Art@NissanSport

The best car show for me is the one I'm currently or will be attending. So that puts Cleveland at the top of the list since that is where I'll be next. After that, who knows. On another note, I guess I'm different then most since I like to look at cars with the owners away so that I can really look at it with no distractions. For me, car shows are about the cars and thats what I want to see. I can talk anytime but car shows are few and far between where I come from.

Mike, the number in the ad is Fred's. At the time that the ad was completed and the mag going to the printer, Fred did not have the new number yet so we ran with his personal home number. Leave a message and he will get back to you. Also, talk to Fred about the tile idea. He is open to all suggestions.

"What's your idea of a Poker Run?" Heading to the nearest casino and playing texas holdum. Oh, and driving fast to get there.

email me at arts@nissansportmag.com and I will get you the number of someone who should have the parts and will give you as good a deal as you will find.

Was just wondering if anyone from here has heard of the event and plans to attend. Its the weekend of June 28th and 29th at Miller Motorsports Park. Suppose to have road racing, autocross, drifting and go-karting all open to the public along with organized racing events. I'm planning to hang with the UtahNissan guys who will have an area just for Nissan cars. BBQ and all. From what I understand if you have a club, they get in for free to display cars. Not sure if that option is still open. But you can sign up with UtahNissans to show your car with them and I think its free.

Opps! Hey Gus, sorry for the mis-info

top one is the locking one

Just an FYI, the 15's and 16's come with a 0 offset. The 14's are like a +10. They were specifically designed for Toyotas and are not as good a fit for the Z.

IBZINYA, PM me and I will get in contact with someone from Konig directly that should be able to help you find the rims you want. They are my wheel sponsor and I can call my contact there who should be able to get you the rims. Art

Looking beyond that fact that some people will like it and some won't is the bigger picture: At least someone is making available another option for a bolt-on rim for an early Z. And since most of the rims we have to choose from are 3 or 4 versions of a Panasport and 3 or 4 versions of a slotted mag, Mesh and turbines, I like the idea of another choice.

Man, I'm surprised that you guys haven't seen this before. The guy that did this does a lot of different things to every Z he owns (at least the ones that I have seen). Might not be your cup of tea, but he does amazing work. Guess you need to go to MSA to see his stuff in person. He goes there every year with something new to show. I personally was impressed with his 240Z with a 350Z drivetrain (suspension and all).

cool, just what I was looking for.

Some of it peels off, but most is on pretty good. I was hoping there was a spray on and wash off way of doing this but i guess I'll have to start sanding. Yuck!

quick question. What's the best stuff to take paint off of a air dam without hurting the air dam itself? Thanks

I think I just earned the brain fart award for 2008. Couldn't figure out why the car was having such a hard time starting. I decided to put in a 280ZX distributor and guess what? The Z started right up. Thing is, the points dizzy was not the problem. turns out it was the plug wire that goes from the cap to the coil. The wire had slipped back so far into the wire end that it wasn't getting a solid spark from the cap to the coil and was not properly slotted into the cap. As soon as I pulled that wire I noticed black soot in the cap. Bingo, problem found. Figuring everything was brand new and I had just replaced everything during the tuneup, it never dawned on me to check and see if there was a good connection. I did push each wire down on the cap thinking that I had a good connection to start with. It always seemed to me that it wasn't getting spark. For good measure I had my wife hit me up side the head for not seeing this in the beginning. She actually thought she had done something wrong when she was helping me to get it started when it didn't want to.

Thanks guys. I don't know how I missed the map. I drive straight down Chapman so I don't think I ever hit the tolls.

Can anyone tell me where to find the directions to getting to the park where the MSA show is going to be? I have searched their website and can only find the name. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Art

You can get around using it by making a bigger loop. There is room and it won't effect anything. And since it is hidden, no one will notice.

Ok, here you go, word for word from the article: All parts listed for this project are available online from McMaster Carr, www.mcmaster.com, which ships even fuel line by the foot. Using McMaster Carr resolved a serious problem I encountered during this repair: finding large-diameter fuel line. If you don’t have any problems procuring a 5/8” I.D. fuel line, then chances are this is not fuel line but heater hose—don’t use it! It isn’t safe to use with fuel. The hose will have a label indicating if it is fuel line. Some items listed here can be found at your local hardware or auto parts store. 1 of Part Number 7270K3: polyolefin thick wall adhesive-lined tubing 9” length, black, 1.1” expanded I.D. (used instead of grommets) 6 ft. of Part Number 5645K12: fuel and oil line transfer Buna-N hose SAE30R3, 1/4” I.D., 7/16” O.D., 3” min bend radius 6 ft. of Part Number 5645K24: fuel and oil line transfer Buna-N hose SAE30R3, 3/8” I.D., 19/32” O.D., 4” min bend radius 4 ft. of Part Number 5645K16: fuel and oil line transfer Buna-N hose SAE30R2, 1/2” I.D., 3/4” O.D., 3” min bend radius 6 ft. of Part Number 5645K15: fuel and oil line transfer Buna-N hose SAE30R2, 5/8” I.D., 7/8” O.D., 6” min bend radius 1 ft. of Part Number 54595K21: SAE 100R4 oil suction and return Buna-N hose 3/4” I.D., 1.14” O.D. 1 of Part Number 50295K33: metric steel tubing 12mm I.D., 15mm O.D., 2-meter length

The only reason I need to jump it with my daily driver is because I spend so much time turning it over that the battery starts to get weak. The battery is brand spankin new. Timing is correct, TDC is correct. Car would start ok in the beggining but as time as passed and it hasn't been started very often, its getting harder and harder to start. Once it has started, it runs fine. Its the getting it started thing that bugs me.

I actually had Steve help me out with the tuning when I first put on the new/rebuilt carbs. We got it to run really well and it was balanced. Working with him directly is much better then the video. John. I did pull the fuel line off the rail just after the pump to see if fuel was getting to the carbs and it was. Someone mentioned that I should get a cutoff valve and run it on the fuel line so that fuel would be trapped in the line. They thought it might be returning to the tank and that might be one of the problems. Not sure that would be it because when I checked to see if fuel was moving through the line, it started pumping as soon as I turned it over. What should the pressure be in the fuel line? I could get a pressure gauge and check it. Like I said, when I pull the choke on, it makes no difference. I did replace all the vacuum lines as well. What is the most common place for a vacuum leak? And with that would the vacuum change depending on if the engine is hot or cold? Could the distributor be bad? I was thinking of putting an electronic distributor from a 280ZX on it to see if that makes a difference.

Here's my problem. If the Z sits for a few days and hasn't been started, when I go to start her up it takes a long time. We're talking about draining the battery long time. Once I do get it running it runs fine and will start right up even if I let it sit for a few hours. Starter fluid doesn't work either. It does to an extent but not the way it should. Using the choke has no effect whatsoever. Basically, it feels and sounds like its not getting a spark. But it will eventually start so I don't think that is the problem. I usually have to use jumper cables and my other car to finally get her going. Once I do get it started I have to feather the linkage and find a spot where it will stay running until it has warmed up. Here is a list of things that I have already checked. 1) valves, cam sprocket, and timing have all be adjusted. 2) new plugs, wires, points cap, coil, battery, battery cables are all brand new. 3) I have bypassed the ballast resistor and it still won't start quickly. 4) fuel is getting to the carbs. 5) wires to distributor and coil are correct. If anybody has had this problem and figured out the cause I would sure like to know what you did. Any help is appreciated. I have already talked to a couple of Z gurus and we still haven't been able to figure this out.

I have a great idea. Offer to buy the car and have Jim (the owner) restore it for you. He can build the selling price into the restoration cost and probably give you a good deal. You can bet that it will be a top notch restoration. Most cars that Jim owns are restoration projects to him, but show winners to most everyone else. He would be the first person I would call if I was looking for a complete restoration.

Craig, I sent you a PM. Art

I have the rear hatch glass from a 1970 240Z. Glass has vertical defroster lines but shouldn't make a difference unless you are looking for horizontal lines. Depending on where you are in Colorado, I might be willing to meet you half way by driving it to you since I live just north of Albuquerque. We could work out some kind of deal. Shipping the glass on it's own would be tricky and there is no way to ensure that it would get to you in one piece. Just a thought.