zKars

The housings are not the same. tHere are very distinct differences. Didn't we just discuss this the other day on another thread?

I see no Z there. Only fossilized remains... Sad indeed that what it was is lost, but it is now only a form that invokes strong memories and feelings that compell us to wish it back into being. Only a few of us have time, will and resources to attempt such a resurrection.

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html

Fantastic! Glad to hear it worked out for you. Any time I can help, let me know.

Its attached with a self tapping screw to the side of the frame rail above the tank back there, just beside the hole where the harness passes through the hatch floor. Bad news, you can't get to it with the tank in....

Check the voltage between the + coil terminal and a nearby metal ground point. Do not use the coil - as a reference. Do the crank verses run comparison and let us know. Run a wire from the + terminal on the battery directly to the + side of the coil and see if you get spark when cranking or if it starts. This will by pass the ign switch.

I don't see any indications of that being a cap. Looks like a mighty nice dash you have there. Hope it stays that way. As to adhesive removal, stick with Orange/citrus based products. Look for orange bottles with names using variations on "Goo" and "gone". Very effective, though slower, and no change of harming the plastics.

The stub axles threads are 20 x 1.5. Get the nut from the 280zx as Jon indicates. There should be no problem getting them Nissan.

You're about the steal the show. May not be fair to the other entries! On second thought, go for it! You will have fun, guaranteed!

Not any Datsun part I've ever seen.

It is entirely possible to overfill. The Nissan transmissions take a MEASURED amount of lube, you do not fill until you reach the fill hole!!!! 1.7litre for 4sp, 2 litre for 5sp. (ZX BW T5 may be different...)

The other day a friend and I were discussing our respective commuting bicycles (stay with me here, it gets better). I mentioned how my latest bike seemed SO much easier to peddle, feeling almost friction free compared to my old cruiser. It mentioned how the old one seemed to be down right hard to pedal compared to this new one in the same situation. Different tires? gearing? newer bearing? He immediately piped up and asked if I had ever changed my chain and/or sprockets? (see where this might be going?). He was not surprised at all, and offered this (to him) well known detail of bike maintenance. Change your chain and sprocket every year or two!! Seems we often talk about timing chain stretch here, but so far, I've only ever heard the discussion in terms of how it adds extra length, and "slack" and how that affects cam timing and ultimately how that's bad. Or how its getting weaker as a result of fatigue and may fail. But as I have come to understand, there is another side to this we have not been considering! Let me explain. What is it that actually changes when a chain stretches? Not only the entire length, but the spacing between the holes in each link increase! At the same time, what does NOT change? The spacing between each tooth on the cam and crank sprocket!!!! So what is the result?? The ever increasing mis-match between the sprocket teeth and chain hole spacing increases FRICTION between these components, which increases WEAR on the teeth, etc etc and the whole things gets worse quickly. This is why my poor old commuter has gotten progressively harder and harder to pedal after 150,000 miles (well, feels like it...) and why that new one just about pedals itself! It also may be very good reason to consider changing your timing chain on the ol' Z perhaps a bit more often then the NEVER, that most of do except at rebuild time. Just food for thought. Comments welcome. Not evening claiming the resulting changes in friction are robbing more than a 1-2 HP, but you never know. Maybe its a tuners secret....:stupid:

Dang! I was going to look last night and get back to you! Almost positive they are 14 x 1.75 or 14 x 2.0. The 14 diameter I'm quite sure of. The stud has different threads in the diff cover than for the nut, One of them is 2.0 pitch, and the other is 1.75, just not positive which is which!! If you can wait until this evening, I'll check for sure.

It seems like a shame, but there's nothing. Maybe the Nissan emblems are about the only thing that has any connection....

How would you like a whole booster? I'm assuming its the little one for your 70, I have an extra here. No idea if it works, it came from a parts car, but its complete and great for parts. Drop me a line z240@shaw.ca if you'de like it. Other than that, try a local shop that rebuild vacuum boosters. Yellow pages! (yellowpages.com of course...)

I am in the process of purchasing a set from them. Just can't resist. In their response to my email inquiry (from Vivian) they mention volume discounts. I have put out an e-mail to our local club members to see if there is interest before I pull the trigger on mine, but I would be interested in anyone from Calgary and area who is interested to contact me if they want in on the deal. They are quoting prices as low as $857 at set if we purchase 6 sets (front and rear). Quite a saving. Let me know if anyone is interested. z240@shaw.ca

Jim First check the fuel pump fuse. Its not on the fuse panel in the console, it's a white inline fuse holder and can be found behind the heater control/fuse access area. Try reaching around behind the console on the passenger side to find it. Take the console out to get better access from underneath if you have to. There is also a rear defrost in-line fuse back there too, so look for both to be sure you find the right one. There is no stock fuel pump relay on a 73. Only FI cars (74.5-78 26/80) have that. Many of those little universal relays have the wiring diagram right on them, cast into the plastic. The terminal numbering is universal. 87 and 30 get connected when you apply 12volts across 85 and 86. (ground either one, +12 to the other) I'm doing that from memory, do a little googling to confirm. And of course before you do anything, run a temp wire from the battery directly to the pump and make sure it still CAN work! Might be the pump itself. Sounds like you might have already done that test, just be a shame to run all that wire than still not have it work. Also check the harness connector to the fuel pump and fuel level sender in your hatch. You have to take off the plastic panel in the back over the taillights to get to it, on the pass side. The ground side of that circuit is harder to get to. The terminal is under the hatch floor, well hidden by the gas tank. Not likely the issue but you never know. Changing to use just a mechical pump is another possibility. Simple, quiet, no wiring or fuses. KISS.. Just laying out the options. Jim

Oh for heavens sake... (OFHS ) 10mm.... The fan switch knob screw is a 3mm x 0.5 mm pitch. Its 7.6 mm long with 4.5mm of thread. To find something similar, think hobby shop, like a good one with lots of parts for RC cars and planes. Maybe even an electronics supplier that sells volume control like- devices and their respective knobs might have something. Jim

Mark: See the other post. Those bolts are not stock. This is a "clever" (other may have a different word for it...) attempt at camber adjusting me thinks.

Mark: I came to me senses when I realized there is a transverse link in the front too. Dang near went batty lookin' for that part number in the rear end part of the FSM... then that picture in post #3 really threw me. Is that what was holding the transverse link up till now? Wow! I'm sure I dig up a spare set. Drop me a note z240@shaw.ca and we'll get together.

Aha! That is your trip-odometer reset knob to the left of the wheel! There is an identical knob on the RIGHT side of the steering column under the dash that is your dimmer rheostat! That cable attached to the left hand knob is attached to the back of the speedo. No wonder you were confused! Jim

This outta do it....

John Yup,plastic tank is smaller. I'll send you a great condition plastic tank for the cost of shipping if you decide that's what you'de like. Happy fathers day! Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send a picture. Jim

You have a leaking cold start valve that doesn't care if the connector is on it or if power is supplied. Maybe it leaks worse with power on. Remove the fuel supply hose to it and test again to confirm. Nice job of trouble shooting so far. Keep up the details. Jim

That is so nice! Excellent! I desparately wanted to do the same thing when I did my VA install. I used the black faced slider controls at least to retain as much of the stock appearance as possible. I'm assuming you're going to use the stock fan switch in place of the 3 position VA fan switch too? As long as you keep their hi-speed relay and if the internal contacts are clean, it should perform fine. How are you handling the separate hot and cold controls that the VA panel has? The stock panel only has one slider that does the cold to hot transition. A linkage that swaps from one to the other would be incredible cool (or hot!!) And as I read the other two posts it all becomes clear! Fantastic work! Great work. Nice to see