zKars

Hmmm.. Neve thought of that. I’m not sure you can access the three trim ring screws from the front. There are two little gaps where you can reach the aiming screws. I’m going out for a look! Ok, took a look. There isn’t any way to get at the three screws from the front.

Green white to ballast, front, long BW to ballast (rear), and short BW to coil + If you don’t have a ballast, connect the long BW and the GW together. I’mm doing the same thing to this car today. I’ll let you know if I run into issues

Put all the wires back where you had them on the coil and ballast resistor, (except the black one, that went to the points) then put the new Red/black from the pertronix in place. That way + current to the coil goes through the tach again. Once you get that working, you can try removing the ballast resistor by connecting its two leads together, IF the coil is 1.5 or 2 ohms on its own. Start there. Just realized you might not know where the three loose wires were originally. Picture coming

https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/door-moulding-finish-arm-rest As for the door handle and arm rest, the official fasteners are round head machine screws as noted in the parts fiche. Now I have found plenty of cars with hex head bolts (with phillips heads, actually JIS) holding those handles on, so there may have been a hardware supplier issue, who knows. Of course also 100 or so past owners in the doors to fix all the things that go wrong that then used the wrong fasteners. If you really want the exact bolts you are showing, I have them and can send them to you. If you just want to attach your parts, Ace or Belmetric are wonderful resources. Hint of the day. You likely struggled to get those four M5 machine screws out of the head light buckets, as have I. Once I have the out, I replace them with short M5 studs and nuts. Makes changing a light bulb out on a trip So. Much. Easier……

I can help with the location of the 3 little loops in Steve's kit. and the "other" little horseshoe bumper (pic #1). I looked through the collection and found them. As to install, just "slip them on" as they say. With tweezers, high mag reading glasses, swearing, beer/whiskey etc

I'm also testing a few "new to me" different weather-strip replacements and hope to report on what's working best. I'm actually sad this car has the latch bumpers in place, will make it hard to test. I typically don't use the Precision door seals or even Vintage Rubber, but use the often mentioned 1120A822 weatherstrip from McMaster Carr. I buy it by the 100 ft roll and dole it out 22 feet at a time (131.25 inches each). Just slapped some on this 1/71 I'm building before it goes to it's new home. 98-99 Kia Sportage seals are also popular. 0K01858760B I wonder if Kia ever recovered from the glut of buying that happened a few years back.

Today, for the very first time, I have, in my hands (well, attached to a z) a latch set, left and right that STILL have BOTH of the rubber coverings on the lock rotating part that touches the striker first! The passenger door (first couple of pics) shows that the rubber is worn through where it touches the striker, but its still hanging on for dear life. The drivers miraculously, has none of this wear. No clue how that has happened, but there it is. This is car is 1/71 VIN 18xxx with 80k miles on it. Arizona all of its life, but brought to Canada 20ish years ago and stored indoors since. As you can imagine, I have a "few" latch sets in my inventory, and absolutely NONE of them have any remnant of these rubber parts. Just had to share.

I wanted to put in one place, a reference topic to those who are struggling with slamming doors with new rubber weather-strip, whatever your source for that material. Mark Tanker, @wheee! here, posted an excellent few posts in his build thread that showed how to simply create the often missing rubber parts in our 70-76 door latches that will quickly solve the slamming. Find it here. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=294#elControls_656753_menu Steve Nixon (hope I spelled that right) has a commercial product that reproduces ALL of the 5 rubber parts that are in a latch mechanism. https://www.240zrubberparts.com/product-page/240z-lock-mechanism-set

Amazon is “a-wash” with spray nozzles! (Ha) Only thing on a 510, the cowl to windshield angle is too sharp, and the cowl is too close to the windshield to use these. Would have to put them on the hood. Not as “slick” a solution. Hey don’t Z’s have both RHD and LHD nozzle holes in the firewall? You “could put four nozzles in and get better volume! Or is that 510’s….. Arghhhhh

I’ve struggled with nozzles too. On my last personal Z, I put a pair of two-outlet each sprayers right on the cowl (from maybe a early 2000’s Altima?), ran the hose through a new hole in the firewall to get in there and enjoyed a full volume 4 spray pattern on the windshield. They were small black and low profile. I’ve since seen all manner of aftermarket spray nozzles that surface mount. Just an idea. I might be able to scrap up a set of stock nozzles if you really need some bad…. Found a picture of my sprayers on the cowl! From 2010! Dang I miss that car…

Can you tell that this group is a bunch of talented self taught fabricators with healthy dose of DIY and offer to help when needed? Yeah, that’s us and damn proud of everyone here.

https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124530-nismo-fuel-pump-install-help/ Closest thing I could find to a picture of where it goes. There are a pair of M6 threaded holes on the back side of the "frame" member, right side, just outside of where the rear control arm suspension hanging brackets mount. For $165 I'll make these plates all day long! cut, bend, drill four holes, two insert nuts, powder coat. Done.

Oh for heavens sake. Now that I know what I’ looking for, all of these are labelled as “Horn”and have the same connector. Also found another style of early buzzer Do NOT ask me why I didn’t just look at Matthew’s picture in the original post for this ad to see what I was looking for… Old people, jeez….

Well looky here. yes, it works. The most miserable little annoying buzz ever Been outside attached to this pedal box for ages.

Dang things are attached to the pedal boxes, not something I saved many of. I know a guy with a 73, maybe it’s still on there.

Am I close? The switch is not new, but in good shape. Might have a better one.

I’ll post a picture of the finished product today. Very pleased with the result.

So I happen to borrow a semi-professional steam cleaner machine from a car buddy in town to do a little carpet spot cleaning, and he happens to tell me how great it cleans car parts! So I have this 5 speed with a nice overall coating of 50 year old oil and crap all over it that I can just not “wait” to scrub manually, so I try it. This thing is magical! I knew steam is a common industrial cleaner, but never really considered it for home use. Well, my carpets are clean, and so is my transmission. The pics show one nice little area I cleaned with the rest of the dreary dirty stuff around it. This took about a minute. The cleaning end has a little stiff brass brush (SS also available) that you scrub lightly with. This thing is dangerous, 315F steam at high pressure. But man! Does it clean aluminum. And I don’t know where the grime goes, it just disappears…… Small puddle of water on the floor. Anyway, something to add to the tool arsenal. Ain’t cheap, glad to have a buddy to borrow from. I have a little one I bought for like $50 to steam my gas tank (remember that), that thing would be slow. And yes, it blew whatever the heck my grand daughter messed up the carpet with right outta there in about 20 seconds with no detergent,

IF you want to learn about high temp gasket materials.... https://customgasketsltd.com/high-temperature-gasket-material/ and good ol' McMaster Carr

Other than buying one as a part of a full gasket set, can't seem to find anyone carrying this gasket Part #24, 14004-N4300 The exhaust manifold to down pipe gasket for a 76 280 L28. Happy to make my own I guess, but never shopped for gasket material for this high heat application. Anyone have any recommendation on what to use?

No need for the nipple unless you’re going to keep using the flow control valve, which is where that nipple goes to. This is a 280 right, so you don’t have that, your tank vent is via the charcoal canister. I really should go back and read the start of the thread…. If you really want one with a knipple, I can send you one of mine.

All the 240 and 280 tubes I have are the same OD, 0.99 or 0.985. All look the same on the end. The measurement I made is of the larger OD, beyond the short initial step. They are not tapered.

Don’t be so quick to bash the vendor. What did that guy think he was buying for $50? A hand made, custom designed one of kind bespoke wonder device with gold trim? Maybe he’s never looked at the near infinite supply of 100’s varieties of a 1000 such automotive products on Amazon and thought this was a nice custom piece for his Z and decided, on his own, to spend his money as he saw fit. Only after he realized what he bought, how cheap they are to buy himself, and how little value was actually added by Harmon, did he get indignant about it. Typical. Let the market decide if a product price is too high. Just buy the USB charger thingy that fits into your existing cig lighter hole and avoid the buy it or build it hassle completely.

I’d be happy to sell my 55R/L pair. Let’s discuss the details with a personal message. I’ll send you one right now.

The stamp on the back of them has a number and a R or L for right or left. These are 55L on top and 55R on the bottom