72240Z

Great! That's just what I was looking for. My only other question is how do I physically identify one versus a 4 speed or one from a 510 or something else? are there numbers on the case or ?? Devin

I'm debating swapping out my 4 speed in my 72 for a 5 speed. I've read through about 30 posts and still have questions. As I understand it, I have a type B transmission with a built in bellhousing, and an R180 rear diff with 3.36 gears. I've seen references to 2 different 5 speeds, the late Z, not sure on years, 77-78 only? and the ZX 5 speed, which was 79-8? I've not been able to find gear ratios for any of these transmissions. I understand that the overdrive is taller in the ZX trans. Can anybody provide specs or point me to an existing chart? What about physical fitment? do they bolt in with the same crossmember, fit through the hole in the floor properly, and length? Does the driveshaft need to be shortened? Thanks, Devin

I'm not for sure on the pickup yet, was listed as a 521. It's a 69 model. It'll be home Sunday night, so I'll get some time to look it over good maybe the following weekend. I just hope it's not too low geared for highway cruising. But the idea of a 2.4 and 5 speed out of an S13 is appealing.... Devin

Great information. Thanks to all who've replied. I guess I'm on the hunt for early Z or 510 parts collectors. Anybody have one they're willing to loan me for this project? I'll gladly return it once the engine is done. Funny thing, I picked up a 521 to use as a driver while I'm going through my drivetrain. I haven't taken posession of it yet, but it supposedly has a 1300cc engine. Is that still an L series? Devin

My L24 is going to be coming out for a rebuild soon, and will be dyno'ed when done if I can find a bellhousing seperate from the transmission. My stock 4 speed is all 1 unit. Did Nissan ever use a seperate bellhousing that will bolt to an L-series engine? Devin

Long story. I'm giving my 240Z to my brother who lives in Europe. It has high miles, but runs great. I'm a tech by trade, but not an engine assembler or machinist. I want somebody who has a passion for these engines to rebuild the engine in my car. I'm capable of pulling and installing it. Could do the assembly too, but am time limited. Is there anybody who really cares near me? I am on the coast near Eureka, but Redding/Brookings/Santa Rosa is not out of the question. Thanks Devin

My 240 shares space with my 1964 El Camino. 427, 4 spd, 4.56 gears, runs 12.00 in the quarter. Parents bought the Z new in 72, Mom hauled me everywhere in it as a kid. She drove it daily until 2002, when I got it. Odo currently reads 278K. 1 repaint about 1995. Engine never apart until 261K, for a valve seat. I also have a 1963 Corvair in the driveway, was my regular commuter for 3 years until I lost my job 25 miles from home. Wife's 01 Suburban in the driveway also. 1955 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup on the street. My general workhorse, frequent runner across town, usually 5 miles or less. Devin

Since I work at a dealer, i cringe at anything less than a factory filter. I do my own maintaince, and I do it right. I hate seeing lube stickers from the local quickie....always wonder if they did it right and what they missed. Personal pet peeve. I wouldn't run anything less than a Wix, or Napa gold, same thing, or factory filter. A L-series Z uses a 1520843g00 filter. Mine seems to like 20/50 Castrol best to make reasonable oil pressure, but it has almost 300,000 miles on it... Devin

Ditch the 90's wheels and drop the price about $4K and it will sell. Devin

I've had this car for 5 years now, my parents were the original owners. As such, I've had to do very little to it in that time. It had always been maintained at the locla dealer where it was bought new, but unfortunatley over the years the skills to maintain it were lost. Even though I do work at a Nissan Dealer, there's nobody left now that was around when these were actually on the road. Most of my tuning experience is in Chevys, and 36-38* total works well for them. I didn't know where L24s are happy, with the aluminum head and 8.8:1 compression. Increasing the initial to 10* did increase low speed driveability, likely due to more vacuum. It's not pinging at this point. I may try increasing the total a little at a time in order to take it as far as I can, but it may not necessarily make best power there. I don't have a dyno locally to find out for sure. I was hoping there was a general rule for these motors. Devin

I finally threw a timing light on my 240 this weekend and discovered timing was set at 0* initial. I checked my reference manual, an old Haynes, and it listed 17* for an L24 without emissions equipment, and 10* for cars with, depending on dist part number. I checked my dist, and found that I have a factory reman that doesn't match up with any given numbers. I set the initial at 10*, which gave me a total of about 35* with centrifugal, and 43* total with vacuum. Is this appropriate with a bone stock engine, or should I be looking for more? Devin

To anybody looking in the future, I got it figgered out. I was losing power between the negative side of the coil and the points. I made a jumper wire that ran from the coil to the condensor and had power to the points. Fired right up. I hope this can help somebody else. Devin

71 240Z, all stock. I get no spark from the coil. I've changed out the points for a known good set, same with condensor. Using a test light, I have power at both sides of the coil. I changed it out for another, I believe to be good, not sure. With ignition on, points open, I have power to both sides of the coil. Where do I go from here? It's been a couple of days since I tried last, and I can't remember what I had with points closed. I want to be sure that everything is operating correctly to the coil before I condemn it. Devin

I bought a spare console for my 240 a while back, now I'm not going to use it and need to get it up for sale. THIS IS NOT AN AD. I have a question. It has the opening for a single choke pull, not the early double choke/throttle levers. It is correct for my 72, and I believe 71, does it fit 73 as well? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks, Devin

It's just a ploy to enter another niche market. They're basically aimed at 20-somethings who can't afford a Z or the woman whos kids are grown and would like something more personal and sporty than a minivan, without the "harsh" ride of a Z. I'm not impressed by them, but I know of several who are trying to figure out a way to buy them. To each thier own. Devin

I recently drove a friend's 280Z with factory injection, all stock. It sure is nice compared to my 240, but it fell on its face about 4500 rpm. My 240 feels crisp and lean, the 280 feels pretty fat. I've seen the 280 injection adapted to almost everything over the years, but can it be run well on a 240? I don't want it to die at 4500 rpm. It will pull beyond that, but the power is gone. My 240 with carbs pulls good right to 5600 and then it's done making power. I really like the driveablility of the injection and I have to assume the mileage is better too. Any thoughts? Devin

Still looking....I have in mind something around 24x36, I have this huge white space with nothing on it. I don't have a specific image, as somebody said there are those with a good eye for shots, and I'm not one of them. A blown up reprint of an original ad would be OK too. Devin

I'm looking for a clean (non-race) poster of an early Z. I haven't yet found much. I think one of the suppliers has a technical drawing, and I've found one small poster on epay. I'd like something in a 24x36 size or so that would be appropriate on the wall of my stall at work (Nissan dealer), so no girlie pictures etc. Devin

Had to go and look. Not surprising, really, Dad had it all prepared. In the driver's tool compartment I found flares, a first aid kit, a spare belt, and a fire extinguisher. The passenger side has the original jack and tools, including wheel chocks. Opened up the tool kit and it is meager, but basic essentials. Devin

I sure hope one of you guys happnes along if I'm stuck on the side of the road. I have a small tool kit kicking around somewhere in my car, can't even tell you what's in the tool bins. Maybe I oughta check it. I tend to go with the less is more theory, and can probably make something work if I have to. I spent 5 years working in a lumber mill where anything could be fixed with a crescent wrench, a hammer and a screwdriver. If that didn't get it, out came the torch. Devin

Quite a while ago (probably a year ago or better) somebody posted a detailed explanation of how to correctly install a pertronix unit in a 240Z. In searching previous threads, I am unable to locate it. Would somebody be kind enough to point me in the right direction? Devin

After a mere 2 years you should not be needing a refill. You probably have a leaking O-ring somewhere in the system. R-12 has gotten rediculously expensive in recent years, if it is attainable at all. I would suggest having your system evac'ed and inspected for leaks. Yes, this will probably be expensive, but after finding your leak, your system should be good for 10 years+. My 2/72 has been disconnected for so long I don't dare do anything with it. Good luck to you. Devin

Had my 240 in 100+ heat a few years ago, moving well, but pulling a good hill with traffic close ahead of me, was running near the high side of the temp gauge. Still running a stock style 2 row radiator. Fan clutch in proper working order. I want to have a new radiator made up for mine, but the one shop I trust to do it closed 2 years ago. I keep mine out of the heat these days. Devin

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I'm still not sure what I'll do. I'll probably continue to hang onto it for sentimental reasons, but it bugs me to have it just sit most of the time. My buisness is 2 miles from home, just starting to warm it up, and while I do run deliveries all day, going a mile, then half mile, then 2 miles etc is not the way I want to treat it. I have a shop truck to take that abuse. Devin

My car is silver with red interior, stick. Nothing has been modified over the years. It still has the original radio etc. Parts have been replaced over the years as they wore out, but it always went to the dealer for work. It is all stock, but I won't say it is original. It was repainted about 10 years ago properly, down to bare metal. It does have a few small rock chips in the front due to being driven. The odometer reads 76000, but since it's been in the family since new I know it has rolled twice. You wouldn't know it from looking at it or driving it however. I won't pretend that it is a show car. It would need a good amount of detailing to get there. The engine runs well and has no leaks. It still has the AIR pump on it even. The only non-functioning part of the car is the dealer installed a/c. It's missing the condensor, but everything else is there. I have pics of it posted here under my sign name. Devin