zKars

Thanks guys, good advice as always. I'm going with the clean up, locktite sealer and just drive it in. What can go wrong?

Here is a question about an item not many will have experience with. Experienced engine builders please chime in! At the back of the block, the end of the drilled oil gallery has a plug inserted. Usually. The block I'm assembly at the moment came from the machine shop stripped, even this plug is removed. Good news, they supplied the replacement. Its a small round 3/8" dia. plug about 1/2 in long, with a 45 deg'ish chamfer on the end, over the last 1/8" or so. Clearly it just goes back in the hole. My question relates to how best to install that plug to ensure a decent seal. I'm pretty sure the chamfered end goes in first, but, then what? I know, I know, just pound it in until it stops moving and stop worrying. That's not me... The only reference I've found to it is in the "how to modify your Z engine" book, where they recommend tapping that bore and placing a pipe plug in there. That's easy enough to do, but I see no issue with just using the stock plug on this engine. It ain't mine! Other than cleanliness of hole and plug and all that, is there a proceedure any of you have used with known success to ensure this plug is oil tight? Its just never been something I've had to deal with in the past. It dumps right into the flywheel/clutch area so I'm gun shy. Thanks! Jim

Oliver at www.zspecialties.com has lots of parts cars. give him a call. He 's in Everett.

Gotta love the onion. Enough to make you cry....

Dude, you are totally sunk. She is setting you up for the big "Now that you have 4 of "those", I guess I am entitled to 4 of these!!" She will be holding up a jewerly, clothing or home improvement catalog. Run while you can

As Arne said, it depends on the fuel pump pressure. You'll have to measure the pressure before deciding if that "piece of magic" or something like it needs to stay. Those carbs can handle 4-5 psi max. depends on the condition of the needle and seats. BTW, the "filter-o-Reg" does not have a good rep....

Steve I'm pretty sure the overall fit is the same, other than the arm rest holes. Depending on the 280 year, the style of clips that attach it to the door changed to the round plastic ones from the steel ones we all hate. Its easy to tell, the later ones have holes that look like two circles, one large one small right next to each other, joined by a slot. Those plastic clips are easier to find too. I think you have a good idea there.

Welcome to our little band of z-crazies! As to your possible purchase, so much depends on rust, especially the hiding kind. there are plenty of posts here that go into details about where to look. body work is always the most expensive and time consuming to deal with. buy the best body you can afford. Have a local expert from a z club near you have a look to help evaluate it if thats practical. I know of a couple of nice 240s for sale near here in Western Canada. where are you located?

pretty complete description, but no need to remove the headlight buckets, they can come with the fender if you remove the valance corners. Don't forget the two bolts under the cowl and the one you see when you open the door. oh, the the two bolts that are hiding in behind the hood hinges by the rad support witht the hood up. And yes to lots of rust eater first! (no WD40!)

and before i get in trouble, it is worth something indeed. Just couldn't resist! I am really interested, let me know if it is for sale and your price. Thanks!

Not worth much, everyone has one. I'll take it off your hands, I could use a spare, if you really have no use for it....

First rule. You cannot build it too big. You can build it too high however (waste of heat and space) so consider a second story, at least internally have an enclosed "upstairs". Oh, and a bathroom.... And a fridge.. And microwave. And a couch. Oh hell, just move out there. As soon as the last kid moves out, I'm moving into my garage and gutting the house to make it the "shop". Haven't shared that little idea with the boss yet....

Nothing is impossible, just different levels of challenge. There is a 6 or 8mm threaded hole in the center of the cap for the "special tool" to thread into. Now let your imagination help you design a tool that can apply leverage to pull the cap straight out. Maybe even a simple hammer. Piece of 6mm threaded rod, washwr, nut, well you get the idea. Good luck!

I'de take two pair without question. Should be a winner.

The best thing to do is get the fatory service manual (xenons130.com) and do ALL of the EFI system checks to track down the culprit methodically. Clean every electrical connection you can find as well to all the sensors and input, start with the head temp sensor.

First welcome to our little slice of Z Heaven and congrats on your '78. If you promise to post "want to buy" stuff in the Classified section (look at the top menu bar for the word 'Classifieds') in the "Want to buy" section, and not arbitrarily add to posts that are not related to your needs, then I'll gladly send you the shifter parts that you need. I'm pretty close to Wisconson if you don't mind dealing with crazy Canadians!! Please contact me at z240@shaw.ca and we'll take it from there. Jim

I have at least one set in good shape. Drop me a line to z240shaw.ca or PM here.

You just need to remove your existing monster mounting brackets and get a pair of the early bumper brackets. The holes are there to mount them on the inside of the rad area just under the hinges. Just need four 10mm x 1.25 35mm bolts and washers. See if Norm at zeddsaver.com has a pair, he's real close. If not, put a Want to Buy ad up here.

Wonder if i can ask a favor. We have a club member here in Calgary seriously considering buying this Z, http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/2243827103.html is there anyone close enough to it to maybe have a look see and do the usual due dilligence to check it out? Any one know this car from past experience? if you do get the urge to go check it out, even for your own consideration, please let me know what you think at z240@shaw.ca Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Try Roger at zBarn.com. Call him, usually the fastest.

I was in Canadian Tire last week and happened to pass a shelf packed of all sorts of different car covers. There were several different brands and sizes. I thought about replacing mine, my baby has to live outside under its blanket in the Canadian winter, and the cover I have now its getting a bit old and has a couple of rips, so I as stood there looking them over, I started reading the descriptions looking for one that might fit. As I read box after box after box, I started to notice a pattern. Almost everyone, except a couple at the very end had, in big bold letters, the phase, "for indoor use only" Now, am I missing something or is this just crazy? Do you really "need" a cover if your dang car is in the garage? This is Canada, land of snow and ice and igloos and 9 months of winter and stuff! The only "outdoor" rated one that had was big enough for Ford F350 crew, I could have driven over it and zipped it up around the z like a sleeping bag. hey! Not a bad idea!

Careful gang, that ad states its a 10mm tool and makes reference to a 3/8 ratchet/breaker bar, which is close to 10mm. Our drain plug recesses are roughly 1/2" square drive, I'm not sure this is the right tool. if anyone is thinking of buying it. Look for a 13mm drive tool.

Technically there is no need to remove the driveshaft at all if you remove the engine and trans as a unit. Drain the trans first and just take the engine/trans out. Drive shaft just slips out. Done it several times including putting it back by lining it up on the way back in. Call me lazy.

The size of the holes in washers will tell you which is top and bottom. The pin they mount over is fatter near the body than it's threaded end.

IIRC drivetrain.com has been mentioned here several times before. Nissan is always another source. Just did a quick check, they do list parts for the 4 and 5 speeds. Good place to start anyway. Search for FS5W71A or F4W71B. With your VIN you have the F4W71B stock, the FS5W71A is the 77-78 280z and 79-83 280zx 5 speeds with various gear sets.