astrohog

No, they are definately NOT aluminum and mine ARE rusted. I do believe it is because of a bad or "pinched" weatherstrip. I am about to tackle what little rust does exist in this car and give her the old POR-15 treatment along with a fresh coat of paint!! Just met with my body/paint guy so he could give me an estimate.........I am gonna have to save alittle while longer (and/or entertain a couple more quotes) but it will all be worth it when she is done!!! Thanks for all of the replies, guys, I do not know how I did not find that part in my searches. I think I will get the ones from Courtesy as I am not doing a complete concourse-quality restore. Regards, Astrohog

Hi All! On my '71 240 on the INSIDE of the door sills, there is a piece of vinyl that lays against the side of the sill and extends downward to the floorboard. On TOP of that is a vinyl-covered metal trim piece that is held in place by 4 or 5 oval-head sheet metal screws. This metal trim piece extends over the frame (where it is spot welded, I believe?) and OVER the aluminum "beauty plate" on the actual door sill (proper term?). I have seen that replacement vinyl strips are available to re-cover the metal trim as they take alot of foot-dragging abuse, but my metal strip is VERY RUSTY and beyond repair. Are the metal pieces available somewhere?? I have searched here and at the usual vendors (MSA, Black Dragon, Datsun Restore, etc.) but all I can find are the cut vinyl pieces, not the whole metal strip. Any help would be great!! Regards, Astrohog

Enigma, Check out this site. This is my buddy who has had both (thought the 20D would be the end-all, but ended up with the 30D shortly thereafter.) His gallery shows pics taken with both and if you contact him, I am sure he would be happy to give you the straight up on both. http://johnvh.smugmug.com/ (Check out the r/c airplane pics!!) most of them were taken at our local flying field where we fly the big stuff!!! 85' wingspans to 141" wingspans!!! all gas powered 2 strokes up to 20 h.p.!! No wonder I can't pump enough money into my Z!! I gotta fly, too!! Regards, Astrohog

I had a similar problem last summer, although mine was a little more extreme, so I am not sure this solution will work for you. My idle would "stick" so high that it would actually keep climbing past 4,000 RPM's and I would eventually have to turn it off before it would redline. What I found was (not sure of all the correct terminology here, so bear with me) that there is some sort of "idle slow return" located on the throttle/carb linkage that is supposed to slow the drop of RPM's during an upshift for a "smoother" shift. When this went bad on my car it gave me fits!! I spoke w/ others here on the forums and locally and I came to the conclusion that it could be completely removed with no ill effects. Hopefully some other more experienced members can jump in here with the correct terminology and maybe even some pictures. Not sure if this is the cause of your problem, but it worked for me! Good Luck! Regards, Astrohog

yes, I added it to the calendar along with a link to the Z Car Club of Washington website where there is more info as well as pictures from previous events. Regards, Astrohog

anybody going? I went last August and it was a GREAT show! I was hoping for more Z's though. So how about it? anybody from WA, OR, ID or CA gonna show up? I sure would like to meet some of you guys in person! It is a three day event with camping on site at the fairgrounds, so you guys that have to travel can make a weekend of it! Iposted the dates on the calendar here. Regards, Astrohog

Thanks for the replies, all! After reading your responses, I realized that what I really needed was advice on where to start my refresh. I have done enough research to be aware of all the "quality" places out there that offer us enthusiasts help and support and parts for our early Z's. I am also fortunate to have an Uncle and Cousin close by that have had early Z's/Datsuns since I can remember! I also joined the ZCCW last year (I have not joined this year, but will) and been to their big meet in Port Townsend last August. What a GREAT event and good group of guys and gals!!! I am hoping to meet some of you Oregon guys there this August, right??? A couple of you mentioned starting with the suspension components. As I do not have a garage/shop here at home, any work I do will be in borrowed space away from home so I figure any work I do myself will take 2 -3 times aas long as it would if it were here. I am considering having the local Z specialist do some or all of the work and I also have a good friend here who wants to do the bodywork/paint. How about a list/timeline from you experts about what order to do proceed on a refresh? This is what I have come up with as far as what I have to start with and what I want from my Z when it is complete: -I am starting with a 1971 240Z, (build 10/70), HLS30 16,9_ _ _ - all #'s match, it is all original, no cracks on orig dash, and is a reliable driver. Here are the things I want to do to her: - get rid of all rust and protect from future rust as much as possible. (my car was at the ZCCW "Meeting of the Mindz" event Aug. 2006 @ Port Townsend, WA and many of the guys there said I had a VERY NICE example with very little rust. (some rocker panel/dogleg rust and some in the rear valance (under the rear hatch) but NOTHING structural and not "cancerous". - upgrade/tighten the suspension for a more comfortable/sporty ride (NOT racing stiff - re-upholster/re-foam the seats - new carpet - return to silver, but I think I will deviate from the stock silver to one that I really like and possibly do the "rally stripe" thing. -Thinking possibly pulling,crating and keeping the L24(#'s match, remember) and swapping a mildly built L28 (200 h.p. maybe?) - and, of course, wheels and tires, modern stereo. Any advice you guys can give as far as what order to do all of this would be great as I have never really done a refresh/resto before. OH YEAH, As the weather is getting nicer here in the NW, I would like to be able to drive her a little bit here and there and maybe get to a couple local drives/events. Is it unreasonable to expect to get the work done and still have her available (at least intermitently) to drive? Or should I get my money and parts together and JUST DO IT until it is done? Thanks again all for your help!!!! AM I GONNA SEE THE OREGON GUYS AT PORT TOWNSEND THIS AUGUST????? regards, Astrohog

Hey all! I have a '71 240Z (10/70 build). I bought it in August 2006. It has 102,000 orig. miles and I am the fourth owner. The second and third owner probably only put a total of a couple thousand miles on her combined. The original owner was at least a Z enthusiast as he was a member of the ZCCA. It came from the factory painted silver and the original owner had her painted red (NOT a quality paint job, but good enough to keep her mostly protected from the elements.) I want to start at least a "refresh", but I do not like to half-arse anything so I am having a hard time deciding how far to go with it. I really want to keep the "vintage-stock" feel to her, but also want to have some performance/modern amenities as well. I very much appreciate the history of these cars and am all for keeping as many on the road and original as possible. At what point do I decide wether this car is a nice enough (early enough??) example to keep her completely stock? I would hate to think that I did anything to a classic car that would greatly reduce her value/collectibility. Also, I live in the Northwest where it is WET. When I get ready to do rust repair and new paint, how far should I strip her down? I would LOVE to be able to completely strip her and do the rotisserie thing so as to end up with a basically "new" and completely rust-protected car. If I thouroughly check her out and attack all known cancerous areas, is it possible to get ALL the potential rust and still get it all sealed well enough so I won't have to do this again in, say 7-10 years? I would LOVE to be able to do a complete, concours-quality stock resto, but don't think I have the time or $$ to see it through. when I am refreshing her, if I want to replace, say the "diamond" vinyl...Is the stuff that is available considered by "purists" to be an acceptable replacement for the stock stuff? My original diamond vinyl is okay right now, but am afraid that as I start cleaning her up and digging for rust that it may crack, tear or whatever. Should I be afraid of hurting the stock stuff, or is the replacement stuff good enough that I do not need to worry? The same goes for the seat covers...are the replacements good enough, or would there be a significant premium put on the fact that they are all original? I know I am a worry-wart, but would very much appreciate all your feedback!! I hope I have portrayed my sitation so y'all understand what I am asking here. Also, I think I want to paint her back to silver, but would really prefer a more "modern" silver such as the VW/Audi silver. Will this be severely frowned upon by most Z enthusiasts? (or only the true purists?) How about if I added two black stripes to the silver ala "rally stripes"? I really value all the opinions I read here on this site, so speak up!!!! Regards, Astrohog

Thanks, Arne! any reason I should NOT sandblast it? Jeff

Hi guys, 1971 240Z. Just fitted the stock air filter assembly and love it!....except it is scratched and showing signs of its old age. I would like to refinish and paint it. If I have it media-blasted, can I get all of the original stickers to put back on it? Also, is the sealing gasket still available? I think I saw an old post about the original color, so I know others have done this, but I just really want to know if it is safe to media blast, or should I use chem paint stripper, or hand sand...? Would it look good chromed? I am gonna have to have the bumpers re-done anyway, and thought chrome might look good for that custom touch. whaddya all think? Regards, Astro

The light in the roof of my car works, but the switch part is broken so it is either always on, or always off. Looks like I'll need to get a new one. Can anybody point me to the best source? Thanks! Astro

Thanks, guys! you made it very clear to me now! Anyone know what that part would be called, or if it is available? (the push-fit vent tube, that is). Thanks, Jeff

Thanks, Arne! It appears that the end the p.o. cut off had a small nipple for a vacuum line attached? If I am correct, where did this vac line connect at the other end? Jeff

I have a '71 240 Z. There is a hose that connects on one end to the PCV valve, and on the other end it connects to a tube that comes out of the engine. On my car this tube has been cut short (I think to make room for the York a/c unit). What I want to know is if this tube is just threaded into the engine? Can it be "unscrewed" and replaced with a new part that has not been cut down? If so, what is the part called and is it available and if so, where would I find it? Any light you "gurus" can shed on this matter would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks in advance, Astrohog

what happened to this thread?? I am dying to hear how it ended! (maybe someone else died trying to get to the end?). Astro

76 Datsun280Z, I see your located in Wa, but where? There is a great z club in the Seattle area, and I am located in B'ham. Sometime we gotta go on one of the ZCCW drives! Regards, Astrohog

Well, I finally decided to pull the smog pump and A/C from my '71. It went real smooth, and I sure like the amount of room it leaves to access the engine! I guess I should see cooler running temps with the "radiator" part gone. After the A/C was removed, I was able to fit the stock air filter! I took her for a nice drive through the twisties by my place and just had a blast!! She is running better than ever! I am having a blast going through one little bit at a time and each time having success! I am no mechanic, so I am always surprised when my weekend project goes well! I am getting ready to have a stereo head unit installed and then I think I am gonna store her for the winter. Some of the things I hope to accomplish this winter are: pull the tank and boil and seal it. re-foam and upholster the drivers seat and arm pad. all new rubber weatherstripping. I think I will try to strip the factory "sound deadening" and POR-15 the front floorpans. That ought to keep my busy! Regards, Astrohog

Randy, To be honest I have not looked at the A/C that close, but it is mounted on the drivers side and I would have to smash the front air intake to get the stock airbox on! Jeff

Richard, The reason I want to remove it is because it weighs more than a boat anchor, it really takes up alot of space under the hood, and here in WA state I really don't see a need to have a (marginal anyway) A/C in my part-time driver. I tried to put the stock air filter box back on this weekend and it wouldn't fit with the A/C in there. Am I missing something? Anybody else have this issue? Regards, Astrohog

The original owner of my '71 upgraded to the f.m. stereo in '72 (no f.m. avail in '71 !!). I am relatively sure the f.m. was added at the dealer and the switch is located on the inside left of the glove box. I realize this is not very convenient, but it is period correct if that interests you at all. I robbed an electric antenna from a later model Z and I plan to install it in my '71. When I do, I will leave the BIG UGLY switch in the glove box, but utilize the "built in" antenna control that the newer head units have. Regards, Astrohog

For all you "old" R/C guys, there is a new product out there that would be interesting to try in our Z application. It is called "Flite-Metal" and is actually very thin aluminum with an aggresive adhesive already applied. It is so thin that it will "stretch" some and is meant to be burnished onto the surface. It comes in 6" X 25' rolls, so one piece should suffice with no splicing needed. Here is a link to the website: http://www.flitemetal.com/ Hope some of you enterprising sorts will try it out and let us know how it works!! (can you say guinea pig?!!) regards, Astrohog

Here's mine, HLS30-16896 build date 12/70 Astrohog

I am trying to clean up my engine compartment ('71 240Z). When I bought this car, there were all kinds of lines that were plugged with screws (looks like an octopus having spaghetti for dinner!) A buddy of mine came over with his '73 and all his holes were neatly plugged with pipe plugs? or bolts? So I took the lines off today and went on a search for plugs. I am not sure how to explain what holes I am plugging, but I will give it a try. Two of the nipples are the same. One was plugged when I got the car, so I do not know what it was, the other (which is the same size) feeds the "throttle closer delay diaphragm". These two holes are REAL close to 1/8" NPT (pipe thread), but just a hair smaller. I tried 1/8" pipe plugs and they would engage MAYBE one thread and that was all. the other hole I want to plug is to the left og the PCV valve and was plugged when I got the car. It is soooo close to 1/4" NPT, but again is a hair smaller. I work in the fastener industry and have checked metric bolts to match the threads and again, they two smaller ones are sooo close to 10mm X 1.00 (very fine) thread, but are just a hair smaller in diameter. I am thinking they are all metric pipe thread, but cannot find any local vendors that have metric pipe. Am I barking up the wrong tree? Anybody know where I can find some plugs for these holes? Regards, Astrohog

I am looking to remove the A/C in my '71 240Z as I live in WA and just don't need it. What all is involved in this process? DO I need to take it to a certified A/C shop? Will I have to mess with any of the heating system to remove it? Anybody done it? If so, can you give me a brief explanation of steps to take and any pitfalls I may run into? Thanks again for any help, you guys are awesome!! Regards, Astrohog