Careless

is this a problem if you have a legit set of 300ZXT axles? a proper left and right with the CV cage reversed to make them slightly shorter, as some resources indicate?

which, if anyone is wondering, is easily identifiable by holding the pin up to the upright casting to gauge the distance of the pin slot on the pin itself in relation to the pins position on the casting. though the pin wouldn't even be in as far as it is in the first photo if it wasn't installed in the correct fore-aft orientation.

MSA doesn't have them available, and the zcarstore must just be getting new Nissan belts- so if I get the part number I may be able to order at the dealer. It's gotta be on another car. The aftermarket belts I Have are 850 for the water and smog pump and 865 for the alternator (not sure if i have those numbers reversed, but i remember saying to myself "huh... that's weird") I think 865 will work on both, and so should 860. But like i said, I gots'ta check 'em more closely! i'll check again tomorrow or bring the belts down with me. Maybe Nissan has some V-Belts in stock that I can size up, but I'm pretty sure most of the stuff they got is serpentine in this day and age.

when i said "gravediggin' this thread" I was referring to the March 14th dig from 240ZX... that was a waaaaay longer dig. For some reason it showed up on my active threads. Soooooo, maybe you wanna check that? see. i just found a bug for you. you're welcome.

gravediggin' this thread, 240ZX... but I just noticed something in the original thread... Ceramic Block RB26DETT... LOL... ceramic turbine wheels on the turbos... not a ceramic engine block. hahahahah.

I'm a firm believer that any engine will "fit" and run if you're willing to do the work necessary to make it to that point. in any case, a Z31 would take that engine with minor subframe issues that can be solved, and you have the opportunity to turbo the engine on the cheap by making a set of relocation pipes very easily for those stupid cast-in-head manifolds. 330hp can be 500hp on a slightly increased budget. and i'm sure there is either a JK40C/CD009 or T56/TR6060 transmission option that will fit with an adapter (probably the most costly portion). i would not even be surprised if the factory transmission mount nearly lines up with the factory Z31 mount points (as there are 2 sets of mounting pads on the Z31 trans tunnel). The auto trans with a decent trans controller might even be fun to drive. Not sure how it would deal with 500hp though. a Z31 with 350hp is good fun.

i've used similar epoxies designed for this particular use, and i can honestly say that i've never had one that didn't still sweat fluid out from underneath the epoxy. i've used on both iron and aluminum trans cases (as well as magnesium), and also iron/alu cylinder heads with cracked coolant jackets, even engine blocks too. The best of them worked very well for months, and then all of a sudden would develop their own cracks, or worse- the edges would come away/raise from the substrate, and even break off into tiny chips at the ends because its smeared on very thin at those points. the only time i can say i successfully used an epoxy of that kind for what it was intended was to repair a wollowed keyway on a crankshaft that should still be operating today (i think) and prevented me from replacing the customers motor outright- it wasn't worth it. I did actually use JB weld one time to restore metal on a gouge that someone created when doing a previous cam seal repair on my old VG30, and all I had to do was smear some on the aluminum gouge with a sliver of an old plastic/credit card, and then hit it with 600 grit paper to smooth it down to accept a new seal, but the seal is what's holding in the fluid in this instance- no sweating of fluid there.

chris, i have those aluminum brazing rods if you want a go at them. be warned that it may warp the part or produce a longer crack using the heat required to get it to flow nice, but you're welcome to some if you'd like. pretty sure they're the exact same ones from the same site. i bought them 5 or 6 years ago when their website was shitty. i used one or two, but it wasn't suitable for my use. I will say that it does produce a surprisingly strong bond to clean aluminum. Correction: these are the ones i got, Chris: http://durafix.com/index.html you're welcome to use them if you'd like. i think they're the same. i have a little stainless brush that's unused too, so you can use that for your repair if need be.

So you can Tee off the 3/4 connection, then?

Yeah the great thing about the Jeep IACV is that you can mount it anywhere you want. Though, if you had trouble finding a vacuum port for the brake booster, I think you'll have the same issue for IACV. Perhaps this is a good time to put a T into the IACV fresh air hose or make a 3rd port if you have to make a blockoff plate with fittings, and have it go to the brake booster.

So I thought I had the right belts, but it looks like I doesn't! Is there still a source for the original ALT & SMOG pump belts? I'm seeing BELT-FAN FOR COOLER 11720-E3015 OP L24 BELT-FAN L=845 11720-E4615 L24 BELT-FAN L=860 11720-E8700 L24 7207 BELT-FAN L=885 11720-P0305 ASSY-BELT FAN FOR AI [AIR PUMP?] 11720-25604 L24,L26 EXHAUST 14853-N3610 OP L26 EXHAUST neither of these belts are available... are there any sources that have OE NISSAN Belts, or should I just attempt to size up the smog pump one with string and get them via 3rd party?

edit: video or it didn't happun!

it's not showing up. it has a broken image link, but I don't see the image.

There are different styles of Brake Masters. some have a bleed screw on the bottom, some don't. I have a few at the shop. One I will be installing soon in 01606- so I'll take photos.

the Z31 and quite a few late 80's / early 90's vehicle platforms use a vacuum pump to provide pneumatic operation of the climate control, heater valve, cruise control, and other related accouterments. locking hubs on some SUVs too. engines with certain lopey/high overlap cams do not generate good vacuum assist either- making brake boosters nearly useless.

sand works excellent because it acts like little bearings. i've used this method before and it works reasonably well.

what?

The Z31 300ZX Turbo has a Vacuum Pump and a "Surge Tank" installed fore of the drivers front wheel, just behind the front turn signal. I believe the "Surge Tank" operates as the reservoir, which is necessary if you don't want to have the pump come on every time you press the brakes. It provides a higher vacuum draw, and allows the pump to run cooler and only turn on after repeated braking. The pump just stays on a bit longer every time it does turn on. You can read up on how it's done for EV cars because they don't have a manifold vacuum source either;http://www.amphibike.org/index.cgi?page=pages/3_wheels/mr2/ev_powerBrakes doesn't the s52b30 have this line here, though? i see a check valve, which is a sure sign of a brake booster line: in any case, here's a relatively inexpensive kit utilizing the pump you posted. perhaps you can source the part numbers and get it cheaper: http://www.electricmotorsport.com/electric-12v-vacuum-pump-brake-booster-kit-with-reservoir.html

i can check the cap on 182 tonight. where is the hole supposed to be for the chain. I got a chain cap on the 1606 car, but i just put it under one of the screws and put the chain on the inside... i think that's how i did it. I'm upset that #13 has generic rubber nissan hoses for the rad and made in USA fuel hose for the fuel pump. she's #2 in our hearts.

whyyyyy i ought'a...

A better question is where did you get pictures of 182? lol. I am working on that car. We should coordinate on documenting stuff...

the orange tubing is OE on the 71 models? neither of the earlier cars I have show this covering... maybe it's covered in grime. one is really bad. are there any aftermarket cables that have the spring wrap around the transmission end? also: firewall grommets. both cars i have access to at the shop have the firewall grommets inverted from how you have them here: they're installed as innies instead of outies... hmmmm

This video gets me every time.

still trying to find the two front floor jute pieces that go under the feet. the ones i have access to are torn at the ends, otherwise unusable. I may be able to guesstimate end length, based on carpet length. will see what i can do. won't happen for a while.

Tried them folks. Their phones are down all the time (both their US line and their BC line), and I'm pretty sure his stuff is identical to the roadster factory. He described to me on the phone that it had bright flecks, and it also wasn't that thick either. 1/4 inch thickness max. Needs to be minimum of 10, but closer to 1/2 inch is ideal. And I'm almost positive he only had Hardura available, which is not what we need. got about 3 more options that I know of... then I gotta start begging suppliers to look passed Minimum order Quantity of 40'FCL. translation: 40 foot Full Container Load... anyone else interested in jute padding for at least 10 240Z's? You can buy 9 sets, and the 10th one is free.