astrohog

thanks all for your input! Upon closer inspection, I realized the pistons in the front calipers were stuck and I replaced with new and pads, and what a difference!! I guess I can hold off on the booster and master for a while now! Thanks again!! Regards, Jeff

I am thinking of removing the "smog rail" (right term??) from my stock '71 240Z. It looks like I will have to plug the holes in the manifold with pipe plugs. Anybody know what size/thread plugs I will need? It looks like all the fittings are pretty rusty/corroded, can I expect them to be so stubborn as to cause problems?? I am planning on swapping this motor next spring, so if this is a tough job, I may just wait until I pull the motor or replace the headers down the road. Any help??? Regards, Astrohog

Yes it is!!! The current owner was trying to convince me it wouldn't be a bad project, but this car is pretty much a basket case!!! I guess I do need to add that, yes, it COULD be done (and others probably have started with worse, 26th, etc..), but what a chore!!!! I figure it is worth all of $400.00, as it has the 2400 valve cover, the tail lights are good, wiring harness intact, original steering wheel, heater panel cover is good, decent 5 slot mags, interior plastic finishing panels, badges, diamond vinyl (can you remove and re-use diamond vinyl??), clock/gauges, mirrors, AND a running engine!!! Just don't know if I have it in me to strip a car here in my driveway as the last few waning days of summer are running out here in the Pacific N.W.!!! It rained like CRAZY the last two days!!!!! Regards, Astro

tool boxes are there, but p.o. had cut holes in them and mounted speakers!!! rear hatch vent covers are....mine! (sorry) looks like all of us are looking for similar bits!! I was gonna keep the console switch and emblems! antenna was broken I did nor check the seatbelts, but assume they are fine as well as the seat adjusters. interior color is black. I will let you all know if I end up with the car as I am still riding the fence. And it will still depend on if he accepts my low offer! Regards, Jeff

HLS30-91xx. Looked at it yesterday, wrote serial # on my hand, washed hand.... Was at work, should have taken pictures.... Anyway, it is RUSTY!!! BUT.........It is a very complete, original car!! Interior is okay. Clock works!!! Emblems are good, dash has one or two cracks. It runs!! (Don;t know if I would want to drive it as is, but it does run!!) I am debating picking it up and parting it out, but thought I might throw this out there if there was anyone that wants the whole car. The gentleman is asking $800.00. I should mention that it is VERY RUSTY!! When the guy that is selling it went to sit in it and start it, the seat came through the floor!! The rear hatch is rusted through at the spot welds, and the roof has quarter-size rust holes in it. Glass is intact and in good shape!!. Let me know if there is any interest. I am thinking specific parts. I can buy it and pull any bits you may be needing. Regards, Astro

Carl, I was hoping that since you did see this post that you would at least have help confirm/deny the original intent of my question!!:laugh: As long as my thread is being hijacked by the rust experts....I live in Bellingham, WA. We have a saltwater bay/harbor here in town...lots of boating here and in the San Juans!! Unless your car is being SPRAYED with salty seawater, or live in an area where they SALT the winter roads (and you drive in it!!!), I doubt there will be much (if any) acceleration of rust as any other area of the country. I do know that we get MANY MANY days of rain here in the Pacific NW, so much so that (along with the evergreen needles and leaves, etc. that get stuck in all the "usual" places) our cars can stay wet and probably don't dry out but for a couple of months a year (this is assuming a daily-driven car, even if it is garaged). Hoping for some more info on the whole "damaged Z" rumor. Anyone?? Regards, Astrohog

I'll be there!!.....I did not make ferry reservations, so it looks like I'll be driving to Edmonds first!!!! Hope to meet many of you there as the weather is looking OUTSTANDING!!! Astrohog

I have a lead on a 1970 240Z. I was told that it was a "special" car that was one of many on a ship coming from the factory that sustained some damage due to a storm and seawater contaminatiing the cars. Supposedly the damaged cars were sold to a gentleman who was supposed to part them out. The story continues that he didn't part them, rather he sold them. Sounds like a fish story to me to justify the rust?? I will be looking at this car and getting the vin, so I will post info when I have more!! If anyone can substantiate this story or fill in the blanks, etc. , please feel free to do so!! Regards, Astrohog

I am such a procrastinator!!!! (check dates on these posts!) I finally got around to covering my drivers seat and replacing the foam!! Just wanted to share that I found a VERY EASY and relatively inexpensive alternative to the underseat webbing. Believe it or not, I used two-sided (hook on one side, loop on the other side), 2" wide Velcro!! Found it at my LOCAL hardware store. just cut to length, slide through the metal loops on the seat frame, and stick to itself!! If I get it too tight, I can just loosen it up to my liking!!! I actually used 1" wide that I found in my shop to see if it would be strong enough, but I can and will get 2" from the hardwre store (2" is a special-order item). I will try to get pictures when I get the correct width installed. Hope you all find this a handy way to do the webbing!! Regards, Astrohog

Unfortunately I DID mean the timing cover!! Some small grooves worn into it, but not too deep from the looks of it. I have an L28 that I will be swapping next spring, so I just need it to make it until then!!! Astro

Well, I installed the new water pump and all is well now! Thanks for your help all! BTW, I think the source of the sqealing noise was the "rusty growths" on the original cast impeller on the old water pump cutting grooves into the internals of the block!!! Regards, Astrohog

Thanks, Jim. I am trying to keep her as stock as possible, but when it makes sense to upgrade, I will for the most part as long as the upgrade is easily returned to stock if need be. Basically, I want to be able to drive in a spirited manner once in awhile and have the confidence that I have proper braking. I am sure that when working properly the stock brake setup is adequate, but If I have to give my firstborn for an original booster or master cylinder, I would rather just use something available off the shelf as long as it performs adequately. I really don't want to bastardize the Z with parts off other makes of cars as I would like to retain at least a semblence of "originality". I am not a machinist, so I doubt I will bother making a new rod, so, what are my options for a new booster if it turns out I need one? Regards, Jeff

Hi All! I am realizing that my brakes have never been right in the two years of owning my Z. I have only put a few hundred miles on her as I go through the bits and pieces, so it has not been a big issue. Now, things are running good and solid and I MUST get the brakes right! Can anyone direct me as to the "correct" or "preferred" replacements? Not necessarily looking for originals, unless they are still avail. at a reasonable price. Do I just go to the local NAPA and buy what they have available? Thanks again, guys, for any help you may have for me!!!! Regards, Astrohog

Arne, Not to hijack my own thread, but, any chance you will be at the ZCCW Meeting of the MindZ in Port Townsend on the 16th and /or 17th? Astro

Rodger that, E! Your advice is well taken! I have alot of adhesive experience from years of building model airplanes, so I know a little about gluing different materials. This is certainly an application where cured skim coats of adhesive makes a lot of sense, essentially using it as a "contact adhesive". Sounds like I will have one shot at getting it to lay down right that way, but I should be okay if I take my time!! Thanks again for the advice!! I will let y'all know how it turned out soon enough! Regards, Jeff

Thanks, E!! That is what I was thinking, and since I am not ready to take the Z to paint yet (just trying to keep her dry and fume-free!), I ordered up the one-piece. Maybe I will go with the "more-correct" three-piece after I do get her painted. Thanks again, Astro

I am trying to order the outer hatch weatherstripping from MSA. They offer a one-piece unit, or two seperate side pieces and a top piece. Any advice on which one installs and/or actually performs its intended function better? Appreciate any help here!! Regards, Astrohog

I think I figured it out. Checked the coolant level after she cooled off and had to add almost two gallons! I fired her up and (with a flashlight as it is dark here now) looked arounf the water pump where I was seeing steam before. There was a steady little stream of water coming from around the water pump. I am hoping it is just the water pump now, and that I did not do any further damage. I would sure hate to have her down for the count this time of year! Astro

Just took my stock '71 out for a spin. She has been running great and a joy to drive lately!!! I usually do not drive her in the rain, but had to take a little spin tonite in the light sprinkle. A few miles into my drive, (I assume) the alt. belt starts to squeal, so I start to head back home as it was annoying. Halfway home, I notice the temp gauge is just about maxed @ 250!! I pull over and let her cool down until the gauge is strait up and down and make an easy 3 mile drive home. Just as I get to my driveway, the temp. guage is at max again. I shut her down and raise the hood to let her cool down. most of the steam is coming from around the water pump. Could this have been caused by a loose or glazed belt, or could the water pump have gone gunny bag? Is there any easy way to check the water pump by hand? I am writing this as I let her cool enough to go out and check the coolant level. I am hoping I didn't do any damage by driving her hot!! Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Regards, Astrohog

Try CRC "Knocker Loose" it is a copy of Kroil and is available anywhere that sells CRC products. It DOES work as good as Kroil. CRC also has a product out called "Freeze Out" (I think) that is good for "shocking" stubborn parts free. They also have a new version of Knocker Loose that incorporates freeze out with knocker loose! BTW, these products all cost at least 1/2 of what Kano charges for Kroil! Regards, Astrohog

I recently bought a similar one for my '71. I did have to drill out the pin on the hatch side and then drill a slightly larger hole in the 90 deegree mounting bracket so I could put a threaded ball on that end to accept the strut, but it works great! I think I paid under $20.00 for mine at the local NAPA store, though. Hope this helps, Regards, Astrohog

Nobody has thought of this yet...... If nobody restored cars (because you cannot make any money doing it) than there would not be any restored or almost restored cars for the rest of us to purchase....... SO......... Continue on gentlemen, and have FUN doing it!!!!! Now where did I put my tool box and those new parts....... Regards, Astrohog

Okay, I finally got all of the A/C components removed from my '71, now I have a big hole in the fan housing.... Is there a part available to cover this hole, or do I have to make one myself? Anybody that has done this have any advice as to how to go about this? Materials, patterns, etc?? How about finding a new housing or fan unit? are they available? and if so, are they affordable? Thanks for any suggestions!! Regards, Astrohog

UHHHH....look at post #29. $300.00 and so far, very much worth it! Astro