Mpower280z

I removed the carbon canister on my 78 and didnt run into any problems like that. I dont really know what else to tell you other than check those vaccum hoses again. "If it aint' broke, dont fix it!" Good Luck.

Okay, I just spoke with the guy that sold me this set up and he now says he is not sure that they are 450cc injectors. However he does know for sure that they are from a 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX Turbo. Anyone know what size they really are?

So I have this JSK O-Ring fuel rail and intend to install it on the car to help sell it. Yes I am finally getting ready to move and need to sell the Z. But anyway, it has the 450cc injectors on it that are for a Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX Turbo. I was wondering that if you twaeked the AFM and fuel pressure, could these work? I really doubt they will so my next question is; Does anyone have a lower cc set of O-Ring injectors they are willing to trade or sell?

Never be afraid to build your own engine. My problem was actually not my error. It turned out to be a bad cylinder head... A very bad one. The valve seat found a way to come apart from the head and obstruct the valve from closing. After a couple revolutions, the valve finally broke in half and made itself a nice hole through the top of the piston. Building these engines is actually quite easy. I did replace all bearings, had the crank checked, and used all rods from the set. The block to my advantage was not damaged! We simply honed it out again and installed the pistons. I completed the entire removal, rebuild, and installation in less than 48 hours. However, I worked on it 45 hours straight. The results were incredible! I installed a new ported and polished head with another set of valves, but same springs. The difference is unbelievable. I drove it around the block and I cant even begin to tell you how great it ran. I never knew a cylinder head can cause that much damage. I wasnt going to let it ruin my weekend! By the way, I posted pictures of the disaster in my albums. Be sure to check them out and it might make you feel better about remembering to have the cylinder head CAREFULLY inspected before installation. I also threw in a couple of what the car finally looks like after all this work. It drives, but is still not quite finished.

This is unbelievable. Today was an awsome day to fire up any sports car in Chicago. I decided to take my Z for a drive after finally fixing the Toyota brakes (They work great!). I drove it to the local store, but hitched a ride in a tow truck for the journey home. Leaving the parking lot, I was in first gear and had begun to reach for the shifter at about 3.5 thousand rpm. I started to hear a pinging/grinding noise come from the motor which I am not afraid to admit I built myself. As some of you may know this is a fairly fresh motor. Hearing this heart sinking noise, I got on the clutch and she then died on me. I knew whatever that noise was didnt sound good therefore I made no attemt at restarting the car. Thanks to Sprint PCS I was able to get my car towed home for free where I began my disassembly. I lifted the valve cover and noticed three rockers were off their lash pads. At that point I had a buddy of mine come over to check it out. Neither of us have seen this happen before. An hour of discussion went no where so he left and I proceeded to disassemble. The intake manifold came off next and as I looked into the intake port on the number three cylinder, there was no more intake valve. I then removed the spark plug on that same cylinder and noticed large chunks of alluminum that looked heavily damaged. Time went by and the Head finally came off showing the number three intake valve sunk into the top of the piston and bent almost 90 degrees! I almost pissed myself when I looked at it. I knew it was bad, but not that bad! I was so mad, I was happy! Not only were there chunks of allminum in the number three clyinder, but in numbers six, five, four, and two. There were large amounts in the intake manifold, oil pan, and when I finally removed the engine and disassembled that, there were shavings all over the inside of the block! So I just finished cleaning all the allumnium out from the block and replaced the piston/rod with one from another motor laying around. I first wanted to ask you guys what you think caused this. Its been driving great for a while now and this just seemed to have come out of no where. Another thing I wanted an opinion on was that I used the number two piston out of the other motor to replace number three on the broken motor, with the bearings from the busted rod/cap (they looked in good shape) is that going to be ok? Because the rockers where out of line, could the cam be bent and need to be replaced? Rockers too? Obviously valves... or should I keep them?? haha. I need to replace the N42 Head (Very badly damaged) so I will be building a new top end. Any precautions before she blows up again? Just to give you a better idea, I took some pictures of the piston which I will post tomorrow. There were no serious modifacations made to the motor.

Too much snow, cant move the car into the garage tonight. Ill try again when its plowed better. And its so darn cold!!! Thats propane heater was my best investment in this project!

I hope that will solve the problem. If you lived closer, I could fix your battery tray like new! And of as always would beat your best quote. Rust is a major factor with these cars and I try my best to keep as many of them on the road. Good Luck, let me know if the repair eliminates the leak.

Mat M, Thanks for the tip on the brake lines. I had no idea that the lines on the drivers side were longer. That comes to me as quite a suprise. Marty R, I can see the point in bleeding the calipers in that manner. Alsmost like how you bleed the master cylinder, but instead with the calipers. I'll give it a try and then bleed the system out again the way Mat M has informed me. I'll try round three tomorrow night and get back to you then. Thanks!

biddljj, Air bubbles rise therefore the bleeder screw must be on top. If you have your calipers installed with the bleeder screw on bottom then I suggest you change them and rebleed your cars system.

Mat, the pads are Duralast Semi-M. I know that the MC is providing enough fluid because there is plenty of pressure at the pedal. I did the bench bleeding process before installation. I dont think your supposed to start the bleeding at the drivers side rear. Your supposed to start from the furthest corner of the MC. The brake line separates in the rear at the center of the car. Right? Thats what my tech always told me.

Its not that the pedal is soft, there is plenty of pressure. There just seems to be a lack of friction between the rotor and the pad. I know for sure the calipers are installed correctly (Bleeder screw on top). My stock calipers did the same thing so Im starting to wonder if I should buy another set of Brembo rotors or have them turned. I dont see how that can help, there is no heat marks or imperfections on the surface of contact. Just for shits and grins, Monday I'll go have the rotors turned and see if that helps. Might as well, couldnt hurt.

Just finishing up the final touches on the 78 when I ran into a problem installing the Toyota brakes. I had them plated and rebuilt. I always use DOT 4 brake fluids and assembled the brakes correctly. After installation, Bleeding went very easy, the pedal became stiff only when the car was off. When the vaccum assist came on with the engine, the pressure went to zero and pedal to the floor. At this point I realized it might be better to go with a slightly larger master cylinder. I then purchased a master cylinder made for a 1981 280zx. I installed the master cylinder and made progress. The pressure remained the same even with the vaccum assist on. But now the brakes feel as though you really need to give it your all to stop the car. Its as though there is grease or WD40 between the rotor and pad. Feels as though there is no friction. Any ideas?