zKars

Nice job taking those pictures so all the bolt/attachment points between the trans and block in question can't be seen clearly... There are four "big" bolts (two on top, two on the sides, all from trans into engine block), and two little bolts (trans to cover plate, on the bottom) holding it together. Got them all? Other than that, what Madkaw says. Hit it son, just hit it.... Drop the trans jack so the engine jack point and the engine mounts are doing ALL the support. Make sure the trans is free to rise and fall an inch or so as you jack the engine jack up and down a bit. Then reapply the trans jack to JUST take a tiny amount of the weight off the trans. Now you KNOW there is no bending force at the trans/engine point, if you trans jack is at the trans balance point. Now yank that tranny straight back off the engine. You did take the drive shaft off, right? and the shifter is out of the trans hole in the tunnel?

I'll try to describe my experience in using the HTS2000 rods to help this go smoothly for you Think of what you are doing like this. That post, when it broke, left you with two rough surfaces on each side of the part where the post fractured. Your objective is put "glue" on both of those rough surfaces that you are re-joining, then get the "glue" covered faces to stick to each other. You are NOT, trying to surround the two broken parts with a glob of this molten rod to hold them together the way you might wrap a blob of JB weld on there. So rule one. The metal has to get hot enough to melt the rod. The rod must not be melted via flame heat. Heat the metal with a flame, remove the flame, then touch the rod to the metal, which must melt the rod. HTS2000 melts 500F cooler than aluminum itself melts, BUT with such a small part, you have to be very careful with the heat. Apply heat for 10 seconds, try touch the rod to the part. No melt?, apply flame for 20 seconds, try again. Continue adding time until the rod just melts so you can work with it, and you can keep the melt going with on-off flame application. The rod turns shiny when it melts, goes dull when it solidifies. Rule two. to get the metal face to "wet itself" with the molten rod you have to have a perfectly clean surface, which you get with first acetone soak to degrease, and second, with a fine stainless steel brush to clean the metal of oxidation. To get the metal to "wet" into the pores of the aluminum, you have to RUB the molten rod into the surface of the metal. Just putting a blob on there won't work, you have to work it in. The HTS rod instructions speak of using that SS brush to rub it in. This works, but for tiny parts, I'm not sure. You can use the mechanical action of rubbing the rod onto the surface as its melting to work it in too. If you get it right, you will have a shiny surface coated wwith the molten rod, with the same roughness it had to start with, ie you have a pretty thin coat on there. Once you get BOTH side of the break surface coated, you can assemble the parts, clamped together, which won't fit real tight because of the excess now coating the mating surfaces, but get it close. too Much rod on the surfaces makes alignment tough at this point. Then heat it up to the melt point again. When both side melt, the parts will magically mate together perfectly squeezing out any excess. Remove heat immediately. Let it cool naturally, no water bath! Now another approach may be to scrap that little part of the post that broke off and REPLACE it with a molten mass of HTS2000 rod, cool it and then file/dremel/drill it back into shape. You would have to build a thin sheet metal (steel or tin can) dam around the part (HTS won't stick to ferrous metals) to then fill with the molten rod. You would have to begin by creating a wetted surface on the part first as described above, then add enough rod volume to build it up beyond the size of the missing piece. Again, let it cool naturally. I've repaired broken bolt hole tabs on heads and front covers using this techique. ie don't "glue" the busted off part back on, build up material and machine up a new tab and hole. The cold rod material is stronger than the base aluminum. Good luck with your fix attempt. Maybe practice on same scrap Aluminum pieces about the size of the parts your working with to get a feel for heat and wetting. Have fun

Never fear, it can be fixed! where on the support bar did it break? Right at the split where the pin fits, or down lower? Order an HTS 2000 welding/brazing rod (google for a supplier like HTS-2000, Low temperature Brazing Rods for thin alloys, cast aluminum, zinc, magnesium and nonferrous metals. looks like they are in Houston) and try to braze it back on. If you weren't so dang far away.... Hmmmm, listen, just mail me your busted one, I'll mail you a good one, and I'll fix yours and keep it. Have to see a picture first I guess to judge how hard a fix this is. drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and we do it from there.

Two muffler hanging tangs + short shifter mount ears = 77-78 280z One muffler hanging tang + short shifter mount ears (~1" tall) = 79-81 280zx One muffler hanging tang + long shifter mount ears (~2" tall) = 82-83 280zx - the one we all crave.

Somehow the engineer in me feels a bit 'dirty' suggesting this, but a million of us (slight exaggeration) have done the unthinkable and used a more commonly available 1/8" NPT threaded gauge or adapter fitting into the block without leakage and still manage to sleep at night. A purist might run a 1/8 NPT tap into the threads to form them a bit, but what works works. 1/8 BSPT is 28 TPI, which 1/8 NPT is 27 TPI so it seems like you really shouldn't do that but... Adapters are easily available from M-C as suggested. To clear my conscious... http://www.mcmaster.com/#bspt-to-npt-pipe-fitting-adapters/=r2rurr

Any more questions about the effectiveness of proper head work?

If he doesn't get it, phrase it a different way. "If you want us to visit, which usually includes bringing MONEY AND CARE PACKAGES, then choose a different college..."

You know it has snowed too much when you start wanting more just to break a record. I fully expect to have this thread continued by reports of the flooding caused by much the too fast onslaught of spring weather that will now melt that record snowfall. Get your valuables OUT of the basement now, while you have the chance.

Very nice, and a great price. I'm especially impressed with the look of the row of screws/bolts that are holding the half-cap lip down and in-place on the dash. I wonder if that means its not glued down? Are there the same fasteners along the top? Might be an option for someone.

When I saw this thread, I thought MSA was having a sale on springs, not a spring sale. :stupid: Its been a long winter....

oh oh, Zup, from what you describe my filter might be no good to you. It has no metal plate on the end, its open both ends. Also didn't notice a spring in there, I'll look again though.

Wurst comes to worst, I have a like-new used one that I pulled from a dead pump (a perfectly clean, shiny inside and out, nearly new-appearing but dead pump might I add, dang it) that I'll send for the price of a stamp. Sure would like to find new replacement pumps too... There I go off topic again, slightly....

When you drive with and without, you will quickly understand the role it plays. without it the brakes seem to lose all modulation. very on/off.

The reaction disk is only about 1/4" thick, maybe 3/8.

oh, don't tell us how many you have! It will drive the price down on the 25 I plan to sell at $300 each! There goes my early retirement plans...

Nope, wrong again. There is one for $379 on ebay right now... Datsun 240Z 260z 280z Engine Inspection Lamp Light RARE New OEM | eBay At least the shipping cost is realistic...

I believe we may have hit a new high asking price for a NOS inspection light. 240z engine inspection light, $ 350.00 Gotta give him kudo's for trying. The original box is what puts it over the top for me.

Is that just photographic paralax that producing the apparent distortions, or is there a fair amount of "artistic license" in that Z model.....

Wow, that might be the worst wheel damage I've ever seen. I'de suggest a thorough sand blasting, excluding the wood, with something relatively gentle, then fill the cracks with a filler that will take stain. Given the extensive nature of the cracking, you'll end up with some pretty obvious stain differences unless you take to someone who can recreate the grain appearance ontop of a solid paint job that will hide all the repairs. This = big $$. You could always get a better condition Series 1 wheel unless you're super attached to that one. Let me know, I can set you up with on at a reasonable cost.

The camfer on the inside matches the angle on the end of the spindle pin. What's the mystery? Once both sides are together and centered, those rubbers just provide dust and moisture protection. I agree the ID seems to slip right over the spindle pin, but once the outer washer is on there, it will be fine. Now that I think of it, none of the stocker rubber washers I've taken out of there looked like that. They were simply flat on both sides. And hard, and cracked, and darn near useless....

Wow! Even Carl's value is rising! "Mr" Beck indeed!

Relax. Asking prices have nothing to do with the market value. Remember it's the buyers that determine the value, not sellers. The fact that they are asking more than we perceive as the current value is merely a sign that sellers believe the value of these cars is rising or they are delusional. You can ask whatever you want for your car, but in the end, when you need it gone, you will sell it at the actual market value in your area, ie what a buyer is actually willing to give you for it on that fateful day. What is frustrating for those of us trying to get a handle on market value, is that you rarely get to know the actual selling price. We have had a couple of these "crazy asking prices" scenarios in our area recently too. All of them have not sold and neither have had any offers within spitting distance. The sellers are very concerned about this as they firmly believe their asking price is fair based on money and effort spent and quality of the resulting projects. What they fail to understand is that none of that matters a hoot... The other one that comes to mind has been repeatably putting their "car" up for sale for a high asking price, not having it sell, taking the ad down after a few weeks, then repeating the process again at the exact same price. I think we are on the fifth or sixth cycle now over a couple of years. Either they really don't want to sell their car, or they don't get that the market value is below their asking price. Now if we all agree to ask 2 or 3 times what the market says our cars are worth, then the buyers will have no choice but to pay the inflated prices if they want one. Wait, I think you call that "price fixing".... Isn't there jail time involved in that? Guess we're stuck with a buyers market for now....

I for one, want to take this opportunity to personally thank each and everyone of the many individuals who have been brave enough (fine line between bravery and stupidity, ain't it?), to take the giant leap into the abyss of starting and running a Datsun parts or service "business". Given the kinds of criticism that started this thread, and in countless other ones across the spectrum of Datsun space, I'm surprised anyone has bothered. Whether you did it out of the raw will to help, the prayer of maybe adding to your families bottom line to make their lives a little better, or maybe just because you like making stuff, and thought you'd share, or whatever your motivation, I can tell you, my life is better because of your efforts. My car goes faster, looks better, and in a hundred other small ways, I have been able to improve it through access to parts and ideas that are now available. I'm pretty sure that there are plenty of other people here can relate in the same way. Did you get the parts quickly? Were they cheap? Were they perfect? Did they come with a warrantee? Nope. Are you dang glad someone made it available so you Z could be better? Yup! So if you want to scrounging bits and pieces from junk yards, cobble things together from junk found under your work bench, pay random machinest $$$ to make things you just can't find, then just keep up the kind of feedback that started this thread. Another distinction I want to point out. Unless I missed something, the large majority of the folks who have stepped up to do this, are "family" members, ie Datsun owners. Even the big players, like CDM (Les) MSA (Greg) and Futofab (Dave) for example, are run by true long term Datsun nuts. How come I know their first names? Cause they're FAMILY!!!! Are there any "outsiders" running a Datsun parts business because of the lucrative nature of Datsun restoration? NO! Well, maybe Black Dragon... I have no idea who runs that place. Get it????? Support your family. Let me also say, being part of a family is a two way street. All you parts and service suppliers, do everything you can to let us know who you are, what you stand for, what's up in your lives, and keep in constant communication with your customers, er, family members, here and directly. If we know your Grampa's sick and you're taking care of him, we suddenly don't care if our widget is two weeks late. We're more likely to senda card, and maybe chicken soup. Is there some place that sends soup anywhere, like FTD or flowers.com ? Is there one for beer? Now THAT would be useful. Take care of each other, the rest just happens.

That's the way it works here. No classifieds within the forum. Everything is on datsunclassifieds.com. It's owned and run by the admin's here. Its kosher.

The panels are attached from the back, inside the hatch, behind the trim panel that covers the back of the light assemblies. There are about 6-8 8mm nuts to remove from each side, then the lights fall out the back. The black trim is part of the light assembly, you can't pry it off from the outside. removal of the inside trim panel is done by pushing out the center pin of the plastic rivets with an 1/8" punch, then pry out the rivet. Have fun!