zKars

All heads swap and fit between all the years, as long as you use the head gasket intended for the block not the head. The concern is chamber and piston volumes as mentioned. The one issue that may prevent you from selecting one head over another is your choice of fuel delivery. All heads are drilled with the 8mm holes to bolt on the SU manifolds, but only the N42, N47, P79and P90 heads have the 10mm threaded holes for the Fuel injection manifolds. These heads also have the notches cut out of intake ports for fuel injection knozzles. So if you have FI, and want to use an E88 head, you're in for some fun!

That pretty much sums up the man and why we love him. Thanks for sharing that.

OMG, yes, that could have an effect. No pressure equalization, pump starts sucking the tank flat..... things go downhill quickly. There is supposed to be a small vent in the gas cap, make sure it's not plugged. Early caps didn't have it, 74 though sure should. If your cap has a flat bar to grab, it should have a vent.

I'de be doing some serious testing to ensure your timing is where you think it is..

Mud flaps.

When you front wheel drops into a washout hole, or over a sharp bump, there is considerable force backwards at this instant as well, directly into the T/C rod. If the bushing on the front of the T/C rod pocket is non-compliant, ie the Delrin ball thing or a solid heim joint on who's ever adjustable T/C rod, then that shock goes directly to the frame and to you as a nasty jolt rather than being partly damped and absorbed by the rubber bushing. I'm pretty sure John has mentioned this in the past. This is one reason I kind of like the forward T/C rods on the ZX and 510, you can put a solid mount on the back (wheel) side, and a soft rubber on the front, which gives you better location under decel (compression) helping steering inputs, but bump compliance when you drop a wheel in a hole and get that rod in tension. Everybody go out and flip your T/C rods to the front! Just takes a little welding and rack link bending for clearance, no big deal. I kept all the several stock rubber steering insulators from all the guys I've done poly replacement jobs for, just waiting for this moment of revelation. If anyone really wants a stock one back, let me know. $5 + a stamp. Maybe I should make it $100 each to make us pay for our foolishness! . Guess I'de better keep one for myself.

A Canadian preaching from a soap box is bound to overlook humorous irony

The trick with this type of diagnosis is to have a way to monitor the system inputs and outputs, and then watch which one goes away at failure time. With a fuel pressure gauge you can see if the fuel supply stops or is too low to support combustion. With a volt meter on the + side of the coil, you can tell if the power supply to it goes away. With a timing light, you can tell if the spark goes away, indicating a distributor or ignition module failure (not firing the coil). Imagine duct taping the fuel pressure gauge, voltmeter and timing light (with flashy end pointing at your face) to your hood then going for drive to see which says DEATH first when the car quits. Of course in your case, it will happen over and over at idle in your drive way, so should be easy to spot. You are quite lucky in that regard. Another key indicator is the speed at which the car goes from "working" to "not working", at least for cars with carbs. Electrical failure happens immediately, while fuel starvation happens slowly. Fuel injection unfortunately also can turn the car off in a heart beat if the injectors stop firing (ECU), but can happen more slowly if the fuel pressure drops off from full to none over a period of several seconds. Common failure components here are ECU, the coil, distributor reluctor pickup windings, Ignition module (under pass dash), power to coil, fuel pump, plugged lines and or filter, or just a loose wire that moves just enough when it or something connected to it gets a bit warm. Happy hunting.

fuel pressure. Many causes. Line getting plugged, fuel pump failing. is your gas tank vent working? Put a pressure gauge on it after the pump and watch it while driving

Carl I agree this is high given the car. Given the recent sales of some very original rust free lightly modded early Z's here, $10 is more reasonable. The fact that he may have 5-10K$ in that motor means very little in returned value however. There have been a couple of others asking $17-20 that have gone no-where, so I don't expect this one to go at $21K either. Just that the asking prices are definitely rising. This is the land of slim pickin's for really nice low or no rust Z's though....

Nice! I hope he gets his price. Sale prices have been better this year in the west. Nice to see things going the right direction for a change.

The floats are solid foamed EPDM stuff . Nothing to seal. If you really really had to add mass, just screw in a tiny screw or embed a tiny needle or metal shaving. I'm also wondering about all this lovely static fuel height setting and imagining how this relates to the case when fuel is spritzing in the top and flowing out the bottom as the car runs. Here's hoping its kinda similar.

E-mail sent! Fantastic at the price. I suspect you're going to get a few orders....

You have a hole in your air intake hose between the AFM and the throttle body, or a vacumm leak somewhere that is letting air in after the afm that the is not being metered.

I wouldn't expect to find the torque specs on the four mounting bolts for the strap (now the RT mount). They are 10x 1.25 thread, grade 10.9, so 25-30 ft/lb would be lots. Could do a bit of googling and see the general torque maximums for bolts of this type to get an idea. They are also the same size/grade as the bolts that hold most of the rear suspension and cross members in place, so find those specs and see if we are in the ball park.

I'm admiring it for its outstanding comic artistry and its ability to tell a good story. Story being the operative word of course. Every movie or book ever written about any piece of historic reality becomes a characature of the actual events as the author tells the story his way, making whatever point he is trying to make. I doubt the objective was ever to get all the details correct, but to tell the tale of the struggle and personalities of the people involved, and its eventual effect on the Nissan corporations image, and on each one of us. If the hope was that everyone who knew the word "Datsun" but not the background, now has at least the feeling for the long and proud history, and the characters, that have lead us here. This story is not unique, nearly every successful car or business of any kind has an untold number of these "success" stories with their own cast of relative unknowns who become inspiring heroins, but this story for me at least, is another source for inspiration and the feeling that I participate in something worthwhile. Sappy, yes, but that's the way it is.

Simple things first. Often the ign switch is not getting full voltage to the trigger contact on the starter. Re-install it and short out the trigger contact (where black/yellow spade connector goes) to the main fat battery wire terminal on the starter. IF it spins nice and fast and normal, then its the ign switch or the connections between there and the starter. Start by replacing the spade connector on the end of the wire at the starter.

This elder (you calling me old? ) says do what you want. Its your car. If this car is an investment for you, then restore it to perfect stock, put it away and never bring it out into the light again until its value is at the point that you want to cash it in. I hope you live that long. SO, the only value you're hurting is the value of your time not working on and driving/enjoying your car. Now get out there and have fun you youngin' Git!

I'm probably going to make Jerry squirm by even suggesting this, but new speedo cables are availabe in the aftermarket. I just purchased a couple. If yours is broken, you can can at least put the "imposter" on for the time being, purely temporarily, until you convince Diseazd to sell you the real one he just bought, since its the last one on earth apparently....

Yes, my collection is all LHD, so the longest rod won't do for your RHD linkage. Would have to weld two rods together to make it work, seems too much trouble. I can send you some rods just to get the ends if you want, and you can fab up what you need.

Two options. Make new ones using new snazzy ends sourced from midwest control products, DMCBH-5: DMCBH - Midwest Control Products Corp. (make your own 5mm threaded rods, the stockers are 4mm) or I can send you a selection from my collection of originals if you want OEM look and feel. Just let me know what lengths you need.

Sorry, pretty sure the LR160 is the internally regulated model from 78 and onward. The early ones that need an external reg start with LT.. The very very early ones look rounded and puny. Now those are rare.

Look for vacuum leaks next.

Shutting off one carb when you have three gave surprisingly decent power. Lost a bolt through the pushrod once. Knew it was down on power, but it was quite drivable. Now if I had a magic way circulate between running on 1-2, then 2-3 then 3-1 then 3-2 I wonder if you could improve your highway mileage without hurting the engine much. I have even wilder dreams....

Just power it up. Apply +12 to one of the leads and ground the metal of the base. See which way it goes. Choose the other wire to make it go the other way. Here's hoping it actually retracts....