zKars

Yes the early ones had that one-screw switch body which is different from the later ones. Buying the entirely new assembly as found by ZCurves will fix the problem. Electrically they are the same. It will mean a new key for you. I think Captain Obvious has a thread recently about taking the switch apart and cleaning the contacts. I have an old 1-screw switch in my collection (I check it) if worst comes to worst. Let me know z240@shaw.ca if you need it.

speedo yes for sure, only thing about the tach, if its a three wire, (12v , ground and a single connector from coil -) pretty sure all 260's had switched by then. The connector may differ, but easy to switch the harness from one to the other. Maybe one factor not to like is the lettering font on 77 gauges is different, so they won't match exactly. Both have 280 style dashes so the mounting is identical.

You're in luck, Canuck! I saved a couple from a recent demo, just have to find 'em! Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll stick 'em in an envelope.

Les at classic dastun is the official supplier of the 'right' blue for the block and the 'right' grey for the tail lit finisher/grill/ hub caps. Classic Datsun Motorsports. Suitable 'close enough' substitutes have been discussed here several times. Search for 'duplicolor' along with hub caps or tail light panel or finisher.

Ive done this mod, and if I'm assuming you mean the "chop the lower block bracket to 1.7inch long" mod, the only thing I did poorly the first time was not checking that the cut off face was exactly 90deg to both the mounting face AND the thru hole. Left the alternator a bit crooked. Stuck it on my mill to face it flat and square, but a file and a square does the same thing. Then there was the hunt for the just-right belt, and a bit of 'adjustment' of the upper bracket, but I'm totally happy with the prospect of having an alt that I can replace anywhere anytime if need be.

Now I feel really silly.:paranoid: Talk about assuming something and making the facts fit.. Its your dizzy jamming for sure.... Another lesson in humility...

Makes sense that the tabs have been off for some time. I think its a red herring. If the oil pump failed in the way I'm thinking, ie stuck relief valve, the pressure would spike HIGH, never triggering your alarm. The thing is I can't get past these two points. First the shaft engagement point of the crank drive gear is pretty substantial. And its between the dizzy and oil pump. How does a shaft jammed at the top, with the crank still turning, not destroy/bend/twist the shaft, gear or dizzy? Nothing appears wrong with the dizzy other than the tabs are gone. If those tabs got jammed in somewhere I'de expect some very noticable damage on something in the dizzy. And second, if the oil pump is "fine" and is free to turn, and you lock its drive spindle, is the momentum of the pump and oil enough to twist and shear the drive tab? Doesn't feel right. If the pump is free to spin, then nothing the crank or shaft can do other than stopping dead at 8K RPM would cause that type of damage. I think. And you say the car stalled in the pits. What caused that if the shaft can still turn the dizzy and its still in time (advance tabs being there or not at idle wouldn't matter) unless the gear on the spindle spun on the shaft during/just before the tang twisted off? This is easy to check. Compare the gear position on the busted one to a new one. If it IS spun, it doesn't prove which end of the shaft was "locked" at the point, but without any dizzy damage, and with the force required to cause that twist and shear, I'm strongly suspecting the oil pump end is the culprit. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

I'm sitting here trying to imagine the scenario that caused this failure. I just can't believe BOTH advance tabs would shear off at the same time due to a manufacturing defect. One, sure. It just feels like a an instantaneous high-G event that gave the advance plate a real snap/whack to shear them both off. And because the shaft is geared and driven by the crank, I don't believe that a dizzy jamming would cause the oil pump drive tang to shear. That jam cannot get to the oil pump drive end without getting past the engagment with the crankshaft worm gear. I've experienced an oil pump failure that sheared that drive shaft tang off, where its internal pressure relief valve failed allowing the pressure to get too high. What gave was the drive shaft tang. Now if that's what happened to you, though just for an instant, that very violent event may also have resulted in enough snap torque to shear the dizzy tabs. Just don't want this happen to you again with a new dizzy. I'm really feeling like its the oil pump that caused the shaft tab to break off. Look at the amount of twist on that tang! No way a dizzy jam could have caused it without much more internal damage to the dizzy itself and at LEAST the gear on the shaft getting spun. Just think this through and maybe replace the oil pump or service the relief valve and look for damage from something getting momentarily stuck in there.

Careful. I think someone else was wondering about that KYB part in an earlier thread. I think KYB SM5064 is only the front strut bearing, not insulators. Google that part number, you'll see other examples. The only true "replacement" strut insulators are the polyurethane one's MSA sells that have some level of caster camber adjustment, these I believe Motorsport! Street Camber Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts... $129 a pair.

Can't think of any 8mm bolts that are not 1.25 thread an a Z. Those fender bolts are 1.25 for sure.

My favorite line from the instructions: "The shoulder belt should never be worn without the lap belt" Now just how in the heck could you even attempt to do that with this type of design? Crazy translation or generic seat belt caution text copied from another source?

Koalia: I had to cut a wide slot in a 10mm 3/8" drive short socket that would fit over the wings of that wingnut to get enough leverage to break it free. I think I had to use a 3/8-1/4 adapter then a 1/4 drive handle to get in there. Big hands and Z dash are not the best of friends...

First clue. "blue tape"

The tie rod adjusting threads are 14 x 1.5 LH and RH (threads, not side of the car) . Nuts to fit from class 5 up should be fine. Hope you don't mean the castle nut that locks the tie rod end end to the steering knuckle, but I think they are 14 x 1.5 as well.

No but it has a hell of a splash shield....

This is where we are "headed".... Courtesy: http://www.nydailynews.com/news/national/ipad-toilet-kids-article-1.1237408

Love these guys too for metric, including JIS sized nuts and bolts. https://www.belmetric.com

Dang screw steeling aliens. They've been to my shop to.... I have used #6 x 1 inch wood screws as replacements. They are virtually the same diameter as the stock screws and will not blow out the fragile posts when inserted. Some light oil on them will help as well. Tighten them very evenly and slowly and no more than necessary.

There is a thread on here about the honda wiper motor upgrade that goes into great depth with wiring diagrams. Should be something useful there for you. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread28989.html might be it

Hang that 50 in front of an stock efi manifold at the throttle body, facing forward. No one's done that yet! (have they?). Would that dizzy in the way? Heck, would the rad be in the way!! Gotta mock that up. Big on cool factor, not sure you'll make any real difference performance wise like the opinions above. Do it anyway!

The PPG part number is FW 241. 70-78 240-260-280Z Weather strip from Precision is WCR 241 (no co-incidence) Nissan Weather strip PN 72610 N3700 Now maybe he can find it...

Snowy crisp morning, -23 C. Merry Christmas everyone!

Look closely at the outline shape.... Brilliant Mike! Kudo's!!!

Just when you thought you'de seen everything, this comes along... Craziest thing I've ever seen. It must be compensation for uneven spring rates, load, or a very specific racing application. Or the PO was crazy.... I'de remove the extra spring perch and return to normal geometry.

If you are talking about the window channel that is part of the door, ie the three sided SS frame that the glass fits into when up, its held on with several bolts. You can see several on the door at the latch edge and a couple in front, but there are at least three more you need to access with the interior door trim panel removed. Why do you want to remove it? There is no way the glass can seal against the body without it.