Careless

NissanPartsDeal is not a website that is based on any actual in-stock inventory. It's quite literally a dealership that is listing the Nissan parts catalog online, and all they do is order it for you from their parts department. If you buy from site like ToyotaPartsDeal.com, which is running the same catalog management database and user interface (and appears on the footer of NissanPartsDeal, because they're linked through a software company/entity somehow), you will most likely get an invoice from an actual Nissan Dealership. In the case of ToyotaPartsDeal, it's McGeorge Toyota in Richmond, VA. All the sites that have the same UI appearance all operate the same way. In fact, most other sites that have the parts catalog Section images and item key-lists with the first 5 digits straight from a manufacturers catalog operate the same way too (though not from the same software supplier). When you order something, they will order it, and then if it's not in stock within any of the national warehouses; they say "sorry, it's backordered / discontinued". It's like ordering from a dealership with the added cost of shipping. Just get a refund as soon as possible if that is the case, and then order it from your dealer and ask nicely for a discount. You'll get the same or better pricing. Though with the current lockdown order in effect, it would be hard to get anything locally; but I'm sure the online dealers are having a bit of a tough time fulfilling dealer-based orders too since they operate under the same circumstances.

The photos you see there are of my spindle pin tool being used on one of Chris' spindle pins. Think back to all the spindle pin photos you've witnessed, and you may recall that the actual part that goes through the spindle bore is not particularly rusted to sh*t. It's always the bushing collars that hang up the pin on both ends (or the pin is just tweaked a little- in which case; god help you). It's pretty much the same on any car that has bushing collars in an old bushing pod. That's almost always where the bolt is seized. When I used this tool on the car I made it for, I had to heat up one spindle pin so that the bushings would melt inside the control arm and allow the pin to pull the collar through the bushing. I also heated the spindle cast iron itself quite a bit with a MAPP torch. The other side eventually popped loose out of the collar on its own, but really the best way to go about it being stuck on both ends is to preload the side with the tool and use an air chisel with a flat headed anvil on the other side. The combined forces will ensure you aren't stripping threads and you're pushing it in the right direction. In total it probably took me about 20 minutes for that one without having to bust out the air chisel. It seems like Honda is the only company that goes through the trouble of splining/hobbing/rifling the shank of their fasteners to allow lubricant to remain between the pin/bolt shank and the collar to prevent this from happening- but even in certain climates it doesn't prevent the same problem completely, it only allows the corrosion process to take longer to become a pain in the arse.

Yeah that's the stuff. Couldn't see the wrap detail in the photo I was looking at when zoomed in. I thought you were using the rubber with the mesh reinforcement that makes it look somewhat like diamond pleated rubber (if that makes any sense). I don't really have a link for the hose I used because I just went to the hose supplier's sales counter, but it's identical to what you got there from cohline, just that Newco has (or had) a ridiculous minimum order price for Canadian buyers so I didn't buy from them, nor do I recommend anyone buy from them for that exact reason. It's a poor business practice.

lookin' damn noice! ? for your fuel filter to fuel pump hose, and the hose that connects the rail that wraps around the rocker cover to the carbs, you can get that spiral wrapped rubber hose that looks damn near identical to the OEM stuff by going to a hydraulic hose outfitter and asking for gasoline safe hose that has no wire reinforcement. best to bring a sample with you. there are two sizes on the car (forgetting right now, but i think 5/16 and 1/4), and both of them are usually stocked as they are common agricultural and industrial sizes. they should have white lettering painted on to denote the hose type/DOT compliance- but it can be removed without damaging the hose using brake cleaner, and some tire shine or detail spray on the hose makes them come up nice and bright like the original ones. lookin' for photos but coming up short, but i promise you'll like it more than regular fuel injection hose (and it's actually cheaper)!

If you're up for making your own, those nylon spacers are available in plenty of common nominal inside diameters for imperial bolt sizes and in varying heights/lengths at Lowe's in their hardware/project drawer aisle. They may even have metric too, but I can't remember. 27 bucks isn't a terrible price to pay for the piece if you don't want to d*** around making templates and wasting cut-off wheels and running around to get hardware... though the product for sale could have been designed a little neater (just me nitpicking).

I did the same for the harness I redid, but I did it with all the wires so I didn't have to heat or stretch the boot. I haaaave done that in the passed, but I find it's best to do it near a sink so you can cool the rubber down if you get it too hot too quickly. it will "freeze" it in its current shape and not let it get too goopy. But on the Z that wasn't a problem for me because de-pinning the connectors on these is so easy if you are used to it. They're actually the easiest automotive connectors to de-pin across all makes and models. I also used the right width electrical tape instead of the standard/generic 3/4" electrical tape so the wrap would be identical to the original. 3/4" tape gets a bit too bulky or "spirally" IMHO but that's not something many people would notice anyhow, but I likes what I likes. I also had harness tags printed to match the originals for all the harness tabs, and also some other years. I matched the font and glyphs to what I would say is 98.9% accuracy based on reverse engineering the leading/spacing/tracking of each digit and the one preceding it. The only difference being that some fonts were a tad bit bolder, but luckily I had a license from a font from the same series (not quite exact, but same typeface, just different era) from a design job I did long time ago. Most wouldn't be able to tell the difference without having both beside one another anyway. They were then printed on the correct thickness vinyl and I affixed them using the OE over-wrap technique. Also, there were two or three wires on the harness that had large plastic sheath on them that are not available, though at the time I was going to buy some to test that I think I found to be the right ones- but they were tinted green. I also noticed that Yazaki provided their own wire too at the time, which I thought was cool: I almost forgot, there are some cheap dollar store electrical tape rolls that have the perfect shade for each additional "marker" colour like green, blue, red, and yellow, which were placed on the harnesses at various points too. Just remember that if anyone is going to attempt to colour match... unroll the tape first, it gets about 5 shades darker under the first wrap if it hasn't been exposed to sunlight or heat. Never had the chance to look into what each colour signified or if they were mentioned anywhere in the FSM, but I just put them anyway: The wiring is so simple on these cars, it's actually an enjoyable experience to redo and have piece of mind- and you can safely clip each wire at the very end of its factory crimp and put on a new terminal with new brass and sheaths and it will still reach all the terminating points since they weren't super tightly placed to begin with. The larger width tape helps it flex a bit better too.

1606 wheel face same as tail light garnish "chalkboard" finish when its cleaned up https://i.imgur.com/PrBZ0mm.jpg https://i.imgur.com/zUteuNL.jpg https://i.imgur.com/SqCfi1q.jpg 182 wheel face. dirty, pitted, and rusted. you can see some of the overspray shown in some of the other photos posted earlier in this thread. https://i.imgur.com/ATVYLAc.jpg 7214 spare and "NOS" spare with Bridgestone RD150 (not sure if actually NOS or not, but it sure looked like it) https://i.imgur.com/JL9yxoI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/KPbm9hv.jpg https://i.imgur.com/znzfwPu.jpg https://i.imgur.com/aql339L.jpg https://i.imgur.com/nYXWtNc.jpg https://i.imgur.com/XMdeDwP.jpg https://i.imgur.com/MFScDBY.jpg https://i.imgur.com/HrrJvOh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/q8b3S08.jpg https://i.imgur.com/jYMRNJR.jpg the colour/deepness of the black is obviously different after a few decades of life and paint mixing consistency, but the gray/silver barrel colour is not as glossy as it looks in the photos. I would say it's more "satin" than matte. it's got a touch of gloss, but just like clean enamel shell coating gloss, not an actual gloss component in the paint.

that paint colour on the face seems to be a close match to that of the tail light garnish from the #162 and the original spare from the 72 that was on hand as well, which I referred to as "chalkboard black". Rustoleum actually makes a chalkboard black colour which is close, but it is not meant for exterior applications or road vehicle use as it's not very durable against the elements. I never dismounted the tire as it was 5" as you noted and did not match the 4.5"s from the 69 cars under restoration, so I am unsure if it was over sprayed as shown in the photo above, but it wouldn't surprise me. They probably just had these stacked 6 or 7 high against a wall and just sprayed the fronts liberally with the same paint they sprayed the tail light garnishes and just churned them out. There was another item that was sprayed the same colour. I can't quite recall, but I want to say on the 162 car it was the front radiator grille that was clearly the same colour as the tail light garnish. I'd have to check photos to be sure. I'm not sure if it's just the whitebalance on the photo, but on the side view, the base wheel colour looks quite "cool" like a generic gray primer you'd see today, but on the top/down view it looks more like Alumiblast. I think they used a primer that was closer to aluminum colour than it was to actual gray primer... it would have looked really unfinished if it was just primer. I think they would have rather sprayed the entire wheel black if that was the case to avoid poor feedback on overall finish of the cars.

I'm late to the party, but just to expand on the idea; I actually swiped some RTV over the holes with my finger, let it cure, then tumbled it for a short while to remove any fine residual RTV on the face where I smeared the holes. The servo housing thickness was enough for the RTV to grab hold of and stay in place. Once plated, I picked the RTV plugs out, and picked the RTV around the threaded plunger hole that I smeared there as well to prevent acid and plating solution ingress from that area too. You can buy silicon tapered plugs that might fit just as well, but the cone shape is not ideal for retaining grip for holding them in if they are being waved around during plating agitation, and you'd have to RTV the plunger shaft anyway.

To add to this thread link, the colour that I found the closest to the INSIDE (or majority of the wheel body colour, I guess) gray colour was actually Alumiblast from Seymour Paints, which is a popular "rebuilders aluminum" coating. All of the powder coated options I had spec'd out were far too glossy or had a shine to them that was not similar to the dull faux aluminum on the inside of the spare wheels in inventory. The only issue with this Alumiblast paint is that it is very easy to rub off with solvents. The benefit to this is that it actually makes it easy to clean up if you are spraying the inside of the wheel after the tire is mounted to a fully powder coated wheel. Any overspray through the brake venting holes in the face of the wheel while spraying the inside can be easily cleaned off with brake parts cleaner. It can also be touched up with more paint, and it goes on wet and dries to the same shade as the base coat in about 30 seconds. All the top coats I tried to seal in the Alumiblast on some test pieces mixed with the Alumiblast or caused it to re-liquify and wash out or become runny, and I didn't have time to find a suitable matte powder coating formulation at the time, so Alumiblast is what I settled on using. It's probably not the most durable, but you could just buy some of that paint, coat a spare piece of metal, and then take it to a powder coater to attempt match the shade/finish with whatever they have in their inventory so you don't have to buy a 50lb box of custom powder. I'd like to add that I also spot tested some of the Alumiblast onto the inside of the untouched original spare wheel and you could not tell where the spray line was. So that's the best indication of how close Alumiblast comes in terms of paint accuracy.

FWIW, if you have an extra megasquirt relay box, you can make the same CAN AM box with a bit of fiddling, but for the extra 30 dollars you get a more "Nissan focused" product from them, if you want to call it that. And you support small business. Win win, IMHO.

yeah, the P.T. or Cone-lock nuts are deemed non-reversible, and thus non-reusable if removed... Jam-nuts or nylocks are a much better replacement. Thouuuuuuuuuuuuugh I usually test the PT nuts for larger threads like that by using a stubby wrench. If it's very hard to turn with my palm as the only way to make use of what little leverage there is, I'll reuse them.

regardless of bushing type, you should always do a bolt check after a few hundred miles. after installing poly bushings on the front and rear of my z31, the bolts definitely loosened up after a week of driving around.

When I was with grannyknot in the garage and he was showing me this latest moderfication, I had mentioned that as well- but he brought up a good point. you could just loosen the nut on the bushing end and it will spin inside the bushing cup when it's being elongated or shortened. If it had a bracketed or cross bolted round bushing of some kind on both ends that required removal and refitting to adjust, then a turnbuckle would make more sense. I was thinking of my 88 Z31's tc rods and turnbuckles the whole time for some reason so it didn't dawn on me until he mentioned it. you would end up with a deviation from any kind of bushing compression setting you had if you change the effective length of the tc rod... but you could get real close by estimating how many turns of the ratchet were made to loosen the bushing nut... ... or just use german torque specs (gootentite), since he has a german power-plant now. I hear he's even traded most of his JIS tools for that yucky cumbersome DIN stuff now.

Chris, did you thread the side that was welded + turn it a few threads into the coupling nut or turn it down in diameter so it has a peg that slides partway into the coupling nut- or did you weld them face to face?

I did the same thing with the lines/ you'll probably want to cap the lines off with rubber vacuum caps.

did you happen to rock any of the valves side to side or manage to check the openings of the valve guides at all with a caliper or something to check stem clearance? I was wondering if the front 3 cylinders had poor valve guide clearance, which can contribute to a tiny bit of oil getting in even if the valve seals are new.

In your photos of your quarter windows- the top-rear "corner" of the installed passenger side looks like the seal is folded in behind the corner piece. Looking at the '71 I have here, I don't even see the screw tabs, and there is no gap whatsoever- and the seal is even all the way around. Did you put the little rubber shims in that area to puff it up and get a good seal there? Perhaps your seal bunched up in the corner and now the window won't fully seat. Doesn't the interior panel kind of sneak over the tabs anyways, and but up close to the window to cover them? I haven't taken the '71 interior panel off yet, so I won't know for sure if it's painted until I do (maybe tonight).

RE: Quarter window install I was looking at photos of the two cars that are here... 1969 and 1970. I don't see any painting of the body contour/lip that holds the window frame in, though the tabs that the screws bolt through are not visible on the 1971 so they may be painted black on that year- that particular 1971 car has been painted at least once... is that something they did on the 71's or late 70's, perhaps- or it just a recommended thing to do for aesthetic reasons if anyone happens to take the windows off to replace the seals? Within the early 1970 pictures that were provided to me as it was delivered, there are a lot of things that are different as far as black paint goes for hiding bright body colour portions that show through on the interior/exterior. I think I am going to go with the photos provided at the time of disassembly for this particular case/car. When I get around to the 1969 car, that one will have a bit more attention put towards the body/finishes. The 1970 has had some weird stuff done to it. I like what I see here, motorman7! lookin pretty damn noiiiiiiice!

Are the holes on the long shim identical on the one side so that you can use another long one and just cut it a bit longer than the short one so it can be bent over the edge between the main cap and oil pump mount? In any case, I am glad you found out that what seemed to be the cause of the bearing failure was as apparent as it turned out to be and the shim seems like a dead give-away to me- that's a good thing IMHO! Having to rebuild an engine again sucks, but I'm sure you agree that not having a single clue as to why it f'd off in the first place sucks even more!

IMHO- quite the contrary. if I were to count the number of cars I was under or half-way into when I said "How did someone get a pay-cheque for designing this?", I would say German cars top the list. Completely unnecessary parts with exaggerated importance in a lot of places. Most of their "afterthoughts" are the product of subsequent "overthoughts". If anyone would like to give me a good reason as to why Porsche would use self-tapping sheet metal screws to secure cam phasing solenoids to the cylinder heads on some of their more recent engines- I'd like to also know what time and day of the week they decided that a common DIN metric threaded fastener wasn't sufficient enough as it was for the passed 30 years when used for the same purpose. I don't think I'll ever get a good enough reason as to why that is. In this case, BMW could have easily designed these shims with material near the oiling hole just a smiiiiidge longer and bent over the between the main cap and the oil hole flange. It looks like it would fit there without issue and prevent it from spinning... I'm actually not surprised it's done this way... as per my comment above. They're great engines when they're running in tip-top shape- but there are certain things I would never forgive an engine designer for implementing. BMW has other types of shims for other motors, apparently. They span from one side to the other: I wonder if they will work as is. Even if they don't quite fit across the crank like on this particular motor, I'd use these instead and just cut it to an appropriate legnth so that it has a tab to bend over. Should be easy with tin-snips/shears.

what did the previous guy actually do when he rebuilt the engine? just resurface the head and check the clearances and replace bits and pieces? any head work? for 1, 2, 3 oily cylinders- use flashlight in the intake and exhaust ports. check for oil or sludge build up on the valve stems or on the backs of the intake valves. perhaps leaking valve seals or worn valve guides. One thing i noticed in your head/block photos... that head gasket (whatever make it is)... before you reorder it or use the same style, have a look at what the OEM BMW one looks like. The block and head pattern for those areas on the exhaust side seems to differ from the gasket, and if those pockets are used as cooling chambers to be filled with oil- I can see the head-gasket being "poorly" designed in that regard. If they are to be filled with coolant, I'd say they are even worse. The OEM BMW gasket is designed with a lot more attention paid to that area of the engine. anyways- forget all that. when we turboing this thing?

while that is physically true, the more important thing to keep in mind is the oiling priority of the engine. the technical service manual should have an arrow-drawn diagram in the engine lubrication or oil pump servicing chapter that shows what gets oil first... it's not the same for every v6 or i6 or v8, etc- even from the same manufacturer. they've all experimented a lot in the last 40 years. some dual overhead cam motors see oil at only one the cam first- before anything else, then it gets pumped down to the crank shaft, and then back up to the other camshaft. some see oil go through the entire crankshaft, and then fed up to both cams through the rear of the motor, and then oil is fed through the hollow cams, lifter guide plates/valve cases, or oiler bars- and any residual oil is then dumped into the timing cover. race-minded engine designs are typically crank-priority oiled. it's a safe bet. but I would check to be sure. I hope you replace the oil pump while you're in there. there is too much of that bearing in the pan for it to not have gone through the pump at least once (how many times it went through would depend on where the oil filter is in the priority oiling system as well)

I'm looking at the wiring harnesses I have here for 1969 and 1970, and for the life of me, I can't determine what the original colour of the transparent rubber/plastic terminal insulators are supposed to be. Some of the larger ones from, say, the interior where the parking brake switch is seem to be of a greenish hue, even when cleaned thoroughly. Yet a couple of others that are the same dimensions and for the same type of crimp terminal look more like an amber colour. Then there are some that are just so burnt from possibly engine bay heat or UV discoloration, that they are closer to brown- so I'm not sure if they were ever amber to begin with. For this car I'm most likely going to just use the clear ones as they are, but I was thinking of buying the insulators in bulk and dying some just to give the next harness that extra little touch. But since some people go for the black over the clear where necessary, I figured it's only fair that I poll the members to see what they know aboot it. Anybody have some solid info on these thingies?

definitely looks like low gas output welds. perhaps you have some particulate and metal build up from previous welds stuck in the mig nozzle gas ports. you can tell there is some gas flow, because the surface of each weld "bulb" does not have cratering or pitting from being completely unshielded. If you had no gas whatsoever, it would look like burnt popcorn as zinc and rubber make their way to the surface and pop out of the molten metal. I wouldn't chalk it up to skill at all going by what I see. I've made similar welds on non structural items only to realize during cleanup time that the MIG cart's wheel was sitting on the gas hose. fun day, that was.