zKars

I think the ebay ad is for just one wheel. $2500.... Gulp.....

The brass filler ring tlorber used is not a requirement. Good idea though, but not critical. The most crucial part is getting the correct spacing of the end of the brake actuator rod to the piston face in new master. The hybridz thread A One Inch Diameter Brake Master Cylinder for the S30 Z Cars - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis - HybridZ details this process well. I do what to thank tlorber for his thread, as he pointed out a critical detail that I need badly on my car, ie the ability to reverse the bleeders to the other side of the WW master! My custom air box fitment is just a tad snug with the bleeders on the engine side. Thanks again!

Did you actually get a new (to you...) 15/16" master from Rock auto or is it just ordered? There have been plenty of discussions about them be NLA from most common vendors for some time. Interesting to find out if Rocky Horror Auto Show has some again. The wilwood 1" master (PN 260-8794 ) has become a accepted replacement since. There is a nice thread on Hybrid about installation methods and requirements. Best thing about them is that they are NEW, not some rebuilt god knows how many times POS .....

Si senior! Best Z trip ever. Little warm, but we survived. Looking foward to a repeat in 2014 to SD.

Hey! That georgeous orange 240 looks very familiar! Of all the shots to choose.... Cool!

And again my judgement of how much rust there can be in Datsun is totally under estimated. Dang. Nice hole... Yes, be VERY careful with tire clearance. Lowering the battery has been discussed here, hunt that thread down.

Grind until you have either clean metal or no metal. If you get the rust gone, and still have enough metal to retain strength in that area (a bit of a judgement call), then you don't have to replace it. If what's left is not there, or paper thin, then cut back until you get to "good" metal (again, judgement call.)and weld in new. Your battery tray area looks better than most. Bet you can grind those spot weld/overlap areas to clean steel and not have to replace much. Maybe a hole or two here and there. Happy Grinding!

Fuses blow due to a current load in excess of the fuse rating. This is a problem with a something on the circuit drawing more current than it should, like a short circuit to ground or a series of corroded connections. No fuse upgrade will solve it, you have to find the cause of the problem. The fuse is just a safety valve. This is a very common fuse to get overheated. Start by thoroughly cleaning the fuse connection holders, then work backwards cleaning all bulb sockets on all lights that this fuse powers, and their associated connections. Bad connections = resistance = heat generation. Happy scrubbing.

You're not having a very good month are you? Sometimes the Z gods test us more than seems fair. Chin up! The coolant certainly passed through the front cover, so it appears likely that the gasket between the cover and the block is leaking or the front cover is cracked. You did put new front cover gaskets on after the change, didn't you ? The quantity (all) of coolant in the oil pan sure points to it coming from the front cover straight down and into the oilpan. Head gasket leaks tend to be more subtle. Coolant gets burned off or mixes with the oil. To test this, remove the thermostat, put the housing back on, with the oil pan empty, plug out, I'de just fill the rad, and wait and see how long it takes coolant to leak out into the oil pan. If you don't get much of anything in 10 minutes, take the fan belt off and spin the water pump by hand (same direction as engine rotation of course) and see if that speeds up the coolant leak. Take the valve cover off and look down the chain way with a strong light and try to see where coolant is coming from as you spin the water pump. Hint: Use an electric drill with the fan belt just on the water pump pulley and over the drill chuck to spin it faster. In any event, I think you're pulling that front cover to have a look at what is going on. Water doesn't make a very good lubricant either, hope you didn't run it much..... Jim

And those pictures are not taken in Burnaby! I'm really getting suspicious now.... :cheeky:

Definitely a case of "He makes it look easy" which means its actually very hard to do well, and consistently. You or I could make one air horn, given the right tools, in a day of playing around. But it would take 30 years practice to be able to make 6 the same...

Lower rad hose leaks would blow back to that aream or a pin hole would spray a long way. Someone here posted about tiny holes in the TIG's of those alumimum rads. Get the car hot and get in there with some clean sheets of paper and see if you can catch a tiny spray from somewhere.

Excellent! Sorry to Alberta, as I think I just sent "spring" to Toronto, since snow is predicted here this weekend and its in the 20's © there!

The bidding is gettin' up there.... $351 and climbing.. 2.5 days to go....

Rare isn't the correct term. Low volume yes. That is an early 70-72 variety and looks to be pretty near perfect. If you want a new one, actually a Stainless steel reproduction, search for "Stainless Steel bumpers" or "Harrington group" here to find the related theads, or search for "harrington group bumpers" on ebay to find them there. Outstanding quality and service in my experience. Worth every penny in the long run.

Greg: Assuming we are talking about the black tar and aluminum skin stuff, sorry the stuff has to be bonded to most of the metal panel to do its job. Thus removing it will be not so easy. I've used lots of this stuff, and any place where it gets hot, well, it is ON there. Maybe stick (ha) with thick sound absorbing pads for now. At least buy the cheapest stuff you can so that removing later it won't be too painfull. b-quiet is my favorite.

Is there any chance you mixed up the front and back Tokico springs during the last mod? This is the most common cause for this hi front low back problem. The 280 has the taller strut insulators on the rear when stock, the front has the same shorter height ones on the front as the 240z. Any chance the tall ones ended up on the front some how? THe loss of the bumper weight would not be this dramatic.

Ksechler, are the wheels turned slightly right? Can't really tell. Looks like you could lose a little caster on the front there if they are straight. Might save a bit of rubbing on turns. Maybe the T/C bushings are shot? I also believe the 16" tire options outnumber the 15"s in most categories. Just do a quick list of 225/50-15 and 225/50-16 on TireRack if you need proof. With every possible kind of tire checked, in 15" there are 12 results, but with 16", there are 65 results... At 205/50 15 vs 16, 23 at 15", 43 at 16" And 225/50-16 Yoko S-drives on 16x8 +3 VTO's do NOT fit with a stock front valance rub-on-turns wise... But 215/40-16's do. Lots of choices in sizes around there to pick from to... Not a prayer in 15"

The word is "Patina".....

I think I can help. I have some spares. catch me at z240@shaw.ca all the way over here in Calgary.

Dang 260's and their 'safety' crap. There is an interlock unit that has input from the seats, seat belts, ignition, voltage regulator, an Inhibitor switch (on trans or in shifter console??) etc... all of it aimed at preventing connection to the starter terminal. Tried sitting in drivers seat with seat belts on? FSM with wiring diagram is here. Good luck! XenonS30 Look in the BE Body Electrical section. End of that chapter has the interlock diagrams.

Yup, I have a fresh shell just in that has good T-rod pockets. Love to chop them out for ya. Might be a few days. $40 + shipping?

Well it is a K-car... But the rear end isn't wide enough to be Kardashian..

Tease!!! That's not fair. Not all of us can go for a Z drive right now.....

That's an A/C evaporator core you seeing in there from the dealer installed A/C unit from the time. Heater core is in where granny says it is. No wonder you're concerned about the foot well space. Those ancient things are massive. You have to retain at the very least some warm fan powered air on the defrost to make driving in cool wet weather safe. Whether you want to retain the A/C part, get it working is totally up to you. They are separate, I'm sure you can remove the A/C box and leave the fan and heater stuff alone.