zKars

Nice tool. And well made. It's not new however. Lee Valley "invented" (copied?") one first. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=59452&cat=1,43456

Nice! This system does seem to a pretty good comprimise of price size and function when a full size hoist won't fit. Carl, do you find the cross bars that link the left and right halves get in the way when the lift is "up"? They are conveniently hidden in those shots. Are they easy to remove if you "had to"? They sure seem like they'd be right in the way of the diff crossmember and maybe the trans/engine connection point. Maybe if you could post a shot from underneath with the lift up to show where they are positioned it would help clarify. And did you have to use "that" Z in the shots? It's hard to concentrate on the lift! My eyes keep wandering all over that body, ohhhh baby.....

Never seen them on anyone's site. I think I have one in the bin, maybe its better than yours, but not likely by much... Steve at http://www.240zrubberparts.com/ is making such stuff, maybe you can convince him to add those to his collection, but he is concentrating on 240 parts pretty much exclusively.

Definitely move your 76 wiring and instruments over to the 77 dash frame. There are significant wiring changes in almost every year. Not worth the hassle trying to get everything sorted out. That said, all of the gauges in the 77 dash will work fine, but for a variety of reasons, like keeping the ODO to keep mileage continuity, you should likely just swap it all over.

And it is all part of the strut, can't replace just the spindle. Is it the threads that are screwed up or the outer bearing seat? Hard to tell from the picture.

Don't have to be too gentle. Couple of persuasive "taps" sideways with rubber hammer should break it free. You just have old sticky gasket syndrome.

Search google for "Brake line Clips"

You CAN do it. Harbour frieght I bet has hog ring pliers and rings cheap. The post that Steve mentions seems very detailed if I remember it right. Saw what seems like a great trick on CatSkinz site a couple of weeks ago about pulling new upholstery over the sticky new seat foam. Guy said put a trash bag on it to make a slippery condom then just tear it out/off once the cover is on. Seems like a great idea! Never tried it. good luck!

Just be extremely careful to ensure you get 74-76 door panels. The 77-78 will not fit your car. The single biggest giveaway difference is the distance from the hole where the lock button sticks through on top to the back edge of the panel. 74-76 is about 5-6", the 77-78 are 9". The back edge of the 77-78 panel is also at a much steeper angle than the earlier ones. Looking at zcarclassics little ebay add there, they have some those super rare 69-74 flat top SU's or sale, so be EXTRA careful.

Finally, some pictures. Had to find these at -18C this morning with a stiff wind.. Here is a regular regulator from a 74-76 260/280. Note the deep thickness of the door mount flange area, ~3/4". The 240 regulators have a much shallower flange area, more like 1/4" Other wise they are the appear very much the same. Other than the improved plastic backing disks on the ends of the scissor arms. 240's have little crappier ones that are commonly broken... You can use a 240 regulator on a 280 door if you use a couple of washers at the four mount positions to space the regulator back to the same position that this larger flange has. Using a 280 reg in a 240 door is more problematic. There are also diiferences in the two little u-channel tracks on the window itself that the reg rollers move in between 240/280. One of them have shorter channels. If you mix up windows and regulators, you might find your window falling off the tracks! The big SS frame that the glass seats in when rolled up are also different 240-280. The mount points are different. Just try to put one in the other's door and you'll drive your self crazy trying to get all the 6x1 bolts in. They seem so close to lining up, but they really don't.... Clearly they were trying to make the windows work a bit better (or clear the bigger intrusion bars or something) so they had to tweak all the components just enough to confuse the hell out of all of us guys trying to get stuff to work 40 years later. The 77-78 regulators, glass, guide channels and window frame are all totally different. Does not fit or work in anyother door. Too bad, they are far far superior to the early stuff. Some day when I have time I do a proper picture tutorial of all the differences.

77-78 are totally diff from the earlier ones. 75-76 are the same. I will definitely send you a picture to be sure its the correct one. Sorry I didn't read this last night.

You can disconnect (then short them together? Not sure if they're normally open or closed...) those two free wires from the key switch that tell the thing when the key is "in" and at least fool that side of the equation. Like buckling the seat belt behind you to get past that interlock cause that belt drives you crazy....

I defintely have one if you need it. It's like new. Came from a 76. $40 + shipping is fine. Remember that the 240 regulators are very similar but not the same, The 280 regs are deeper/thicker where they mount to the door (3/4 vs ~1/4").

Fine. Stomp all over our compulsion to be overly helpful... Rx7 in a heartbeat....

I have a Facet 60SV in my Z. It is equivalent in appearance to the Nismo one. I can hear it with the engine off, but just barely. Nice quiet pumping sound. I find that all the "bigger" pumps I've tried are very noisy which I attribute to air cavitation from not being able to pump at or near their rated volume without a proper return system. There is no reason for any electic pump that is moving pure fluid (not air) at normal volumes to make hardly any noise other than standard electic motor humm.. If its making noise, its not moving anything but air as it re-circulates within its own pressure relief cavity (if so equiped) and letting you know it! I have the usual fears of the quaity (reads life expectancy) of the facet pump I have, I am extremely tempted to eat the cost and treat my Z to a proper made in Japan Nismo pump. Youz gets what youz pays for in this case I think...

This is the best electric pump if you are interested in OEM quality and suitability http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISMO-Electric-Fuel-Pump-DATSUN-510-1200-24 0Z-B10-280Z-B110-S110-120Y-Nissan-/221407112643?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item338ce46dc3&vxp=mtr

Hang on. I'm reading ceggs11's first post again and now I'm not sure which bolts he's talking about. There is no one bolt that passes through or into the Strut, Ball joint and control arm. The ball joint is connected flat to the control arm with two 8mm and two longer 10mm bolts. The two 10's also capture the end of the T/C rod. New ball joints usually come with these four bolts. Perhaps this solve your problem and get you new ball joints at the same time. The Ball joint is connected to the steering knuckle with a tapered end of the ball joint post and a castle nut. The strut is connected to the steering knuckle with the 12 mm bolts from below I refer too above. All of the vendors that sell bump stop spacers manage to find good quality 8x1.25, 10x1.25 and 12x1.25 hardware. There are several vendors on line, McMaster Carr, BelMetric, Fastenal, Wurth etc. The only bolts maybe worth getting OEM's of are the shoulder bolts that are 12x1.25x30's. If you really want an OEM bolts, I have some.... They called Kevin Kostner "Dances with Wolves". They would have called me "buckets of rusty bolts"...

CanTechZ Now that's good to hear! Thanks for the personal feedback about Fibrenew. I had another purely local outfit (CRTechniques) do a small dash crack repair 5-6 years ago that was perfect, invisible, and still looks the same, but it wasn't cheap, like $150 or so for a 2" long crack. I brought them the dash too. I'll maybe have a fibrenew guy come look at a couple of others I have in similar shape and see if it makes sense to do the repairs that way rather than attempt the usual Foam/SEM product approach.

If quiet is the goal, then a new stock mechanical pump is the best IMHO. No electrical, turns its self on, was always meant to be there anyway....

Fibre New has been around a while as well http://www.fibrenew.com/

I have this tool and use it extensively. It works like magic. Makes using the cheap harbor freight/Princess Auto POS feel like a toy. The one time I had to use it on a car to repair a broken brake line was a pain, as it relys on being clamped in a vise. The copper/nickel alloy brake line is magical as well. The stuff that Fedhill sells is priced really well, and it was all I used until one day I ran out in the middle of a job. Called around and found an outfit in town (Greggs Distributing) that stocks some of the BrakeQuip tools and lines (they also make SS braided and standard brake lines to order), including their version of the Cunifer soft line. It was even softer and easier to work with than the FedHill stuff. It was more expensive, like x2....

Oh no you two, don't be tempting me. This winter is filled with other kinds of Datsun fun. The square and homely kind!

It's little wonder that your paranoia has been peaked given that you've had dealings with a body shop recently! So he's looking for a Z mechanic eh? Wonder if I could commute? My wife works for WestJet, must be 15 flights a day from Calgary to Toronto, should be able to work something out.... Guess I need to retire first too...

I completely agree with the responses. You are in no danger of any legal problems. He is simply mad at you. If he were in fact an honourable person, he would be doing everything he can to satisfy your concerns. Run, don't walk away.

oh baby....