zKars

and before i get in trouble, it is worth something indeed. Just couldn't resist! I am really interested, let me know if it is for sale and your price. Thanks!

Not worth much, everyone has one. I'll take it off your hands, I could use a spare, if you really have no use for it....

First rule. You cannot build it too big. You can build it too high however (waste of heat and space) so consider a second story, at least internally have an enclosed "upstairs". Oh, and a bathroom.... And a fridge.. And microwave. And a couch. Oh hell, just move out there. As soon as the last kid moves out, I'm moving into my garage and gutting the house to make it the "shop". Haven't shared that little idea with the boss yet....

Nothing is impossible, just different levels of challenge. There is a 6 or 8mm threaded hole in the center of the cap for the "special tool" to thread into. Now let your imagination help you design a tool that can apply leverage to pull the cap straight out. Maybe even a simple hammer. Piece of 6mm threaded rod, washwr, nut, well you get the idea. Good luck!

I'de take two pair without question. Should be a winner.

The best thing to do is get the fatory service manual (xenons130.com) and do ALL of the EFI system checks to track down the culprit methodically. Clean every electrical connection you can find as well to all the sensors and input, start with the head temp sensor.

First welcome to our little slice of Z Heaven and congrats on your '78. If you promise to post "want to buy" stuff in the Classified section (look at the top menu bar for the word 'Classifieds') in the "Want to buy" section, and not arbitrarily add to posts that are not related to your needs, then I'll gladly send you the shifter parts that you need. I'm pretty close to Wisconson if you don't mind dealing with crazy Canadians!! Please contact me at z240@shaw.ca and we'll take it from there. Jim

I have at least one set in good shape. Drop me a line to z240shaw.ca or PM here.

You just need to remove your existing monster mounting brackets and get a pair of the early bumper brackets. The holes are there to mount them on the inside of the rad area just under the hinges. Just need four 10mm x 1.25 35mm bolts and washers. See if Norm at zeddsaver.com has a pair, he's real close. If not, put a Want to Buy ad up here.

Wonder if i can ask a favor. We have a club member here in Calgary seriously considering buying this Z, http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/2243827103.html is there anyone close enough to it to maybe have a look see and do the usual due dilligence to check it out? Any one know this car from past experience? if you do get the urge to go check it out, even for your own consideration, please let me know what you think at z240@shaw.ca Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Try Roger at zBarn.com. Call him, usually the fastest.

I was in Canadian Tire last week and happened to pass a shelf packed of all sorts of different car covers. There were several different brands and sizes. I thought about replacing mine, my baby has to live outside under its blanket in the Canadian winter, and the cover I have now its getting a bit old and has a couple of rips, so I as stood there looking them over, I started reading the descriptions looking for one that might fit. As I read box after box after box, I started to notice a pattern. Almost everyone, except a couple at the very end had, in big bold letters, the phase, "for indoor use only" Now, am I missing something or is this just crazy? Do you really "need" a cover if your dang car is in the garage? This is Canada, land of snow and ice and igloos and 9 months of winter and stuff! The only "outdoor" rated one that had was big enough for Ford F350 crew, I could have driven over it and zipped it up around the z like a sleeping bag. hey! Not a bad idea!

Careful gang, that ad states its a 10mm tool and makes reference to a 3/8 ratchet/breaker bar, which is close to 10mm. Our drain plug recesses are roughly 1/2" square drive, I'm not sure this is the right tool. if anyone is thinking of buying it. Look for a 13mm drive tool.

Technically there is no need to remove the driveshaft at all if you remove the engine and trans as a unit. Drain the trans first and just take the engine/trans out. Drive shaft just slips out. Done it several times including putting it back by lining it up on the way back in. Call me lazy.

The size of the holes in washers will tell you which is top and bottom. The pin they mount over is fatter near the body than it's threaded end.

IIRC drivetrain.com has been mentioned here several times before. Nissan is always another source. Just did a quick check, they do list parts for the 4 and 5 speeds. Good place to start anyway. Search for FS5W71A or F4W71B. With your VIN you have the F4W71B stock, the FS5W71A is the 77-78 280z and 79-83 280zx 5 speeds with various gear sets.

I'm pretty skeptical that an attempt to retorque head bolts in an old engine is going to 1.) fix his problem, and most importantly 2.) any torque applied to the heads will actually go into any additional clamping force on head. For those of you who have taken old head bolts out, how many have threads that are clean, well oiled and can be spun out by hand? Answer? 0. How many of you have broken at least one in the process? Answer, likely a few. Even if Brian does get the bolts loose without breaking any, how even and accurate is the re-torque likely to be given the condition of those threads? Just seem like such a low probability of success and such a high prob of making it worse.... Sorry to be Mr. Cautious this morning...

Oil in the dizzy mount hole is normal. Relax on that. Repairing that hole is best done by welding it up then re-tapping the hole. Any machine shop can do the welding. Use the cap to guide your drill bit to start the new hole. Have to take all of the guts out first. Not the cheapest or easiest route, but the best. Other options; JBL weld/Epoxy the hole then retap (quick result, short life, but how often do you take the cap off), next use a bolt that passes through the hole and use a nut on the end, or Jb/weld epoxy the nut on the bottom so it stays put. Next, try to find a very small nutsert. Last, buy another base. Put an ad in the 'Want to Buy' section. Other ideas anyone?

Wow! Nice job of laying out all the issues. I'll start. First, you need a 14 mm and a 17mm wrench. The other issues are covered in archives several times. Search for "Valve Adjustment". Oh, one warning. the hot and cold clearance specs have been reversed in some references. Hot are wider. Kinda counter intuitive, but true. next!

If the VIN really is 8765, its not a 72! more like about a 08/70 build date, makes it a 71. Check the drivers door jam ID plate to get the build date and get back to us.

I'm betting the PO put that bearing in place in the rear as the original rubber bushing was missing or deteriorated and the only thing that is the "same" and readily available is the bearing intended for the front (same size). Unless someone at Nissan was having a very early thought about HICAS rear steering back in the 70's, there is no need for a bearing in the rear.

What is really interesting is the standard BD on-line catalogue has them at $19.95 http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/zr/full.aspx?Page=16 while that page Jeff referenced has them at $34.95 and $29.95. Seems like either way that's a heap better than Singapore....

Hmmmm... 300 cc/min injectors on engine designed for 185cc/m injectors. Maybe the fuel pressure regulator is not the only reason for running a tad rich....... Just thinking out loud here.... Your not going to get control of your fueling problems with the stock EFI system.

Oh sure, now I can really concentrate on work after watching that. Thanks a lot.....

Ah that nasty little piece. First, realize that it is held on by its shape mostly, and one little internal clip at the back end that makes it extra tight at that end. So, starting at the back end. Put tape on the paint around the end of trim, on the paint to avoid boo-boo's. Use a large blade screw driver or similar prying device and "convince" the end to pop off by prying it away from the body, in an outward and upward motion. Use as wide a blade as you can find, something that can press on the body and not cause damage. Put a wooden backing stick behind it if you have to. Once the end is free, the rest just "rotates" off. Looking at the end, from the back towards the front, rotate the trim clockwise, pulling it up and away from the body. Once its off, study the shape of the piece and the shape of the lip on the car and you'll understand how they hook together. Oh, and I'm still working on that list. Haven't forgotten.