rzola

1973 240 engines had 9mm bolts.

Thanks Darrel. Based on your photos, I have a 77-78 trans.

I have a bonus 5 speed that came in a junker 73 240 I bought years ago. Didn't even know it was a 5 speed at first. Attached photos of the tail. Can any one tell me if it is a ZX or a 1977-78 280 model. Any help would be appreciuated! Thanks!

Longer runners give you peak torque a lower/mid RPMs. Short runners are for high RPM race engines. For a street car the longer set up may be better for drivability.......

Hinges were hung on the body before paint, so to be "correct" paint them that way (body color). Of course plated would look cool too.

MSA now has new repro rear center bars available for 1970-72. $300 for that thin little piece of steel. I guess the customer has to pay off that tooling bill!

Your car is a 1970? Move your rear diff back. I have had both 1970 and 1971 cars. Terrible higway vice. I did the service fix update of moving the rear end back and what a major improvement! Check your moustache bar (behind diff). If it is flat, your car was not updated. You will need a 1972 or later moustache bar and a 1972-78 r180 rear diff mounting insulator..............

1970-72 used glass head light cases. The 1973 and later cars were the steel units from the factory. This is based on my experiance parting out about a dozen Z cars....... Of course collision repair parts were typically later steel versions. Thats why you may find a mixed set on your early 240Z

The brit SUs use standard threads (non metric) on many of the threaded holes and the Hitacis use metric

I used the propane torch methos on my race car project. It worked awesome, I stripped the bottom of the car to bare metal with the torch heat and a metal scraper...

Check your valve lash adjustment. I have a 240 that sat for 12 years before I bought it. The lash was loose and the motor sounded like a thrashing machine at idle. After setting the lash, the motor was real quiet at idle........

Here's what I did. My understanding of the SCCA GCR not make me belive a "Frame" was needed. I am using a Fuel Safe 15 gal cell. I removed the spare tire tub with a spot weld cutter. I then cut out additional floor pan area wher needed. I then made a 0.090 steel filler panel that fit into the old spare tire hole. This kind of looked like a big "Pac Man" and made the round hole square. I also tried to offset the cell as far to the right side of the car as possible. I fabricted 1" x 1" 0.090 angle iron steel and welded it along the longitudal sides of the fuel cell opening. These pieces are welded to the floor pan of the Z and the classis front and rear crossmember stampings Uunder side of floor pan). The angle pieces also serve as a doubler for the fuel cell can side mounting holes. I also made some 2" wide 0.090 steel bottom support straps that fit onder the fuel cell can. Overall, this mounting method should meet the SCCA GCR, and does not add too much weight to he car. I tested the strength with my 240 lb arse standing on the floor, and was very satisfied with the result!

The butthole F350 4x4 and Suburban clowns that ride your arse at 90 mph will soon be gone. People are parking the big old SUVs, because they can't afford the $100 a week gas bill! It will make it safer to drive our little Z cars....... My 240 has been getting a lot of miles this summer. 25+ mpg with a 4 speed. I am getting a 5 speed ZX trans ready to further improve my MPG...