Pete 73 240Z

A heat gun and putty knife followed by a die grinder with a braided wire wheel then lacquer thinner and scotch brite worked for me. Not a fun job no matter how you do it.

Thanks guys that makes me more comfortable with it. My tach is steady does'nt jump at all. On your fuel pump problem I got a Carter from Top End Performance that works great.

I am just getting all the little details sorted out after putting a 82 280ZX engine in my 73 240Z. I changed over my distributor to electronic with a E12-80 module. I have read many times that the 240Z tach does'nt work with this setup.But mine does and appears to be correct. I'm glad it works, but am I going to make it crap out leaving it like it is?

Great job your work is awesome

I did mine the hack saw and chisel method and I think you got a deal at NAPA after burning out old bushing and cutting and chiseling my whole suspension.

Thanks you told me what I had been thinking was in the right direction. I'm going to try moving plug wires first, if thats not successful I'll drop the oil pump.

I have just gotten my car running and can't get my timing in range with the light. I'm against the bolts on distributor adjustment and still 3/4 of a inch from 0. Am I one tooth off on shaft on oil pump. I,m running a 82 ZX motor with P-79 head with exhaust baffles cut out and smoothed, Schneider cam, headers and Weber DGVs. I changed it over to electronic ignition out of a 80ZX with a Crane coil. Anybody have any answers?

I have a 80 ZX with a 5 speed I'm parting out if you are interested. Will give you trans mount with it you'll need it. This was drivin car 4 months ago. I did this in mine out of a 82 ZX. I'll give you all of it with flywheel which you also need for $150 and shipping. Just need a few days to get it out of car. Also you might want the 3.9 rear gear that would make it work well.

I'm running a 4070 Carter fuel pump on my Weber DGVs now, I have it wired straight from fuse block to pump so it operates when ignition is on. I know I need a inertia switch but should I run another relay?

I have the exact set up you have and when the car was put on ground it's all tight. My car does'nt appear much lower than it did on worn out springs and blown shocks.

I finally got my car running after a week of parts swapping. Put a rebuilt 280ZX motor in my car with many mods but couldn't get it to run. I had swapped it over to electronic distributor from 82 280ZX had it all wired right. Thought it was bad distributor and swapped to another I had same problem. I then bought a rebuilt one from Autozone still same problem. My problem was I had the plug wires running clockwise instead of counter clockwise on distributor. I was looking at a diagram in a tech book showing crank positions which I misunderstood as distributor rotation because of the way it was drawn. Anyway a friend came over and we turned over the car without the cap on distributor and I saw the problem right away. Car runs great now still needs fine tuning. Put alot of nice improvements while looking for my problem. New coil, ignition modules, fuel pump and wiring. Hows that for wasting time.

Thanks this helps alot.

Does any one know how to test E 12-80 ignition module with a multi- meter?

Hi I'm Pete and new to the club and internet postings so sorry if I'm not very good at this. I joined this site when I had ignition problems on the 73 240Z I'm building. I still have decided which way I'm going with it yet but I'm getting alot of ideas. The forums are great. Thanks:)