astrohog

Motor is out!!

Really hard to tell from that picture, but appears satin to me?

I've searched and searched but could not find an answer to this. I am in the process of a refresh and sent the original, stock radiator to the local rad shop for hot tanking and minor leak repair. When I picked it up, the shop had given it a fresh coat of gloss black paint. I assume that the factory finish was satin black? Anybody know for sure?

All good advice guys, thank-you! I'm definitely keeping this car as original as possible, adding only period correct mods (BRE spoiler and spook), or things that can be returned to original easy enough. I will keep the original transmission even if I decide to go 5 speed. If I go 5 speed, I thought I would use a "competition style" shifter so I wouldn't have to cut the tunnel, but nobody here mentioned that. Is it not a good option?. I have an L28 turbo sitting on a pallet that I would like to someday build and drop in, but I would keep and pickle the original motor if I did that. My concern is not about keeping it as valuable as possible, but keeping it original and enjoying it as a reliable driver for little road trips and cars and coffee meets. I've never been one that dreams of a concourse restoration that sits as a museum piece. Cool, iconic cars are cool partly because of the driving experience, seems a waste to put on a shelf and ogle. Since I will not be able to add fluid and drive it again before the "resto" is done, I think I will be trying to source another trans and/or open up this one and hope that whatever needs replaced is available.

Okay, Zed Head, point well taken! But that only changes my options to sourcing a "B" box, trying to cobble together a rebuild kit for my "A" box, or sourcing a 5 speed and re-building it. Any sage advice NOW? 😆

My car is a numbers matching, very original 1971 (12/70 build) series 1 240Z. I'm getting ready to pull motor and trans before sending it to the body shop for some work and new paint. Motor was running fine, but I am going to strip it and have it rebuilt before re-installing it. Transmission was okay, but it was grinding going in AND out of 2nd gear. I had not changed the trans oil in years, and it was a bit funky when I drained it in prep of removal. I'm just now finding that the F4W71A is not supported anymore and was not the best gearbox to begin with. I've read where good quality gear oil has "fixed" some grinding problems, and I also found where 2nd gear synchro's may be available for my box. I've read everything I can find on this subject and I am still stuck on what to do. Bite the bullet and buy a rebuilt close-ratio 5 speed from California Datsun for $2,500.00? Source a F4W71B? Try to cobble together bearings, gaskets and synchro and attempt to rebuild mine? I've always thought I wanted the 5 speed, but they were much easier to find and a whole lot cheaper a decade ago! Any sage advice from all of you guru's?

List some of those up on BAT, it would elicit comment gold! 🤣

Thanks Steve and Terrapin! I was able to unplug the pigtail and remove the fuse panel today. Got the shift lever removed. Looks like engine and trans will be out next weekend!

Would an induction heater be preferable over the old torch method?

Well, I have now officially disconnected everything from the engine and trans, except for the motor mount bolts and the one trans mount bolt. Engine hoist and engine stand are at the ready. I think I'll get the engine and trans pulled next weekend and get the trans split from the engine and off to the trans shop for rebuild. Once I get the engine on the stand, I'll have my work cut out for me just getting the intake and exhaust manifolds off! Once I get the engine stripped, I'll be crating it up and sending it off to Datsun Spirit for a nice little rebuild. Next chore will be stripping the engine compartment, removing doors, fenders and rear hatch, then off to the body shop. I've dreamed of this day for a long time and I am pretty darn excited. After rising two sons and seeing them through college, I can't tell you how many times I put this refresh on hold due to life's other priorities and now it is becoming a reality. Radiator will be back from the radiator shop tomorrow, looking spiffy, all repaired with a fresh coat of paint, and my brake booster should be done at Harmon Classic Brakes in a week. I think I'll order new bumpers, fuel/brake and clutch hardlines and BRE spook and spoiler this evening. I guess I am committed now! (or maybe my wife SHOULD commit me now!)

Looks like the days of finding anything in the sub $10K range were gone a couple years ago.

Here's an interesting 1970 for sale in Canada. Interesting hood...... https://www.facebook.com/commerce/listing/1310944736381977/?media_id=0&ref=share_attachment

Thanks Steve, I'll have to take a look when I get back to the car, that should help in removing the console! I may have to consider that upgraded panel from MSA as well. Jeff

@Terrapin Z; is there an actual plug that unplugs the entire fuse panel up in the dash somewhere?

OK, I know I am probably missing something simple, but I was trying to remove the center console (1971 240Z, 12/70 build) in order to disconnect the shifter. I removed the 2 flat head screws from the rear of the console, the one screw in the coin scoop tray and the two pan head screws that secure the fuse panel. Removed the TINY set screw that holds the choke ever on and the console is loose, but I cannot figure out how to slide it past the fuse panel. There seems to be a metal strap that spans the width of the console (under the fuse panel) that the fuse panel cannot slide over the top of without interfering with the sloped back of the console. I just realized I probably should have taken a picture or two, but was getting pretty tired and frustrated. Any gurus who know the trick?