zKars

not sure if i want to confuse this but i'm pretty sure its a phillips head. I'm travelling and can't take a look at a spare. The only other slot head screws on a datsun that I can think of are the set screws on the choke knob and fan knob. and maybe the heater control knobs. So what possible reason would that set screw on the trip cable have to be a slot head.... Now I'm confused...

Your oil pump gasket issue was likely caused by problems with the sealing surfaces rather than the gasket itself. Being a simple flat piece of material it relies on the flatness and cleanliness of the metal on either side to get a seal. The gasket itself would have to extremely irregular in thickness or have holes rips or voids to not be able to seal such a simple situation if the mating surfaces wereclean and in good condition. Even a deep corrosion pit in the front cover or oil pump face might be the cause of the leak rather than the gasket. Im not discounting the possibility of cheaper materials that don't survive routine handling as well, or don't conform as well to "well used" surfaces, but lets be cautious about placing on the blame on gaskets while not mentioning the importance of proper surface prep.

I'll go look at it and or pick it up and store temporarily if someone out there wants it. I want it, but would never survive the backlash from the better half if I brought it home and announced it had to live with us.

Found it. Well, actually I found two! Both are the 240Z text. One is going to the Duffman, the other is up for grabs. Make me an offer. They are rolled up and stashed in a sandwich baggie in the same shipping tube that Arne sent them to me in. Little wrinkly, but no creases.

Sent ya a PM. thks

you know I have one of these that I bought way back when and then, it just never got used. I'd be willing to part with it, I'll check if its the 240z or the Datsun one....

Do you have your swap parts all gathered? I can help with that if you need goodies. Clutch pedal? engine plate? hydraulic line? Let us know what you need. Don't forget the knock the spacer off the end of the crank and to put a pilot bushing in the guide hole in the end of the crank.

I'm sad, but so very very thankful for the happiness his life's accomplishments have brought to the lives of so many and how that will continue for a very long time. Rest in Peace Mr K, and thanks for my most marvelous little Z....

And my grass is green in Calgary in February and I'm thinking of going for Z drive this weekend. Never had a warming winter. Sorry the east coast has to bear the brunt of the imbalance.

Yes, just stuff a cork in it. It's wide open to the inside of the air cleaner, PAST the filter, so it can suck bad things into the carbs.

Don't bother. No fiitty... Very different.

The spindle pins can be removed easily. Just pull. FSM says so, must be true.

orangetang. got one down in Calgary here. Drop me a line with your address to z240@shaw.ca and I'll get one on the way.

Siteunseen, its interesting for you to note that MSA has STILL not solved their shipping quality issues. The very first header I bought from them, oh, 5-6 years ago (longer?), and a couple since, have ALL been more or less tossed in a box loose and have arrived with some degree or other of shipping damage. Yes they always made it right when I brought this up with them, but you'd think by now something would have clicked....

Generally I've been impressed with the MSA headers I've seen in the last few years. Build quality is great, flange is nice and thick. As long as the weld on the OUTSIDE to the flange is ok, these gaps will not cause a leak. I'd go around each port with a ball peen hammer and make that tube fit over to the flange better to maximum flow area, and make sure it does NOT stick up past the flange at all anywhere. As long as the flange thickness is the same as a stock flange so those fat washers fit evenly and distribute pressure correctly, it will be fine.

Ton's of 10 x 1.25 bolts in the suspension and other spots on a Z, pretty much any time a 10mm bolt threads into the body or suspension component. Also on trans hanger brackets and insulators. Blue did pull a listing for that specific bolt from a 510 as being the one that bolts the cross member to the trans insulator. But for a Z, its the (earlier 08114 - 02510 number) is the bolt that holds the rear bumper mount to the body. 10x1.5 bolts are only found in the engine block and transmission housings.

I believe I've seen 600 as the number for a full engine/trans package with everything dripping wet. I used to have a double 2x6 across two ceiling trusses from which I hung a chain hoist and pulled full eng/trnas packages for years. Roof is still where I left it.

"patina"

siteunseen has the correct sequence in the picture. The sheet metal style screws with cup washers thread into spring clips that go over the holes in the hatch. That dang panel has to be well sealed to the body or you get exhaust fumes into the cabin via the wide open hatch latch assembly in the back center of the hatch. I imagine the factory envisioned those panels saging with age (they were dead right!) and wanted those screws to help hold them flatter and tighter for longer...

Even the angle grinder he's using near the end has no guard and he's in bare hands. I'm officially embarrased to be a Canuck..... Want to see some really cool lathe work? Search for aluminum spinning like this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vh2yM_sRGr0 Sorry if you waste your day watching this stuff....

From San Diego it seems. I believe there may be a fairly sizable body of salt water quite nearby.... I'm going to e-mail them and strongly suggest they stop driving the car due to safety reasons....

Only way cam position is directly related to piston position is when they are linked together solidly. This only happens in normal rotation direction with no slack. TDC is only to be measured at the piston, not at the balancer notch/pointer or cam plate notch as this introduces sources of error between TRUE TDC at the piston and those indicating sites. Now all that said, depends on what you're trying to accomplish.

There are plenty of dipsticks around here! Someone can help you for sure. I'm just a bit short of SU cores at the moment....

Re clutch release collar, search on "92mm". This is the total height from flywheel face to place on release collar where the forks touch when you have the right collar. We have an extensive thread that verified this from several users. +/- a couple of mm is okay too.

Longer studs are determined by your choice of wheel and how you want them to sit in the fender well if you find you need a spacer to push them outward. The rotor position is only thing that is moved with the z31 rotor spacer for this upgrade. The hub still fits the strut spindle in exactly the same place, and the wheel mount surface (base of the wheel studs) does not move in or out with this mod. Only other "need for longer studs" I can imagine might be the need to get longer 10x1.25 bolts to put that new spacer between the rotor and hub if the spacers didn't come with new longer hardware. The stock ones are much too short to add that 0.663 spacer. s30_Toyota_frontRotor Adapte.pdf