zKars

Zup sorry to hear about your son. Thinking about you and praying for a good outcome. Sounds like he's in the best hands possible.

Some "facts" well maybe opinions from my recent view of the market. The restoration costs of that car, if you have it done by a professional, to concourse level, will leave you with a beautiful car but will be worth much less at resale than it cost you to restore. It's VIN in is not low enough. If you do ALL the labor yourself, ie that portion is "free" then you may come out even in the end after retail sale, IF it's done very very well. Any cost cutting or poor quality will DEFINITELY leave you upside down. My two cents. Things are definitely improving market-wise, but we ain't "there" yet.

2800 km behind us, 700 more to go. In Sault Ste. Marie tonight, On track to get there tomorrow afternoon. How many cottage owners can there be on their way back from northern Ontario tomorrow with us on the only road out of there? Couple hundred tops, right? At least my wheel bearings are ok..... A2 and A6, real common ones. Fronts right? Just clean and re-pack the old ones. Keep going... and going, and going..

Won't be the only name we call you, but ok. Winnipeg is actually worse then Regina. I'd heard the rumors but, geez, looks like it all needs a good power wash. My apologies to all the "fiendly Manitoban's" ... . (You have to see their license plates to get that one...)

We will be pulling into the hotel mid day Monday, staying in Sault Ste Marie the night before. You know, in all the long weekend returning traffic... yuck.... Have another Jim with me for good measure.. In Regina tonight. I'm from here, and I still don't like it everytime I come back.

Fewer Jims. Hmmm. Likely a good thing. I confuse easily. Mind you if I just say "Jim" the chances of someone answering is as good as it was before. Oh well.... For example, I'm bringing a white Nissan, but I can't remember which one I decided on...

Thank goodness Zup is coming. We need all the Jim's we can get after the unfortunate bow-out of the esteemed jfa above. I'm counting five so far.

Sent you a PM Matthew.. $350 seems pretty darn high.

I'm not exactly close, but I think I have a set if that works for you. Definitely have another set, but they are still in a 73 engine. Will check the first and PM you.

I'm just waiting for the first report of premature rubber mount failures... Says the eternal parts pessimist. If the 5/16 nuts drive you nuts and bad line up issue has you twisted, then grind the nuts off or drill them out, and go with M8 bolts and nuts like the early mounts. Something about SAE hardware on a Datsun that drives me spinny...

It will be great to catch up with any of you characters. Hardly wait to get there. Just have to survive Winnipeg to Sault St. Marie......

That seat is staying right where it is. Yes it is the seat from this car, but it's totally shot internally. Instead of getting new foam, straps and skins, I "obtained" a near new pair of seats that are just getting new blue skins. I just wish the blue color would grow on me. It's interesting, but not my fav. I'm keeping it original though.

I've just about had enough of cleaning, scrubbing, prepping, coating and painting BLUE stuff for this Z project. I am having a little bit of trouble trying to remember where it all goes. Am I close?

These hints have worked well for me in the past. Remove the weatherstripping until AFTER you get the door to fit. Use wedges/shims under the door to position it and prevent rubbing the door on the inside of the door opening harming paint. Remember the adjustment is on the hinge/body interface, not at the hinge/door bolts. Loosen hinge bolts, close the door, use shims to position the door, then tighten the bolts. Won't work well unless your hinge pins don't have any play. Good idea to take care of that first. It sucks that 280's have the hinge body bolts accessible from the outside, requiring the fender to be removed to access them. Mind you with the door closed on the 240 its tricky to contort yourself to get access to the bolt heads from the inside.

I'm not quite sure how it got started, but when I log into my account on thier site and add things to my cart, the discount is applied to the items. Never had a case yet where the discount was not applied without having to remind them. Always note your CZCC number in the comments when you submit your order to ensure they are informed. Also never had an issue getting through on the phone. Your experience my vary I guess.

Excellent. There is one exact sweet spot where I mounted it on top that was both flat and that cleared the stock fuel sender arm movement. If you do get in a bind so to speak with the sender arm, there is a great alternative sender sensor that I discovered while working on the 510 last year that you could install at the same time as the pump. Check this baby out! http://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn38t-3 They come in various lengths, and the ohm range for this one is darn near perfect for a stock gauge.

Exceptional. Stirs my rally loving soul for sure. But did they have to use the "G" word in the very first paragraph of description? Kinda spoils it for me....

The best (?) part of this is that there WILL be a two legged grand "daughter" coming in November too! It will be a toss up which one I'll let in the shop the most, at least for a couple years. At least the child will bring the right wrench when I ask for it...

I know,she's stunning ain't she? And the Z behind her ain't so shabby either!

And to conclude this thread, here is @Zup 's center valence all done up real purdy and on the car. Thanks dude! That's my grand-dogger Ruby expressing her approval.

I put an in-tank EFI pump conversion (fit real slick) from TanksInc in my tank a few years back when I switched to a 280 tank for my 73. I had these same thoughts about "when I go EFI" but so far, have only gone from triple 44's to SU's, which are pretty darn nice. Hope that in-tank pump marinades ok.... Certainly heard of lots of folks with a stock EFI pump with a reg to get it down to carb levels being really happy too.

Most people would just make a new post with one word, "Bump", but no, not me.... Really? Not a soul? Hello, anybody out there? Is it me? I showered this morning, come on! Don't you people realize the risk you're taking? There are evil people out there right now with bags of sugar or those siphon pumps you can buy for almost nothing at any auto part store just searching for their next victim. You've seen the zombie shows, they're EVERYWHERE. Oh I get it, I showed you where to put the blob and revealed the cap part number, so you are all out there buying your own caps and trying to get some little blobs of solder or JB weld (that $hit fixes anything, right?) to stick to your fuel filler rings. Fine. If you try welding that blob on with the filler ring still on your car, don't blame ME when it all goes KABOOM. Fine then, I'm going to advertise on that FaceBook thing and all of THOSE folks will buy my caps and shiny filler rings. They aren't as smart or mature as you guys. Don't come crying to me when all the cheap ones I bought are gone or BWM finally sells their last one. How many caps do you think they have for the nearly extinct 45 year old cars these fit, anyway? Humph, maybe I should have paid more for those "how to sell stuff on the Internet classes". Maybe it IS me.....

Don't go too big. You're asking for premature burnout or noisy pump. Pumps like to flow, not sit there buzzing trying to pump through their bypass or cavitating. Bad. A nice Nismo low pressure fuel pump or a Facet FEP60SV (2.5-4psi) are my favorites.

The old pump was different than the new one. Both are your basic parts store CheapO pumps.... The new one is a AirTex E8012S, the old one was a Carter 9217A.

So let's review. The old pump appeared to work fine, but actually it does not work worth crap. It could provide the needed volume only under no load. When pouring open into a pail, it has tons of volume, but I did one important test that proved the point. I turned the pump on and put my finger over the end of the hose trying to stop the flow. It was easy to stop it dead with no squirt trying to get past my finger. No jam. With the new pump, it was almost impossible to stop flow with my finger. The wide open into a pail flow looked EXACTLY like the bad pump, but it has the power to provide volume while working against a closed needle valve. Now the carbs have proper fuel level in the bowls at all time and are not being starved with the resulting lean condition So we learn the difference and inter-relationship between pressure and flow rate. One more diagnostic nugget. At the end of the job, I remembered to remove my little manifold with the fuel pressure gauge before it drove away back to Edmonton never to be seen again. Car had been off for about 10 minutes while we were celebrating. I pulled the hose off and got a nice residual pressure squirt of fuel all over my hands and sleeves and in my face (safety glasses on, no problem). THIS NEVER happened with the old pump. It was unable to maintain a check valve seal when off.