Careless

hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... velly intellesting. amazing what's possible when the parts in the way are removed. i'll have to F with the tail lights tonight and see if this is a viable approach to added security. My main concern is it not dropping when the guys are blasting it. I don't want shift that blame over to anyone or be the cause of injury, so I'm liking this tail light hole idea.

The mounts i am using are the ones that came with the rotisserie. the ones i made slip over the end of those. the only length I added is the horizontal 3x3 cubes mounted to the car. the rest of the mount itself that i welded to is 100% fully supported by the original rotisserie mounts. what i mean by that is ... the original arms go all the way to the end of the tube that is slipped over them, and actually touches the 3x3 cube from the inside. I only added about 3.5 inches to the length of those arms. I don't understand how that could be too far or how we have the same rotisserie in this case. Mikes photo with the red tube is a good depiction of how much material i added. Here's a photo of a nearly identical hoist: the arms shown there look to be the same length, and the mounts seem like they're no more than 2 inches shorter than what I've come up with. Today I had someone play with the hoist while I looked under and over and whatnot, and it seems like most of the flex is the rotisserie itself. I could not find any flex in the bumper mounts themselves, but when moving the car, it did dip to one side, which I thought was weird. Just about every tube needs to be shimmed to prevent flexing in almost every area. My only issue with that is... i don't want to transport the car at twirling height. So installing shims on the parts that move will be tough at the sand blasters. I put some shims on the extension arms and it seems ok. I guess I'll have to shim up some more and see how she goes.

I don't think welding a bar across would do anything but add weight... it's not flexing side to side- they're both drooping a bit in the same direction.. the added bar would just droop too. Going to shim the gaps and see what happens.

I knew you'd be one of the few who'd call attention to that.

indeed. I was not worried about the bolts themselves- I was just describing which mounts I was referring to. After lifting a 400lb engine with two M8 bolts, I'm sure that if suspended by a chain, 2 x M10 bolts would be enough to suspend the entire chassis if it were to sit still, let alone 4 + the ones at the front. Not that I'll be suspending 240Z's from chains or only using two bolts total, but I'm sure there are enough. My main concern is about how the mounts are held onto the car. I will have to look at them again tonight. The M10 bolts that I am using have long enough thread to be tied in from behind the bumper bracket as well, which is what I will do once it's level. I will put another nut there a long with the metal shims. Since the rear valance panel has to be replaced, I might look into having the body guy call me over when it's removed so I can replace the nuts on the back of these mounts if the threads are poop. Thanks for all the insight. Gonna see her again tonight and stiffen up her rear.

I think I'm just going to have to cut some 1/16th metal strips and shove them into the tube gaps and tighten it all up again with no weight on it. to minimize movement from within the rotisserie tubes. will report back when i figure it out!

Yeah this rotisserie is pretty well built and beefy, just like the mounts i made for the front and rear too. It was lent to me by the body shop for soda blasting, and I guess this is what they will be using to do some of the under body work. we'll see!

Yeah they're extremely light. I was pushing around this car on the frame dolly while eating a slice of pizza one night, and I began to laugh with my mouth full of food. haha I was just concerned about the actual area that it's bolt to. Is it just spot welded? I'm thinking i'm going to peer around a bit more with a flashlight to see how sturdy it is. The bit of sagging had me concerned. Not sure if it's typical of these cars to do that when suspended. Car #1 is still being worked on, I just want to get the ball rolling on this one so the body shop can have at it. That car is still in the works. I will update that thread soon. I had been making templates from the car you see above so that I can prepare the sound deadening sheets that the body shop who did the work forgot to put back in the first car before painting it. Really causes a big headache when they do that. So once that is done, I think the interior will come together fairly quickly. There will be a couple of things missing but I'm making note of everything and making sure it's stuff we can change later. Your white Z looks similar to a white Z i might own soon :-)

Here is a picture of how I made the mounts... pretty much the same as making flat steel bar, but these box tubes prevent the area around the bumper mount from being marred, since they're only the width of the mounting area itself. inside corners are rounded so that they don't compress against the body and dent it when tightened. and here is what they look like together. there is a through-bolt to prevent it from sliding off the extension arm, and then two slack bolts & nuts are integrated to the top and the sides so that when its tightened up, the car doesn't wobble around and clunk and make weird noises when operating the rotisserie due to the tubing ID and OD gaps. and this is what has me concerned but not frightened: note: the droop in the rear... The bolts are tight as can be. I will probably lift the arse end up again and double check tightness once more but it's on there good as far as I can tell. It may be an optical illusion. Perhaps the slack bolts on the actual rotisserie extension arms have just too much of a gap and is making them twist downwards. Might shove a couple of shims in there and see what happens.

so stealfy!

Hello everyone, I'm mounting a completely stripped Series 1 chassis to a rotisserie, and it's actually all done, but for some reason it feels like the rear bumper mounts with the M10 bolts are... inadequate? There is absolutely no frame rot, and the car is being held up right now but I have yet to turn it upside down or even on its side. Is it normal to look a little... flimsy when suspended? From what it looks like, the factory bumper mounts are stamped L brackets that are fastened to the underside of the car, somehow on the frame rail above it. How are they tied in? just measly spot welds? I'm afraid to suspend the car upside down with those if that's the case. I was going to call in to schedule the car for blasting on Monday, but I may take a day or two to adjust the rear mounts. Has me a little worried, but google images searches keep pulling up the same type of fastening locations with no other support. One even on the same brand of rotisserie (which was supplied to me, and is extremely sturdy and should support 1/2 ton truck, never mind a 240z) But then again... the tow hooks and shipping container loops were fastened to the same area- soooo if you could pull out a fully assembled car from a ditch using these locations... i guess it's ok???

hopefully they are not too strong. depending on where they are located, they can actually tweak the hood if it requires a bit too much force to move them. but the S30 hoods are pretty stout along the drip rail so i have high hopes! let me know how it turns out... I might need some for my 240Z

Z31 hood shocks might work for you. they're somewhat small

I didn't get a notification about this thread, so I'm back to answer your question: Absolutely not. I've tried to contact them more than once, and even went in to discuss things with someone there, and I get the run-around or the "come back later" or the "we'll call you back"... apparently the fastest way to reach them is via email. well i, as well as another person involved in this build has tried to use that avenue as well- and I haven't even gotten a reply. I've went in to buy old parts that I KNOW they won't have a use for, and yet upon returning with money- i'm given some "go away" answer. I don't know who's running the show there at this point in time, but as far as I can tell it's not run how it was when Greg was front and centre. I doubt I'll be buying or approaching them for any work in the future because I've burned more hours on them than they have on me. In any case, I've done some sleuthing, and located the shop/person who's done the work on his vehicles in the past, and this chassis is on its way to the soda blaster soon, and then off to them for full metal work and paint resto. Kind of a shame, really. I used to enjoy going there.

if you end up boxing up the gaps and grinding them flush with a flap wheel, she'll look right n' purdy. what's next on the list?

nice. i'll take photos tonight of what i have at the shop for comparison. thanks dudes! as for the N3000, i saw them available on a Z supplier website, and was wondering if I should order those. i believe the ones on 182 are similar to the ones you put back in the bag, CanTechZ... I do the same thing lol. good for records, I guess

whhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy you do dis????? have you considered a small LiFePo4 battery? talk to Matt @ MT about the battery they use in the chump car. If you're ever by there, ask him to show it to you. it's so small that you could probably hide it UNDER the factory battery tray with the terminals pointing inwards towards the engine for easy access, https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/extreme-power/sc-1/ It's about the size of a Sony BetaMax tape... that's around your time, innit? j/k Those rad mounts look funky. Like modern furniture.

I'm going to have to check the boots on 182. I think I noticed a couple of the end bellow sections being separated by a wide valley like in the ones shown above. I currently have a set of boots on the steering rack that I THINK are the same as the ones you've put on yours- and I also have two sets of the non-useable moog ones with the over-sized inner bore. Eventually I'll need to get another set to go on 182, so I'm just gathering info at this point. Would be cool to get a set of NOS ones if they're in existence.

Grave diggin' here, but @Captain Obvious, do you know if the dirty boots shown below in the earlier post you made are the actual NOS ones with that wide separation near the outside two bellows?

i didn't. they were there when i started working on the car.

those do look different from the ones I have been trying to fit. they look a million times better in comparison.

looks like all she needs is a weatherpak connector and she's good to go. 1/2" hood clearance should be more than enough with poly engine mounts. if Monsieur TIG doesn't make it there, you are still welcome to the DuraFix aluminum rod!

for some reason, the website just alerted me now, 10 days later- that you have replied to my post within this very topic... what is going on? why am I being directed back here with no updates? i thought I was just seeing things the last 3 or 4 threads this happened to, but now i'm wondering if it's server "cron job" related. edit: i thought it was my chrome notification alerts that i've subscribed to, but just now - browsing on the forum... the notification at the bottom of the web page (which is site related, not browser related) told me you (@Mike) have replied to this thread, just as the chrome notification did. somethin' ain't right.

i hope those aren't the same bumpers i have been trying to fit on the gold car. the position of the side tabs on the rear bumper are not even close to the proper location, and they use stupid SAE hardware which makes using a ratchet impossible, and a wrench becomes a pain in the butt because of the increase in hex size. suspension stuff lookin' good! what did u do about the crack in the head?

i can see it now. pm'ing you.