red_dog007

Wow. I just got back from Tampa on a 2 day trip and wow. I swear, every time I drive through Florida and will see at least a dozon 1980's 300zx's. All in great looking shape on the outside at that too. Plus I usually spot one or two in a dealers lot waiting for another owner. Though anywhere else I go, or even currently live, you will be hard pressed to spot one anywhere. How did these things get so popular in Florida? It is like the only reason why I enjoy going to Florida. When I go down here it makes me want to get a 300zx right now.

I found a car just like that, roughly the same condition, that was running though for $400 and I passed it up. After looking around, these things are way more expensive to work on compared to our S30's and our a pain to work on. Stock motor doesn't like a turbo without some modifications first due to a high compression, and without the turbo your only looking at 160hp / 174ft.lbs torque in a car that weighs 3100lbs. If I were you I would wait like I am. The Z31 is my second favorite Z car after the 240z, and I am one day going to get one. You can get a turbo model for $2,000 and under in decent condition. These motors can take a bunch of boost stock, and if you get a 84-86/87ish 300z, the stock turbo will pull all the way to 15psi with an intercooler and removing some restrictors in the turbo. Plus this way would be cheaper then a deal that you have. Cause a clip is going to be at least $1,400 for a new motor/tranny, or if you turbo the stock motor that is going to be big $$ right there too. A turbo model is cheaper and is already made up for you. Though, if you aren't like me and not wanting it to go fast, I would have bought that 300zx if I already didn't have a daily driver. Something you could look into at least.

Most likely somewhere in the middle of September if I only say for a few weeks. If I get to stay for a few months or even a year or two, then anytime really. Whatever is better for most people.

I am on sort of a budget, so I unfortunately can't go all out. Though I do want the best value for my money. I want a nice ride, that handles well. More so handling then a smooth ride. What would be the best combination. Tokico HP Shocks and Springs KYB-GR2 Shocks and Eibach Springs Tokico HP Shocks and Eibach Springs Tokico HP Shocks and Euro Spec Springs KYB-GR2 Shocks and Euro Spec Springs These are really the only parts that I can find. Any other recommendations would be great.

Well, umm... I am going to be out in California to get my ride fixed up here soon. Suspension and brakes are the important things atm. Though would people be up for a get together if possible? I might only be out there for a few weeks, or maybe for even a year or so, so I will have to wait and see. After I get my ride fixed up a little, it would be sweet to check out some other peoples rides and to drive a long the beach, or even go up into the mountains or something. I am going to be located in the Santa Cruz area, and there seems to be a lot of people in this general area on this forum. Also, are there any Z clubs around this area that I might be able to join?

Wow, not too bad. I am sure that with a more skilled driver that it can pull a even better time. Getting pretty close to the 350z/G35. I have seen places all over the web say 8.0s or 8.7s for a 240z. I am kinda hoping that it is closer to the 8.0s range. I should be finding out in the next month or so. Though once I am complete done with her, she should be anywhere from 5.5s to 6.0s. Though the mods that I am doing on her are more for cornering as I am not really a straight line guy. There isn't much skill involved, and you really get to see how good the driver is around the corners. So many times have I been in a poo poo ride compared to others, and be WAY far behind in a straight line, but once when get to the bends, I could so easily pass them if we were not on public roads. On a 2 mile stretch or road, I got the same time as my friend. I was in a Accord 135hp and he was in his Supra TT with 300hp. On the short straight away he hit 110mph and I barely hit 80mph, but my skills are better then his around cornering and we pulled the same lap time.

Wow. Thats an amazing story. I would have never thought that any car could make someone almost cry. Even on those stupid pimp my ride kind of shows, you never see anyone cry after their $500 hunk of junk gets $40,000 worth of work. I know myself, I would have asked a sh/t ton of questions about when?, why?, how? and why not now? I love those kind of moments because you know that you touched someone is a special way, and it is a moment that you will never ever forget. You will remember it like it was yesterday for the rest of your life. Those are the best memories anyone could have, as long as they are good. Lets just hope that his memories were good memories.

Nope. Even HEMI and LS monster V8 motors only need 87 octane. It is usually those small liter motor that push big numbers or even large liter motors that push even bigger numbers. Like a 2L motor usually is around 150hp these days average, but if you see one pushing like 200hp n/a, then you know that it needs some high grade fuel. Closer it gets to 100hp per liter whether forced induced or n/a, you know that it needs a higher octane. Who the hell told you that it is a new design? That is bs. Maybe the car, but the motor has been around for ever. I wish that they would get another AMC motor in there. Tons of torque way down low which imo, is what these kind of vehicles need. Diesels would be idel. :devious:

So then I basically have to try and find a 240z tach. Are there any oem after market ones?

I like #2

Will a 1975 Datsun 280z Tachometer work just fine in a 1971 Datusn 240z? Mine isn't reading correctly, and is getting stuck so I am in the market for one that works. My tach, the yellow line starts at 6.5k with red line starting at 7k. This one, the yellow line starts at 6k with red line starting at 6.5k both showing a max of 8k. I hope that this one works. I like that this ones yellow line starts out at 6k as the peak HP ends at 5.6k.

If I recall correctly it is a 3.8L and the motor isn't new at all. That motor was originally only in their minivans from 1991, and they have moved it over to the Pacifica and Wrangler since 07. Why would it be odd to see it use regular?

Any advice? I only got a day left to decide if I want the $40 unit.

I was thinking about ordering online, that is the thing. I could always go to my autozone and see what part numbers they have. What number am I looking for anyways? Isn't supposed to say "S 30" on it? I guess it is the solid one. I am not going for the vented setup. Just going to get some 4x4 rotors and stay with the stock rotor size. Though I am thinking of getting some Powerslot slotted rotors instead of oem rotors. I thought that I was looking for years 84 through 89.

Octane is just a detonation term. Higher the number, harder it is for the fuel to combust. In that one motor that was combusting with regular and plus, it needed the premium. As you shut your motor off it is still in motion. If the fuel sucks, it will keep going and combusting. It sort of turns into a diesel. No spark, but the high compression is what makes the power. High compression with sh/t fuel it will keep going. If your car only needs 87, it will not hurt to put in 93. All it is is a waste of money. The fuel is getting ignited well before the fuels ignition threshold. The thing about dynoing, is you can do 10 pulls and have a 20hp difference from the lowest pull to the highest pull. Happens all the time. That is why people do several pulls with no changes. Now with some vehicles like an SRT4, Cobalt SS with stage kits, almost anything turbo/supercharged with a bunch of PSI, going from 93 to 100 octane can actually give you a nice 20hp increase or so just from the octane boost, though it is also probably has a higher carbon-carbon ration also. Also, like the Cobalt SS, if you run 93 you get the most of the motor, but if you chose to run on 87 you can, the computer will just sense the decrease in the fuels igniting threshold and decrease the amount of psi that the supercharger pushes through the intake.

My Haynes manual says to run 98 octane. I am thinking that it is just the RON measurement, so it would be 93 octane here in the US. I just go a head and use 91 octane, highest there is in Cali. Once it gets out here it will run on 93 octane. It may not need it, but I don't care. Usually only motors with 10.0:1 compression need it or super/turbo charged motors need higher then 87 and if I am not mistaken, and L24 runs at 9.0:1. Though each motor its own. My girlfriend drives a Ford Escort 2.0L SOHC 110hp. The motor was sounding a little rough when we first got it, running on 87 octane. On our trip to Huntsville, I decided to put in 89 octane just to see if anything happens. The motor doesn't run rough anymore and there is a noticeable increase in power due to cylinders not pre-igniting under hard acceleration. I am sure that it would even run better and smoother with 93 octane. Though in my dad's Honda Accord, going from 87 to 93 was not noticeable.

89 Toyota 4x4 calipers are $102 on autozone. Only cost $40 after the core sell back. Now, if I order these do I have to worry that I got the right ones? Are there more then 1 type? Also, will autozone take back the calipers from a 240z as the core return?

Seems like if it is in good condition, you could get some good money for it. Just sell it and get anther Z car. : devious:

$50 for a used unknown to be working 1980zx with E12-80 module distributor. Pulled from a wrecked ride. If it doesn't work are they cheap to fix? Or $70 for a 1981-1983 N/A Distributor with E12-92 module that looks brand new and works and then $50 for the E12-80 module. Plus can this combo even work?

I have a buddy with a 1988 Porsche 944. Expensive to work on, and needs to always buy weird tools for it. Its nice, but I like my Z way better. I think that it is also a bit faster due to it being some 400lbs lighter and only having some 15hp less. Hell, at least you are closer. I am 2,600 miles away from my Z car. I get to go see it in September and hopefully drive it back home.

I have a 240z with the L24 and plan on stroking it. Reason why is I don't want a big fatty V8 in there, or an RB/SR motor. Plus, this is an extremely rare breed that I know I am going to love. Yeah it will cost a pretty penny, but I don't care. My 2.4L will end up somewhere between 2.7L and 2.8L. Reason why people stroke the L28 is because there are kits, and you can pull off anywhere from 3.0L to 3.2L. Up to .5L larger then a L24. Your L26, you could stroke it and do a mild bore but still only get .1L or .2L increase. Not worth the money imo. You could triple carb it with some 40mm webers or something. That will be some nice power for you right there. Diff and Tranny will make it more responsive also.

I hate .pdf files. It always crashes. I even have the latest and poopiest. Anyways, I got to see the first few pictures at least. Looks like what my Z car did when I first got it. Never really driven on the second owner (me being the third) and it sat for at the least 3 years before I picked it up. After gutting the interior, changing fluids, hoses, and giving it somewhat of a bath, it looks TONS better. Going to work on it again in Sept. and it is going to come out a brand new car with all that I am going to be doing to it.

Every place that I go seeing if they have a so and so part for a 240z they are always like "Yeah, I used to have one of those!!!" Then they ask what I am currently doing to it and what I want to do to it. I have only had ricers say, "You mean a 240sx?, What, 240z? Whatever", blow it off and think that their heavy body kit and the poop vtec is going to bet me. "I got vtech, when it kicks in its on!" . Thats what a buddy of mine said yesturday when we swapped out his eclipse for some civic with the crappy make no difference vtec.

Man, I only think that the 2.5L would get that kind of mileage. Don't get me wrong, the Altima is a nice car, its just that Nissan has too many Z-inspired products right now that look WAY better then the Z and even perform better. Though when the base 3.5L Altima is $24k, for just $2k more I had much rather get the 350z. RWD and more power out of the same motor if your in the market for a coupe. The CVT would be nice and smooth for a mom and pap car, but the manual would be better if you want better performance. CVT gives you the rubber band effect which is basically lag. I am sure that it is a little worse design in the Caliber but the R/T has some 30hp more then the SE and the SE is just as fast as the R/T because the R/T only has the CVT and the SE is a manual.

Wanna sell it by chance?