zKars

Sorry, didn't make my joke/point clear enough. Those who want their car "just like it came from the factory" would not accept rebuilt Z therapy carbs if they had the choice of real, period correct, unused, brand new SU's. Even if they ran noticibly worse... Just wouldn't be right...

Better running, undoubtly. But they are not "right".....

oh baby... any close up shots of its under belly?

Pretty sure you mean "Chevette" springs. Pretty much the same car, right?

I'm Baaaaaack.. Something came in the mail yesterday. It's a lovely 15x40mm u-joint. I believe we have a staked u-joint replacement option. Way to find a good one CanTechZ! I've confirmed the cap OD is nearly identical to the stockers. I have not yet done the actual replacement on a real live specimen (some one elses Z keeps getting in the way...) , but have started the process. Truth #1. You cannot disassemble the yokes without distroying the u-joint. You can't drive the caps inward far enough to get press the opposite one out far enough to grab it to remove it. Good thing there is enough room to cut right through the yoke legs with a 4 1/2" cut off wheel. Once the yoke center section is gone, just pound the caps through to the middle to remove them. Begin by cleaning the cap area very well (sand blasted in the pictures) then dremeling off the little peened in ears with a small carbide rotary bit. Remove the yoke by cutting through the legs with a cut off wheel. Clean up the staked areas to ensure no protusion into the cap bore. Put new yoke in, pound in new caps from the outside. Put steering shaft back in car. About the only fly in the ointment at this point is how to retain the caps in the ujoint. There is no provision for clips of any sort, and the 40mm length puts the cap pretty flush with the yoke face (I think, have not done this yet), not sunk like the stockers with room for staking -Spot weld cap to yoke body. -Fill whatever small depression exists at the cap with epoxy? -drill and thread a hole in the side of the yoke (x 4) for a small set screw? -put head in sand and assume these will never work their way out in your lifetime? Please add to the list of brilliance I know you are all capable of.

I apologise for my careless use of grade information. The head of the stock bolt has a "9" on it. I believe this is equivalent to ISO grade 10.9 as John mentions. Look for this designation on the bolt head if you go to buy a metric bolt from a supplier. These are important bolts, don't skimp on the quality.

30 mm is the length. 12x1.25 is correct. Grade 9. They are special Nissan bolts with a shoulder that fits the steering knuckle tightly.

Incredible! The pictures do not do them justice. I can imagine the sparkle of the facets in the sunlight. Power them up and bask in their radiance for 15 min. Get that last bit of tanning in before winter sets in.

There is a spring washer and cotter pin in that connection. The end of the J hook should be a nice fit through the holes in the U shaped hole too to remove as much chance for motion. Also evaluate all the ball joints from pedal to that J hook too.

This threaed has some help for you I hope that shows the changes in the slave cylinders. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-s30/32084-rear-wheel-cylinder-question-difference-between-left-right.html You are faced with bending your current lines or creating new ones.

Its the dizzy point gap feeler gauge. I know that's pretty old technology, but come on gang! I knew I was destined to be a Datsun mechanic when I discovered by thumbnail was 0.35 mm thick about a 100 years ago...

Oh my... I might have a new best friend!

If you choose to go with a sealant, be very very careful to use JUST enough to create the gasket, with NO squeeze out. You cannot afford to plug any oil holes....

Brilliant! didn't catch that. Thanks! Only one way to find out if they fit. I have a pair ordered.

Nice bind CanTech! Now who would have thought there would be a u-joint store? Surprised there isn't a smallujoints.com.... Steering Ujoints oh oh... The part description shows both 15x40 AND 16x40.... Wonder which one is right.... I see they stock the infamous ATV700 as well, though the price is NOT the best in town....

No carbide bits in the house. I believe this is an excuse to go buy some however! Yes, schrapnel from the hole may be an issue, must drill "just' through. On the 16mm caps, I tend to agree on the likelyhood of the ends being hardened too, but the 15mm caps looks decidely less "robust". They are quite a different construction type. They almost appear to be a shell wrapped around a core (the actual race), so maybe the ends of the cap are soft. Could be me just being optomistic, but until I lay bit to cap, I'll reserve judgement.

Today I did a bit more hunting for u-joints that might fit the smaller staked style 15mm size. I'm afraid I have bad news. I looked at Motor Master's web site, as they seem to be a huge supplier of ujoints for all ATV-like machinery, and found the specs for the ATV700 MotorMaster I then called them and asked if they had a catalogue with specs for all their u-joints that I could peruse at my leisure to find one that fits, but the nice lady said "tell me the specs and I'll tell you if we have it" so I said, "Same as the ATV700 but with a 15mm bearing OD instead of 16mm". She had a look and announced the ATV700 has the smallest bearing of all the u-joints they have...... I did find a couple of useful things on their site though: This about staked ujoints and how to upgrade them to clip style. http://motormasterpowersports.com/UserFiles/File/What%20is_Staked-In.pdf and one picture I found very interesting. Who says you have to have the zerk in the cross? Hell, just drill a cap!! I think my bits can handle that.. Maybe there's hope of reviving those little u-joints after all if we can't replace 'em!

The pass side guard isthere specifically to shield the gas tank fill tube not as a generic splash guard. I'll admit this is a guess, but it makes sense from a safety perspective I think. The muffler hangers and exhaust on the other side would generally be in the way of splash guard on that side but feel free to fab up what plate fits your fancy.

This is an excerpt from the SKF "Vintage Bearings and Seals" catalogue that includes only the Nissan pages. SKF_VintageBearingsSeals_Nissan.pdf It lists every bearing and seal part numbers on every Nissan made up to 1995. I mean all. engine, axles, and yes, rack and pinions... The whole catalog is here on SKF's website, all 881 pages of it. I thought you'd appreciate an abridged version. Don't ask me how I extracted pages from a locked pdf either... Media Library

Its best to remove the engine and remove all external equipment. Place the engine on an engine stand where you have nice and consistent foot and arm placement to ensure perfectly even torquing on all bolts. Or stop worrying and just go tighten the bolts.... You can do it, I know you can.

Try cleaning then oiling the door side mechanism on the outside that touches the striker, so that it flips from position 1 to 2 more easily. You may also have to re-align the position of the striker as it has likely moved a bit. Wear on the striker is also a possibility. None of the doors I've worked on had that rubber bit and they all close just fine.

I've had two local people with this same leak. Both were fixed by re-torquing the head bolts. If you do need to change the head gasket, then you have nothing to lose by giving this a try. Now just torquing them from their current tight position won't help, unless they are 1) loose, and 2) the threads are in excellent condition, neither of which are very likely. Whatever torque you apply is very unlikely to actually reach the threads and stretch the bolt properly. Take them out one at a time, same pattern as the torque method in the FSM (center to each end), clean the threads thoroughly, oil them, and put it back in, torquing in two steps. There are two bolts, the center ones I believe, that are prone to being quite corroded and may not come loose very easily. Take it easy on those two. Of course they are the ones closest to the leak....

To add to my post about fitment of the ATV700 u-joint. There are at least two quite different styles of steering shaft u-joints. The kind with retaining "C" clips an those that are staked in place. I believe this has been discussed previously. It appears the early cars got the c clip retained ones, then they moved to the staked style. The staked style are easy to get apart. Well, not if you want to save the old u-joint, but you don't right? That's not the issue. The problem is the staked ujoints have a 15mm cap, the C clip style caps are 16mm.. The other dimensions appear the same. The ATV700 u-joints cannot work with those yokes. There is even no provision for the C-clip is you could get them in place. I pulled all my steering shafts and found that most are the staked later style, no surprise there. So back to the search for a u-joint that is the smaller size. Or get the yoke holes bored to 16mm... Cap difference on the left, staked u-joint picture on the right. I also tried to drill through one of the u-joint yokes to get a grease injection port. Don't know what that stuff if made of, but none of my excellent quality drill bits would do more then scatch it..... Somehow a plazma torch didn't seem right.... Anyone have some early steering shaft assemblies they don't want?

I remember a very old thread about some character near Boise that had a rather large stash of Z's and parts, but never did pin him or the exact location down. I think 'mystery solved" is appropriate. He should make himself known and get some action on that pile of apparently un-loved and un-wanted Z-bits. Now on topic, I believe you have a slight mix up on the drive shaft verses the half shafts to each wheel. The issue revolves around the early and late diff location, which would change the required drive shaft length. Half shafts are all the same on all S30's.

I have some spares. Drop me a line to z240@shaw.ca and we'll take it from there.