zKars

I have a friend here with a 72 Z with auto trans, that needs a new flexplate. The ring gear teeth are all chewed up. Rockauto has one listed for all the 280 and 280zx, starting with 75 but nothing prior to 75., Here is a link to the only they list for 75-83. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1983,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209394,transmission-automatic,flexplate,8608 What are the chances of it fitting the torque converter on the 72? I suppose you could get a matching torque converter and flexplate (they list both in the 82 stuff) if there something unique with the early converter. I know there are hundreds of you out there intimately aquainted with the vagarities of the Datsun automatic transmission offerings, so this should be an easy question, right? And happy new year BTW.

I really need to design the universal lock/sandwich plate with LLLLLLLOOOOOOONNNNNGGGGGG slots that I've had in mind for ...... hmmmmmm 150 years, maybe more, so folks don't ever have to rely on finding the 'right' base for their dizzy choice. Just imagine your current base with the short little slots extended alllllllll the way around in a circle. Just a couple three bridge points so it's one piece. How hard can this be in this land of CNC laser cut parts?

Undo the two bolts that hold that front channel in place, and see if it will slide by hand up and down the nylon block smoothly. This will isolate if the binding is in the nylon block movement in its channel, Or else, something other misalignment that is causing the window to move such that it pushs the nylon awkwardly, binding it in its channel That channel is made of some thick steel, but I have seen some bent ones... I think those were mostly PO's trying to 'improve' the motion...

Assuming you are asking if you should or not, go for it. Only the 78 has a unique AFM without the internal fuel pump switch.

Maybe. Most of them have loose joints, but there should be a couple of decent ones. My hood had the same issue, though not so bad. I removed the torsion bars, should have done the hydraulic lift mod. Next one! Worn pins/rivets are very common. I'm sure the holes they pass through are worn oval as well. Would be great to come up with some replacement rivets! You'd have to grind the heads off of these, likely weld up/redrill the worn holes and re-assemble. I'll have to take my worst one and oper 'er up and see "where the wear" really is.

Why do the perfect Christmas gifts always show up when its too late? Next year I know what to get uncle Kevin at least...

Sitting here with a hoard of relatives, thinking how lucky I am. Also thinking how lucky I am to have more parts than relatives... Hope you get a chance to spend time with some of your hoard as well. Cherish every second. Merry Christmas!!

I have a few complete 240 columns, I can send you one. I also have the hardware that comprises the insulator (rag joint) and connections to the lower steering rod. Send me a PM here or email to z240@shaw.ca and we can discuss arrangements further. Merry Christmas!

Welcome to the cheap little box of fun club! That's an amazing condition 68 wagon. Is the inside as nice as the outside?

List price is $4 each.

My paltry collection of such items is thus: My expection of worth are of course astronomical. I'm thinking $5 each... hohohoho

All very impressive. Did you actually use 5/16 in thick aluminum to fabricate the tank? Misprint? Definitely bullet proof if it is.

The old 73 contributes to yet another friend in need. All is right with the world. At least the one I care about.

You people will buy anything apparently. I wonder what I could get for a large pile if freshly removed undercoating? Just re-heat in a big pot on the stove and trowel it on. Now that's recycling. Remove, Reheat and Re-apply!

Well that didn't take long. Pete, just sent an email. Jon, I'll let you know if Pete bows out.

I found a Caswell Zinc and Copy CAD plating kit I bought several years ago stashed away high on a shelf. I use a local plating company for all my plating, pretty sure this will never get used. Can't beat taking 100 lbs of dirty parts and hardware to them and get it all back shiny and new in a few days. It's everything in this kit except the two 2-gal pails. It's all in a nice cardboard box waiting to get shipped to some deserving sole. Even if you just want more chemical for your existing kit, this can't be beat. in https://www.caswellplating.com/copy-cad-reg-and-zinc-plating-kit-1-5-gal.html There is also four extra aquarium heaters in there that I used one to heat up a big batch of cleaner/degreaser once. Never do that again. You can keep your goldfish or tea warm with a couple. Asking $40 USD. Please don't make me recycle it....

I have heard of them, and their products are top notch. I have his rack conversion going on my dime this winter. Byebye 37 ball joints and that 100lb steering box.

There is a bit of advice I can give that might help you decide on the best way forward. If your current wiring is in such bad shape that most connections are corroded and wiring cracked, and terminal ends are beyond repair, switches are all malfunctioning, then it might be wise to start with a fresher wiring harness, switches, and new lighting/devices. If problems are only in certain areas, then address those areas. Why? In order to add a completely new and different wiring harness into your car, you will have to learn every wire, switch and connection of the existing system in order to adapt in the new wiring. This assumes you aren't replacing every switch, light fixture, flasher, gauge, etc. You have a ton of stock switches and gauges and such that you have to connect to, that may not be designed with the same switch logic that the new harness is built for. Why not just fix what you learn is wrong as you go? Especially if you're not comfortable with electrical functions and repair. Depends entirely on your time available and dedication to quality connections and splices along the way. I have no doubt you CAN do it, but will the effort and final result be better than a careful review and targeted repair to the existing wiring given your time and willingness to learn and do it right? Your decision of course.

That's a very good point. The overall fit and finish of the Eastwood tooling looks and feels great, BUT, I have not actually had a chance to make a flare with it yet! Perhaps I should before letting my precious FedHill tool escape my grasp. I know I know, who in the their right mind buys a new tool without immediately taking it out of the box and trying it? I've been busy, ok?

I have since acquired such a thing since July. PM me or email z240@shaw.ca for details. I also have the DIYAutotune code wheel replacement if you need that too. I think it's this one https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/

I always buy the MOOG ball joints. Never had a fitment problem underneath with the ball joint not fitting through the control arm hole. After you clean the powder coat off, make sure it fits completely through without interference, don't tighten the bolts bring it flat.

Yes it completely replaces all existing HVAC components. I've done four installs now, and the average time is around 50 hours. Everything has to be custom mounted, run, wired, fabricated, created, massaged etc. Takes time. My time is free but if you're having it done, not so much.

I have used a professional brake line flaring tool from FedHill now for about 7-8 years and it has never failed to make a perfect flare that seals the first time you assemble the connection. I am now offering it for sale. I've heard the pain in prose from several here in many threads about the agony of making brake lines. This will forever remove the temptation of using old lines when new ones become so easy to make. Recently Eastwood had a big Black Friday sale (didn't everyone?) and decided to replace it with their similar tool that comes with not only the 45 double flare dies, but an additional 37 deg tooling set that I find myself using more and more when I install AN piping components. My hand held RIGID 37 deg flare tool, while high quality, is not my favorite tool to use. Thus my old trusty flare tool is now surplus. It comes with dies for 3/16, 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 line. I've only ever used the 3/16 dies for brake lines, as I use 37deg flares on the other sizes when doing fuel lines and such as they connect to AN fittings. I only ever used the Cunifer (Copper Nickle Alloy) line with is very soft and very easy on the tooling. All documentation is included. It makes bubble and single flares as well as the standard (for us) double flares. Here is what Fed Hill sells now. Mine has their earlier steel box case. http://store.fedhillusa.com/index.aspx/ImageGallery/Index?productId=24 Note that this is a tool that MUST be used clamped in a bench vise. Makes it tough to use on a line under the car if you're repairing an existing line, you'll need a hand held tool for that. I recommend this one https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html Retail is $360 USD on the fed hill tool, I'm looking for $200 + shipping. You'll wonder how you ever did without it. PM me or send me an email z240@shaw.ca

The humidity in this part of the world tends to be pretty low. We generally don't have to rush to seal the metal after exposing it. The hand lotion companies do great business here.

When do we get to discuss if the coolant temp sensors are correct or not? AFM? Thermostat? Oh right, we should do something else now....