now, since 1/2 NPT is also 14 TPI, I'll say the likely un-popular thing and suggest you could use the NPT equivalent in its place with little consequence. Happy threading and plugging. BTW, this was checked on an N42 block. I don't think this varied across the various L6 blocks. Remind me to put that thing back in....

The head is 22mm. but I'm guessing you mean the thread size. Let me get one and check. My guess is 1/2 inch BSPT.

Wait! I see two wire harnesses in that picture. Me thinks you have the harness that is supposed to split off and run along the roof to the interior light laying in the back there. That connection is the one that goes to the spade connector on that roof light. No fun to re-route that harness....

ah, now I understand. I am totally baffled as to the use of those wires. There are no electical components in that area that these could be connected to. Check if this connection is connected to ground with a multi-meter, or if it gets +12volts when the key is on or lights are one, or ???? Possible it was wires for speakers added by a past owner? Taped onto the existing harness? Other Guesses?

I think that removing the coil wire and just cranking in 10 second bursts for 3-4 cycles until you see some oil pressure prior to initial spring start up might accomplish about 90% of what you're doing with the clever oil injection apparatus. This however would not allow one to have wonderful inventive ideas and then to be able to implement them with various machine, flame and spark producing tools. So forget I mentioned the above. Back to the shop! That's where I'm going!

Glad you're making progress. Wish we had a simple way to measure flow, not pressure. Running pressure is irrelavant, all it has to do is keep the bowl full, which is a flow determined variable. The car would run perfectly at 0.25 psi if the pump could flow enough to keep the bowls full at all times. The 4 psi is just a ceiling that shouldn't be exceeded as the float valves can't keep back any more. Remember its all big system. The fuel lines, the return lines, the fuel filter and the flow valves in the carbs are resistors, the pump is a voltage source. The flowrate (current) is determined by the resistance in the circuit at the applied pressure. Unfortunately the pump pressure can vary depending on the supply and return circuit. Complicated. There are an infinite number of pumps and plumbing arrangments that will let the car run just fine. Thats why you find so many people with a huge variety of systems who's car's run just fine. The problems occur at the extremes. Long term high flow rates (can the pump really keep the bowls full?), extended life (is the pump always deadheading most of the fuel, and getting hot?) etc etc etc....

The shifter bushings are larger. I had a few of both of these in a bag and didn't realize they were different until I tried to use the throttle bushing in the tranny.. oooppss...