72240Z

Thank you for the responses. I have passed on the information to my brother and suggested he join the forum also. Devin

My 72 240z is leaving in about 2 weeks to go live with my brother in Norway for the forseeable future. I've spent the last 2 years getting it prepped for this, and thought we had found a way around Eroupean laws as an imported vehicle. Evidently that is allowed for show only and must have amber turn signals to be legal on the road. I found at the beginning of this process somebody who was reproducing them, but cannot find the site now. I would prefer an original set but at this point I need something that will be legal. Help! Devin

Finally got it all figured out I think. Including all of the above I had somehow managed to connect the ground side of the blower motor to constant ground, not through the switch. Turns put there is a deceptive wire in the right place. Devin

The thing that bugs me is that all this worked fine before I took it apart and was very careful to only use the factory wires for the radio install. Now I've wasted my entire day chasing my tail on irelivant stuff that should have been out to better use.

Well my last test for the day I found where ground was coming into the switch and jumped from there to where it goes out to the blower. I turned the key on and the blower didn't run but after a few seconds the fuse popped. I'm done for the day but still looking for ideas Thanks Devin

Dome fuse was popped... Map light now works but blower is still on any time the ignition is on. I have continuity from the black wire coming off the switch to the ground connector at the blower

And the blower motor won't turn off! I'm so sick of fighting this dash!

Agg still fighting it. The lead for the map light is supposed to be constant hot isn't it?

The inline fuse took care of the problem. I just assumed it wasn't factory. Devin

After what seemed an endless search I found an inline fuse that I presume was not factory installed and it was blown. Blower now works. On to other problems

I'm not sure what I did but I have my heater control assembly apart to install an aftermarket stereo and when I went to put it all back together I found that my blower motor won't work. I can't find any power going through the switch itself so I'm guessing that it controls the ground side. When I check at the motor only getting .15 volt at the red wire. I must have disconnected something but can't find it for the life of me. Any ideas? Thanks, Devin

Did a search prior to posting. Evidently didn't look in the right place or use the proper terms. Thank you for the link. Devin

My rear defroster in my 72 doesn't work. I understand this is a common problem with the lines breaking down in the glass over the years. I've checked mine, and have 12v at the connectors but no continuity through the circuit in the glass. Is there a way to repair this or am I looking at new glass? It has not been a problem for me, but I'm preparing to send the car to Norway where it gets a bit cold! Devin

I was searching for one a while back for my 72 and never did find one. Fortunately I'm not in need at this time, but I'm shipping the car overseas to my brother and he wanted all that kind of stuff replaced. I'd still be up for a group buy if somebody would make one available. I'm not on here a whole lot but would appreciate an email if that happens. hotrod64chevy@yahoo.com Thanks, Devin

I'd like to hear how the install goes on the one from Black Dragon. I've been out of the Z world for a number of years so good sources are unknown to me. I'd still prefer OEM so if somebody has an NOS piece feel free to contact me. Devin

I'm rebuilding my 240Z to send to my brother overseas in Norway. He's not exactly mechanically inclined, so the point is to have everything as little problematic as possible. Generally speaking, I've used Nissan parts for replacement, but I can't get a heater core from the factory any more. Knowing what a hassle it is to get to, I really don't want to have trouble with it. I'm after a quality product. Since it's going overseas, any warranty is pretty much useless. So far in my searching I've found: $56 from Amazon $114 from Napa online $299 from MSA I won't say cost is no object, and I'm willing to pay a bit for quality, but what I see is a very wide range for presuambly the same product. I figured I'd probably buy both heater core and radiator from the same place. Any suggestions? Thanks, Devin

Ok, time to update. I haven't had much garage time in months, but the last few days have been productive. I have found and corrected multiple problems: 1. Distributor timing was off as originally suggested. I had forgotten about the gross adjustment on the underside of the distributor. It had been previously set all the way to one direction. I'm pretty sure last time the engine was apart in 1983 the distributor drive shaft was set incorrectly. Now everything lines up as per the manual. 2. I had put the carb linkage between the carbs together in such a manner that the front carb was being forced open enough to allow it to pull 5500 rpm worth of air. Once that was corrected it starts up and runs as it should. I've seen too many 'HELP ME' posts over the years without a conclusion, so I wanted to post my end results. hopefully it will help somebody else. Thanks to all who responded. Devin

Ok, I'll bite. Where do I go to download the FSM? Thanks, Devin

Firing order is anti-clockwise as per my manual. Static timed at 10 degrees. I don't have the factory engine manual, only the body manual from Nissan. Do not have the other book. Just spoke to machinist, he reused the stock cam (everything was in really good shape, this engine didn't need to be rebuilt but that's another story) so that eliminates the cam. Anybody have stock cam info to degree it? Thanks, devin

My 72 has an all stock rebuild on the L24. I got it back from the machine shop about 6 months ago, and have been slowly working on getting everything put back together. At this time it should run, but it keeps spitting and popping back through the carbs. It will crank, fire while doing so and catch for a few seconds, until the rpms start to come up a little bit and then it pops hard enough to blow all the air and fuel out of the carbs and dies. I have verified the firing order many times over, replaced the plug wires with a new set I had on the shelf, checked and reset the valve clearance. All to no avail. I was thinking I must have a mechanical problem, an intake valve not sealing, so I did a compression test this afternoon and found an even 100 psi across the board. I'm now thinking that the cam timing is retarded, closing the intakes too late, allowing the spark/ignited mixture to come out the intake (caught my fender cover on fire.) Also figure that would allow for the low cranking compression. It was 120 psi before I took it apart. Carbs are the same, untouched since I took it apart. I've been looking all over the net and I can't find installation instructions for a Cloyes timing chain. I have a Haynes manual published 1974 and a Chilton manual from 1980 I've been using to verify cam timing, but they're clear as mud expecting factory chain and marks. I'm going to borrow a piston stop and verify the true 0 on the balancer as soon as I can, then degree the cam. Anybody have more things I may have missed? Thanks, Devin

It's all a gain

When I took my engine apart last January for a rebuild, the tube on the front of the block that attaches to a hose then to the PCV valve came out of the blockwith little to no resistance. this is a metal pipe about an inch in diameter, on the driver's side near the front of the engine. I'm assuming this is supposed to be a press fit? I'm thinking about making sure it stays with a touch of JB Weld or something similar. Thoughts? Devin

Thanks for the replies. I really hadn't been looking to re-invent the wheel. I can easily design and build a bracket to mount it to the floor, but for 25 bucks, the one posted by manny is worth the asking price. I had intended to remount it to the console, but the floor is a much better idea. I had already searched for info when I posted, had read posts about putting it on the floor and not wanted to change it if I didn't have to. Now it looks like it is the best option. Devin

My 2/72 240Z has the oh-so common problem of having broken the console near and at the choke pull. I think first it broke off the front mount, then Dad took it to the dealer who drilled a hole through that and put in a 6mm bolt with a nut to retain it. Over time and usage, the console ended up breaking completely from the lever slide slot toward the driver's side as well as towards the ashtray. I've now repaired the breaks from the underside with fiberglass and they're barely noticeable on top. The problem I now have is that the forward post that is supposed to provide a mounting point is about 1/2 the height it should be, and cracked to boot. The rear one is "only" stripped out. I've been thinking about cutting off the remains completely and creating a cone-shaped piece with a wide base to better support the mounts at each spot. Probably make them out of plastic and try to glue them on somehow? Anybody have a better idea? I was discussing this dilemma with a co-worker who thinks that there was an updated bracket available with a better mounting system, but I haven't found proof of it. I found info in an old thread about making a braket, but no specifics or pics. Any guidance is welcome. Thanks, devin

Ok, aside from the speedo gears, to get back to my question, how do I identify a 5 speed? Obviously i'ts going to have 6 possibilities for the shifter to move into. I'm likely to scrounge up one buried in somebody's garage along with other piles of car parts. I don't have my 4 speed sitting here to compare it to. Are there numbers stamped on it or cast into it? Devin