zKars

Help. Weak... Have turkey poisoning... Apparently cranberry sauce and gravy are NOT antidotes... Please save me...

The only way anyone has the right to poke fun at someone elses mistakes, is if they have a degree from the university of doing silly things. As anyone who has worked with me knows, I have a PhD from there.

The best solution to the points setting issue is get rid of the points. There are several reluctor based distributors available, from later ZX dizzys that bolt right in to Pertronix aftermarket and even uber fancy fully programmable ones from 123IgnitionUSA. Points are SO last century....

You're going to feel silly when you pull that rubber protector off the threads... The two threaded holes in the crossmember were used for an optional weight that was hung off the crossmember to counteract vibration. Nothing for you to do.

I'm not positive, but I'm willing to bet its a 4 x 0.7 mm machine screw. Can't go look at the moment but can confirm tonight. The part number is 08310-40612 if that helps you find some at the dealer or similar

My favorite part (always) is when they drive away smiling from ear to ear, or maybe when I listen to the sweet exhaust note fading into the distance, with their foot in it 'cause they can't resist... Glad to help you keep the dream alive.

Sorry, didn't make my joke/point clear enough. Those who want their car "just like it came from the factory" would not accept rebuilt Z therapy carbs if they had the choice of real, period correct, unused, brand new SU's. Even if they ran noticibly worse... Just wouldn't be right...

Better running, undoubtly. But they are not "right".....

oh baby... any close up shots of its under belly?

Pretty sure you mean "Chevette" springs. Pretty much the same car, right?

I'm Baaaaaack.. Something came in the mail yesterday. It's a lovely 15x40mm u-joint. I believe we have a staked u-joint replacement option. Way to find a good one CanTechZ! I've confirmed the cap OD is nearly identical to the stockers. I have not yet done the actual replacement on a real live specimen (some one elses Z keeps getting in the way...) , but have started the process. Truth #1. You cannot disassemble the yokes without distroying the u-joint. You can't drive the caps inward far enough to get press the opposite one out far enough to grab it to remove it. Good thing there is enough room to cut right through the yoke legs with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel. Once the yoke center section is gone, just pound the caps through to the middle to remove them. Begin by cleaning the cap area very well (sand blasted in the pictures) then dremeling off the little peened in ears with a small carbide rotary bit. Remove the yoke by cutting through the legs with a cut off wheel. Clean up the staked areas to ensure no protusion into the cap bore. Put new yoke in, pound in new caps from the outside. Put steering shaft back in car. About the only fly in the ointment at this point is how to retain the caps in the ujoint. There is no provision for clips of any sort, and the 40mm length puts the cap pretty flush with the yoke face (I think, have not done this yet), not sunk like the stockers with room for staking -Spot weld cap to yoke body. -Fill whatever small depression exists at the cap with epoxy? -drill and thread a hole in the side of the yoke (x 4) for a small set screw? -put head in sand and assume these will never work their way out in your lifetime? Please add to the list of brilliance I know you are all capable of.

I apologise for my careless use of grade information. The head of the stock bolt has a "9" on it. I believe this is equivalent to ISO grade 10.9 as John mentions. Look for this designation on the bolt head if you go to buy a metric bolt from a supplier. These are important bolts, don't skimp on the quality.

30 mm is the length. 12x1.25 is correct. Grade 9. They are special Nissan bolts with a shoulder that fits the steering knuckle tightly.

Incredible! The pictures do not do them justice. I can imagine the sparkle of the facets in the sunlight. Power them up and bask in their radiance for 15 min. Get that last bit of tanning in before winter sets in.

There is a spring washer and cotter pin in that connection. The end of the J hook should be a nice fit through the holes in the U shaped hole too to remove as much chance for motion. Also evaluate all the ball joints from pedal to that J hook too.

This threaed has some help for you I hope that shows the changes in the slave cylinders. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/32084-rear-wheel-cylinder-question-difference-between-left-right.html You are faced with bending your current lines or creating new ones.

Its the dizzy point gap feeler gauge. I know that's pretty old technology, but come on gang! I knew I was destined to be a Datsun mechanic when I discovered by thumbnail was 0.35 mm thick about a 100 years ago...

Oh my... I might have a new best friend!

If you choose to go with a sealant, be very very careful to use JUST enough to create the gasket, with NO squeeze out. You cannot afford to plug any oil holes....

Brilliant! didn't catch that. Thanks! Only one way to find out if they fit. I have a pair ordered.

Nice bind CanTech! Now who would have thought there would be a u-joint store? Surprised there isn't a smallujoints.com.... Steering Ujoints oh oh... The part description shows both 15x40 AND 16x40.... Wonder which one is right.... I see they stock the infamous ATV700 as well, though the price is NOT the best in town....

No carbide bits in the house. I believe this is an excuse to go buy some however! Yes, schrapnel from the hole may be an issue, must drill "just' through. On the 16mm caps, I tend to agree on the likelyhood of the ends being hardened too, but the 15mm caps looks decidely less "robust". They are quite a different construction type. They almost appear to be a shell wrapped around a core (the actual race), so maybe the ends of the cap are soft. Could be me just being optomistic, but until I lay bit to cap, I'll reserve judgement.

Today I did a bit more hunting for u-joints that might fit the smaller staked style 15mm size. I'm afraid I have bad news. I looked at Motor Master's web site, as they seem to be a huge supplier of ujoints for all ATV-like machinery, and found the specs for the ATV700 MotorMaster I then called them and asked if they had a catalogue with specs for all their u-joints that I could peruse at my leisure to find one that fits, but the nice lady said "tell me the specs and I'll tell you if we have it" so I said, "Same as the ATV700 but with a 15mm bearing OD instead of 16mm". She had a look and announced the ATV700 has the smallest bearing of all the u-joints they have...... I did find a couple of useful things on their site though: This about staked ujoints and how to upgrade them to clip style. http://motormasterpowersports.com/UserFiles/File/What%20is_Staked-In.pdf and one picture I found very interesting. Who says you have to have the zerk in the cross? Hell, just drill a cap!! I think my bits can handle that.. Maybe there's hope of reviving those little u-joints after all if we can't replace 'em!

The pass side guard isthere specifically to shield the gas tank fill tube not as a generic splash guard. I'll admit this is a guess, but it makes sense from a safety perspective I think. The muffler hangers and exhaust on the other side would generally be in the way of splash guard on that side but feel free to fab up what plate fits your fancy.

This is an excerpt from the SKF "Vintage Bearings and Seals" catalogue that includes only the Nissan pages. SKF_VintageBearingsSeals_Nissan.pdf It lists every bearing and seal part numbers on every Nissan made up to 1995. I mean all. engine, axles, and yes, rack and pinions... The whole catalog is here on SKF's website, all 881 pages of it. I thought you'd appreciate an abridged version. Don't ask me how I extracted pages from a locked pdf either... Media Library