Troutman

I recently cracked the breather outlet on the driver side. It was a result of storing too much in the spare tire well (too much weight, thin steel flexing from hitting a bump, hitting the outlet) So my 2 remedy suggestions (aisde from not storing anything in the well ever again) eliminating this outlet Is it possbile to completely remove this vent outlet and seal the hole off leaving only the 2 vent outlets on the top most portion of the tank? spacing the fuel tank I was thinking of using ".250 harder durometer rubber and placing that between the top of the tank and the spare tire well to create more clearance if i choose to leave the outlet. (hopefully this would be thin enough where it wont affect the straps). Any thoughts are appreciated Thanks Todd

im curious to know if anyone has purchased the cross flow radiator from MSA http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCLC04/16-7017 or tried this one found on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/All-Aluminum-1970-75-Datsun-240z-260z-Radiator-110AA_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem350134572228QQitemZ350134572228QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories if so, what are thoughts on cooling ability, quality, etc.. thanks

thanks for the replies. (ive been out of town for a few days so i hadnt had a chance to check back here). im going to machine a spacer hopefully this weekend and go that route. now do i need to weld it to the rails? if i go with a bolt with a longer shank height will i be ok? thanks to answer the other questions.. - the bar was touching while the suspension was weighted. (on the ground) - stock pump - motor mounts are new (2.5 years old)

i flipped it just to check and its into the crank pulley if i do...

i discovered that when the suspension of the car is weighted, that the front sway bar is resting on the oil pump mount bolt. (Its an MSA bar) has anyone ever had this problem? did they send the wrong bar? i was thinking of machining a spacer to go between the mount bracket and the frame, or possibly "scalloping" the bar slightly for clearance. i plan on calling MSA tomorrow..

im not trying to add a 2nd gauge just for the sake of having a gauge under my hood. i have invested thousands of dollars and hours into this car and i am beyond paranoid, anal, and OCD about it. (basically my house sits in someone else's garage). the reason i wanted the 2nd guage under the hood is so i can visually monitor a more accurate engine temp under the hood, instead of relying on a 35 year old gauge where "good" is "somewhere in the middle". to sum it up, it will help me sleep at night having the reassurance of knowing at exactly what temp my fans kick on and off. i am a nut-job, its my handicap and i have to live with it. im not trying to start a flame war between people on here, i just wanted to know if i could tap into the signal coming out of the sending unit that is used by the stock gauge inside the greenhouse without getting false readings on both this and the new gauge under the hood. im by no means and electrical genius, so i didnt know if this would even work, and if it did, would the 2 gauges be able to share the same signal and both be accurate

not sure if this belongs in this forum or not, but here goes. im looking at running an additonal water temp gauge in my 240z (w/ carb' L28) under the hood. i am currently runnng 2 electirc fans on a thermostatic switch, and would like to get a more accurate reading on when to have them turn on. im having trouble locating a mech. gauge that will work with my thermostat housing, (the port is too small, and the probe on the gauge is too long.) so i was wondering if i could wire in an electric gauge under the hood and tap into the wire going from the sending unit in the thermo housing to the stock gauge inside the car? im not sure if this would screw up the signal going to the stock gauge ...or even work for that matter. Thanks Todd

im currently upgrading my fuel system (braided lines -6 /fittings) on my webers. i have found a few different fittings but they are all in red/blue finish. i cant find any in a natural or black finish that fit m12x1.5. has anyone found a banjo or inlet fitting that is not red/blue? i figured i would check the board first before i start calling the manufacturers directly. thanks todd

i couldnt find any documentation on how much fluid the 78 5 pd took. i found other posts that said the 5peeds took 2.25 qts. and like an idiot i didnt get the car level and add it till it came out the fill hole.... i just put the 2.25qts in. first thing i have ever half assed in this car...:disappoin

you are exactly right... i decided to go grab an old bottle just after i posted this.... guy sold me the wrong stuff there is a huge paragraph on the back of the bottle..(which i didnt read) 2nd to last line "this product is not designed for use in most manual transmission, since the extreme slipperiness may cause gear clash" i know what ill be doing tomorrow.. thanks for the reply

i recently changed the fluid in the trans (5spd out of a 78) in a 240z with redline 75-90. i used roughly over 2 quarts. i took the car for a drive and for the first time ever i grinded a 3rd to 2nd shift.... no big deal, but then it happend 3 more times. either by engine breaking or for acceleration out of a corner. i have never grinded a single gear in the car ever. (i do not know what type of fluid was in the trans, but i t did seem thinner.) now this may be just a strange conincidence, but something doesnt seem right. So, is this something?, or just completely ironic? Thanks

thanks for the info....much appreciated -Todd

thanks. the bimmer is being crushed today..i paid a $100 for it..drove it almost 10k miles and got a $100 for it..and i kept the tail lights.....the only thing i managed not to smash on the car

im getting ready to install my new R200 in my 73 240, and im not sure which way to position the mount. i know as soon as i raise the diff up there id find out, but i'd i rather only have to do it once. in some photos if seen side "B" facing the front of the car on 240s with the r180, and in some phots ive seen side "A" face the front of the car on the ZX with the R200. i havent seen any photos of the mount on the R200 in a 240. it would make sense to have side A face the front because of the scalloped-out area for clearance to the mating flanges, but im not sure. so if someone could help out, id appreciate it. thanks todd

i have a 73, and i took my rear bumper to be chromed. well after blasting the inside, and stipping, there isnt much left of the center section. so my question is, will a 70-72 center section work with my 73 end pieces that i already have chromed? im not using any of the rubber strips or the "bumperettes" (the u-shaped pieces). thanks todd