2377kN

I got front and rear sun shades from here... https://www.heatshieldstore.com/car-window-shades/1975-nissan-280z-coupe The front fit perfectly, but my car is a 2+2 so I had to trim about an inch and a half from the top of the rear sun shade. Been a couple years now and no complaints.

Thanks everyone. Just learned a new term too: splined.

I'm getting ready to replace my clutch master and slave cylinders. I'll be doing this solo and am wondering about the clutch master mounting bolts and nuts. Do I need to secure the bolt inside near the clutch pedal so when I loosen the mounting bolts on the clutch master they don't just spin? Maybe I'm overthinking this. Thanks

I had Power Brake Exchange rebuild my brake booster last May. I checked my receipt and it was 120 plus 15 for shipping. It was less than a week turn-a-round. Came back great. Take measurements of how far out the pushrod protrudes. I did not to that and had to adjust it by trial and error.

I too wanted to have my antenna work with the original switch, and replaced my antenna about two years ago with a MQ-1 semi-automatic unit. I followed the work found here: http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/05/amfm-antenna-upgrade.html So far it's been great, no complaints

Got an update to my LED Dash Light Upgrades. About a month ago, the brake warning light began to act funny. It started off by glowing really dimly even when it was not supposed to be illuminated. Then it would flicker brighter when hitting bumps in the road. I checked all the connections, and looked for the relay under the passenger seat. I could not find the relay, but everything fine otherwise. I decided to pull the bulb and check it out. Turns out the bulb was faulty. When hooked up to a good battery the bulb would flicker when shaken. The other red LED bulbs I still had are way too bright so I put a stock tungsten bulb back in for now. The rest of the LED interior bulbs have worked great.

Zclocks, you might try calling z expert in Venice Beach a call and see who they use. When they did the suspension work on my car the alignment was farmed out. I tried finding the alignment results print out see who they used but I can not seem to find it.

Update: Got the brake booster back from the Power Brake Exchange SoCal Location. Cost was 120 for the rebuild and 15 for shipping. Last weekend I got it back in the car and then replaced the Master Cylinder. Ended up getting one from Courtesy Nissan in TX. Definitely more expensive than the ones from Rock Auto. Also got a clutch master and slave to replace in a couple of weeks. Installed speed bleeders, they are a nice upgrade. Ran into only one snag. I removed the drivers seat to have easier access to put the brake pedal clevis and pin back. When putting the seat back one of the blots snapped off. Was just past finger tight at that point. Weird. Was able to drill into it and back it out pretty easily. Replaced all the seat bolts. Made sure not to drop the reaction disc. But I think I need to adjust the pushrod about 3mm out. I never noticed til now after paying attention how different the brake pedal feels in different cars. In my household there is the 280z 2+2 (10” booster), a 2005 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited, and a 2018 Hyundai Tucson. The 280z has the heaviest feel, the Hyundai the lightest. Going to go though the rest of the braking system next. Rotors, Calipers, Drums, Wheel Cylinders, and Hoses. Keeping everything stock. There’s plenty of stopping power for my cruising.

Got the booster out over the weekend and sent it off to be rebuilt. I hope to have it back by Memorial Day Weekend. The master cylinder was not leaking any fluid, but I don't trust it anymore. Going to replace it. Also ordered new master and slave clutch cylinders. Gonna head to the DIY garage in Baldwin Hills, CA to do that in a couple weeks. Thanks everyone for the info, I'll update when the job is complete.

@german240, I've never had a chance to check out a 240z interior, so I can't say if the braketeer it will work in one.

Thanks for the info everyone. I called up Booster Dewey Exchange and Power Brake exchange. Dewey has all the parts for a rebuild but the diaphragm. So going to my booster to the Power Brake Exchange SoCal location. Sprayed some Kroil on the bolts and did a deeper inspection. Going to get a new Brake Master Cylinder. Looks like the only choices are Cardone, Beck/Arnley, or Centric. Any reason to pick one over the others? This doesn't seem like too hard of a job so I will probably head to the closed down toys-r-us parking lot that's not very far and do the job there. Replaced my fuel pump there a couple years back and had no problems. Worst case scenario I have AAA.

Ok then, I'll source a master cylinder as well and have a local shop do the install. My brake booster looks beat and old, probably original. Master cylinder looks way to shiny to be original. Thanks for the info Patcon.

On the way to work this morning my brake booster failed, so drove back home and parked it. It's a '75 2+2, so it's the larger 10.5" brake booster. I will most likely either send mine out to boosterdeweyexchange.com or pick one up from Motorsports Auto. Any reason to pick one over the other? Is it possible to remove/replace the brake booster with out affecting/introducing air to the brake lines? The FSM is vague and searching online for a couple hours didn't give a clear answer. I do not have access to anywhere close by I can bleed brakes, so will have to farm out the work if that’s the case.

I got my Kia motor from RockAuto and installed it last fall. Used a metal nibler to make it fit. Got it all hooked up with the factory connector and turned it on. The new motor made some noise but didn't make much difference in air flow. Did some testing and determined it was spinning the wrong direction. Swapped the pins in the connector and tried it again. Tons of air blowing after that. If anyone does the upgrade and doesn't notice a difference try swapping the pos / neg that feed the motor.

I finally got around to addressing my lack of a faster idle at start, which has been the case since I acquired the car. After reading through this thread I removed my AAR to see what’s what. At about 70 degrees there was barely a sliver of a crescent shape to let air through. Hooked it up to a battery to see what happens, and nothing. No change in the shape of the crescent. Put it back in the car and ordered the 300ZX AAR part number 22660-45P00 from Courtesy at a cost of 100.66. Price has gone up. Put the new one in the car and upon startup my car now idles around 1200rpm. Success! P.S. my car is an April ’75 build date 280z California Emissions car.