zKars

Check the voltage between the + coil terminal and a nearby metal ground point. Do not use the coil - as a reference. Do the crank verses run comparison and let us know. Run a wire from the + terminal on the battery directly to the + side of the coil and see if you get spark when cranking or if it starts. This will by pass the ign switch.

I don't see any indications of that being a cap. Looks like a mighty nice dash you have there. Hope it stays that way. As to adhesive removal, stick with Orange/citrus based products. Look for orange bottles with names using variations on "Goo" and "gone". Very effective, though slower, and no change of harming the plastics.

The stub axles threads are 20 x 1.5. Get the nut from the 280zx as Jon indicates. There should be no problem getting them Nissan.

You're about the steal the show. May not be fair to the other entries! On second thought, go for it! You will have fun, guaranteed!

Not any Datsun part I've ever seen.

It is entirely possible to overfill. The Nissan transmissions take a MEASURED amount of lube, you do not fill until you reach the fill hole!!!! 1.7litre for 4sp, 2 litre for 5sp. (ZX BW T5 may be different...)

The other day a friend and I were discussing our respective commuting bicycles (stay with me here, it gets better). I mentioned how my latest bike seemed SO much easier to peddle, feeling almost friction free compared to my old cruiser. It mentioned how the old one seemed to be down right hard to pedal compared to this new one in the same situation. Different tires? gearing? newer bearing? He immediately piped up and asked if I had ever changed my chain and/or sprockets? (see where this might be going?). He was not surprised at all, and offered this (to him) well known detail of bike maintenance. Change your chain and sprocket every year or two!! Seems we often talk about timing chain stretch here, but so far, I've only ever heard the discussion in terms of how it adds extra length, and "slack" and how that affects cam timing and ultimately how that's bad. Or how its getting weaker as a result of fatigue and may fail. But as I have come to understand, there is another side to this we have not been considering! Let me explain. What is it that actually changes when a chain stretches? Not only the entire length, but the spacing between the holes in each link increase! At the same time, what does NOT change? The spacing between each tooth on the cam and crank sprocket!!!! So what is the result?? The ever increasing mis-match between the sprocket teeth and chain hole spacing increases FRICTION between these components, which increases WEAR on the teeth, etc etc and the whole things gets worse quickly. This is why my poor old commuter has gotten progressively harder and harder to pedal after 150,000 miles (well, feels like it...) and why that new one just about pedals itself! It also may be very good reason to consider changing your timing chain on the ol' Z perhaps a bit more often then the NEVER, that most of do except at rebuild time. Just food for thought. Comments welcome. Not evening claiming the resulting changes in friction are robbing more than a 1-2 HP, but you never know. Maybe its a tuners secret....:stupid:

Dang! I was going to look last night and get back to you! Almost positive they are 14 x 1.75 or 14 x 2.0. The 14 diameter I'm quite sure of. The stud has different threads in the diff cover than for the nut, One of them is 2.0 pitch, and the other is 1.75, just not positive which is which!! If you can wait until this evening, I'll check for sure.

It seems like a shame, but there's nothing. Maybe the Nissan emblems are about the only thing that has any connection....

How would you like a whole booster? I'm assuming its the little one for your 70, I have an extra here. No idea if it works, it came from a parts car, but its complete and great for parts. Drop me a line z240@shaw.ca if you'de like it. Other than that, try a local shop that rebuild vacuum boosters. Yellow pages! (yellowpages.com of course...)

I am in the process of purchasing a set from them. Just can't resist. In their response to my email inquiry (from Vivian) they mention volume discounts. I have put out an e-mail to our local club members to see if there is interest before I pull the trigger on mine, but I would be interested in anyone from Calgary and area who is interested to contact me if they want in on the deal. They are quoting prices as low as $857 at set if we purchase 6 sets (front and rear). Quite a saving. Let me know if anyone is interested. z240@shaw.ca

Jim First check the fuel pump fuse. Its not on the fuse panel in the console, it's a white inline fuse holder and can be found behind the heater control/fuse access area. Try reaching around behind the console on the passenger side to find it. Take the console out to get better access from underneath if you have to. There is also a rear defrost in-line fuse back there too, so look for both to be sure you find the right one. There is no stock fuel pump relay on a 73. Only FI cars (74.5-78 26/80) have that. Many of those little universal relays have the wiring diagram right on them, cast into the plastic. The terminal numbering is universal. 87 and 30 get connected when you apply 12volts across 85 and 86. (ground either one, +12 to the other) I'm doing that from memory, do a little googling to confirm. And of course before you do anything, run a temp wire from the battery directly to the pump and make sure it still CAN work! Might be the pump itself. Sounds like you might have already done that test, just be a shame to run all that wire than still not have it work. Also check the harness connector to the fuel pump and fuel level sender in your hatch. You have to take off the plastic panel in the back over the taillights to get to it, on the pass side. The ground side of that circuit is harder to get to. The terminal is under the hatch floor, well hidden by the gas tank. Not likely the issue but you never know. Changing to use just a mechical pump is another possibility. Simple, quiet, no wiring or fuses. KISS.. Just laying out the options. Jim

Oh for heavens sake... (OFHS ) 10mm.... The fan switch knob screw is a 3mm x 0.5 mm pitch. Its 7.6 mm long with 4.5mm of thread. To find something similar, think hobby shop, like a good one with lots of parts for RC cars and planes. Maybe even an electronics supplier that sells volume control like- devices and their respective knobs might have something. Jim

Mark: See the other post. Those bolts are not stock. This is a "clever" (other may have a different word for it...) attempt at camber adjusting me thinks.

Mark: I came to me senses when I realized there is a transverse link in the front too. Dang near went batty lookin' for that part number in the rear end part of the FSM... then that picture in post #3 really threw me. Is that what was holding the transverse link up till now? Wow! I'm sure I dig up a spare set. Drop me a note z240@shaw.ca and we'll get together.

Aha! That is your trip-odometer reset knob to the left of the wheel! There is an identical knob on the RIGHT side of the steering column under the dash that is your dimmer rheostat! That cable attached to the left hand knob is attached to the back of the speedo. No wonder you were confused! Jim

This outta do it....

John Yup,plastic tank is smaller. I'll send you a great condition plastic tank for the cost of shipping if you decide that's what you'de like. Happy fathers day! Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca and I'll send a picture. Jim

You have a leaking cold start valve that doesn't care if the connector is on it or if power is supplied. Maybe it leaks worse with power on. Remove the fuel supply hose to it and test again to confirm. Nice job of trouble shooting so far. Keep up the details. Jim

That is so nice! Excellent! I desparately wanted to do the same thing when I did my VA install. I used the black faced slider controls at least to retain as much of the stock appearance as possible. I'm assuming you're going to use the stock fan switch in place of the 3 position VA fan switch too? As long as you keep their hi-speed relay and if the internal contacts are clean, it should perform fine. How are you handling the separate hot and cold controls that the VA panel has? The stock panel only has one slider that does the cold to hot transition. A linkage that swaps from one to the other would be incredible cool (or hot!!) And as I read the other two posts it all becomes clear! Fantastic work! Great work. Nice to see

Most likely the oil pump relief valve. If your oil pressure gauge is working like a tach, that's it for sure. Could also be a plug in the oil system. Definitely must be sorted out before continuing. Change the oil pump first, easy to do or just diassemble the relief valve in it to clean and re-try.

I believe there is one aspect of this topic that has not been covered. I have had a ceramic coated header for a number of years, but its not the heat that's been bothering me. Its the noise!! In my quest to quiet the car (more specifically the engine bay) but not the performance, I finally decided to try header wrap. Well wouldn't you know, it helps considerably, a reduction of at least 50% was instantly apparent. Not as good as a cast iron manifold, but getting close. Now the glorius noise of the triples is no longer drowned out. The properly restrained yet loud and clear notes of joy are mostly heard by those following me in my dust and I get just the backdrop of glorious stroker induced rumble seeping into my overall experience in the cabin. Clearly having a properly coated or painted header is highly recommended before the wrap to reduce on-going corrosion issues. About the only problems I've had after about 18 months with it is with making the mistake of wrapping too far under the car. When I rub high spots or bump strips etc the wrap gets ripped. I've even abandoned the classic and outdated 3 bolt header flange for a band clamp style connection that does not remove ground clearance and eases the system removal. Just my experience, yours may vary. Happy Motoring!

There is a great thread on hybridz.org about wiring and the L28ET swap, its even specific to the 81 which is slightly unique to the 82/3. Search and yee will find. Good luck!

I'm not aware of any differences in the 240 and early 260 (North Am. market) turn signals. The urethane air dams that I have seen that are meant to accept the 240 signal lenses usually don't come drilled for the mounting bolts, meaning that the owner had to do that, which leads to inconsistency. Perhaps this is what you are seeing?? Love to see a picture and some measurements of the turn signal housing themselves to see if there really are differences. You never know.

I'm thinking you're getting a vacumm leak when the AC is on. This is the only system "shared" by the AC and the engine that would cause such a dramatic effect. As to where to look, well, everywhere vacuum lines are used by the HVAC system. Study the FSM for clues. Watch stumbling verses boost. If the issue goes away when on boost, and comes back when you're on vacumm, then that really points to a leak. Good luck, be methodical. Jim