zKars

Brilliant! I love the simple solutions. Great work. Note this only works for the 77-78 doors. I wish the improvements in all of the components in the 77-78 doors are arrived sooner in the line. Alas....

Thank you for not making me find that picture again!

The ATS tool I linked to goes down to 1/4" tubing. I guess that leaves out 3/16, but I would think that would be small enough for our uses. I bought the graham small tool for 1/4 and 5/16. Works just great. Sorry Wheee! You're not borrowing from my crib! http://www.grahamtool.com/smalltubebeadingtool.aspx

The tool to form that ridge is called a beading tool. http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=AP145 OF course there are a hundred DIY tools on Utube...

What has happened to our DIY culture on this item? Let's see, what do we need? 1. Use a hated polyurethane bushing as a pattern and source of the four steel hole lining bushings. You can also laboriously extract these bushing from your old rubber one too. 2. Acquire a chunk of rubber. Get a few different durometers. If your get 1/4 thickness of various durometers to build a sandwich and experiment with the steering feel until you get what you like. McMaster carr has a large variety of rubber types, some even with reinforcing layers. Rubber suppliers are surprisingly common. This stuff is not high tech. 3. Size and drill the holes using the old poly bushing as a guide. 4. Press the steel bushings into the holes. 5. Assemble on the car and go for a drive.

I believe I made it clear above that you "easterners" would be better served by finding some closer to home. This is your official dispensation from any Gibbs related corporal pushishment.

And the magic elixir has arrived to keep them lovely for all time. Anyone can pick one up locally off me for $20. And who better to be the spokesperson for this amazing product...

Here is the deal with the Gibbs stuff. Finally contacted my "local" supplier. He is sending a case today. He ships via Purolator, as they will ship small quantities of Dangerous goods such as aerosols via ground. He is confirming a cost for me for the case I'm asking for, but believes the last one he sent here was $25-ish. Here is Purolators web site info on how to handle the packaging. http://www.purolator.com/assets/pdf/dangerous-goods/Shipping-Dangerous -Goods-Aerosols.pdf Canada Post, and all it's wonderful cheapness, will not ship dangerous goods, aerosols are on that list. This may make my distribution of products to Eastern Canada non-cost effective. Since all (most, sorry Blue) of the above interested parties are in Ontario, I'm willing to bet you will be better off (ie spend less $$) if you order from one of the local suppliers near you directly. Here is the contact page. http://www.gibbscanada.com/20080825/dealers.html Let me know that doesn't work out, and I'll get my roll of strapping tape and boxes ready.

Nice find! there you have it, all S30 covered for mere pennies. Now if only clips and fasteners had new hardboard door cards so these fancy new clips had something solid to clip onto!

While looking through one my of favorite parts suppliers web site for "stuff", I spotted these beauties. ( Clipsandfasteners.com) They seem to be near perfect replacements for the 240z door panel card clips and receiver cups, but since there are no dimensions, I had to order some and find out. Good news! Here is a comparison between a couple of each, old and new. But dear god the PRICE!!! Don't get me started about shipping costs and GST, and exchange rate etc. I searched a bit to see of anyone had found these before. There was a post from @Mike W about his having found these, but he didn't divulge the part numbers. Now you got them. And they fit 510 door cards and doors too! Bonus!

Will do Granny. Still waiting for a reply....

I'm chatting with the Gibbs dealer in Edmonton. No one in Calgary yet. His price is $21.50/can + shipping, or $15 a can if you buy 12. Once I get a shipping quote from him, I let you know if its worth me buying 12 and shipping them to you Canuckers a bit cheaper. May be an issue with shipping aerosols that makes it a bit pricier.

Functional differences are small between them. Most street users will never know the difference. As Mike W says, the real difference is availability and parts access. Webers win hands down. Mikuni prices are going a bit crazy too. Like stroker cranks and S1 console fuse box covers, they are better investments than any stock I've seen lately

And let's not forget that these nifty two terminal oil pressure senders could be used to add a safety switch to ANY of us doing an electric pump upgrade without have to resort to the usual ugly non-Nissan and non-BSPT threaded Holley 12-810 blob and T-manifold you have to build to keep the original oil pressure sender ...

Very interesting rendition. Certainly a strong 240 look, the fog lights are a bit I wonder if the rather marked European shape to the license plate suggests/implies distrust of foreigners... To us the suggestion is just silly. It's like portraying a golden retriever as a guard dog....

Anybody want a partially completed '69 510 restoration? Asking $13,000 AUS....

Here are a few pictures of the coil and fuse for reference. I can take measurements of various bits if that helps. That's a 2A fuse BTW. The coil seems to be a nail-like core, with a black insulating cover, then coils of copper wire connected to the nail head and spring to electrically connect it through. Sorry, no, you can't have this one.....

I'm not the closest, but if no one closer offers you one, I can help. Send me an email to z240@shaw.ca to carry on.

Works just fine at least in a 280 tank! it's in mine waiting for the day when I finally give up on carbs. Real soon, yeah... You just have to position it in the right spot so the fuel sender arm clears it. You have control of the length/depth of the frame to get it "just" on the bottom of the tank. The only wrinkle is that the top elbows are too tall. I had to fabricate a hole and cap in the hatch area. No biggy

Another angle on the EFI solution is to install a 280z (75-76) tank in the 240. It does fit. It is a bit taller, and hence sticks out a bit lower below the rear valance, and bit wider, but there is plenty of room on the left side without interferring with the muffler area. The strap on the left side doesn't quite line up with the grove in the tank (about 1/2 a strap out-ish?), but it's not a big deal. Can't remember if I lengthened the straps or used the 280 straps. Of course the trick is finding a tank....

Forget to put the fitting on? No problem. Cut the tubing in the middle, slip the missing thing on, and then practice your low current TIG welding skills.... Use some 18 gauge copper wire strands for filler wire!

I may have mentioned this before, but I'm a huge fan of the Cunifer (Knickle Kopper alloy) lines. So easy to bend and flare. You know that tight little S shaped front caliper hard line? You can ALMOST bend it by hand into that shape. POC with a simple bending plier. And they shine up real purdy. I got my stock from fedhillusa.com, best price I found anywhere. I also bought their flare tool and various fittings from them as well. Their flare tool is top quality. BrakeQuip also has the alloy line and great flare tools as well.

Well I just want to thank all that came before me in the antenna mast plastic pusher piece part thingy department. After receiving my 155 ft of 0.13 string, the repair took less than 60 minutes given what was previously divulged above. Now I'm the one with 151 ft of 0.13 trimmer sting if anyone needs some.... My poor plastic string was busted in two places

How co-incidental is this. I spent this week resurrecting the 10-15 year dormant fuel system on a 78. Every section of the hardlines, including the fuel rail, was plugged including the fuel pump. A lot of the old fuel sludge blew out with compressed air, but no such luck on the fuel tank itself. The tank had 40 litres of the smelliest grossest sludgy crap I've ever dealt with. I tried the poke it with a wire method with no luck, then I resorted to petro-chemicals (I used Laquer thinner) to melt the stubborn blockage in the return line. I hooked up a 3-4 foot chuck of 5/16 rubber fuel line to the return tube, and hung it vertically up beside the rear fender to get it higher than the tank. I then filled the hose with laquer thinner and gave it a couple of hours to work on the crud it was now in contact with. I tipped the hose down into a low pan and out poured first clear laquer thinner then browner and browner then dark rust/crud/sludge. I repeated this process one more time, got more crap out, then applied compressed air the line and PHOOOMMM blew out the last of the crap. The old Z now purrs like a kitten. Required a new fuel pump too.

It's not that O'rielly's has lash pads, its the Sealed Power makes them and O'Rielly's (and others) are suppliers. http://www.jegs.com/i/Sealed-Power/844/MR1895/10002/-1 Also the stock thickness is 0.016, but not really. Note the bottom of stockers have an indent where the valves sit, recessed into the pad. Aftermarket thicker ones do not have this recess. You have measure the depth of the recess and subtract that from the overall thickness. I think they are closer to 0.12.