zKars

I'm sitting here trying to imagine the scenario that caused this failure. I just can't believe BOTH advance tabs would shear off at the same time due to a manufacturing defect. One, sure. It just feels like a an instantaneous high-G event that gave the advance plate a real snap/whack to shear them both off. And because the shaft is geared and driven by the crank, I don't believe that a dizzy jamming would cause the oil pump drive tang to shear. That jam cannot get to the oil pump drive end without getting past the engagment with the crankshaft worm gear. I've experienced an oil pump failure that sheared that drive shaft tang off, where its internal pressure relief valve failed allowing the pressure to get too high. What gave was the drive shaft tang. Now if that's what happened to you, though just for an instant, that very violent event may also have resulted in enough snap torque to shear the dizzy tabs. Just don't want this happen to you again with a new dizzy. I'm really feeling like its the oil pump that caused the shaft tab to break off. Look at the amount of twist on that tang! No way a dizzy jam could have caused it without much more internal damage to the dizzy itself and at LEAST the gear on the shaft getting spun. Just think this through and maybe replace the oil pump or service the relief valve and look for damage from something getting momentarily stuck in there.

Careful. I think someone else was wondering about that KYB part in an earlier thread. I think KYB SM5064 is only the front strut bearing, not insulators. Google that part number, you'll see other examples. The only true "replacement" strut insulators are the polyurethane one's MSA sells that have some level of caster camber adjustment, these I believe Motorsport! Street Camber Kit, Front, 70-78 240Z-260Z-280Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts... $129 a pair.

I see 99% of the problems are directly caused by incredibly bad drivers. Apparently no one cares about much there. Pity.

Can't think of any 8mm bolts that are not 1.25 thread an a Z. Those fender bolts are 1.25 for sure.

My favorite line from the instructions: "The shoulder belt should never be worn without the lap belt" Now just how in the heck could you even attempt to do that with this type of design? Crazy translation or generic seat belt caution text copied from another source?

Koalia: I had to cut a wide slot in a 10mm 3/8" drive short socket that would fit over the wings of that wingnut to get enough leverage to break it free. I think I had to use a 3/8-1/4 adapter then a 1/4 drive handle to get in there. Big hands and Z dash are not the best of friends...

First clue. "blue tape"

The tie rod adjusting threads are 14 x 1.5 LH and RH (threads, not side of the car) . Nuts to fit from class 5 up should be fine. Hope you don't mean the castle nut that locks the tie rod end end to the steering knuckle, but I think they are 14 x 1.5 as well.

No but it has a hell of a splash shield....

This is where we are "headed".... Courtesy: http://www.nydailynews.com/news/national/ipad-toilet-kids-article-1.1237408

Love these guys too for metric, including JIS sized nuts and bolts. https://www.belmetric.com

Dang screw steeling aliens. They've been to my shop to.... I have used #6 x 1 inch wood screws as replacements. They are virtually the same diameter as the stock screws and will not blow out the fragile posts when inserted. Some light oil on them will help as well. Tighten them very evenly and slowly and no more than necessary.

There is a thread on here about the honda wiper motor upgrade that goes into great depth with wiring diagrams. Should be something useful there for you. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread28989.html might be it

Hang that 50 in front of an stock efi manifold at the throttle body, facing forward. No one's done that yet! (have they?). Would that dizzy in the way? Heck, would the rad be in the way!! Gotta mock that up. Big on cool factor, not sure you'll make any real difference performance wise like the opinions above. Do it anyway!

The PPG part number is FW 241. 70-78 240-260-280Z Weather strip from Precision is WCR 241 (no co-incidence) Nissan Weather strip PN 72610 N3700 Now maybe he can find it...

Snowy crisp morning, -23 C. Merry Christmas everyone!

Look closely at the outline shape.... Brilliant Mike! Kudo's!!!

Just when you thought you'de seen everything, this comes along... Craziest thing I've ever seen. It must be compensation for uneven spring rates, load, or a very specific racing application. Or the PO was crazy.... I'de remove the extra spring perch and return to normal geometry.

If you are talking about the window channel that is part of the door, ie the three sided SS frame that the glass fits into when up, its held on with several bolts. You can see several on the door at the latch edge and a couple in front, but there are at least three more you need to access with the interior door trim panel removed. Why do you want to remove it? There is no way the glass can seal against the body without it.

Zed head, thanks a bunch. Okay, "rarely" have I seen that measurement. I have since tested two clutch sets. One my just replaced 240mm setup with a performance aftermarket clutch that used a tall collar, and a series 1 "A" trans with a nice tall clutch plate that had a short collar. The short and sweet is that both added up to 91-92 mm total height as you measured it, with release bearing on the collar. Btw the release bearing added about 3mm to the collar height. Notice I didn't mention the collar length in both cases. No more spreading that stuff. From now on the manta is "Total is 92 mm. Measure your clutch and then pick the collar you need to get to 92mm."

Someday we'll take all the mystery out of this never ending topic of "which collar to use with my clutch". The way to tell what collar to use with any clutch would be really very simple, IF one knew the expected total height of the clutch + collar, which is NEVER mentioned in any thread. It is a constant for any tranny that bolts on to an L24/6/8 I'de believe. As long as your flywheel is the "Standard" thickness then you measure your installed height from flywheel face to the clutch fingers where the throwout bearing touches them, subtract that from the "total required height" (the big mystery) and get the exact length of collar you need to have (+/- a little bit). We need someone, anyone, everyone, who is at the point of assembling the clutch and trans, and is totally confident that he has a matched set of collar/clutch, to measure both for us and report the total. For the collar, measure from the front face of the throwout bearing to the back of the two tabs the fork touches. Like in this picture, ie the shorter measurement. Or put your clutch cover on the floor and put the collar w/throwout mounted on the fingers and measure it from the floor to the top of the fork pads on the collar. Someone did it here, and reported 91 or 92 mm total height. ~3.60 inches. No clue if this is right or not. http://zclub.net/forum/s30-240z-260z-280z-drivetrain/19228-clutch-question-collar-length-again-2.html Lets all do it and report your measurements. We'll take the average and call it the "L_Total_Clutch_Height" universal constant and we can relax about this finally!! I'm taking pictures of what I mean tonight with some clutch parts I have laying around that I know work to get this started.

Well, the futofab BF sale finally made pick a 16 wheel. Classic 8's or Panasports? No brainer, Classic 8's it is. Thanks Dave for the sale! Santa comes early this year.

The chances of the key code tag still being on the glove box door is slim. The code is also stamped into the passenger door lock cylinder if its still the original. Bit tougher to get to. Only very few Nissan dealers around here has the machine to use that code to make keys though.

So after digging through the shifters trying to find a suitable candidate, and comparing a bit more closely, it seems there are no less than three variations on the ones with a pronounced "S" curve. I'm pretty sure the group of three match the front one in the center picture above. I have NO idea what those extra longs are for or from.... Anyone need then for joke? I have a Hurst shifter handle that would look right on home on one of them!!

Nice Z to start your project with. You seem to have your priorities pretty straight, but your 6 month time frame is optimistic. The single most common problem with resto's is them taking longer than the time it takes to loose interest in them. Its far better to do it in stages with periods of driving time to keep your interest going. One final thing. There is no such thing as a rust free datsun. You just haven't found it yet. Get the floors and engine bay/wheel wheels stripped inside and out and have a good look. I see there are plugs all over the place in the door frames that indicate it had a "Zeibart" or similiar rust proofing treatment at one time or another, so that MAY have helped some, but don't be surprised about what you find. Its just part of the datsun resto game. You are not alone. Your passenger door is from a 77-78 280, which is why it has the "adapted" latch system. Getting rid of it and go back to a 240 door is definitely a good idea. Keep it real, don't rush, and drive as much as you can. Good luck!