FirstGenZ

Finesse-it !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This stuff WORKS.

I use 8mm spark plug boots. They last forever. No need to use any slickum. Just put 'em on and forget about em'

Not if it is still working.

New rack bushings cured my shimmy also. If the crossmember is bent real bad, change it. Lot of stuff connected to it.

To answer the original question, that is the clove box.

It would be a lot smarter and cheaper to just buy one.

I've made metal wire holders. If you make the holes large enough to accept heavy duty grommets they work just fine.

Ask and you will receive. That's why were here.

That's too funny.

You'll like it!!!!!!!!! When they're right they are very impressive. Keep me posted on the remains. Skipzcar@aol.com. Thanks

That looks like a nice car. What's your plan for the body after you remove the engine? I've been looking for a decent ZX body. I have a great drive train in a badly rusted body.

My kids grew up in my shop. This brings back great memories. Thanks.

Are they the same as the 280Z? I have several from 280's. Send me a couple of bucks for postage and I'll send you one. Skipzcar@aol.com

With the age of these cars and multiple owners, it's hard to tell whats been changed. As a rule the standard shift cars have a R200 and the automatic cars have the R180. The R180 diff has side seal retainers and the R200 does not. The retainers have five bolts holding them in place. The only way to know for sure what the ratios are is to remove the rear cover and check the numbers on the ring gear.

Powdercoating might be the answer.

I did mine in a 78 from scratch. No kit. Use the old headliner as a pattern. Use a magic marker to draw lines fore and aft and side to side. Both headliner and roof. Use a tape measure so that the lines are centered. Try a trial run to be sure the lines will position the headliner correctly. Spray both roof and headliner with 3M contact cement. Very carefully position the headliner intersecting lines with the lines on the roof. Work from the lines outward. This is not a job that can be rushed. Be patient. When you get to the edges use a paint stir stick to tuck the edges in place.

Use a 1 1/16 socket and breaker bar to turn the engine.

I have two extras from 280's. I don't know what years they interchange with. Anyone interested make me an offer. skipzcar@aol.com

People with good information and a willingness to help.

Don't count out a bad ECU. It's very rare but does happen. I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the cold start valve or the temp sender or the thermotime switch. All can create problems. Always remember that a lot of the parts and pieces are very old. Everything can and will fail at some time. Check everything. Good luck.

EMAIL address?

When I did mine I took the dash out. The caps don't fit right out of the box. After trimming and fitting several times I was satisfied that it was time to CEMENT it in place. That's right.....CONTACT CEMENT!!!!! Silicone is a good sealant. Not a good glue. I started in the middle and worked my way to the outer edges. Making sure that everything was in perfect alignment. If you don't reach in the car and touch it you would never know it wasn't a stock dash pad. It was a bit labor intensive but the end result was a perfect fitting dash cover.

You may have a three way junction that is SAE and are trying to use metric flare nuts as are used on the Z car. Those threads are very close but just enough different that they are not compatible. Carl.... Flare nuts are not tapered like pipe plugs. They are straight thread. Their holding force is applied to the flare on the tubing.

Ebay. Polished and chrome show up occasionally.

It looks like a 8 pin connector. Only 6 pins are being used on that one. I'm scraping a 75. I'll check it for that connector. Contact me direct at: Skipzcar@aol.com.