zKars

jalex you're going to need the 4-lever control to make the adaption to the stock controls possible. Their linear motion can be connected to the stock control motions. The rotary controls make this more difficult. You might ask if they can supply the rotary fan switch separately to replace your stock fan switch and mount that in the stock location, then use the 3 VA slider controls behind the 3 stock levers. That way it will look and function as stock

I have installed both, and from what I can tell, they use identical internal components, and should perform the same. The slight re-packaging of the mini with the fan housing vertical rather than horizontally appears to the only difference. I prefer the mini myself for fitment. Any size reduction is s good thing, and if you decide to duct the fresh air vent into the fan, its easier with the the mini with the fan inlet directly facing the vent hole in the cowl. Mine kept me cool in Phoenix at 104F with the fan on low or medium and the temp no more than half way to full cold. The low speed is about 20% faster than the stock fan on high. Its actually too fast for most situations in my usual location here in Calgary, I've been meaning to put a pulse-width modulated voltage controller on it to slow it down. You likely won't need to do that.

I've done three Vintage air conversions to Z's in the last few years and will do another on a 510 this winter. All went well and function very well. There is at least one thread on here about those conversions. One person did a very nice job of using the stock control panel levers to actuate the Vintage Air electrical controls hidden behind. This required extensive modifications to the control panel as you can imagine, but its possible. These installations are very very custom in nature, and require about 50-70 hours to complete. You have to fabricate EVERYTHING, from compressor brackets to control panel integration, underdash evap and blower mounting, air plumbing, A/C and heater piping and wiring. The dash has to come out and you go from there.

That is somehow deeply disturbing, but I can't quite decide how....

Sorry got distracted with this holiday thing going on... If you want the bolts email z240@shaw.ca. Merry new year!

202-4206 is the ARP head stud kit you need for the L24/26/28 head. The kits you mention are for the A12 and A14 engines. Look under Nissan on Arp's site to find the 202-4206 kit.

This situation requires more investigation. As blue suggests, go ahead and straighten the bolt if you can. Then remove it. It has a 24mm head and its accessible from inside the hatch. Its located between the strut tower and brace that runs from the strut tower down to the floor. Both are under the vinyl trim. Peel it back slowly to release the glue. I've gotten them out with a short 1/2" 24mm socket and a short extension with a long handled L-bar. Its tight. Impact with a u-joint works too. Since the car was in a passenger side rear impact, this is no doubt what pushed the moustache bar and bent that bolt. What bothers me is a possible stress fracture of that bolt. Its a hardened bolt and not meant to take a bend of that magnitude. That's why you have to remove it and have it carefully inspected. The act of bending it straight again will make it worse. You can get one from Nissan, if not, I have spares. I'de want the wheel alignment checked and see reasonable proof of the frame straightening results. The fact that they missed the bent bolt implies they likely didn't take apart or really didn't check things very carefully. Beware.

dhp, there is no way in Datsun hell that wheel is from any stock S30 on this continent. The wheel that BlackGoldMan shows is the typical 280Z wheel. The welding of the center horn hubby thing to the wheel marks it as a "hybrid" that someone invented. That's no factory weld... The wheel itself looks like a 70's OEM wheel from a "something", maybe even Nissan, but no S30 I've ever seen...

Now that was simply grand! I was bit short on Christmas spirit, until I read that verse, but now that I'm finished, things seem less worse! Merry Chriztmaz!

Picture was taken 12/10/2009 5:22PM however the haircut dates to the 80's... The original name was : nissan-370z-41101035837991600x1060.jpg ?? 1...

240Tom, (or pooched, whatever you perfer...) I believe I may have an early hazard switch in the pile somewhere. Drop me a note z240@shaw.ca and I'll find it tonight to send you a picture. There may be a couple of variations on how long the two sets of wires are that come off the back, send me a picture of yours and I'll compare

Brake fluid absorbing water and causing rust... well, see post #6. Maintenance. Also, I think it absorbs it, its not free to cause rust. And for a long time, there is more brake fluid than water... Check out these cool brake and fuel tools. Specialty Products : S.U.R.&.R. Auto Especially LW700/750/800 Flex Head Ratcheting Line Wrench Sets Gotta get me some of these and stow the vise grips for good.!! Merry Christmas! 3...

Another bizarre idea. How about using brake fluid to lube the threads? Apply NO sealant of any other kind to brake fittings due to the contamination risk issue are mentioned. SS bristle bushes are the best for cleaning as mentioned. Only crazy people like us who take our cars apart every weekend for fun worry about the brake nut threads getting corroded. If you are worried about it, add the step of adding a few drops of brake fluid to each line nut at your regular lube and oil change interval to keep them fresh and accessible in case the urge ever hits you to change rear brake calipers while picnicing. 4...

"Do you research please". I think we got that one checked off....

Mine is getting a new friend! I guess its more of a relative...

Yes, a little realm and google hunting suggests that there appears to be both 200 and 225 mm L20B flywheels. Beware. 7....

Me thinks I may have read that the L20B flywheel has a 200mm friction surface. I'll have to check on that..... 8....

I have just a teeny bit of 510 knowledge now (little knowledge = dangerous), and I can tell you that L16 and L18 cranks/flywheels have 5 bolts and have 200mm diameter clutches. L20B's however have the 6 bolt cranks and you can use Z flywheels all you like on them. It would then be incorrect to state that all L's have the same flywheel requirements. Also don't forget the 280z and ZX 2+2's also had the 240 mm flywheels, not just the ET's.

Please do not take this as raining (or ice storming or snow dumping, depending on where you are this past weekend) on your parade, but these GM HEI ignition modules can be "less good" than the stock ZX ignition modules. Your solution to keep the stock module but to "wire it through" is great to keep the dizzy sealed. Most just remove it entirely and splice into the two remaining wires, which does not solve the hole in the side of the dizzy problem unless you goop it up with somethin' They are definitely "More good" from the point of view of cost and sourcing a new one when the old one fails, no question. However their performance, especially at higher RPM's (above 5K) can be much worse than the stock module. There was a discussion on HybridZ about this, and it was pointed out that there are better high performance versions of this module available (from MSD I believe) that are designed for higher RPM and spark performance. http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/msd-5596/overview/ is the simple one, http://www.summitracing.com/dom/parts/pnx-d2000/overview/ for a real flame thrower! You must also be careful with your coil selection when chosing the HEI ignitor, (ohm internal resistance = 3ohm for most) to provide reasonable life with both the module and coil. Don't forget the simpliest and most modern approach of all, the now common Pertronix upgrade (discussed at length here), that combines the rotation pickup and ignitor in one tiny package inside the dizzy. So if the HEI upgrade makes your car run the way you like in your operating range, then great. Nothing more to do. If it gives you noticable problems at higher RPM's , then consider upgrade to a "better one". You chose the device.

Excellent point Zedy. In fact, other than the dirt intake issue, the fuel bowl has to be at the SAME pressure as the inlet air going into the air horns. This is why that vent hole is right next to the intake, they are DESIGNED to be in the same air space, ie INSIDE the filter. With rad fan and other "wind"while moving, racing past the exposed vent holes, and the pressure drop inside the filters, the vent and intake air will not be at the same pressure. Now maybe, most of the time, the pressure difference is negligable, but not always....

No trick to knowing how much the head is shaved, and hence how much cam spacer is needed. Look in the factory service manual to get the un-touched head thickness, subtract your current head thickness, and viola, but the magical power of substraction, you know how much spacer you need under the cam towers. You can also take some off the top of the front cover if clearances get too tight there. There is no "too thin" until it causes valve to piston touch, or you get too close to the edge of a valve seat, or you break through the casting into water or oil passages. If the engine turns over by hand with no plugs in (no compression) (do not use the starter!) without the slightes hint of binding, then the valves don't touch the pistons. The plasticine trick is great to find out how close they come, then you can decide if its too close or not.

I've purchased plenty of connectors from them in the last few years. My experience is the same, great vendor, and good quality products and very reasonably prices. Their crimper is the best price for a tool of that type that I've seen yet.

Yeah, they have been "adjusted". They are close to stock, but definitely opened up some. The orfice size is critical to having a stream velocity that will reach the windshield but still deliver decent volume. Try tapping them shut a little at a time until they squirt better. I replaced mine with '08 Altima heads that are fitted to the top of the cowl. They have two streams each, and have a decent spray pattern. Stock pump runs them fine. Cost about $8 bucks. I think I have an old set here is you want better stockers. Let me know.

Granny, check out the weber air specific filter that UNI has on the automotive page! Maybe these dont screw with the air patterns into the horn as much Automotive | Uni Filter I hope they mean $32 per pair, but I'm afraid not.

The air horn filter thing has been discussed recently on hybridz. Weber Velocity Stacks Filters or No? - Nissan L6 Forum - HybridZ Given what the advantages of using air horns do and how that works, ie the improvements in air pattern and flow at the lip of the horn, it seem intuitive to me that using those mesh filters that slip over that critical lip shape can do nothing but remove most if not all of the advantaged gained. Let alone the poor filtering they provide. Do they look cool? Yup.