zKars

Do I have to give my speech again? You know, the one about "support our vendors and be thankful someone gives a damn to take these risks to support our hobby?" My soap box is right here, no problem stepping up and doing it again.

I've purchased the K&N washable filters for the air box and found them to be just a bit too thick with the stock gaskets on the housing. This is good and bad news. The K&N filters have rubber top and bottom rings, and thus if the gaskets are removed, the filters fit (and seal) just right! So, if your stock rubbers are shot, remove them and use the K&N filters. It's an E-2910 http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?prod=E-2910 To no-ones surprise I'm sure, I have one good used internal gasket for a 70-72 filter housing hanging around if anyone wants it.

clipsandfasteners.com has some. Search for M6 SEMS or M8 SEMS and you'll find some goodies. SEMS is short for ASSEMBLED, its the keyword for your searches for sure.

Greasing bearings or ball joints or steering racks is not a perfect science. There is no flow path through and past each set of bearing cups, other than through a seal, and when you break a seal, any more you add goes straight out that seal. The best you can do is put JUST enough in until just before it breaks a seal, which is of course impossible to do. Like bolt torque. Torque it until it breaks then back it off a quarter turn. Do the best you can and add the least you dare. BTW, grease does not move in a joint due to motion or heat. It is designed to do exactly the opposite, stay in place. It only flows when frictional forces at the metal contact surfaces get the pressure/temp up enough to make it move/flow to lube the surrounding area. yes, putting grease in your front wheel bearing cover/caps to supply extra grease if the bearings run dry is silly. It just sits there in the cap.

Merry Christmas gang! Hope Santa gets you-all some Z happiness!

Nice tool. And well made. It's not new however. Lee Valley "invented" (copied?") one first. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=59452&cat=1,43456

Nice! This system does seem to a pretty good comprimise of price size and function when a full size hoist won't fit. Carl, do you find the cross bars that link the left and right halves get in the way when the lift is "up"? They are conveniently hidden in those shots. Are they easy to remove if you "had to"? They sure seem like they'd be right in the way of the diff crossmember and maybe the trans/engine connection point. Maybe if you could post a shot from underneath with the lift up to show where they are positioned it would help clarify. And did you have to use "that" Z in the shots? It's hard to concentrate on the lift! My eyes keep wandering all over that body, ohhhh baby.....

Never seen them on anyone's site. I think I have one in the bin, maybe its better than yours, but not likely by much... Steve at http://www.240zrubberparts.com/ is making such stuff, maybe you can convince him to add those to his collection, but he is concentrating on 240 parts pretty much exclusively.

Definitely move your 76 wiring and instruments over to the 77 dash frame. There are significant wiring changes in almost every year. Not worth the hassle trying to get everything sorted out. That said, all of the gauges in the 77 dash will work fine, but for a variety of reasons, like keeping the ODO to keep mileage continuity, you should likely just swap it all over.

And it is all part of the strut, can't replace just the spindle. Is it the threads that are screwed up or the outer bearing seat? Hard to tell from the picture.

Don't have to be too gentle. Couple of persuasive "taps" sideways with rubber hammer should break it free. You just have old sticky gasket syndrome.

Search google for "Brake line Clips"

You CAN do it. Harbour frieght I bet has hog ring pliers and rings cheap. The post that Steve mentions seems very detailed if I remember it right. Saw what seems like a great trick on CatSkinz site a couple of weeks ago about pulling new upholstery over the sticky new seat foam. Guy said put a trash bag on it to make a slippery condom then just tear it out/off once the cover is on. Seems like a great idea! Never tried it. good luck!

Just be extremely careful to ensure you get 74-76 door panels. The 77-78 will not fit your car. The single biggest giveaway difference is the distance from the hole where the lock button sticks through on top to the back edge of the panel. 74-76 is about 5-6", the 77-78 are 9". The back edge of the 77-78 panel is also at a much steeper angle than the earlier ones. Looking at zcarclassics little ebay add there, they have some those super rare 69-74 flat top SU's or sale, so be EXTRA careful.

Finally, some pictures. Had to find these at -18C this morning with a stiff wind.. Here is a regular regulator from a 74-76 260/280. Note the deep thickness of the door mount flange area, ~3/4". The 240 regulators have a much shallower flange area, more like 1/4" Other wise they are the appear very much the same. Other than the improved plastic backing disks on the ends of the scissor arms. 240's have little crappier ones that are commonly broken... You can use a 240 regulator on a 280 door if you use a couple of washers at the four mount positions to space the regulator back to the same position that this larger flange has. Using a 280 reg in a 240 door is more problematic. There are also diiferences in the two little u-channel tracks on the window itself that the reg rollers move in between 240/280. One of them have shorter channels. If you mix up windows and regulators, you might find your window falling off the tracks! The big SS frame that the glass seats in when rolled up are also different 240-280. The mount points are different. Just try to put one in the other's door and you'll drive your self crazy trying to get all the 6x1 bolts in. They seem so close to lining up, but they really don't.... Clearly they were trying to make the windows work a bit better (or clear the bigger intrusion bars or something) so they had to tweak all the components just enough to confuse the hell out of all of us guys trying to get stuff to work 40 years later. The 77-78 regulators, glass, guide channels and window frame are all totally different. Does not fit or work in anyother door. Too bad, they are far far superior to the early stuff. Some day when I have time I do a proper picture tutorial of all the differences.

77-78 are totally diff from the earlier ones. 75-76 are the same. I will definitely send you a picture to be sure its the correct one. Sorry I didn't read this last night.

You can disconnect (then short them together? Not sure if they're normally open or closed...) those two free wires from the key switch that tell the thing when the key is "in" and at least fool that side of the equation. Like buckling the seat belt behind you to get past that interlock cause that belt drives you crazy....