zKars

fuel pressure. Many causes. Line getting plugged, fuel pump failing. is your gas tank vent working? Put a pressure gauge on it after the pump and watch it while driving

Carl I agree this is high given the car. Given the recent sales of some very original rust free lightly modded early Z's here, $10 is more reasonable. The fact that he may have 5-10K$ in that motor means very little in returned value however. There have been a couple of others asking $17-20 that have gone no-where, so I don't expect this one to go at $21K either. Just that the asking prices are definitely rising. This is the land of slim pickin's for really nice low or no rust Z's though....

Nice! I hope he gets his price. Sale prices have been better this year in the west. Nice to see things going the right direction for a change.

The floats are solid foamed EPDM stuff . Nothing to seal. If you really really had to add mass, just screw in a tiny screw or embed a tiny needle or metal shaving. I'm also wondering about all this lovely static fuel height setting and imagining how this relates to the case when fuel is spritzing in the top and flowing out the bottom as the car runs. Here's hoping its kinda similar.

E-mail sent! Fantastic at the price. I suspect you're going to get a few orders....

You have a hole in your air intake hose between the AFM and the throttle body, or a vacumm leak somewhere that is letting air in after the afm that the is not being metered.

I wouldn't expect to find the torque specs on the four mounting bolts for the strap (now the RT mount). They are 10x 1.25 thread, grade 10.9, so 25-30 ft/lb would be lots. Could do a bit of googling and see the general torque maximums for bolts of this type to get an idea. They are also the same size/grade as the bolts that hold most of the rear suspension and cross members in place, so find those specs and see if we are in the ball park.

I'm admiring it for its outstanding comic artistry and its ability to tell a good story. Story being the operative word of course. Every movie or book ever written about any piece of historic reality becomes a characature of the actual events as the author tells the story his way, making whatever point he is trying to make. I doubt the objective was ever to get all the details correct, but to tell the tale of the struggle and personalities of the people involved, and its eventual effect on the Nissan corporations image, and on each one of us. If the hope was that everyone who knew the word "Datsun" but not the background, now has at least the feeling for the long and proud history, and the characters, that have lead us here. This story is not unique, nearly every successful car or business of any kind has an untold number of these "success" stories with their own cast of relative unknowns who become inspiring heroins, but this story for me at least, is another source for inspiration and the feeling that I participate in something worthwhile. Sappy, yes, but that's the way it is.

Simple things first. Often the ign switch is not getting full voltage to the trigger contact on the starter. Re-install it and short out the trigger contact (where black/yellow spade connector goes) to the main fat battery wire terminal on the starter. IF it spins nice and fast and normal, then its the ign switch or the connections between there and the starter. Start by replacing the spade connector on the end of the wire at the starter.

This elder (you calling me old? ) says do what you want. Its your car. If this car is an investment for you, then restore it to perfect stock, put it away and never bring it out into the light again until its value is at the point that you want to cash it in. I hope you live that long. SO, the only value you're hurting is the value of your time not working on and driving/enjoying your car. Now get out there and have fun you youngin' Git!

I'm probably going to make Jerry squirm by even suggesting this, but new speedo cables are availabe in the aftermarket. I just purchased a couple. If yours is broken, you can can at least put the "imposter" on for the time being, purely temporarily, until you convince Diseazd to sell you the real one he just bought, since its the last one on earth apparently....

Yes, my collection is all LHD, so the longest rod won't do for your RHD linkage. Would have to weld two rods together to make it work, seems too much trouble. I can send you some rods just to get the ends if you want, and you can fab up what you need.

Two options. Make new ones using new snazzy ends sourced from midwest control products, DMCBH-5: DMCBH - Midwest Control Products Corp. (make your own 5mm threaded rods, the stockers are 4mm) or I can send you a selection from my collection of originals if you want OEM look and feel. Just let me know what lengths you need.

Sorry, pretty sure the LR160 is the internally regulated model from 78 and onward. The early ones that need an external reg start with LT.. The very very early ones look rounded and puny. Now those are rare.

Look for vacuum leaks next.

Shutting off one carb when you have three gave surprisingly decent power. Lost a bolt through the pushrod once. Knew it was down on power, but it was quite drivable. Now if I had a magic way circulate between running on 1-2, then 2-3 then 3-1 then 3-2 I wonder if you could improve your highway mileage without hurting the engine much. I have even wilder dreams....

Just power it up. Apply +12 to one of the leads and ground the metal of the base. See which way it goes. Choose the other wire to make it go the other way. Here's hoping it actually retracts....

Just tried to buy a pair from Kip. $85 each. Got the message "We're sorry, the item you have requested is not currently in stock" when I attempted to add either strip to the basket. Keith, can you maybe find out what's going on? Or did they all sell out in the last 2 weeks since you posted them as being available?

Where to put the ECU, wiring, fuel pump, and a possible head switch . Not all heads have the upper 10mm intake bolt holes for the FI manifolds. Strangely all heads with FI mount holes do have the carb intake holes too! Not fair! Yeah, possible, but not simple...

Steve is un-aware of what the "Betty" reference is. It's that little voice that tells you "your door is open"etc in a zx. There is a record player (really) in the passenger side strut tower (one of the towers) with pre-recorded sound bites that gets played through the stereo. Something is just not plugged in. Start hunting for loose connections under the dash in the radio area.

And here I was assuming there would be more comments about various ways for Dan to wear a flannel outfit, and fewer about my color selection ribbing. And yes, the "color" is spectacular!!!!

The Brock man on bre2.net has a nice fitted Z cover. BRE: Car Covers Even sells a cover for the cover (ok, its a bag, but really,,,,)

Whoa! That might be the best epoxy primer job I've ever seen! That painter must really care about his work. Now, what color ya gonna paint it? Well, we know where to find you this winter. Happy assembly while wearing nothing by soft flannel and kidd gloves. Enjoy!

When showing off the house, one does not close the drapes.

Market conditions vary all over the continent. Let the googling begin! Round here, $5K gets you a perfect one. $3K gets you a good starting point. Double or triple that for S30 (70-73). Spend time hunting. Look for a shell that's rust free, make the mechanical stuff your project. Good luck.