Careless

I tried to find those a while back. I saw a set that was much too expensive so I wanted to buy the individuals locally. In hind-sight, if I had ordered them on amazon I would be able to use them right now. doh!!! The ones I COULD locate were the knurled cam-wheel type ones that require too much room to use most of the time. Thanks for reminding me of these ones, I'll have to put them on the tools list! For now, I only have 6 left- so I'll be ok.

Looking for photos with measurements for where the Intake Filter plenum box has the stickers situated. Anyone have photos of OE placement? I have repro stickers and would like to put them on soon. Once the thermostat is actually in there (just set it up for photo) and the carbs are on, I'm going to have the Smog Pump put back in, and the front bolt should be torqued tomorrow. Hoping to put the engine slingers on there too so I can put it in the car soon. I think I can get to every other part with the engine inside the car.

Won't be long now, the engine is almost complete! I know the oil filter is the wrong type. I have 4 of the japanese OE ones, and I need to replace the plug on the end of the alternator. The wires are actually uninsulated near where they go in, so i might have to take it back apart. bummer!!! just a couple small things left to do going to sharkhide the carbs tomorrow to make sure they're ready for the new Type No. 12 studs at the top of the head. some small bits still need plating, but they' be done soon. I don't want to install the exhaust manifold yet, because that would make the Air Gallery easy to scratch- it's in the way of where I have to put the studs, so I'll do that first, then install the exhaust manifold and carbs in one go. I'm shooting for Monday/Tuesday. I wire wheel'd every inch milimeter of the cylinder head with a tiny stainless brush to take the paint that was previously put on so that I can get it to look natural, and I then coated it with sharkhide. I don't think I'll be doing the overspray thing that the OE assembly showed. I know it's original style... but I think it would be a shame to do that since I've taken more care than Datsun did at the time to make sure everything is as good as I can do it without going extremely nuts. As far as I know, all the bolts are in the right place and the right size. The engine mount bolts are little odd though. I think I'm missing one of the same size, so I'll have to use a different one and hope that wherever it goes I can use a different one there too until I reach a threaded hole that I have an extra bolt for. hehe Taking extra care with every one of the RTV'd surfaces. Rather than put a bead on the surface and tighten it down with a gasket, I am painting both sides of the gasket with an extremely thin/smooth RTV coating that barely gets pushed out of the ends. It's very hard to find an area with more RTV than shown here on the valve cover cork gasket. I had another white felt looking gasket that was in the box too for the valve cover, but I used the cork one instead. Am I supposed to use both or something?

you can pop the ball-socket style linkages off and put adjustables on all 3 like the one you have on the rear-most carb. that should allow you to tune it a bit better?

'013' !!! the '012' studs are all accounted for I would also like to mention that the longer studs that are for '014' with the yoke spacers are of a different metallurgy. They seem to be stainless fasteners. In any case, ever single one I've removed from a rebuilt motor has always require extra force to get it to budge with the double-nut & double-wrench technique. Do not, under any circumstance, thread them in tightly. You MAY have to use a wrench to get them to bottom out, but that's if you don't clean the threads on the head before trying to thread them in. They should only bottom out on the head, and that's it.

Key No. 14: SHARE an Intake/Exhaust mounting Ear (Total of 6) There are LONG studs to accommodate the Key No. 35 YOKE washer. Key No. 13: ONLY for the stud that holes the rear most exhaust ear and the engine slinger (Total of 1, NOT 2 as indicated in the diagram) This is a LONG stud to accommodate the Rear Engine Slinger. Key No. 12: EVERY other stud (Total of 10) These are SHORT studs to accommodate a standard washer. Key No. 35: YOKE for all studs of Key No. 14 (Total of 6) These are THICK washers (i.e - YOKE). The confusion from the diagram is the indication of 2 of the Key No. 13 studs, whereas there is really only 1 from what I can find. I tried to locate the other Type 13 in the diagram, but it's not anywhere in the Fiche/E-Fast software for that specific diagram. It can be somewhere else on the page, but in this instance, it is not. It is also my understanding that a Key No. 14 stud can be used in place of Key No. 13 placement, as they are no longer available from the dealer. The sum of all the studs is 17, not 18 as indicated by the diagram proposed by Datsun/Nissan. I've updated the image above in my previous post to reflect the clarification.

Resurrecting this thread from the dead, but I think the photo posted earlier is not that clear, or not too precise according to the L24, so I made a diagram of what I think should be the proper bolt pattern. This method makes sense, EVEN THOUGH the diagram in the fiche/e-fast are showing the incorrect location of where I situated bolt #14 on the diagram. Their pattern doesn't make sense, especially since it says (MANIFOLD YOKE) for type #14 studs that they show along the top... which is reserved for the fat washers (which is called a YOKE/YOKE SPACER in Nissan speak). It does not make sense for #14 to be a stud with a yoke, it should be at the top of the carb where it only holds the one ear of the carb itself, and not the carb and manifold together. I present my pattern below. numbers check out according to datsun specified quantities, too (except for 13, which doesn't make sense) Seemed like a much needed diagram because I couldn't find anything that made sense, so I made one!

So after waiting for some items to be shipped, and finally getting the right timing cover gaskets (the package i had said L24, but it was clearly for something else... maybe L28) I managed to get that all together with the fresh hardware. new water pump. fresh oil pump. fresh oil pan and gasket. coated the head to prevent corrosion. added the new air gallery tube to the manifold that I painted and heat cured. The hole left from the tube nut that I had to extract seemed to tighten up nice. The pitot tube on the under side of the tube nut seems tight and the nut can't be screwed on anymore. So on monday I put the carbs and manifold on. Managed to get the rear suspension in with the diff and control arms and axles. Now that the car is being assembled, I find that the only thing I leave with when I'm done working on it for the day is anti-seize on my hands and fingers. such a nice feeling! no cleanup! New question: Engine slingers colours... I plated the rear one yellow, and managed to get a 1971 front engine slinger from a parts car. it seems to be clear/silver zinc. But most of the NOS rear ones are yellow. Were the front ones clear/silver and the rear ones yellow? or were they both yellow for 1970 and clear/silver for 1971? Any consensus on that? I have to refinish the front one anyways, so... i can change the colour of the rear one if it's not right at this point. Got some more items in the tumbler whirring away right meow. Going for another plating run soon!

Sorry, I forgot to update this thread. I managed to successfully get the plug in. I shortened it so it was barely protruding from the front side, and it's ground flat on the back side. I made sure it was smooth to the touch on the inside and level with the rest of the surface it was on, and then i backed it out just a smidge just to be safe. better to have it recessed on that bearing surface than protruding. The vane drum rotates on that area where the hole was drilled. I used some bearing retaining adhesive that set up really quick. seems like it will do the job and can be removed if needed. the outside isn't flush. the allen key would have gone through the plug at that point, or a hole would have been made through the plug by grinding it down so much. I did as much as I felt was neccessary. I am waiting on one or two more things before I put it back together. Will post pics when I do.

this guuuuuuuuuuuy. yeah i hear ya on the pump, but for full resto cars that came with one, it might be an option for people that want them to work.

Hi everyone, So it has come to my attention that Cardone does not rebuild the smog pumps up to a suitable standard, and they are only barely useable. I can post pictures to prove this theory, but it's not a theory. It's just a fact at this point that I am now well aware of. They are absolute crap. I would go so far as to say any of the "cast grey" looking ones you see online as rebuilds are all rebuilt by the same place, and they are all just terribly assembled and refinished. I have been looking into buying the necessary items for rebuilding the factory smog pump to spec, and I am wondering if this is something you guys are willing to have done for restorations. In order to keep costs at a minimum, I will have to order various parts in bulk (as that's the only denomination they are sold in). If the price of restoring a smog pump to factory look/style/finish with as many new parts as possible inside the unit, with a core charge, was around $300-$400 USD... is that something that classiczcars members would entertain? Keep in mind, most smog pumps are $200 and they are just cobbled together. Also, since the horn gaskets and hardware are no longer available, I can offer a horn rebuilding service as well. I am having gaskets cut, and locating the hardware at a reasonable price, as well as the finishes. Not sure on what the cost of that would be yet.

Will be attempting to put together the pump today. I managed to tap the hole for M6x1.0 thread. They seem pointy, so it looks like a good fit. Also got an M6x1.0 Set Screw. Going to either high-temp RTV the hole or JB epoxy it in there. Not sure yet. I do have to sand down the back of the plug because I want it to be flush on the front side. I will take some photos of what I can and what I am swapping to and from the two pumps. I'm going to go to my friend's shop right now to see what I can do to get it all good and nice and ready for plated parts to go back on.

you can do this stuff yourself if you feel good about it! just put the head at TDC and make sure the valve is closed, and use a steam cleaner and a vacuum. The idea is to steam clean the deposits and then vacuum it with a long attachment to get deep into the port. You can use one of those spark-plug hole attachments for keeping compressed air in the cylinder when changing valve springs to force air into the cylinder prevent any liquid from draining into the cylinder if there is a small air leak. steam clean for 10 seconds, vacuum for 10 seconds. keep repeating until it's all cleaned. you don't need to walnut shell blast anything, just make sure that the valve is closed. you can accelerate the decomposition of the carbon buildup by adding a chemical cleaner to the steam cleaner and going back and forth between carb cleaner and steam cleaner. I have a dedicated steam cleaner that I use simple green / super clean in, and I don't think carbon or varnish has ever survived a blast from that stuff when it's heated. you can also use a tooth brush with a rubberized head (do not use one of those clear acetate toothbrushes. they will fall apart when they come in contact with carb cleaner). I tend to avoid using anything with steel or brass bristles when it has to do with engine stuff. The bristles don't always stay ON the actual brush/wire wheel, and most of the time you won't notice a couple of them missing unless they hit you in the face/neck. Just remember to vacuum right away. Your valves may not be 100% sealing on the head and you want to mitigate the chances of liquified carbon drainage into the cylinder. This is the reason for the valve-spring air-compressor attachment. But not everyone has one. This is the one I have You can get it just as clean as walnut blasting this way, and it takes about the same amount of time.

Thanks for all the great detective work, guys! I remember when taking apart the original unit with the hole that my friend who was operating the press said "why do you need to rebuild this thing? just put a 1/8ths hole in it like all the muscle car guys do...". He didn't drill it though, . I don't think he noticed the hole either. Essentially, these things build like 8 to 10psi of pressure depending on engine RPM. They are used for small engine superchargers, like go-karts and lawnmowers. They work extremely well for that purpose too, except they do throw carbon dust into the intake due to the wearing of the wipers. A small trade off. I would presume that the hole was drilled by the previous owner of the vehicle to disable its function. A lot of them do seize up too, so maybe it was drilled to spray some lubricant inside the unit to allow it to spin freely. The unit will not work with a hole there, even though it does contain a gasket and bushing at the top that covers the hole. There would still be some leakage there under any sort of above atmospheric pressure. Either way, I will be heading to the hydraulic store to see if they have a 10-24 threaded plug I can use. Preferrably one that can tolerate the heat and does not need to be sealed with JB-weld. So that in the event that it does squeek quite a bit, maybe a light shot of silicon spray inside there will get'r moving again. I will post photos of the inside and the finished unit when I get them ready to go.

Thanks Captain Obvious (feel so weird sayin that! ) Fortunately I have enough that can be salvaged with what I have here, but I would like to know if yours does have that hole. I'm not sure if it was something for the earlier cars that maybe weren't tested or something. I dunno!

So I bought a Cardone rebuilt Smog Pump. It is indeed a Datsun unit, rebuilt. Same markings and everything... However, the inside of the unit was badly rebuilt, and really I only need the wiper drum with the carbon shoes. But even that looks like they just cobbled some garbage together. grinding marks everywhere, the front washer/bushing was hacked together from two different pieces, and the steel washer under the pulley was some scrap from victorian plumbing or something. The wipers are even worn on a weird angle too. So... upon inspected the original unit, I can use some parts from that, and hopefully it will work- but I found this 1/8 to 3/16 sized hole drilled on the front side, and I don't have a photo- but I did mark exactly where it is on this photo: Was this a hole used to bypass the system and make it not pump air at all? Or is this common in the earlier units? By eye and casting number, the units are identical... I am thinking of threading and plugging it, as the unit is in far better condition than the shitty Cardone one. Sound like a good idea?

i dunno... i'd be reluctant to spend even $3000 on that if it doesn't come with the original engine- condition being a major factor as well. everything that should be under the hood is gone now too.

I hear ya. my thoughts were that it would be too "rubbery" and absorb some of the sound. I'll see about getting some gasket paper tonight, then. I still might try the RTV because it looks like the area where the gasket contacts should have nothing to do with the sound anyways, because its the center aluminum bell that is what's ringing. Only one way to find out!

anyone have reservations about using a light coat of RTV as a gasket? i mean painted on nice and even with a paint brush so there's as little squeeze out as possible? I don't see why that wouldn't work... I guess I could try it?

Interesting. That is the only one that looks used, and it is also the one that I cleaned up in the tumbler and replaced the o-rings on, ready to go back together. I'll just swap over the reservoir and i'll come by for the cap sometime! thanks again, Chris. Update to thread: I went to the shop today to sort out some stuff that needs to be cleaned elsewhere, as I don't have a sandblaster big enough. Wondering what I should do with the quarter glass and trim... going to be putting the motor together as much as possible tomorrow, and will be posting pictures of the horn I am refreshing. Will post more pics soon!

anyone have any insight to this? can't find the original one that was in the photos provided :-(

Ok so here's what I found with the one I just took apart (will post pictures in a little bit, kinda gettin' sleepy- but I want to post before I forget). Front Housing Cover: - Steel - Light Olive-Drab plating Outer Centre Diaphragm: - Aluminum - Painted with a Dark Olive-Drab paint (camo green), not plated. I had to use paint remover to get it off. - Not satin black on this unit, as the gunmetal paint that was sprayed on the entire horn had a clear separation line- and that is lighter than satin black... and beyond the separation line is clearly a dark green colour. Inner Centre Diaphragm: - Thin highly polished steel (not stainless) - Very rusty under the Outer Center Diaphragm. Could contribute to poor sound if it gets bad. Rear Housing: - Steel - Clear Zinc Plated on the inside, which means it's not natural finish on the outside, but plated as well. Right now I have the Front Cover, Outer and Inner Centre Diaphragms, and all the removable bits and pieces inside the tumbler going for a spin. The rust on the Inner Centre Diaphragm seems to be extremely rusty. I might wire wheel it gently and tumble it again while the rest of the stuff gets plated. I am going to make a "plating cover" so that I can tumble and plate the rear housing again, while covering the internal coil elements. It will be a steel template with RTV around the gasket area to keep it sealed. I might forgo the plating on the rear housing since it's assembled, and just keep it natural and Sharkhide the exterior. As long as the finish is uniform, I think it will look good.

Does anyone have photos of the rebuild kit?

Jim, as much as I would love to say yes, I don't think the car will be in Toronto when I am completed with the resto. The client would like to have it sent to where his other cars are right now, so that's where it will end up. But I will document the process extensively with a proper camera starting this week or early next week, when I start to assemble more of the items before they make their way onto the vehicle. I was up at the shop making an extensive list of items that need purchasing in order to continue the restoration- and thus- a number of parts that I already have will be up for sale in a short time once the correct part takes its place. This week was about preparation for the following months. I will have to send out some of the items like window regs and bits like that for processing from another facility to expedite the process of cleaning/degreasing/plating so that when I get it back, its a simple means of assembly and none of the dirty work. The facility with the car is somewhat barren at this point, so a lot of the items have to be processed at home if I can do it here. But being that it's Fall season now, my father has to have his barrels of wine in the garage, fermenting. :-) I mean... his wine has tasted like various solvents some times in the passed, but I don't think that was due to me spraying stuff in the vicinity of the barrels. I think that was just his "recipe"... But I'd like to refrain from adding ingredients to something he's so extensively "perfected". Gotta play by his rules for the time being- but I'm actually off to the garage right now to make some room and to start tumbling the horn cases.

Amazing thread. I should provide grannyknot some tumbled and cleaned items to see if they differ in plating finish.