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Careless

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Everything posted by Careless

  1. Careless
    :-) thanks. On the topic of wheels, Is it even possible to find repro's of the original RD150 tires? The one on these NOS spare looks brand new, with the paint markings and whatnot too (no fancy sticker)... though I forgot to check the date (or perhaps there wasn't a date code? I can't remember, will have to check photos). Maybe I should just search for a similarily bland 175 HR 14 tire... time to do some readin'
  2. Careless
    The ATE SuperBlu I ran in my 87 Z did the same thing. Looks like blueberry juice. Was tempted to drink it once. Purple sounds tasty too. $50 bucks says it's grape flavour!
  3. Careless
    yellowing of the fluid definitely causes discoloration on whatever material the reservoir is made of- all of the nissan reservoirs i've seen have a defined line as to where the fluid sat at rest for most of its life. I thought it may be due to the fluid amplifying any kind of UV rays that may travel through the container at or below the fluid line- but we don't drive with our hoods open or off (most of the time, anyways. lol) so I don't think it's purely the plastic itself. whether or not DOT5 will reduce the discoloration over time i am not sure of, but all things i'm reading on various other resto and hotrod forums say that it does keep it noticeably cleaner- so that's something to think about. i guess its something ill have to test for myself, as long as the braking system on the 240Z can handle it. looks like it will be ok. as far as the fluid damaging the paint... my dearly beloved soon to be worked on personal project, my 1988 300ZX Turbo that has been covered in cosmoline in every corner and crevasse is a total loss now due to a leaky pair of masters that drained themselves when the car was in storage. i'm not sure when it happened, but the car all the way down the frame rail is junk now :-( This is the freshly-cleaned side, the oil / cosmoline preserved it so well, and was a bitch to clean off without any heating of the substance. not bad for an 88. you can see remnants of the oil behind the strut tower. it was much thicker than that. here it is after cleaning the driver side. err..... what's left of it. wish i would have seen it dripping before i locked it away for half a decade. it's almost comical, really. snow must have built up in the corner of the "barn" or shed it was under since it was against the wall. that driver side, front to back, is rotted to hell. the pass side better than "pretty good". almost as if it were from two different cars. needless to say, the brake fluid + my negligence, multiplied by my lack of funds to pay attention to this car really did a number on it. I think i'll try silicon based DOT5 for now.
  4. Careless
    I think I'll be giving DOT5 a try in this system mainly due to old hardlines and fittings being re-plated and reused. Much of you guys running DOT5 fluid are using it for the same reason as my main concern, which is the paint and discolouration/longevity thing- and it seems many would agree that's what DOT5 is good for. Glad to hear it is compatible with 240z braking components. I've heard some stories about older domestic stuff not enjoying DOT5, but was never sure. I'll most likely be doing a full brake bleed with some cleaning agent first, though.
  5. Careless
    So I'm getting around the point to install the brake components that are missing and to put a fluid in that does not discolour as much as regular DOT3 or 4, in hopes that it won't yellow the new plastic reservoirs mainly. Has anyone had issues with early 240Z brake components utilizing DOT5 brake fluid? I like the fact that DOT5 won't peel paint it it spills or drips, it has a higher boiling point (a bonus, really), and it won't absorb water like DOT4 would, so it would generally last longer and stay clearer (though it also won't let paint adhere if I get it on anything that is un-coated, which may be a problem if I am... careless) My main concern is having to flush the system if it starts to weep due to incompatibility. Any issues with the stock 240Z stuff on this matter?
  6. Careless
    Thanks for the contribution, Mike. I guess what I'll do is get all the suspension bits and pieces and wheels done all at the same time. Should reduce cost significantly, but it looks like I have quite a bit of bead blasting ahead of me. Though I question the "NOS"ness of the spare I have there. The 07214 spare is a bit "darker" and closer to a low gloss black than it is to a satin black like the NOS spare. The last time I had something bead blasted or acid dipped- I wasn't particularly happy with the results- so I'm going to do most of the work myself this time. So i'm going to presume that the license plate light housing is a lighter shade than the tail light panels on the cars I have. Or at least that's how it's going to look on these cars. Not sure if that's odd, or whatever. But it is what it is.
  7. Careless
    I'm almost certain this is the case with Datsuns as well, because I've tried to decide whether the TR - 7 marked bolts were also original, but it just seemed odd. I had them plated anyways. Turns out the reason I had so many from 01606 is because 00182 has them holding the intake/exhaust manifolds to the head. It seems as though they were also using misc bolts at the time. Is it possible that someone may have removed the manifold from 00182 and put on TR 7 bolts that were procured from the same place that 01606's owner/mechanic got his bolts from? Well I wouldn't say it's impossible, but considering how many cars all over the planet have never had serious engine work done, I would say it's not impossible, but not probable either. At least in my opinion. For that reason, I am choosing to go with what I have on 01606, and when I get around to 00182, I will do a bit more research and document that particular car with a fresh pair of glasses on. If it's visible, it's a detail I sometimes chose not to overlook. But as far as an entire panel goes... I'd rather have the proper color. It covers a good 5% of the overall exterior of the car, which is quite a lot in the grand scheme of things.
  8. Careless
    Not interested in buying this unit for any reason, but genuinely curious- can you store different curves in the app, and switch on the fly through there, rather than have a physical map switch stored in the distributor itself?
  9. Careless
    These pictures were all uploaded in an odd order, even though I selected "Original Filename order". But either way, the slightly darker panels are from #00182. The really light panels are from the refinished set. And the ones that resemble the darker ones are from #01606, which is the car you guys have seen me post about. The spare wheel with the white band (now yellow from age) is from #07214, the wheel that is very clean is the "NOS Spare" that's never been used. Whether that is truly the case or not, I will never know. But I can confirm that the spare on #07214 has never had the wheel refinished, and the NOS Spare colour is very close, so that alone is a good indicator for me. I deem it impossible for tail light panels to wear to the point where they are DARKER than they originally would have been considering the Hub Caps / Wheel Covers get lighter as they age (and that's the colour that everyone says the tail light panels are supposed to be, apparently). So with that in mind, I personally conclude that the TOPY Wheel colour is the original Tail Light Panel colour, and that's what I've documented, with even more samples than you see posted here, and I'm stickin' wid it. Will post more as soon as I get time so you guys can get a better idea! Hope this helps anyone on the fence about the colour of these items!
  10. Careless
    TAIL LIGHT PANEL and HUBCAP / WHEEL COVER Comparison:
  11. Careless
    TOPY WHEELS and TAIL LIGHT PANELS Comparison: I'll have to complete this thread later, I gotta get to sandblastin'!
  12. Careless
    HUBCAP / WHEEL COVER COMPARISONS:
  13. Careless
    Update: I am in the process of singing lullabies to this thread. I took over 200 pictures (204, to be exact ) of the various items I have. I am glass-beading the wheels today because I'm happy with my decision. Wheels currently in possession are: - FULL 4.5J TOPY SET including SPARE 4.5J from #01606 - SPARE 4,5J from #00182 - SPARE 4.5J from #07214 with aftermarket tire. - SPARE 5.0J, NOS with NOS Tire. Never used! Tail-light Panels in possession are: - 3 PIECES - from #01606 - 3 PIECES - from #00182 - 3 PIECES - from #07214 - Possibly Refinished, Car was resprayed - 3 PIECES - Refinished by someone else - 3 PIECES - On "Restored" vehicle done by someone else. Hubcaps / Wheel Covers in possession are: - 4 PIECES - D Emblem - from #01606 - original, untouched, with lower tab count - 4 PIECES - D Emblem - Refinished or NOS, brand new, with higher tab count - 4 PIECES - Z Emblem - Refinished or in V-GOOD condiiton, from 72 or later car FINDINGS: - ALL TOPY WHEELS have a matte "black" face, though it could be seen as charcoal. I have yet to match it, but it looks close to matte black. - ALL TOPY WHEELS have a dull, low-to-non gloss gray or silverish colour, with no metallic speckling covering the backside, and inner and outer barrel. - ALL HUBCAPS / WHEEL COVERS have the same Graphite Gray color amongst one another, with a small degree of variance (i.e. - almost undetectable in certain lighting) - ALL ORIGINAL TAIL LIGHT PANELS have the same matte "black" or charcoal colour, sheen, and feel as the TOPY WHEEL FACE (this is why I created this thread and what I was asking about) - ALL REFINISHED sets of TAIL LIGHT PANELS from #07214, the spare set, and the "Restored" car are the same Graphite Gray colour as the HUBCAPS / WHEEL COVERS - GRAPHITE GRAY colour used on all TAIL LIGHT PANELS that were REFINISHED are a very close match to the HUBCAPS / WHEEL COVERS My conclusion, which I've come to by laying out each part, and putting each other part in question over-top and trying to get the best lighting possible to show colour has led me to believe that the TOPY WHEEL face colour, which is a Matte Black face (not quite flat!) is the exact same colour used for the tail light panels FROM FACTORY as early as #01606. I, personally, cannot speak for the colour choices Datsun made for any of the later TAIL LIGHT PANELS from #07214 or later, but the SPARE TOPY WHEEL from #07214 matches in colour to all other TOPY WHEELS in possession. < placeholder for 200 some-odd photos #hatemylifebutiloveyouguys>
  14. Careless
    I got a better idea:
  15. Careless
    Gonna assemble it as is, and see how she goes! This car probably will be dyno'd at some point to have the performance figures as documentation to go with the completed resto. In the mean time, I'm going to see if I can find someone with a distributor machine who will tune the advance curve or at least give me a readout. The photos below were borrowed from Ratsun, they depict another datsun distributor that has identical governer springs. Not that it matters a whole lot, but I will assemble it as is. Those springs even look exactly the same- though it is a different distributor. #6 (601) on this chart uploaded by Chickenman shows that #6 is there twice, and only has one part number. The difference being that in comparison to the other diagram posted, it is NOT listed as a "set". It's listed as a "spring" and is a QTY of 1. So it's possible that they are available in singles for these units. In any case, I'm assembling it as is and moving on until I find someone with a distributor machine. This discussion has been insightful and informative, and i think the photos and diagrams posted could help someone in the future. Hopefully I can get this advance curve plotted and post that up here too. That'd be a good conclusion to this mystery.
  16. Careless
    paging @Chickenman's brain for distributor wisdom. So since I don't have a distributor machine, and my attempts to find someone with one locally didn't fare too well (found someone on Kijiji who was looking for them doohickeys, which was the closest i got... must look further)... I decided to take apart the distributor taking care to not damage the finishes. I will attempt to contact some other people to see if they know anyone with a distributor machine. Would love to buy one myself- been purchasing inexpensive vintage tools- but the Sun machines are a good 2500 for a properly functioning unit from some guy in Detroit who specializes in restoration of said machines with various "future-proofing" and accuracy upgrades- so that's off the "must buy" list for now. And below are my findings & photos of the internal parts. Coles notes conclusion as of this post: both governor weights are equally heavy: both read @ 25-26g (52g combined) [see photo Fig. 1.1 + 1.2, & 1.3] both springs have the same tension: rudimentary test [see photo Fig 2.1] spring/weight cam unit has different upper and lower slots [see photo Fig 3.1] spring/weight cam unit has "12" marking: D612 = 12* Max Centrifugal Advance, D606 & D609 have 6* and 9* respectively [see photo Fig 3.1 as well as full assembly in Fig 3.2] Fig 1.1 Fig 1.2 Fig 1.3 Fig 2.1 Fig 3.1 Fig 3.2 Not sure if I should just slap it together with the points and just get on with it. On pace to get the motor started by end of next month. Just gotta get some items i've been putting off the ordering of so I can save on shipping mulitple items with those ones that are needed for engine stuffs (though there's not much!) I'm still new at this points stuff. But I value the learning experience- even though I probably won't be doing this to too many distributors. Still fun, though!
  17. Careless
    I think the best thing for me to do prior to making any decisions is to take a photo of what I have. Perhaps it's the tail light panels on the earlier cars had a different paint supplier for a short time. I mean, the probability of it being so wildly different from the wheel covers seems strange- but then again... stranger things have datsuned.
  18. Careless
    Kats, these pictures are a great help. I have both styles of downpipes and the later style must have been put on this #1606 car as a replacement at some point, as it doesn't fall within the time-line suggested in your literature. I will be purchasing the available repro downpipe and muffler. If at some point I find an OE muffler I can always replace it. Many thanks for clearing it up!
  19. Careless
    Hi everyone, I'm refinishing some TOPY wheels soon, and I have an ORIGINAL unused TOPY wheel that even has the original tire and finish. Unscathed. It's in perfect condition. Now, I know the "D" emblem wheel covers are different in colour. They are more "metallic / graphite" in colour. However, I see that there are a number of listings for the paint for said wheel covers being sold as identical in colour to the taillight finisher/garnishes. I have two refinished sets of taillight finishers/garnishes, both look to be done by two different people, but the colour is very close to one another. However, I also have two sets of unfinished sets, and one is from a very early car, and the other is from #1606. Yet, the colour is closer to the TOPY wheel colour than they are to the "D" wheel covers/hub caps. Now, I'm going to be sending the 4.5J TOPY wheels I have to get refinished to match the mint original one, but now I'm wondering if I should take the tail-light finishers to get done at the same time. Any solid info on this? I understand that they could just be "weathered" and the 240z does have issues with exhaust fumes billowing back towards the vehicle when coming to a stop, which *could* change the tint of the taillight finisher panel- but it's not even close to the "D" wheel covers. Not in sheen, not in colour, not in "metallic" speckling... Were cars around #2000 or prior different than what everyone else is selling, or... ?
  20. Careless
    Message me and we can discuss further. I'm going to visit Grannyknot sometime this week (perhaps tonight if I finish a side-job early). I'll have to double check which brake masters I have at the shop- I know I got two, haven't quite looked at the differences between 'em yet.
  21. Careless
    I see that they are identified by what looks to be the different transmission mount styles. The early auto and manual cars both used the same trans mount, whereas the later ones looked different for manual and auto. so this begs the question- what transmission mount would #1600 have? the early style or later style? because I have the later style exhaust, and the 1971 car I have at the shop also has the early style transmission mount. Or maybe it wasn't mount dependant, but have you any idea which production number the exhaust merge changed over between early and late? I have both exhaust at the shop. #182 has this (left side) #1606 has this Also, amazing photos. Really great stuff, kats.
  22. Careless
    Spindle Pins are in the region of CDN $32 a piece + rubber and hardware last I ordered. So you're probably right about the $80 mark. With this tool, they came out relatively unscathed and COULD be reused, but part of the reason they're so tough to get out is that the center portion MAY tweaked a little in conjunction with the bushings sleeves having a gorilla grip on either end as well. So replacing them is not a bad decision- though the budget minded may be able to reuse successfully. I've been toying with the idea of making some tools up, but I don't quite have access to the lathe right now, so that would increase cost quite a bit- since I made this one on my own time. To be completely fair- it could be replicated with the same degree of efficacy with some back-to-back welded wheel lug nuts, and high-tensile threaded rod, which can be bought for way cheaper. In fact, you could make 9 of the same tool for the price of 1 piece of 1" ACME rod and 3 ACME gear nuts. The tool could cost about 50 dollars to make, though there are examples already available online. I just happened across this broken vice, so it was a boon for me at the time.
  23. Careless
    Thank you for the suggestion, but that's not what I'm looking for, rossiz. I am after an all original exhaust. I've fabricated many of my own exhausts, both in stainless and mild steel, both MIG and TIG welded... I know the benefits of doing so as far as durability and fitment go. What I am trying to decide on is whether I should buy the jdm-car-part/MSA system based on how close to the original design it is. My gripe with what I've been told regarding the mid-pipe is that it uses a rounded/stamped collector to make it "easier to fabricate"- which in my opinion is not how a restoration quality piece should be constructed if that's not how the original pieces were made. Sure, it probably improves performance- but like most things that can be improved upon on these cars, the original stuff (even if less desirable from a performance stand-point) is a feature of these cars, whether inferior or not. I'm simply looking for closest-to-OEM. nothing modified or performance-minded aftermarket.
  24. Careless
    This makes the car cooler, IMHO! Nice find, Chris.
  25. Careless
    Thanks kats, Those are some great photos. Though you are lucky to have found an original exhaust system. I have yet to come across any NOS piece of the exhaust system. I was ready to just go with the aftermarket reproductions at this point, though I'm not sure how good they are, or how close they are to the originals. I was told that the currently available ones have a rounded/stamped collector where the two downpipes meet, which was born out of "ease of manufacturing"- but to me, that seems a little half-assed.
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