zKars

I sold it right here in the classifieds! This is the For Sale section isn't it? I quite sure mine is the early switch. The picture you showed is of a later switch. The key to telling them apart is the head light switch wires. On the late 71 and later, the main HL on-off switch has a White/Red power wire from the battery, and a red one exiting the switch. This goes to the fuse box to energize the headlights. On 280's these WR and R wires get quite thick, I think 10 gauge and the bullet connectors get bigger too. Trying to make things better. Yet they keep the same switch... Sheesh... On the early switch, they switched the ground side of the circuit leading to the dimmer to turn the Headlights on, and the wire colors and routing of the HL switch wires are different. They use black wires bringing "ground" from the chassis, through the switch, to a red wire, that jumpers over to the center of the dimmer switch. The head lights common terminals are hard wired directly to the HL fuses to energize them. This was an early design, after this they all use the "switch on the hot side to the fuses" approach with the WR in and R out until 78. At least in North America. Also 280 switches are easy to tell apart from 240's. The HL/Wiper stalk angles up 15 deg or so, while all the 240 stalks are horizontal ( and hidden very well by the steering wheel spokes, hence the change in 74)

The switch set has been sold for $300. Thanks to all interested parties.

I'm not letting this go forever. I'll wait for further offers until Wednesday, then call it. I have had very good offers. Last chance if you're interested.

Repairing a defroster grid, while very possible, is a bit of a test of wills. Me, I'm just replacing the whole thing with a modern equivalent. scrape 'er off and start fresh. http://www.frostfighter.com/clear-view-defrosters-list-12V-1.htm These guys sell quality repair kits and total new systems.

I don't see any difference in how the 240 or 280 circuits work. The HL switch on the combo turns on power to the pair of fuses in the fuse box (L and R), which then power the common terminal of each head light through the R and RY wires. Then the dimmer switch grounds either the High or Low beam side to decide which is on at any time. The only true difference is the dedicated HL fusible link on the 280z. The only slight year related difference is in the early 70-71 switch where the HL combo switch acts on the GROUND side of the circuit, at the center common line to the dimmer switch, while the battery + side power is hardwired to the two fuses in the fuse box. The dimmer still grounds either the HB or LB side of the head lights. Even the harness wire color codes out to the head lights stay the same across all years. I'm pretty sure the early issues were totally about the lack of connector availability. While there other ways to approach this problem, including the one you mention to just put a relay at the HL combo switch contacts, Dave's harness that puts the relays way out at the headlight connectors, and moves the power supply directly to the battery, is the best overall solution for one very important reason. It removes high current requirement (and the resulting voltage drops and heat buildups and failures) from ALL switch AND harness connections AND fuse box fuses areas in one fell swoop. All components (switches, fuses, connectors) are reduced to relay trigger level power levels, which even the worst condition stuff is capable of handling. The only areas the user has to improve, clean or replace might be the pin contacts at the head light connectors where the new harness splices in.

So I find myself building a headlight relay upgrade harness for the 71 project car I'm working on. I've been making my own for a long time, can't justify the $158 USD cost of buying one from MSA. Especially with the exchange rate the way it is. While building this one, it reminded me that a friend had asked me to build him one for his '76 280 last fall, so I thought I should do two at once and save a bit of time. Then I remembered the "detail" that makes the 280Z harnesses a royal pain. There are no sources for the round 4 pin weatherproof connectors that the 280's use to make the harness plug and play. You are forced to hack into the harness or replace the plugs with 240 style plugs (not simple, and removes important weatherproofing). Yuch! Can't just hand him the harness and say "go plug it in". Has to come in and get it "wired in". So naturally I started doing a bit of research trying to find a solution. It's not simple. Those round weatherproof plugs and pins are just not out there to just go and buy at any price. But my question, my "raison-de-etre" for this thread, revolves around a central question. This has been such a long standing issue, and so many people have used the Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) inspired harness on their 240's (did you know he started that back in 2005? 10+ years!), have the 280 crowd just given up hope and moved on, or is there a huge buildup of "if only there was a solution!" seekers out there that would jump on such a thing if it were available? I haven't seen more than a couple of theads from 280 owners wrestling with this over the years. So what's the feeling out there? If there was a plug and play solution for 280 owners, would there be 5 intested parties or 500? Are 280 owners more likely to just be happy with a "hack the harness" solution than us prissy fussy 240 owners who insist on totally reversible "no-hack" upgrade solutions?

If its any consolation, I still scratch my head a bit about which wires go where when I hook those switches up. My favs are the separate green and white singles that connect to the flasher. They seem like orphans until it finally clicks....

First post a picture of your switch from a few other angles. I need that to id which year it comes from. Also post your build date. drivers door jamb. Make sure the pictures show the connectors. The 73 switches after 1/73 I think have intermittent wipers. You will see three white dots on the wiper switch rather then two on earlier ones.

Adding metal back is easy, it's just getting it to resemble the shape again! Afterall, you don't really "need" a PCV valve, do you?

Thanks for the mention Zup, but I don't have one at the moment. I have modified later ones to look like the clean early ones. I love to TIG and grind and polish. About the only downside is the finish isn't a perfect match to the stock cast aluminum look. For example, here's one of my early attempts where I got slightly carried away. You might notice a small problem with it...

All contacts on the switch check out with a VOM for continuity and insulation. It's in very good shape. I've felt/used many of these switches and this one is "tight" so the "mileage" is realitively low. I've done nothing to clean it up. I really hate pricing stuff. There are just so few prior sales made known of these switches to use for comparison. That's why I made all the noise about letting the market speak. I'm tempted not to put an asking price in at all, just take offers, but I think a number has to be mentioned, and clearly it has to be "high" as very few people will offer more than asking. I will be taking the high offer, whether it's $50 or $5000. I've promised to post the finally selling price to let the market know this data point for future reference. Anyone please feel free to post what you think it's worth. Remember the asking price does not determine the value. The finally selling price does that. How many sellers have been raked over the coals for crazy high asking prices for stuff, when in fact that number has nothing to do the value. Please be kind.

They don't look too bad. The only real test is connect them and apply hydraulic pressure. Remember this is a metal to metal seal on that 45deg inner bevel you just made, so look for symetry and even shape on that inner bevel and ignore the outside. I can help with the tubing prep. Three things are crutial. 1. Straight cut with perfect tubing roundness. ie must use a pipe cutter, never a saw. 2. Inside must be deburred. You must remove the natural inward ID reduction that happens with pipe cutters. I use a tapered round file 3. File a 45deg camfer on the outer edge all around. Doesn't have to be much, just try to make a nice consistent pass with a fine file. 4. Blow the tubing out to remove debris before assembling. Ok four things....

I was rooting through my collection of Z combo switches looking for a 70-71 set for my '71 project and I grabbed this one and was mightly confused for a minute (not all that unusual actually....). Everything seemed to be a mirror image, then it dawned on me. RHD! Now where the heck did I get this???? No clue actually. But I can't imagine needing or using it. So it's up for grabs. This is definitely a series 1 switch, it has the ground side head light switch wiring. Nice condition. All switches work smoothly, even the high beam. Turn signal lever is tight, none of the usual slop. I have not opened the switches to clean contacts. Connector plugs are all in really good shape. It all needs a good cleaning, but nothing other than age related dirt. No clue what this puppy might be worth, but I'll start with a $400 USD asking price, and take offers and see what the value is by polling the masses and let the offers define the value. Let me know what you think. Get me at z240@shaw.ca for fastest response. Remember the proceeds are going toward the resto of a nice early '71, not to party supplies. Well, maybe a little, man can't sand and weld and re-wire all day for heaven's sake!

I'm having trouble imagining where it is "hitting the strut towers". Can you describe where this contact occurs? Given what I know about the front sway bar, being 1" or so wider than stock would do nothing more than slightly increase the angle of the links at the end of the bar that connect it to the control arm. The thing fits under the car, how can it interfere with the strut towers?

Thought I'd fill this thread out a bit. Discovered this item on ebay. Fibreglass one piece valance. From a Canuck no less! http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-1975-Front-Valance-fits-Nissan-Datsun-240z-and-260z-/111788128159?hash=item1a0717779f:g:LEwAAOSw7ThUmOph&vxp=mtr

Many thanks to Zup for the valance panel. Now the 71 gets it's smile back!

Read EF-14 in the FSM to get real clear on how the Thermotime switch works and how it controls the Cold start valve. It's most important function to ensure the CSV is only used during cranking when the engine is cold (<14-22C) and to prevent the CSV from being on for too long if you do a lot of cranking before it fires. Given all the enrichment control the MS gives you about starting and cold operation, there is no "need" to use the CSV, but it may be an interesting exercise.

Alrighty. Found my stash of these valves. Discovered there two slightly different ones, the cap on two are aluminum, the others are steel. All bodies are all aluminum. I took the cap off one of the aluminum ones, the threads didn't survive. Took one steel cap off, no problems. Clean threads. All my valves are plugged with deposits, but they disolve quickly with Muratic Acid. CLR is slow for sure. Since the aluminum capped one is toast, I attempt to extract the guts. Success! Came right out. I used a set of bent nose c-clipp pliers as a pin wrench. Just twist until it gives. Now I can clean and rebuild the interior bits. Can't see why most of these wouldn't be restorable as long as body threads are good and the inside bits are badly corroded. One more observation. The fluid sealing cone is metal, likely brass. It seals against a tapered section of the body. No way this would ever made a perfect seal. Note the FSM statement above in the test proceedure about "little or no bubbles". Makes sense now.

I thought I remembered this discussion from hybridz. Interesting reading at least. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/109345-su-carb-manifold-heat-control/?hl=%2Bthermostat+%2Bvalve+%2Bmanifold i promise to look at my valves today. was a bit chilly out in the shop yesterday. -25C in the morning, only +13C in the shop. Dang new infrared heater is not up to the task at -25C! Brrrrr...

PM sent for the lighting parts. thanks

Given the shock compression loads on these things driving on rotted pavement, it's not much wonder they don't survive long. Go back to nice new stock bushings. You'll appreciated the less percusive ride quality and not likely notice any handling difference.

I think you have the operating intention correct. Closes as the water warms. I have a couple of spares here, no idea if they work either. I'll dig up a couple and see if they work or respond to some CLR like you're trying.

It will work. You will have to swap the guts and face of the 280 gauge into the 240 housing. The housing are different and mount in the dash differently. Other than that the 280 speedo will read just fine.

I might help us all understand what condition car you're looking for if you wouldn't mind picking between these two cars as your preferred starting point. 1. Car is all original, complete, low miles (10-30k), only minor wear to most components. Rust free. Paint is fine as is. Everything works. Comes at high price. Series 1 car, $30-40K. Series 2, $25-30K. Less than $5k to bring car to near 300 pt perfection. 2. Car is 95% original, missing items easily available. Low rust, medium mileage. Paint and body needs to be redone, minor rust handled, as expected with age and usage. Has had some simple practical upgrades to brakes, suspension, electrical. Series 1 car. Rare color combination. Nothing done that can't be undone easily to pure stock. Running, driving, insured, safe everything works. Price is lower, $12-15K but needs time and money into restoration to make it really nice like #1.

Good luck drilling it. Possible with the right bit, but slave cylinders are pretty cheap on Rockauto, like $10-$12. Just get the one that has the fixedad length rod. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=484886&cc=1209260&jnid=436&jpid=12