red_dog007

It runs, but extremely bad. Popping noises from within the engine, carb closest to the cabin back fires and makes smoke in the engine bay. Black fuel smelling smoke out the rear. Now, I put on a new electric dizzy which I believe I have wired correctly as I have not been corrected here on the forums. Last night when we got everything hooked up and adjusting the dizzy, it seemed to be running fine, though it was a cold night. Got the dizzy lined up to the first marker on the pulley and called it good for now. Today, with the dizzy lined up to the first marker on the pulley it is running hard and making all kinds of noises that are not good. Now, I wouldn't have thought that even on the first marker that it would be backfiring and what not. The only change that I made from last night to today that involved electrical was with the old dizzy. The big resister thing undernieth the coil and ballast resistor I had removed. Last night is seemed to be running fine, though it was cold outside, but now, I removed that one resistor its a bit warmer outside and the thing runs and backfires like a 500lb fat man. The only thing that the resistor that I had removed was connected to was the purple wire was connected to the coil holder as a ground wire I presume. No other wires were connected to anything. Not really sure what to ask, so any advice would be great. With how it is acting, and with everything pretty much lined up, all I can think of is that it is the module/wiring. Even if it was off a few degrees I wouldn't think that it would be running as hard as it is. Just a higher smooth idle or something.

Wow, that thing looks awesome. I myself am wanting another Datsun. Would like another coupe, a 4-Door and a roadster. That thing is going to look so so sweet when you are finished.

Ok, so working on the brakes last night we got a lot done. New SS brake lines, repacked the hub, new rotors and while I was installing the Calipers I forgot which way they go in. Is the bleed nipple on top, or is it on the bottom? Also, I am having an issue hooking up the brake lines. The small "S" shaped brake line from the caliper to the mount on the strut, I can not get it to fit up to the new calipers. It is too short if the nipple is on the bottom and it is too long and the caliper piston is in the way if the nipple is up top. Is there something certain that can replace this "S" shaped brake line?

Would the T point to the front, or the Circle on the other side? Might need to take a picture of this. There should only be one marker, but I see a "T" shape and then 180 degrees on the other side there is a circle so to me, either one could be the marker. Don't mean to be rudd but what is "Try wiring the cap 180 out"?

I thought that it would fire, but no go. So I need to check with you guys to make sure that everything is correct. The wires to the old to the points dizzy I disconnect from the coil. All three wires (black, red, purple). Then the new Electric dizzy I put B to + and C to - on the coil. Then, when I dropped the new dizzy in, I had the #1 cylinder up top and lined up to the front of the engine thingy where the crank is I believe it is. Then, on the dizzy, I had the circular hole pointing towards cylinder #1 fireing order. The T was pointing towards the front of the vehicle but would not fit as I thought that the T was the marker, so then I turned it a 180 degress to have the circular hole facing towards the front of the vehicle and it dropped right in so I am guess that was the correct marker? So is all of this an A+? It shouldn't be as it is not firing. I have a good battery, new Flamethrower coil 45,000 volt, vaccum tube is hooked on and I still have the ballast resistor hooked up. Could I just be a few degrees off to the left or right causing the problem?

Actually I do believe that you are all wrong. With a little searching I have found that the production ran from 1990 to 2000, not 1998. Though just for the sake of the forums, we should use only the US run dates to save on confusion which would be 90-96.

I think that he would be better off with a pimped out L24. Cam, diff, tranny, ect. That is basically what my goal is as I want to keep the same L24 under my hood. Thought of a turbo, not worth it imo, when this thing can still be a monster N/A. About the turbos, parallel twin-turbo both have their own exhaust manifold, and push the same boost. This setup basically takes the work on one turbo and splits it between two turbos evenly. The BMW 335 uses this technologly and does it good. Extremely low pressure (only 6psi, so 3psi per turbo) No lag, tons of low end and midrange power and effectivly N/A up top. Then there is seqential twin-turbo which share the exhaust manifold and there is one small turbo and then one large turbo. Vertially all V shaped engines use parallel just to make plumbing easier, but inlines can go either way fairly easy without too much plumbing. There is also another type of system that can be used, but it rarely seen at all.

Looks good. I like that you are going back to the original hood! Good man! I too am in the process of what you are doing. My main thing right now is eletrical which I am not too familar with, so maybe you should drop by and do it for me. Your only a few hours away. (Watsonville) You going to be getting the suspension hooked up before those tires? If you don't already, I would advise to get a 4-Row radiator. The L28 came with a 3-Row, but the L24 came with an inefficient 2-Row which you could possibily still have under that hood. Radiators everywhere are expensive, but ebay has 4-Rows for slightly over $200 that drop right in unless you decide to do some custom work for a diff rad. Keep up the good work!!! And welcome to the forum.

This guy has engines up all the time. A bit pricey imo, though I have yet to rebuilt my own L engine. But I wonder why he puts them on ebay. I have be looking on ebay for Datsun parts for over a year now, and every time I run across one, I have never seen one sold. What he does is cool, though I just found out about him not being very trustworthy in this thread. Its a shame, because what he does is pretty cool imo. Too bad for our community we can't trust him when he has nice looking rebuilt engines up on ebay all the time and is the only one doing so.

hybridzcar.org will be able to help you about a bit better. Though are you talking about an L24 twin-turbo? If you go twin-turbo, best route would be to pick up an RB26DETT.

Sorry, I just doubled checked and the other pin connector on the dizzy isn't on the opposite side of the module, but it is about at a 90 degree angle from the module. The pin is right beside the vaccum canister thing. (What the vaccum hose goes into)

Well I have decided not to do the suspension. Time is too tight and I don't want to be stressed out over time with something that is not needed to be done. So without needing to do that things should be wrapping up quiet nicely. Going to have the dizzy done tomorrow and a few other small minor things. I am thinking about getting a new headlight wire harness off of BlackDragonAuto for $30 as I am still having unknown issues with it and that system needs to be upgraded anyways. I am just trying to figure out how they work as they plug in directly to the battery so I need to call and ask some quesitons.

Ok cool, thanks. Does the hotter spark make much of a difference in terms of say cooling? I am still stuck on the old 2-Row which will be another month or so till I upgrade to a 4-Row. Also, the Dizzy came with two sets of wires. One for the module (B and C), but then the other wire was for a pin slot on the dizzy itself on the other side of the dizzy compared to the module. Not sure what it is, but do I need to worry about that or no? Thanks for your help. Need to get some kind of gasket sealant tomorrow and that sucker should be finished.

Ok so, to make sure that I have got this all straight, what do I do with wires when upgrading to a ZX dizzy with the E12-80 module on my 240z? I have a print out that is telling me to Ignition Box pin "B" to Postitive (+) Ignition Box pin "C" to Negative (-) Then remove and connect the B/W and G/W wires from the ballast resistor. Is this the right stuff? Any more or any less to do? Over at the Z garage it doesnt even say anything about messing with the ballast resistor so I am not all sure what and what not to do.

I am trying to be as much as I can. Right now I am not though as much. Little has been done to the car so far, and still waiting on parts. I just don't want to imagine myself being stuck somewhere I don't want to be so the more optimistic I am the better. Though I am doing as much as I can to prepare incase something does happen. Spare parts Tools Money AAA ect.

Where can I find a base backet for the distributor. I can't seem to find one and need one asap. Also seems like I will need a new tachometer... grrrr.....

Yeah, just outside of Santa Cruz. Monterey to be exact. Thanks for the info.

Well I have arrived and am already at work. I am sort of limited in what I can do because I don't have all the parts that I need. I have some things that I can do, but just a couple of hours worth of work. Really enjoying it out here, but I am also extremely nurvous/stressed out hoping that I can get everything dialed in, and about the trip. It is just hitting me of how long that drive is going to be back home. But all is good, and I am going to start having some questions. Already just posted my first problem. Though hopefully I have will have enough time and feel like posting some pictures every now and then. The car runs great, and after a couple of minutes it fired up just fine. Had to wait for the fuel to reach the engine, plus the battery had died. Plus now it starts without a hitch, and I think after some running, that my tachometer works now but still kind of sluggish, so I still might take it out to give it a cleaning. But also found out that some of the other meters don't work. I think that the fuel doesn't work and the engine temp doesnt work so I need to figure these little buggers out. Sometimes I just wished that I had $5,000 in my pocket and let people do the work for me so that I don't stress for these next two weeks. I have already stressed enough over this and it might end up killing me before it is over.

Ok, so I have done some searching, but need a little help. On the Eletric Distributor that I picked up from a 1980zx, there are some wires that I have no clue what to do with. Is there some kind of manual that someone has made so that I know where to hook these wires? Also, I just found out that I need a base bracket, but I am not sure if I have one or not, so where could I find something like this that I can get ASAP. Also, does anyone know of a Z shop in Santa Cruz area, as I have some eletrical issues that I need fixed and I am not one with electrical stuff. Guage lights are extremely dim, head lights are out, wipers don't work, brake lights don't work and the interior lights are out.

You really need to pressure your insurance company to give you all of your benefits. Have proof like bills and what not, and demand money from them. If it gets to the point, start calling corporate, and even threaten about a lawyer. Once that comes around, they will give in and give you all of your benefits, because if they don't they will just loss in court if you really do need to take it that far. Did the hit end up throwing the car pretty far? That really had to hurt a LOT. Hope that you get better soon. Maybe you could just junk the car, and put that $3,500 into your Z or one of the other cars that you have. The loss of a car sucks, but it will save you some funds for the remaining babies.

I really like the VW Lamo Chrysler 300 Fiat and Accord ones I find them the funniest, though the Chrysler and Accord made me .

I will have to give that Z car club a call out there. Going to be located at Monterey Bay Academy. That is where my car is chillin' right now.

So, I am going to be right outside of Santa Cruz (15 minutes or so). I know that I am going to be needing a lot of stuff out there that the internet may not be able to get me fast enough. So, for people who live in this area, do you know of any junk yards that have Z cars sitting about, or any Z shops/Stores that know their stuff and can get me almost anything that I may need? I could even go as far as San Jose, maybe San Fransisco area. I might even be in the Sacramento area for a day or so, so even there would be cool.

Seems like that is going to end up being a good idea. Well, several days late, I finally have my loan on its way. It is coming from my college funds that my grandmas set up for me, BUT yes I will have it all paid back. Once I get a job, I am going to have anywhere from 35% to 55% of the check be directly deposited, even after I pay it back it will be the same. Better to save up now then having to get a loan in the nearer future. So after I get the money, I have about $600 worth of parts to order which I will have posted later and I need to go to a local Chevron to get a $220 gas card for the trip home.

These have the R-200 4.11 differentials correct? Well, check out what I found for anyone looking for them. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-NISSAN-200SX-1984-1987-Complete-restore-or-parts_W0QQitemZ150196699794QQihZ005QQcategoryZ6395QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem You get two for only $500! I would love to get on top of this right now, but just don't have the funds for it right now. Sucks to have to pass this up, but I know that someone else might love this. Maybe, if someone is in the area wanting one, they could hold onto the other for me for a few weeks until I can buy it off the ebay purchaser!? Anyways, if my facts are wrong with the car and diff, just get this deleted.