zKars

Didn't see or generate any black spots. No surprise they exist.

on the axle price, say $300? $900 new but given the recent bad press I can seem to give them away. on the datsunrestomod axles, I bought the version that have the snapin Subby stubs that are part of their CV axles. No need for another $350-500 for the adapters needed for the futofab cv's

Never experienced anything in Canada even close to what I find here. Hard to explain. Just know it's VERY fun.

I have a set on my 510. Work perfect. I have the STI diff stub version. I'll let my old Futofab axles go for cheap. Hate them.

https://datsunrestomods.com/collections/all just saying maybe its time to abandon the porch Cv adapter w/lock wire and sloppy spline stuff...

View Advert Wanted: 5 speed striking rod Hey gang Ive had a transmission rebuilder ask me for a striking rod for rhe FS5 trans. Any body have one or any leads? Advertiser zKars Date 06/08/2019 Price $1,233,456.00 Category Parts Wanted Year 0 Model Z or ZX

NO straight roads. All perfect pavement. Could never drive every road. Too many, every one is tight narrow twisty, bounded by rock or bush RIGHT there at your mirrors and rims. Lots of on-coming traffic, including trucks, makes for continuous butt clinching, challenge filled driving. Glorious! Only downside is the passenger's constant screaming and pleading for mercy.

Ireland; Roads. Incredible. Go. PS. Buy life insurance first... oh yeah, The scenery's ok too.

look for a m8x1.0 banjo fitting and make your own.

Sorry to hear of this unfortunate situation and the engine damage. While you'll never know if the cap failure or timing contributed to the engine failure, it will always leave the lingering doubt about the product, even without the customer 'service' contribution. I too had the center electrode fail in my 123 dizzy cap that left me stranded in a far away place. I wasn't smart enough to carry a spare, as I thought the new one would last longer than 2000 km. Silly me. I carry a lot of spares, before and after that event, but rarely have had to use any of them, but experiences like this make the practice necessary.

Tanks Inc and Holley sell great in-tank pump solutions. There are others, do a bit of searching. I like one of the Holley setups as it comes with their Hydromat product that acts like the world's best fuel sponge in the bottom of the tank. Look up the Holley 12-130

Ah, that makes more sense. A total of 3. Still I marvel at how moving the nozzle less than a full station makes much of an effect, yet it clearly does. Seems to me the flowrate of fuel from the nozzle may be a more complex function of the total needle profile that is immersed in the nozzle than simply the difference between the needle OD/nozzle ID area at the top of the nozzle.

This is very helpful information. Thanks for posting it. I was reading the above post about the case where Mark had to add 3 turns to compensate for an elevation change to get back into drivable state. I had to richen it up about one turn to go from Whistler BC down to sea level in Squamish on one trip. Geez 3 turns seems like a lot I said.... So just as a point of reference in this subject matter, let's connect the number of turns required to move one station on a needle. The threads on the nozzle height adjuster are 1.0mm pitch I believe, so moving 1/8 inch, the distance between needle stations requires just a bit more than 3 complete turns. Makes me wonder how I get significant changes to AFR when tweeking the knob just 1/2 a turn or so during garage tuning sessions .... Crossing a threshold from one to the next? Maybe this stuff isn't so simple..

I probably have a couple of these laying around in decent shape. PM me or send an email to z240@shaw.ca

I have lots of bits and pieces like that, although the rubber ring bit are likely in poor shape. PM me or send an email to z240shaw.ca to discuss

More updates While trouble shooting an alternator wiring problem on my 510 with yes, another similar GM alternator, wired as two wire, I have more to add on the subject. First, I ran across another excellent reference web page that does an excellent job of describing the workings of all the GM alternator variants, and how to properly wire them. https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/#onewire My initial suggestion/recommendation about using the hotrod oriented 1 wire alternators from Mopac, has, shall we say, 'evolved' I've had consistent problems with them as they have a non-insignicant amount of current drain when the car is off. They kill the battery within about a week if you don't drive it. Hence I've moved on to the two wire style, where you supply a switched +12 wire to the alternator on the "F" or "I" terminal (right next to 'S') (see above link for very good explanation). The above reference alternator has the same case style as the original nissan alternator, so you don't have to modify your mounting base. A little spacing is about all you need to do. All I have to do is remember which car it's for. I'm pretty sure its a CS130 from the 88-89 Eagle Premier. 100 amp, internal regulator of course. You have to put your pulley on it, they come with a serpintine belt pulley. These alternators have a four wire socket that accepts a plug. You can get a pico 5657-bp pigtail from your auto parts store or get one from the wrecker. https://picocanada.com/en/view_product/5657-BP According the above link, the common practise of just jumpering the "I" (or F) terminal directly to the output terminal to excite the alternator is not the best idea. Read the details in the pirate4x4 link and you'll understand why.

I sent you an email. Let me know if I can help.

A 12/70 build dates makes it a 71 model year in most North American jursidictions. Aug (08) is the change poin, if it's month 8 To 12, it's model year is one more than the build date year. Not sure why we keep getting mixed up on build date vs Model Year. And yes, this does appear to be a great car at a decent price.

Hmmm. The 2+2 has an ash tray back there, if we are talking about the same place.

Well I have my new wallpaper for the computer for the next month or so. Thank you. All those shiny bits just waiting to be properly sorted into their new homes. Pay taxes? Feed the cat? Sleep? Nah, later, I got something important to do first.

Hey Leon. Talk about funny and bad timing. I was near 'Frisco in January picking up some Datsun goodies with my truck, if I'd only known... oh well. Let me know if and when your buddies are passing through. I am definitely not into packing it up for shipping, I'd have to build it a wood crate to keep it safe in transit.

This is too funny. I pulled the identical NOS Kamei spoiler out of the back of a dead 260 at the junk yard here last Auguest. It too had the stickers and complete manual/documentation with it. Not a hint of the date anywhere on the paper work. Any one who wants to come and take from my rafters is welcome to it for what I paid for it out of pick and pull. It's hard plastic or FPR or something, it won't last long on curb stops.

Excellent. I was a bit worried about the rust pitting, but it seems to have been totally superficial. Gorgeous!