Careless

Good info, but I need to point out that my question is regarding the springs themselves- and not how they are set. I don't have two different springs in the D612-52 distributor. I will be using your tips to set it up and configure it once it's all together- but I need to know if the springs being the same is a normal thing... Could the ramp-up you described on the Non-Emissions distributors be cancelled out by two same-part springs on the Emissions versions? I am not sure if this is normal. It's never been taken apart prior to doing so myself. In the mean time, I'll see if I can get a photo of it later today. Gotta do some running around!

Hey friends. So I was finally putting in a new set of points for the Distributor I've restored and cleaned up... and while flipping through the FSM pages, I came across the distributor weight governor springs portion- and something is off here. The distributor I have is an Emissions Control spec D612-52 model, as opposed to the D606-52. I believe it is the original one that came on this Jan 1970 car. They differ slightly, the D612- as far as I can tell, has distributor cap clamps that are two piece, and use a small bracket that holds them onto the body of the distributor- one of the small plated brackets has the cap alignment square that makes sure the cap only goes on one way- whereas the later style ones have it cast into the body itself (you could theoretically swap the two bracket positions and install the cap incorrectly on the one I have. Anyways, that's neither here nor there, just a detail on the version I have to avoid confusion or if it relates to the issue I'm having: The governor spring assembly... On the spare distributor from the 71 (later style, cap can go on only one way) that I took apart to look at, the governor springs have two different tensions and are visibly different. This is indicated in the FSM: On the distributor I've rebuilt, the springs are the exact same, and there is no difference between the two, except for #3 and #7 in the diagram- the circular end and the rectangular end. while situated at top dead center (on a bench, mind you)- I put the cam plate in and verified that everything looked like the photo shown, even the small start/end advance angle gap on #2... but the springs are still bothering me. Is this part of the reason why they were "Emissions" style distributors? They didn't advance the gap due to offset weight distribution? Should I be concerned? I am new to points distributors so I am having fun putting it back together, but I'm not sure if it's going to work well. I'm going to try it with the oil ignition coil when I get the car started because I don't want to damage the NOS ignition coil.

Interesting. So it's closer to the bitumen roof underlayment than I had previously suspected. Now if only I could borrow some templates...

I do know for sure that there is a tar mat on the transmission tunnel. I don't think there is any on the floor boards right now. damnit. I don't even have a reference for that stuff at this point.

Hi Chris, So the Glisten will tolerate petro distillates just fine? Can the Glisten be "repaired" or recoated on the spot without total removal? I think I remember you telling me it was a 2 step process? I did notice that Sharkhide will not tolerate SOME aggressive cleaners. Brake Cleaner brands are hit or miss. Some remove it, some don't. Some make it sticky. Can't make a correlation between chlorinated or chlorine-free types, as I had mixed results. Carb cleaners as well, some make it sticky- some remove it completely. Wax and Grease remover seems to work well if you screw up a part- but I found that both items need to be at a certain temperature for it to "activate". If you attempt to do it while it's extremely cold, it doesn't work well. Almost as if the Wax & Grease Remover is "dormant" and the Sharkhide is too "tough" at lower temps for them to work (or fight) with each other. It has Toulene and Xylene in it, which I gather is what keeps it liquid while uncured. But the interesting thing is that sometimes it can be shined up without wiping it off or removing any of it... simply by smearing a light oil over it. I tried with ACF50 and it seemed like all it did was enhance it's shine. I removed all the ACF50 from it, and it just looked as it did when I applied it. I tried this over a spot that had a Sharkhide drip/run so I could see how much of the coating it would remove, and it didn't do much. My current findings: Aromatic solvents seem to be the type of distillates that will completely remove Sharkhide. Naphthenic solvents don't seem to do much unless it's a high concentration- though I need to test more with that. Paraffin solvents like hand lotion and moisturizers can literally be used to shine the Sharkhide.

Hi everyone, I am about ready to start the interior restoration process of the early Series 1, 1970 240z... and I am curious to know if there are going to be any "gotcha!" moments when installing things on the bare painted chassis from the ground up. There are literally no parts on the chassis interior. I've made a list below. If anyone has insight- that's be helpful! 1) I am not sure if I should use some sort of sticky tape to make it removable at some point, or if I should do it how they did it from factory and glue it down. Suggestions? 2) What should the general order of things be? Should I put down the transmission hump pieces first, then put the firewall insulator, and then the rear towers? 3) Wiring? I haven't taken apart the '71 parts car to inspect the routing, and I'm afraid to pull it apart since it's all complete. I'd like to keep it relatively intact so that it can be sold afterwards, because I haven't really taken any parts from it, as they required just as much work as the car I'm restoring- so if anyone has pictures of wire routing, that'd be nice! 4) Are there any sources for carpet Jute padding that is similar to the OE stuff. Slightly brown rather than recycled coloured/grey bits? I know it may be harder to find, but I find that it looks a little more authentic- though the grey stuff is a viable option if it's the only one. lol. 5) If purchasing the Jute padding- what is the OZ/Thickeness required for the datsun. Every piece I try to measure looks either impacted or frayed apart, and I don't think it's a suitable comparison. 6) I'm completely lost as far as the individual foams and whatnot that get attached to the air ducts. I have some 1/16th thick foam at the shop with some adhesive backing on one side, though I'm not sure what it's for. I believe it may have been used for quite the same thing- so I might use that. It looks "squishy" enough and not overly spongey so that it would impact fitment. Are there any certain foams required for other parts? I'm not sure if the info in Wick Humble's book is adequate, I'll have to double check in the mean time. Any general information regarding the interior dressing and preparation as well as any hidden tricks or terrors would be awesome- and please post any pics you like.

I am trying to avoid painting things as much as possible. I don't like using paint for items that weren't coated from the factory. I think one of the only items I've painted that was supposed to be raw was the exhaust manifold. Paint is my least favourite friend when making metallic things look nice. That's why I didn't paint the calipers, and painstakingly removed the paint from the cylinder head. It turns ugly over time and it's not easy to clean. So no paint, if I can avoid it.

just to clarify, the rust on welds and seams are those on exhausts- the heatshield i have does not have any weld seams. that, and the tubing i've bought in the passed that does end up like that is sold as "aluminized tubing" lol... and you're right about the cut ends. even slicing a piece of pipe and leaving it in a room with the right amount of moisture will cause it to bleed rust from the end of the pipe.

Yes, I'm beginning to think it's actually aluminized as well. It looks like most aftermarket exhausts after a couple of years (with the exception of weld joints and the pipe seams that turn rusty brown). I think I'll try to use an abrasive blast on the current shield and ask my plating guy to do a dull plating finish if he can for this particular part. That is if I can't find someone who does aluminizing (which i am going to look into tomorrow).

They are definitely not aluminum as far as I can tell by both of the ones I have with me. I'll have to double check, but I do recall one being stuck to a parts-tray with a magnetic base at one point while shuffling things around in my garage. I just checked the 71 parts car and tried to scratch off any cold galvanizing compound i could pick at with my fingernail and nothing came off. i believe it is clear zinc. I will have to sandblast this one for the 3rd time now. sheeeeeeeiiitt

my coil bracket and wire clamps are indeed replated clear zinc, with the help of some photos provided by 26th-z, I was able to make that decision on their factory finish. I just found the heat shield somewhat odd. Maybe I should re-blast it and have it plated clear zinc. Please let me know what you find.

does it feel as though it's coated in any way? or was it zinc plated?

I'll be putting in an order of bushings this week as well as a bunch of other non-dealer parts. The bushings don't need installing right now. I'm going to torque whatever I can and then remove/replace the bushings when I have some downtime- so that means I also have time to borrow a friends dimple die set and see if it will flare over the bushing when I get to that. I've gotten some conflicting info, rather- i found conflicting issues regarding the heat-shield under the carbs... The one I was given by ztherapy was coated in the matte-grey looking cold galvanized coating, which I have a can of at home that is an exact match. However, the photos I've seen are not anywhere near what the matte gray Cold Galv coating looks like. It looks more like Bright Zinc Cold Galvanizing (which I also have a can of). Can anyone confirm what the original finish of this part might be? The current coating is like this: The coating I keep seeing on other heat shields is like this: :-/ not sure what to use. leaning towards the second one.

Anyone know what the 55476-N4300 bushing looks like? I don't want to order another part that the dealer won't allow me to return. The clutch disc superceeded and cost me 150 bucks :-/ EDIT: nvm, found a photo:

The part number I gave to the dealer does not work. which one of these ones did you use to order it?

Hey guys. So I'm looking around for bushings for the rear moustache bar. Are there any sources of the older style ones? I also have to replace the front and rear control arm bushings (except the inner rear, already did those) at some point in the future. For now I'd just like to order them. Those can be had from Nissan, so I'll be getting those on order tomorrow. But I'm more concerned with the mustache bar ones that I can't seem to find. Does anyone have a source for those? I know they have to be flared on the top, so I have large dimple dies that I can utilize one half of to curl the top over. I've been slacking on pics, but I managed to get pretty much everything under the car installed except for the driveshaft and arrestor strap. I will be using the original arrestor strap that I refreshed to look brand new, as I don't like the goto-band or the replacement ones from Nissan that look like supercharger gilmer drive belts. I'll have some pics soon! Promise!

I'm way passed that point, bartsscooterservice! I've already coated the items in sharkhide, so that's what they'll stay like. Not overly glossy, just the right amount of sheen. As for the clutch situation. I managed to install the new crank seal, pilot bushing, and reinstall the backing plate (scatter shield), dowel, and put the trans on with the clutch bits and transmission parts all squared up. The only issue I seem to have is that the throwout bearing collar that I do have is neither of the 4 used on various S30's... (I have a picture below). it WAS the one that came out of the vehicle because the wear pattern on the throwout bearing that I removed from it matched the one on the pressure plate. So I think it should be compatible. It just feels like there is a little bit of play in the fork before it makes contact with the pressure plate diaphragm. Time will tell, I guess. It's not the worst thing that could happen if I need to replace it. At this point I need to move forward with the rest of the resto so I am choosing to try this one and see how it goes. In fact, I'll be putting the motor in today, so it was a necessary step to just get it on there and hope that it operates as it did before the car was taken apart. backing plate, new seal, and new bearing installed. I drove the seal in just a hair further than the one that was there, as i felt as though it was riding on a portion of the crank that looks to have been running a seal for 40 years, so the trick there is to drive it in about 1mm further (well within limits) so that the portion of the crank it seals on is of original size. Here's the OEM pressure plate, with some marks I made while removing and reinstalling the balancing weights. the top marks indicate the group, the single dots indicate whether it was completed or not. Nothing special, just my method of doing things. 30210 imprint, looks somewhat like 3G21D, but 30210 are the first 5 numbers of the clutch pressure plate part numbers: AMPCO stamping (upside down) - an original driveline component supplier for the early models. Extremely faint (probably due to the sharkhide diluting some of the ink stamping), It is (or was) a circle that reads P in the 12 oclock position, A in the 6 oclock position, and REBUILT across the middle. The R, BUI, and T were distinctly visible, so I played wheel of fortune on the other letters. Here's a shot of Group 2 of the balance weights. This group had a single rivet with no weights attached and no sign of weights or markings from corrosion around it, so I suspect that the weight of the rivet was all that was needed. Is this rivet the same weight as the one installed from the factory? probably not, but one came out- so one goes back in. Rivet on Rivet contact. You can't see it clearly from here, but the edge of the rivet on the pressure plate contacts the disc sold to me from the dealer (the STANZA disc from valeo). A "Z" stamping on the inside of the pressure plate under the spring diaphragm (COOL!), and would it not be for the rivet/rivet contact, the captive tabs for the hub springs would hit the 3 flat portions of the cast pressure plate friction surface. New Stanza disc: Nearly Identical to the ATSUGI disc that came out of the car in dimensions, but with minor differences around the springs: Tons of clearance from both: Stamping ID's on the disc: ATSUGI, 30100 (first 5 digits of the part number group), and F225DC (225mm) Good idea of the taller hub splined section: Shorter hub splines on the ASCO replacement disc. Still plenty of engagement. Top side fastener comparison (looks very alike!) Bottom side (also quite alike!): Disc installed using an old tool I had from my Z31 300zx disc kit. Nissan uses the same 24T spline for just about every transmission assembly (which I think is shared by subaru), so it worked well. flywheel installed, torqued to 100ft.lbs with a smidgen of blue loctite and some hash marks for future reference. I generally don't draw a line across the entire bolt head, but I don't know what I was thinking at this time. Doesn't matter. It's not important, really. Now I know this is getting reallllly nitpicky, but i put some sharkhide on all the areas of the pressure plate that does not come in contact with the friction pads. I hate rust. I try to hold it back for as long as I can. If the very thin coat of sharkhide will prevent that from happening, then it will go on. For this type of stuff, I use sharkhide that i've dipped into some various brushes into, so while the sharkhide itself is a tad less "transparent" than fresh fluid, it does the job and won't be seen anyways. Don't have pics of the Pressure plate installed, but here is one with the throwout bearing collar I had, with measurements. (visually different in outer shape than the 240 one... I think it's from a 240sx. But it did come out of the car because the bearings matched the pressure plate wear. Time will tell, I guess! As for removing the pilot bushing. I've had mixed success various ways, and some are not suitable for certain engines. I'll explain below: Removing with Hydraulic / Grease method works but it's a little messy and requires a amount of force to generate pressure (bad for thrust bearings). Removing with Wet Paper / Bread method works but also requires a considerable amount of force to generate pressure (bad for thrust bearings). Using those two methods are suitable for a number of vehicles, or in a pinch- but also not suitable for those which have plugs taped into the back of the crank input shaft hole. Some are not just drilled, some are sealed. Popping that press fit plug seal out is bad news for a lot of reasons that I don't need to explain. Using various pullers is sometimes convenient, but there are some that don't like Nissan bushings being that they're extremely thin. I've rented a couple of the tools from auto parts stores, and found that they work with modification- which I will not do on a rented part because I'm renting it so I don't have to own it. There are ones for motorcycles that work exceptionally well for small bearings and bushings, but again- money. time. ordering. waiting. no way!!! Cutting it is also an option. You make a small slot on one side of the bushing with a fine tooth hacksaw blade. It just takes a long time. I don't enjoy it. And I only had a jig-saw blade with me that was a little too course. I got through a considerable amount of bushing material before realizing I couldn't cut the back of it with the coarseness of the jigsaw blade TPI. So I figured I might as well mimic a puller, and to date- this is the best trick I've found for these thin nissan bushings in particular, and literally took about 4 or 5 minutes to concoct and achieve success: Shove a bolt head in behind the bushing. put a large wrench over the hole, shove a pick or an allen key next to the head so it doesn't pop out or spin, and then just stack washers on the bolt threads, and tighten them down with a wrench/ratchet. The bushing just slides right out. And believe me, the slice down the middle had nothing to do with it. It was in there. I couldn't even spin the bushing with a couple of chisel hits even after all that cutting (as noted by the small deformation at the front edge of the cut). The back of the bushing was still much too intact to relieve any tension on the bushing to crank interference fit, so I'd say my new found method did the trick quite well. Sooooo that's my update from yesterday. More today hopefully.

Yes, that's how the calipers look right now, and they are all assembled and ready to install. The hubs, however had clear signs of OE black paint on areas that were not masked during recent painting. And it looked kind of like flat black, but I assume it was satin like the rest of the items- just weathered down from old age, so I just resprayed with satin black. I will have pictures to show soon. Going to my friend's shop now because I need to expel some energy into cleaning up some parts and putting things together. gotta bake some painted goodies too.

that's the idea, Chris! had a minor setback today so I didn't end up going, but I'll be doing some garage things @ home and then going there on monday ready to get at'er again.

Thanks for adding the pic here for reference, Rich. Would have been nice to have an original disc with the box to add to the build for originality, but the replacement disc will have to do. In the future it can be changed if there's nothing left to do. The one thing I noticed with the replacement disc was that the splined section that sticks up above the hub itself is a tad bit shorter, but I think even the clutch kit ones are the same. It shouldn't create any issues, as i'm sure there is more than enough engagement area on the hub. All Nissan's I've installed clutches onto grab the splined input shaft with splines showing passed both top and bottom of the splined region. So aside from this disc not being exactly OE, I think it's gon' work! Bit of a set back waiting a week for it to come in Thanks bart, I just gave 'em a quick splash with some satin black (or semi gloss, i can't remember now) and put the new BR6 and BR2 bearings and races in and filled the grease as per the manuals specs before throwing in a new rear bearing seal. I am waiting to drop the chassis onto the motor now before install the front uprights and then the rest of the items. Everything is so clean and ready to go on. I'll probably be doing that starting tomorrow and finish on Monday or Tuesday. Then onto wiring + interior while the rest of the cool items are on order.

Being over 4 decades old, the original pressure plate rivets that hold on the balancing weights barely had any rivet head left on them due to galvanic corrosion. I would expect that the steel would be the item to disintegrate over time first if it were on sheet steel, but the pressure plate is much thicker and the only reason I could come up with for the OE rivets having barely any rivet head left over was due to the thinner aluminum corroding to nothingness sooner than the steel pressure plate- the blasting process that was used on the pressure plate must have removed most of what was left of the rivet heads. I didn't feel comfy with those spinning at 2000+ rpm at any time. Some were far gone worse than others. They were so gone that they looked like a stain on the pressure plate steel, or like a solder smear, but drilling them out showed that they were indeed aluminum. I replaced them all by doing one group at a time, and marked each hole in each group, and cleaned underneath each weight using a fine wire wheel and also cleaned the weights themselves (probably reduced the weight a smidge, but whatever!) I believe the original pop rivets were closer to 6mm, but the retained mandrel head of the 3/16 in. (5mm) rivet once popped into place is the same diameter as the OE ones, so it tightens up real good. They're not going anywhere. I was satisfied with the tightness of the weights and the way the rivets appeared when installed. In other news... the clutch disc I got from Beck Arnley is an old (but not asbestos lined) disc made by ASCO, which is Aisin Seiki COmpany- an O.E supplier to Toyota, and the disc is indeed made in Japan- not at their new Thailand facility. The clutch disc is very close to the one that came out, and it clears every rivet great, and it has the Nissan clutch spline (24 tooth). So now that I got that, I'm going to take it to the dealer and see if they'll refund or credit me because the clutch disc I got is for a Stanza- just like the one Nissan gave me, and specs for the same application... sooooo I'll take what I can get. The original pressure plate is an AMPCO (I can veryyyyyyy faintly see an engraving on it, but it's definitely there, and matches the AMPCO on the O.E disc). I'll try to take a photo of it, but it's just going to look like bead blasted steel. This is a screen-grab of the same pressure plate (note the 3 flat areas with 2 rivets each) in the 1970 FSM, which is a very unique look for 240z pressure plates as far as I can tell, and is a clear indicator of it being the OE style to use with the "A" style long body collar. There is also an inked stamping... it is a 1 inch circle, with P at the 12:00 position and A at the 6:00 position, and running in between the two letters it says REBUILT very faintly and in small letters. It guess the unit was serviced at some point. I am going to double check it with some gauges tomorrow to make sure it's at least close to max spec. I'm sure it will be. Will post pics during install and of various parts of the components for documentation.

I've done many clutch jobs in my day, not on S30's, but on Z31s, 350z, 370z and many other non-nissan cars, including plenty of older domestic cars... All with my back on concrete, mind you- but nonetheless it was easy to see while test fitting. I am aware of the hub direction when installing, so that is definitely not the issue. Either way, I tried it upside down anyways, just to be sure. I had bought the disc at first and compared it to the old one, and even placed the protruding side of the hub into the pressure plate, and it was all good. But when going to do a final check before putting the scatter shield and flywheel on, I was inspecting the parts. The disc DOES indeed go hub-first into the pressure plate, and the friction pads do touch the pressure plate surface... However, when turning the disc, there is about 5 degrees in either direction (CW/CCW) before one of the rivets on the hub contact one of the rivets on the pressure plate. I thought at first I could get by using a grinding disc and just nipping a bit off the rivets, as they are much thicker than the ones on the old OE disc, so a 1/16th off the rivet would barely make it any less rigid and provide a long service life, but then the bent tabs that hold the disc hub springs (which are also 4 instead of 6, and much larger in length and diameter) would then touch the edge of the 3 flat spots on the pressure plate that holds the two rivets. Yes, I could have put it together and hoped that the rivets would be wiped off... but the idea here is to not have the rivet tops wear off, because if the friction pads fly apart, it is then severely unbalanced, and could cause catastrophic failure. Also, the pressure plate rivets are very thin in comparison to the disc hub rivets. I don't want any contact where it's not supposed to be an issue later down the road. I've not only seen first hand what an exploding flywheel does, but even clutch discs that try to expand outward into a million pieces don't fail gracefully. It would not have been so insignificant as a rivet top being burnished a bit. The rivets on the pressure plate are very thin, and the spring tabs are thick, so being impacted would tweak the 24 splined hub of the disc on the input shaft axis and cause it to bind, being that there is a spring underneath them and they aren't going to just bend inward like it was being hammered. So that's my prognosis. It wouldn't have been pretty! The reason I am posting it is to make anyone with the same pressure plate aware of the fact that the disc provided by the dealer is no longer compatible with the very early "A style" clutch components, unless it is the narrower 6 spring hub, or an aftermarket narrower 4 spring hub like later exedy's (can't confirm on that 100%). Even the 6 spring style sweeps passed the pressure plate rivets just ever so slightly so much as to make contact if they are really both worn out, but I think by that time the pressure plate clamp load would be so light that it would be time to change to a new assembly altogether anyways. To give an example example of how rare these pressure plates are... I have yet to find any other photos of the units online with the same undulations and shapes like the ones posted by fuzzee. Most are replaced as an assembly and thrown away, I guess.

This thread linked above (cool forum feature, btw!) has photos of the same setup (everything) that is on this car. it is the 4 Speed Type "A" style setup. you can see from these photos taken by member fuzze that there are the 3 pads on the inside of the pressure plate that have the 2 rivets. These are what the new clutch disc with a wider hub and 4 larger springs which I've been given seems to contact. Later pressure plates with (shorter ones, I think) do not have those 3 flat spots and 6 rivets on the inside of the hub area, and they accommodate only the 6 spring smaller diameter hub section from what I can tell. This is the outside of the pressure plate. the rivets on the outside are purely for balancing purposes, as the one I have are in different spots, and have different amounts of metal sandwiched on the back.... though the rivets in this photo looks to be a lot better condition. perhaps I will just replace the rivets: Now I know there is a way of getting the newer styles to work with swapping collars and yada-yada, but to be honest I'd rather just have the original parts in there, so I think the new disc that I ordered will be fine. The old disc has a number F225DC and is marked AISIN, so it's not a Valeo unit, and the pressure plate has 30210, and has A N stamped on it, as well as a very faint circular blue stamping that is probably some sort of quality control check. It is most likely Aisin as well. I believe the new disc I am getting is a Daikin unit, but not the Exedy Daikin that is available through parts dealers. Anyways... food for thought!

Public Service Announcement RE: Clutch Friction Discs It seems that Nissan has created a compatibility issue with their superseding chain of parts... allow me to enlighten: Here we see item Key #1 for clutch disc Here are the part numbers associated with the selected item key #1 for the clutch disc Assembly 30100-E4300 supersedes to 30100-E4301 and to a bunch of other numbers, all of which are NOT available from the dealer. Surprise, Surprise. I know what you're thinking- get a clutch kit... Well I had the flywheel resurfaced, and had a very very very light skim on the pressure plate (so as to not reduce clamping load from over-machining), and thought the disc at 125 dollars would be cheaper, but now due to this incompatibility issue it's costing me money out of pocket because I don't think the owner of the car should be responsible. I will take it up with my dealer and see if I can prove the compatibility error and at least get a full or partial credit. When I discussed with my dealer, the 30100-E4301 number moved on up to the following: - 30100-D4400 (280Z number, I think) --- 30100-59E01 ------ C0100-22500 My guess is that the numbers work... provided you have the associated pressure plate. However, being that it's such an old entry, there are no comments in the dealership FAST software that denotes any requirements or prerequisites- soooo that may be the ticket for me making a case with my parts guy. the last number is the one I ordered, and it is also the same number I found on another website that used the nissan parts database and had notes like "this part has been replaced with the following" and had a link to another page. If I find that site, I will post the link, it should still be around somewhere. Just a matter of finding it again for the sake of verification. It really makes no difference if Nissan themselves has the same issue with their parts listings. I would have ended up with that disc anyways if I went straight to them. My only issue is the "special order" stuff is not refundable- but in this case, it wouldn't have been a mistake on my part since the part provided would have matched the one I was seeking anyways. Anyyyyyyyyyyyways... I may have found an NOS disc in a stockpile that I will be looking at soon. On my way to get the pressure plate and clutch parts to do some more test fitting tonight. It will put me back a week or so, but I can do other things like concentrate on wiring and other bits and odds and ends. Will have reports soon, so at least this kerfuffle is documented somewhere on the outernet.

Thanks! I've got some rebuilt calipers that were cheap and done well and they have all the factory hardware too. So I just coated them and they are ready to install with ceramic pads so that they don't dust up the fresh wheels and wheel covers!