Troutman

I recently cracked the breather outlet on the driver side. It was a result of storing too much in the spare tire well (too much weight, thin steel flexing from hitting a bump, hitting the outlet) So my 2 remedy suggestions (aisde from not storing anything in the well ever again) eliminating this outlet Is it possbile to completely remove this vent outlet and seal the hole off leaving only the 2 vent outlets on the top most portion of the tank? spacing the fuel tank I was thinking of using ".250 harder durometer rubber and placing that between the top of the tank and the spare tire well to create more clearance if i choose to leave the outlet. (hopefully this would be thin enough where it wont affect the straps). Any thoughts are appreciated Thanks Todd

im curious to know if anyone has purchased the cross flow radiator from MSA http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCLC04/16-7017 or tried this one found on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/All-Aluminum-1970-75-Datsun-240z-260z-Radiator-110AA_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem350134572228QQitemZ350134572228QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories if so, what are thoughts on cooling ability, quality, etc.. thanks

thanks for the replies. (ive been out of town for a few days so i hadnt had a chance to check back here). im going to machine a spacer hopefully this weekend and go that route. now do i need to weld it to the rails? if i go with a bolt with a longer shank height will i be ok? thanks to answer the other questions.. - the bar was touching while the suspension was weighted. (on the ground) - stock pump - motor mounts are new (2.5 years old)

i flipped it just to check and its into the crank pulley if i do...

i discovered that when the suspension of the car is weighted, that the front sway bar is resting on the oil pump mount bolt. (Its an MSA bar) has anyone ever had this problem? did they send the wrong bar? i was thinking of machining a spacer to go between the mount bracket and the frame, or possibly "scalloping" the bar slightly for clearance. i plan on calling MSA tomorrow..

im not trying to add a 2nd gauge just for the sake of having a gauge under my hood. i have invested thousands of dollars and hours into this car and i am beyond paranoid, anal, and OCD about it. (basically my house sits in someone else's garage). the reason i wanted the 2nd guage under the hood is so i can visually monitor a more accurate engine temp under the hood, instead of relying on a 35 year old gauge where "good" is "somewhere in the middle". to sum it up, it will help me sleep at night having the reassurance of knowing at exactly what temp my fans kick on and off. i am a nut-job, its my handicap and i have to live with it. im not trying to start a flame war between people on here, i just wanted to know if i could tap into the signal coming out of the sending unit that is used by the stock gauge inside the greenhouse without getting false readings on both this and the new gauge under the hood. im by no means and electrical genius, so i didnt know if this would even work, and if it did, would the 2 gauges be able to share the same signal and both be accurate

not sure if this belongs in this forum or not, but here goes. im looking at running an additonal water temp gauge in my 240z (w/ carb' L28) under the hood. i am currently runnng 2 electirc fans on a thermostatic switch, and would like to get a more accurate reading on when to have them turn on. im having trouble locating a mech. gauge that will work with my thermostat housing, (the port is too small, and the probe on the gauge is too long.) so i was wondering if i could wire in an electric gauge under the hood and tap into the wire going from the sending unit in the thermo housing to the stock gauge inside the car? im not sure if this would screw up the signal going to the stock gauge ...or even work for that matter. Thanks Todd

im currently upgrading my fuel system (braided lines -6 /fittings) on my webers. i have found a few different fittings but they are all in red/blue finish. i cant find any in a natural or black finish that fit m12x1.5. has anyone found a banjo or inlet fitting that is not red/blue? i figured i would check the board first before i start calling the manufacturers directly. thanks todd

i couldnt find any documentation on how much fluid the 78 5 pd took. i found other posts that said the 5peeds took 2.25 qts. and like an idiot i didnt get the car level and add it till it came out the fill hole.... i just put the 2.25qts in. first thing i have ever half assed in this car...:disappoin

you are exactly right... i decided to go grab an old bottle just after i posted this.... guy sold me the wrong stuff there is a huge paragraph on the back of the bottle..(which i didnt read) 2nd to last line "this product is not designed for use in most manual transmission, since the extreme slipperiness may cause gear clash" i know what ill be doing tomorrow.. thanks for the reply

i recently changed the fluid in the trans (5spd out of a 78) in a 240z with redline 75-90. i used roughly over 2 quarts. i took the car for a drive and for the first time ever i grinded a 3rd to 2nd shift.... no big deal, but then it happend 3 more times. either by engine breaking or for acceleration out of a corner. i have never grinded a single gear in the car ever. (i do not know what type of fluid was in the trans, but i t did seem thinner.) now this may be just a strange conincidence, but something doesnt seem right. So, is this something?, or just completely ironic? Thanks

thanks for the info....much appreciated -Todd

thanks. the bimmer is being crushed today..i paid a $100 for it..drove it almost 10k miles and got a $100 for it..and i kept the tail lights.....the only thing i managed not to smash on the car

im getting ready to install my new R200 in my 73 240, and im not sure which way to position the mount. i know as soon as i raise the diff up there id find out, but i'd i rather only have to do it once. in some photos if seen side "B" facing the front of the car on 240s with the r180, and in some phots ive seen side "A" face the front of the car on the ZX with the R200. i havent seen any photos of the mount on the R200 in a 240. it would make sense to have side A face the front because of the scalloped-out area for clearance to the mating flanges, but im not sure. so if someone could help out, id appreciate it. thanks todd

i have a 73, and i took my rear bumper to be chromed. well after blasting the inside, and stipping, there isnt much left of the center section. so my question is, will a 70-72 center section work with my 73 end pieces that i already have chromed? im not using any of the rubber strips or the "bumperettes" (the u-shaped pieces). thanks todd

I sprung a leak at the outlet elbow on my fuel tank last night. It was cracked somewhere and somewhat repaired by a previous owner with a gob of JB weld. I managed to hit it while cleaning the underside in prep for paint.. I’m curious to know if this is a 2” (roughly)elbow that attaches to the outer shell of the tank, or is this elbow is the end of a longer line that goes down in tank? I’m trying to get an idea of what would be necessary in order to fix it. I plan on dropping the tank this weekend or coming week, and siphoning a full tank of gas. Thanks Todd

thanks for the info. i got an email from Jerry at zrace who i got my a-arms from and he ordered a few sets, and said he'd be getting back to me on the price. after teraing apart the rear drums last night, i going to be completely redoing those as well, shoes, wheels cylinder, springs... i havent done much investigating on prices, but from what i found for wheel cylinder prices wasnt very good. this was after a few rounds or serious degreasing.. -todd

thanks for the info.. i'll give it a try tomorrow. i didnt get a chance to look into it today, spent the evening removing disassembling the rear drums and inspecting the bearings. so now i need all the drum hardware as well.... -Todd

does anyone know where i can find new clips and pins for the toyota calipers s12+8? toyota dealer no longer carries them, and your basic auto part stores have no idea thanks

thanks for the reply. i am currently running a single circuit as well. i have an autometer 0~15psi 1.5" dia gauge that i plan on using in the one outlet.. my buddy is running the same regulator/guage in this 31 roadster and its working fine. i just need to determine if i want to leave the fuel line in the current location or re-route it along the back of the engine -Todd

im curious to know if any is using a Holley AFPR? i am currently running a regulator similar to this one with bradided lines and hose clamps. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3339P&mfrcode=SCT&mfrpartnumber=2517 i wanted to upgrade to something a little more accurate, reliable, and not as easy to adjust (somebody at a car show adjsuting it to 1.5 lbs, and the hiway = not good). http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HLY%2D12%2D804&N=700+400178+115&autoview=sku im currently running 3 40dcoe webers on an 83 L28 in a 240. any thoughts etc.. would be appreciated Thanks Todd

John, im an industrial designer as well. ive been with Buell Motorcycles in East Troy WI for almost 4 years now, fresh out of U of Cincinnati in 2002. Do you have your own consulting firm? -Todd

thanks for the welcome everyone. shakey, is the show at the safro delaership in delafield? im not too familiar with the area, so if you have any info on the location and start time, i would appreciate it. i have tenative plans on sunday, but i'll see if i can make it out -Todd

I just want to quickly introduce myself and avoid making this sound like a personal ad. My name is Todd Troutman, im 27 and i have a 73 Z. It currently has a few minor issues that im trying to address, so expect some new threads. I currently work as a designer for Buell Motorcycle Co. in East Troy WI, so im around bikes constantly. In my free time im either playing in the garage or throwing weights in the basement. feel free to ask any questions. -Todd

I am having some issues with the shifter and I was hoping someone may provide some insight before I start tearing into this. I recently purchased a 73 Z that has a 5spd tranny out of a 77-79, (I believe it to be a 78). I’m thinking that the prior owner may have used the shifter from the original 4spd. There are indications on the lever that it was heated and it is definitely bent The problems I am having are 1. there is an area to the left of 1st and 2nd that the shifter can go into, and you can shift up and down., and be in this “dead area” Because of this, you sort of have to “find” 1st gear since there is no stop. 2. once you think you have found 1st gear it is sometimes rather difficult to get it into gear. This may be the result of not actually knowing where 1st is (I have held up traffic a couple of times). Sometimes it goes in without a problem and sometimes you try 10 times with effort before it goes. There is no grinding or anything of that nature. Once in first, the shift from 1st to 2nd is kind of notchy, 2-3 seems fine, as well as 3-4, and 4-5. This being my first Z, I am not a ninja of all the mechanics. So, am I possibly missing some stop plate, and also have worn bushings? If so, with it possibly being a 4spd shifter in a 5spd tranny, which bushings do they get if the bushings are different from the 4-5spd trannys? I have tried contacting the prior owner and have not gotten a reply back, so im not 100% sure that it’s a 4 in a 5, im just taking a guess. Is there any way to tell? Thanks for the help, Todd