JimmyZ

Have you seen pics of Diseazd's Z's front clip repairs? They are simply replacing the entire front fenderwell and frame rail. After seeing if it needs some tugging to straighten the firewall I'd replace that half of the front clip. It sounds like major surgery but it's really nothing if you do it every day. After replacing a frame rail on my Z and learning how to check my work I would probably do something like this in my own shop. It would require that you remove the engine/tranny and make, buy or borrow some tram guages. According to my bodyshop friend (shop owner 27 yrs) anything can be straightened. It's only a matter of how much time and money you're willing to invest in saving the parts. The cut and replace method is cheaper. It's feasible that a frame machine could straighten and with some tramming bring it back fairly close to original. Link to some nice measuring equipment. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/c-530-gauges-measuring-equipment.aspx 2c Jim

Finding a tranny at a junkyard should be pretty easy. I wouldn't pay a shop to do a rebuild though. They usually don't have much of a guarantee on MT rebuilds. As a tranny gets older clearances on certain parts widen to the point that replacing bearings will only provide a temp fix. I think you'd be surprised at how easy it is to rebuild a manual tranny. I've done a few MT rebuilds. My first was out of necessity since I couldn't find a replacement that was cheap enough. (I was young and broke) It's probably a countershaft bearing which has died. They ride low in the case and can easily ingest debris. Here's what you'll need to do it... Haynes manual... Invaluable info on details like detent ball placement. Basic wrenches, socket set GOOD snap ring pliers ( A must as cheapies will break) 1"x8" x 18 piece of pine and a drill w/hole saw for making a mounting plate A vice to hold said mounting plate Large crescent wrench for large nut. You can spend as little as $100 to replace all the ball bearings. Needle bearings from Nissan are a bit more but the only one you might need is the input shaft needle assy. The input shaft needs to go to a shop for pressing on/off the main bearing. (Optional) A purist would use paper gaskets but you can get away with using a thin layer of sealer/gasketmaker between case sections. It's not rocket science and you'll find that a tranny goes back together like rings on a cone. I don't mean that literally but it's not like you're going to switch any gears. Getting the shift forks aligned right might take a little doing but it's not that bad. The manual, if followed section by section will get you through it easily. 2c Jim

Do you notice if other things go off when the ignition dies? If you loose lights etc it might be the connection between your main harness and starter. The wire I'm talking about comes from the hot post of the starter and crosses over six inches to the harness on the frame rail. I had similar problems when this connection was acting up. FWIW

Jmort is right. Mine had cracks too. I ran mine and endured the deafening whine from gear noise for several years. There have been posts on HybridZ bemoaning the solid mount. My solid mount now sits on a shelf as a temporary backup. Seemed like a good idea when I bought it. Ron Tyler style mount is great!... Near bullet proof. Carl Beck just posted another simpler style mount which is a nice design too. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=31777 (16th post)

Thanks Guy, Does your friend know someone who does hot dip galvanizing? What process does he use if not? That method would be the best. With alchohol being used in fuel more and more the galvanized tank method would be king. Using RedKote was the best compromise for me. Prior to using a coating such as this I was looking into nickel plating or some other creative way to blow some $$. The galvanizing route would be cheaper and better in the end. If a tank were prepped and galvanized with some good buildup then it should last forever. If I get 15 years out of the RedKote I'll be happy. Curious, Jim PS Dnotton... Let us know how it all works out. I'm betting it's simple and not too expensive.

The Ron Tyler style mount took care of my clunk. The spacing IS different for the bolt holes so you'd have to design from scratch. WELL worth it though. Tightening all four mustache bars to torque spec is good too. See if you have a driveline shop in town. (Ask speed shop) Having the driveline shop balance and inspect the halfshafts and driveshaft would be the best thing to do. They can also inspect and shim/adjust your ring and pinion. My local shop will go through a diff for $180. FWIW Jim 2c Jim

Get under the car and make sure that the rubber fuel line which runs out of the tank isn't your culprit. If it is cracked it could cause both symptoms. When removing the old line cut it lengthwise with a knife after removing the clamps. Trying to pry or pull it off might crack the solder on the pickup or return tube. (= trip to radiator shop and a few $$$) It might also be possible that your fuel pump is on it's way out. (Rubbers are developing cracks) It might not be drawing fuel well when it has those few extra inches to work with. It might not hurt to change the fuel filter as well. A fuel pump which is spaced from the cam wrong won't pump well either. There should be a phenolic/plastic spacer between the pump and the head. (black or orange in color) This spacer gives the proper distance from the cam to the fuel pump arm. I find it hard to imagine that the pickup tube would be rusted through though. (Not to say that it's impossible) When I cut an access hole in my tank for sandblasting I found the pickup tube to be made of thick steel. The problem is most likely to be found in a rotted or loose rubber line, the pump or fuel filter. Check that all rubber fuel hoses around the pump are free of cracks and are properly clamped. It's cheap enough to replace the fuel hose so I'd just give that a try. Be very careful when working with gas and gas tanks. Don't work indoors and if you spill any fuel wait for it to dry completely before doing anything which may cause a spark. Here's a page with some pics of the inside of a 240Z gas tank. (Pics at bottom of page) http://warbuddies.homestead.com/gastank.html 2c Jim

I do a little machining but am not an engine builder like Phred. Just curious.... Couldn't you take a set of calipers and measure the valve width and compare it to bore width? Of course there would need to be a little fudge room for inconsistencies in the casting or bore spacing. Don't people use some sort of clay for testing clearances also? Curious, Jim

Perhaps the post could be labeled "Evils of capitalism and fiat economies" ?? :) OR the Thread could be "Why I love the federalized mafia so" Such a thread would make for nice non-Z education. When I see all of these bailouts and all of the numbers being twisted to somebody's idea of good spin it really makes me dread the future. They stopped publishing "M3" in '05! (Wonder why) Inflation, home sales and any other numbers which guage the economy are unreliable it seems. I feel like our generation lived at the peak of this nation's existence... just before the fall. It's almost like nothing has changed and we are back in the early 1900's... Like watching the crash all over again except in slow motion. Like the duesenberg in The Great Gatsby I plan on riding my Z through the good and bad times. Interesting group here eh? I still want to see the zupercharged Alford creation! Seriously Jim. Tells us how you really feel.

Holy crap Bob! I live in Mount Dora. Is the Z still at your place? I might drop by. Just curious what kind of 1/4 mile times it has etc. To me, it's neat to see what a "mad scientist" experiment like this can do. Jim

Your ignition timing may be too far advanced. Grab a timing light and check. The distributor might have slipped or been set wrong. The 240Z starter is pretty easy to take apart. The are details in manuals outlining how to inspect and refresh the contact surfaces. (commutator). The not-so hard part is geeting the brushed to slide on during reassembly. Just twist your tounge and it go back together. Be sure there is no oil inside the starter. (From a leak) Oily starters die early deaths. I'm betting it's igntion timing. Jim

The base of the shifter looks like a five speed. The four speeds have a casting that reaches up. Nice looking car! If it ends up as nice as your 350 it would be sweet! Jim

This is a good drier and it has a regulator to boot. ($30) http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1118 You can always take the old one apart and check for dirt in the passages. The drier is soooo much better.

No problem Geezer... and thanks! :)If the same info is coming from more than one person it can only help steer them in the right direction. Mally, The real question is how far you want to go with your stripping and painting. The first time I did my Z(19 years ago or so) I didn't do the engine bay or interior. It always bummed me that I didn't do them. Now I can't imagine not doing the entire car. If you look at what some of the guys in the club have done with rotisseries, etc it is very motivational. In another 7-10 years when the Z is due for another refresh I'll probably do a rotiss. Enjoy your Z for a while before you paint it. I became paranoid about where I parked and who was leaning on my car after the new paintjob(s). It was much more fun as a beater. Jim

If you have medium to high humidity it will rust. You are better off waiting to strip until you're ready to do the rest. You could always strip and coat with krylon if you want to see/fix any rusted areas. It is far more efficient in terms of time spent and cost to do everything at once. Here's a page I made just for someone in your situation... http://warbuddies.homestead.com/RestoHelp.html Jim

Looks like you're on your way to having a sweet looking Z! Congrats on your find and good luck.

Carl, Are you sure they are the pre 8-71 types and not just the typical 1972>on types? What I found that was most places listed it but either couldn't get the part or were just offering a 72> model. I remember Central Auto Parts could get a brand new pre 8/71 MC for around $300 though. Curious Jim

I don't think that deal went anywhere. I put my name down and had an e-mail or two then nothing. Think it was a member who knew a Japanese fellow who could get him the keys in a group purchase. At least that's the story I remember. I want a few round "N" keys myself and don't mind paying $30-$50 ea. Jim

Didn't log in for a bit and my how this thread has developed! I'll stop posting to it after this. Honestly Sblake, I meant no offense regarding your wife as being "hot". I thought that you pulled some celebrity image up and made it an avatar. Only to a close friend would I inform them that their wife was "hot". Even then one has to be careful. Sblake=lucky man Laters

Hey! I just changed to my wifey. maybe I'll get some more traffic too. Sblake is hot!!!!!!:love:

Don't get me wrong. I'm with you and chivalry is not dead. You won't find me treating anyone improperly regardless of gender. Think of each forum as a huddle of people engaged in a conversation. For the most part everyone should be practicing proper social behavior. (All forums except funnybone) When a woman enters the "boobs" thread however how can you not expect the tone to change in that "circle". This is an instance where guys enganged in boob talk should able able to speak freely. If a woman were to make a few posts of such nature to a thread such as "boobs" then she would be stamped as being "OK" to relate to on that level. This would mean no offense taken on her part. It doesn't mean she is looking for something or needs to be hit on. This is greatly complicated when a minor wanders in to the fray.

It's a very different world today. Kids are adults before they even get a chance to be kids. Young women seem to have to grow up or become more aware of things earlier than the guys. I'm a 39 year old "kid" who like to play on Xbox Live. It's amazing what you'll hear from some of these kids. To me this is the new face of the Internet. Like the disclaimer says "Online experience may vary". I've been to LAN parties and heard the trash talk, etc but it's nothing compared to playing online. It's easy to join a group such as ours and ruffle a few feathers right off the bat. (Without trying) My first posts were about POR products were a great lesson. Sometimes you've just got to learn what kind of audience you're dealing with. This site IS the best place for S30 owners to share/gain information and I'm really surprised that more Z owners aren't on it. Having women on the site is cool but isn't our group mainly guys? As such they should expect some of us to be a little rough around the edges. To me, a woman's experience on this site should be no different than if she were with us as a group in person. 2c Jim

I'm in Mt Dora... about 25 miles N of Orlando. It's been very quiet. The attachment shows the extent of my wind damage. Jim

Arne, What do you think about Cooper tires? If I remember right you used to be in tires?? Just curious, Jim

Do you have a speed shop in the area? Ask them where the best place is for headwork. (Be sure to mention your budget) Years ago I made the mistake of taking my head to an average production rebuild shop. I specified a three angle grind and got a standard valve job. They said they replaced some guides when all they actually did was knurl them. In the end they padded their bill and I could have paid a little more to have it done right. Do some reading in various Z rebuild texts and tear down/put the head together yourself. This way you can inspect their work. It's surprisingly easy. Wear saftey goggles when compressing springs to avoid flying keepers, etc in the eye. Look into shops with a Serdi machine. This machine easily makes matched machined surfaces. (Rather than a guy operating a Sioux handheld grinder) A relative of mine that did heads for years said that some people like to give a light going over with a stone grinder after the Serdi to take the burr off which is left by the carbide bit being removed. Here's a link to a cheap dial indicator w/ base. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=336&PARTPG=INLMK3&PMITEM=628-3040 (measuring valve wobble) You can make a cheap valve spring compressor which bolts to your bench. Using a little ingenuity you could even make one without welding. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24524&highlight=valve+spring+compressor Enco has other cheapie measuring instruments for such a task. Head work can be very expensive. I think you'll be surprised when you see how things add up. 2c Jim