zKars

Sounds like a real mess. A stock wheel does sit in the "best" position for sure. Most aftermarket wheel adapters tend to move it toward the driver, although many such wheels have less dish to compensate. I wouldn't call stock 240 steering wheels in North America rare by any stretch, I just got one from a 73 yesterday from a friend and I have others. I'm in the middle of refinishing this one, but I can stop here and let you complete it your way. The rim is sanded and the spokes are sandblasted and primed. I can put the red stain I always use on it or not, your choice. Let me know what you're willing to spend on one (don't aim high) and I'll happily ship it out to you. I have the horn pad and everything, its in great shape. At least you have another option if you can't find one locally.

How many do you need? One I guess. drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll get one on the way. Send you one for the price of a stamp

I like making fun of google parts search results. When I look at the matches you get with SUS's link about I live the one quote from nissancheapparts.com www.nissanpartscheap.com/OEMParts/nissan-142/3/36541E4101.html We are a leading online supplier for 36541E4101. I bet you $50 bucks that don't have the part in stock and get even get one. Generic cut and paste crap meaningless statements. Do they honestly believe anyone who reads that actually believe what is said or that it lends them any credibility? Man, am I becoming a grumpy old man or what? oh yeah, and "I'm" the leading supplier of 36541-E4100, not them!

If you can't find one, I can send you a spare. Let me know at z240@shaw.ca

Tighten until they break then back off 1/4 turn. Seriously, 8mm bolts into aluminum, oh lets say, 15 ft-lbs should do it. Torque might be in the FSM, check out xenons30.com/reference, get the FSM for the 76 280z, look in the engine section. Oh well, after checking my self, the closest they had was the front cover bolts, and they only want 7-11 ft-lbs. Ok, then , just make them tight enoug so coolant doesn't leak out. There.

Sorry, I think you are confused about which hex items are the adjusters and the lock nuts. The 24mm hex at the base on the head surface are NOT something you undo. The 17mm lock nut is above that, and the 14mm hex that you rotate to adjust height, are on the top of the balls that seat in the end of the rocker arms. They are just hiding under the end of the rocker arms. Take a closer look, I see them in picture 4. As far as correct lash specs, using stock specs is perfectly safe. All your sacrificing (maybe) is some performance. Just make sure you have SOME lash and you can't hurt anything.

They are the same. Well, the 280 pedals are made with a thicker cross section rod, as some of the early ones actually bent and snapped with too much "spirited" use.

Subaru R180's have that flap on theie cover gaskets I've seen, but not a plate like that. Someone made that for sure! Maybe a spacer for specific diff placement?

The SU choke linkage not only lowers the jet tube to richen the mix, it also mechanically actuates the throttle linkage to increase idle speed. The interconnecting rod can be bent to adjust how much idle is added with how much choke lever actuation. It does take some time and twiddling (technical term, sorry I know...) to get these inter-related items all working together properly.

You're missing the flat plate that is referenced above in post #20 from zccjdm. It goes between the dizzy and the base mount. The plate mounts to the dizzy with a 5mm bolt up from the bottom, then the 6mm adjustment bolt goes down through the plate into the base hole. The base on the right in the pictures is the right one you need, you're just missing the intermediary plate. I have one if no one closer chimes in.

jalex Can you give me a link to one or two of the ebay ads you found? I'd be surprised if one them works as a direct mount for our blocks that also puts the pulley in the right position to mate to the damper pulley grooves. If they do exist I'd love to know the source. I've done four Gen II vintage air installs on Z's (ok, one 510) and always just made a bracket to mount it where it has to go. Vintage Air has a set of generic compressor mounting plates to use as a starting point. http://www.vintageair.com/2014catalog/Pages%20from%202014%20VintageAir%20Cat%20rev%208-15%2069.pdf part 151015, universal fabricators bracket. BTW there is nothing premade to make any of this whole process easy. Between making the mounting bracket, adapting the control panel into the console, routing air ducts and adapting them to the dash outlets, wiring, underdash evap/blower mounting, condensor mounting, refrig hose creating/routing/, etc etc etc its all "create it from scratch using your imagination". Installs now take me about 35-50 hours depending on the level of detail fit and finish I'm trying to achieve. It's worth it in the end. It kept my Z cool in Arizona and back for ZCON 2012 and to San Diego and back via Vegas in August while running on low.

not sure if i want to confuse this but i'm pretty sure its a phillips head. I'm travelling and can't take a look at a spare. The only other slot head screws on a datsun that I can think of are the set screws on the choke knob and fan knob. and maybe the heater control knobs. So what possible reason would that set screw on the trip cable have to be a slot head.... Now I'm confused...

Your oil pump gasket issue was likely caused by problems with the sealing surfaces rather than the gasket itself. Being a simple flat piece of material it relies on the flatness and cleanliness of the metal on either side to get a seal. The gasket itself would have to extremely irregular in thickness or have holes rips or voids to not be able to seal such a simple situation if the mating surfaces wereclean and in good condition. Even a deep corrosion pit in the front cover or oil pump face might be the cause of the leak rather than the gasket. Im not discounting the possibility of cheaper materials that don't survive routine handling as well, or don't conform as well to "well used" surfaces, but lets be cautious about placing on the blame on gaskets while not mentioning the importance of proper surface prep.

I'll go look at it and or pick it up and store temporarily if someone out there wants it. I want it, but would never survive the backlash from the better half if I brought it home and announced it had to live with us.

Found it. Well, actually I found two! Both are the 240Z text. One is going to the Duffman, the other is up for grabs. Make me an offer. They are rolled up and stashed in a sandwich baggie in the same shipping tube that Arne sent them to me in. Little wrinkly, but no creases.

Sent ya a PM. thks

you know I have one of these that I bought way back when and then, it just never got used. I'd be willing to part with it, I'll check if its the 240z or the Datsun one....

Do you have your swap parts all gathered? I can help with that if you need goodies. Clutch pedal? engine plate? hydraulic line? Let us know what you need. Don't forget the knock the spacer off the end of the crank and to put a pilot bushing in the guide hole in the end of the crank.

I'm sad, but so very very thankful for the happiness his life's accomplishments have brought to the lives of so many and how that will continue for a very long time. Rest in Peace Mr K, and thanks for my most marvelous little Z....

Yes, just stuff a cork in it. It's wide open to the inside of the air cleaner, PAST the filter, so it can suck bad things into the carbs.

Don't bother. No fiitty... Very different.

The spindle pins can be removed easily. Just pull. FSM says so, must be true.

orangetang. got one down in Calgary here. Drop me a line with your address to z240@shaw.ca and I'll get one on the way.

Siteunseen, its interesting for you to note that MSA has STILL not solved their shipping quality issues. The very first header I bought from them, oh, 5-6 years ago (longer?), and a couple since, have ALL been more or less tossed in a box loose and have arrived with some degree or other of shipping damage. Yes they always made it right when I brought this up with them, but you'd think by now something would have clicked....

Generally I've been impressed with the MSA headers I've seen in the last few years. Build quality is great, flange is nice and thick. As long as the weld on the OUTSIDE to the flange is ok, these gaps will not cause a leak. I'd go around each port with a ball peen hammer and make that tube fit over to the flange better to maximum flow area, and make sure it does NOT stick up past the flange at all anywhere. As long as the flange thickness is the same as a stock flange so those fat washers fit evenly and distribute pressure correctly, it will be fine.