pbatura

Thanks for the replies... Valves are adjusted to spec, and I found the real source of the noise: the tensioner is loose, so the slack-side of the chain was flopping. I need to buy a long, ratcheting 10mm wrench tomorrow to reach the bolt, but we're nearly there! Best regards, PSB

Duh... mm vs inches. Re-read the service manual. Too many late nights in the garage with cleaning solvents... Thanks, once again.

So, is the consensus stock manifold? The PO of my 76 L28 had cut the tubes off at the nut and filled with epoxy. I've got an extra manifold that I'm grinding off the nuts and will braze the hole from the port side. and will replace the current manifold. Is this a reasonable approach?

I understand your frustration, and wish I could give you more definitive advice. Perhaps one of the veterans can weigh in... Don't forget the basics, like a fully charged battery. also, rather than just start buying parts while troubleshooting, take the starter off and have your local auto parts store bench test it for you. Check the connector in the engine compartment that should be right behind the alternator. This includes a wire for the the solenoid and it could be broken. My experience in scratching the Z-itch is that patience is not only a good idea, it is required. Point is, take the time to get a shop manual, next to your wallet, this is the most important tool for a Z owner. Welcome to the family. Best regards, Peter

Thanks. Where do I start - valve springs? Best regards, PSB

I've got loud valve noise, and have set about adjusting them, but have run into a slight problem. This is a N42 head, and the intake is supposed to be .025 and exhaust .030 when set hot, .020 and .025 when cold. I'm setting hot. Was able to set cylinder 1 ok, but moving to cylinder 5, I can't get adequate clearance even with the adjuster as low as it can go. Do I wait for the engine to cool and then try or what? Thanks in advance for the help!

OK, do I really feel stupid... Figured out that I had two (yes 2) dead spark plugs. These were new Autolites, so didn't expect a problem. Getting NGKs tomorrow.

Greetings, Ya'll. I've got a problem with a '76 that I initially thought was due to bad plug wires, but after changing them, twice, and checking the timing, I believe there is something else afoot. Thinking about how to diagnose this, I realized I could use a timing light to determine if the plugs were getting juice. So, 30 minutes ago I connected it up and found that cyl 4 & 5 are not "lighting up." When I initially changed the plug wires (Accel), I also replaced the coil with an MSD Blaster, thinking that perhaps the original coil had finally given up the ghost. Outside of this, I have done nothing else to the ignition. I inspected the distributor, and there seems to be some play in the plate ("rocks") that may be causing the gap to fluctuate, but the spacing between the advance/retard pickup coils and the reluctor seem otherwise OK. The cap tests fine for continuity, and with the plug wire connected, amd getting from 10.2k to 17.4k ohms resistance, so I know the circuit should be good. Oh, and one other thing, I converted to SUs from the EFI, with carbs having been adjusted according the "Just SUs DVD." Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Best regards, PSB

Thanks for the follow-up on this thread. For the time being I'll hang with the clamps I made, principally because my son thought it was cool that I could make a part that I needed. Best regards, PSB

There is a switch in the AFM for the fuel pump, and is determined by the position of the flapper. If you aren't hearing the fuel pump running when cranking the engine, this may be a place to check. Good luck.

First, thanks to all who provided information on my conversion from EFI to SUs. It proved invaluable, as did the Z Therapy video. That being said, I am missing the original choke cable hold-down bracket assemblies for both carbs. Can anyone help me locate a set? I've fabricated a temporary set, but would rather have originals. Thanks in advance for the help.

I've replaced the FI on my son's '76 280z and replaced it with dual SUs. Probelem is that when I removed the FI wiring harnes, I lost the fuel pump relay. I had been given some earlier advice regarding new wiring for the lower-pressure pump I put in, but when looking at the wiring schematics, it seems to me that the 4-pin connector under the left side of dash, which has connections for the fuel pump, ignition switch and ignition module, would be a better way to address this, perhaps with another relay. Now, to my point, are there any sharp folks who 1) could offer guidance on this approach, and 2) wouldn't mind checking the changes before I try them? Thanks in advance for the help Peter

Thanks, Matt. This is what I needed. Peter

Wow, great comments! First, why. This has been my first Z-car project. My other projects have been Mustangs ('65 & '66 fastback, '82 GT) a '72 Comet GT (Mercury version of Maverick Grabber) and various other Blue-Oval vehicles as daily drivers. Bottom line: the FI has been a pain to work with. Too much time chasing down wiring. All tests indicated bad ECU so I got a replacement (used) and it was no good. Checked eveything, I mean everything, and I've decided to go back to what I know - carbs. With a nod to the EFI guys, my son is heading to college and I need to minimize potential problems with his car and have greater reliability. I've got a complete (well, nearly - missing fuel rails and balance tube linkage and still need them) assembly from a '71 inbound. Condition looks good, but will know when it arrives. Still need to get fuel pump - great advice on the RX-7 pump. What year am I looking for? Also, since the fuel pump is powered through a relay, it seems I would need to modify the wiring accordingly. Thoughts on this would be appreciated. BTW - I wish I would have posted this before I bought the setup, as it sounds like I could have saved some cash. Now I have a complete FI system available - from wiring harness to filter housing and everything in between. Thaks for the help. I'm off to buy the video... Best regards, Peter

I've made the decision to convert my son's '76 FI to carbs, and need to get hold of good resources to do it right. I've read a number of posts, and believe I've got some great starting info, but need manuals on proper installation and setup for a '71 SU setup. Thanks in advance for direction.

Thanks for the advice. I'll give that a try first.

I just replaced the door seals on my '76 and now can't close the doors. I've checked the clearance between seal and door, and it appears that the rubber seal is not folding back when the door closes. Seems to me that I shoudl trim off some of this seal for it to compress, but I don't want to waste a good seal. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks for the great info yet again. I recognize the wire coming off the battery and will check it, as well as the switch in the AFM. This is a great community of folks that are willing to help a guy who wanted to give his a son a graduation present (my first Z-car - didn't know). It is said that adversity provides the best education. Boy, do I feel educated...

Thanks for the great info. I'll provide a consolidated reply: Car had been sitting in a garage for about 5 years with what started as 1/4 tank of gas. Completely cleaned fuel system from tank through FI rails. Dis-assembled pump, replaced O-rings and re-assembled. Connection contacts are pretty clean, with no corrosion except on thermostat housing connectors. wiring is somewhat brittle Conducted Fuel Injection Troubleshooting Steps 1 through 6 complete. verified spark on all six cylinders Fired up with starter fluid no illumination on test light with #5 and #6 injectors (didn't do all) Greg, I'll track back on the ignition wiring, especially given the brittleness of wiring. By the way, would it be a good idea to consider replacing the under-hood wiring? Thanks for the help. Peter

Greetings. I have a 1976 280z that I've been bring back from the dead. Last real issue is the engine, which cranks, gets spark but won't start. I've tested the system according to the shop manual and the FI bible, and everything is pretty much to spec, including the fuel pump working. However, when I reconnect the harness and crank it, it doesn't start. If use starter fluid it will fire. My thought is the ECM is history. Is there a way to test the unit? If it is shot, what abnout repair? Any guidance is appreciated.

I think I hosed the relay by mis-connecting the two leads. With connectors in proper place, nothing happens. Can't locate a combo relay (looks like a combo) in Houston, but Auto Zone can get separate fuel pump / efi relays in about a week. Any ideas on what else I might have screwed up or where I can get a replacement? Thanks for the help.

Thanks for the welcome, Arne & Nate. I'm on my way to the "Beast" thread, and will connect with a local group. Take care!

Just joined the club as a new owner of a green '76 280Z. Well, actually my son and I, as I bought it for him. I've been Mustang man for 30 years, having owned early and late models. That being said, I've been in love with the Z since I got a 240Z model for Christmas in 1971. As time goes on, I will no doubt be asking stupid questions or looking for help. I've got a Haynes manual, but may need more help than that can offer. As the car has been sitting for a few years, I'd appreciate any feedback on dos and don'ts in bringing the dead back to life. Best regards, Peter Batura