Careless

Jim @ Chester & Herrod made a carpet set for me, and it was really well made. It's for #1606. Essentially identical to the one in the 1971, save for some small differences that he said were on the 1970 that he gave me the option of going with and changing at a later date. Though, he will inform you that he can make the carpet to the 1970 style- but will tell you that the car didn't come with a carpet. It was just thin rubber weather mat material that was cut to shape. Perhaps the same shape as the carpets. I am not 100% sure. Your 1969 Z should also not have any sound deadening in the cargo area, correct?

Anyone have reservations on Michelin XAS classic style tires? They seem to look a lot like the Bridgestone RD-150... EDIT: Nevermind. They require a tube. Hmmmm... still lookin' I think the VREDESTEIN 175HR14 SPRINT CLASSIC is the closest tubeless tire design. Off to the tire shop to see if they can git'em!

will be in touch soon!

Sorry, I just saw it now. though i don't see the photo you posted. its not loading.

I think most 1969 cars did not have carpets, they had rubber floor mats. I have never actually SEEN a car so equipped. It's one of those things that I hear about but never had the chance to see. I would like to find one in person and perhaps make templates and find the same material. I'm sure the Jute templates are different from the later fully carpeted models as well. The jute I pulled from an very early 69 car was essentially goo and fibre by the time it came out. It was rather oily feeling and crumbly. Perhaps too much glue used from factory. As I recall, I only pulled jute from behind the seats and the transmission tunnel under the vinyl. I paid for samples from the trf.zeni - but they are not completely natural Jute fibre even though they say it is. It's semi-synthetic. It's OK. I think most would be pleased with it. I wasn't, though. So far, I've contacted 6 different places and received samples... None fit the bill. I have another I'm looking into. At some point I will CAD draw the templates and or cut them manually and offer them for sale if the demand is there considering the amount of unpaid hours I've burned on this- but it's mildly entertaining and I'm making good contacts for future reference. I know where to get BMW and Volkswagen Jute now. . Please believe me when I say the longest portion of this particular restoration has been battling with this Jute stuff to get it perfect. Even the firewall padding jute is different. It's surely a different asbestos type fluffy material. I probably shouldn't have some in a bag so close to my bedside, but I occasionally take a look at it when searching for stuff. The next car will go swiftly since I'll have that all hammered out. Is there any interest in pre-cut factory shaped Jute kits?

Ontario friends & Z family, I'm on the hunt for a body shop that is familiar with 240Z's. Specifically the earlier series 1 chassis. I have a rolling shell on a frame dolly that needs to be sent out ASAP for a full body restoration. Can arrange delivery of body and all items required. Could be a good job for a reputable/respectable auto body team that is familiar with top to bottom restorations. Preferably in the GTA.

FWIW... ZTherapy bakes their plated parts twice when doing carb rebuilds. My industrial plater just leaves them in a spot with a lot of sunlight. Also, most cadmium plating i've seen is kind of ugly. almost powdery- even on the yellow stuff. not quite as "blingy". could just be the ASTM spec for the parts I've seen, but from what I've been exposed to- zinc plating looks nicer.

I am considering the sealer because I had to use a dent puller to remove some of the dents on the tank, and in doing so- it turned out amazing and the tank looks almost new, but there are spots that did pull through and i had to patch up. so i'll probably be using the tank sealer from Caswell.

How do you guys plug the carburetor siphon line in the tank when doing the coating on the interior? The only tank I've ever done was an EFI tank for a different car, so it wasn't a problem. But the carb line goes across the tank into the other side passed the slosh-plate. It's so tiny too, i'm afraid of plugging it with the tank sealer.

Small Update: Car should be ready to start very soon! Reproduction exhaust should be in today. Need to get one or two small items plated before putting it on. I'll also be painting the Nichira N3300 midpipe with some silver paint instead of leaving it black. I'm just waiting for the MSA exhaust to see what kind of finish it needs to be. I would rather it be close to a "as-equipped" part, rather than "off-the-shelf" NOS part. I think it would look weird having a Silver-Black-Silver exhaust system. Alternator needs a slight wiring repair before it goes on. It was rebuilt, but the two-terminal brush holder connector seems to have cracked wiring right at the grommet. I should have some extra wiring laying around that is the same colour. I'm missing some small fuel injection clamps- but I'll be using regular ones for now and switching over to a set of plated ones once I get it running. I was wondering if anyone knows a good source of "OEM Style" Exhaust clamps. Or if there are some clamps that I can buy and mix and match the U-bolt and the clamping bracket to get something that looks like the OEM ones. I can have them plated after I get the car running. I've also repaired some dents on a gas tank that I took out of the 1971 parts car. Now my main concern is... how the hell does use tank repair sealing epoxy and plug up the FEED line to the fuel pump? It's so tiny and swirly and goes to the baffled side of the tank. The last tank I assisted in sealing was an EFI tank, and thus it did not have that issue. Any suggestions on these two issues? Gettin' so close! - Also been thinking what oil to run for initial break-in. I'll probably just use Rotella T dino oil with some WIX napa gold filters- save the japanese blue cans for proper oil change. I have some Zerex G-05 coolant which I tend to lean towards. along with some standard GL4 trans fluid. I will be draining and refilling all oils in short order, as the trans and engine were rebuilt (how well, I'm not sure!)

FIRST POST UPDATED - added new items I require

Apparently, the CZCC number is the 5 digit number before your username on your main profile page. http://www.classiczcars.com/profile/XXXXX-careless/

Where is this CZCC number, and do I have to be a Supporting Member to obtain one?

Has anyone tried to use this 10% MSA discount code generated through the CZCC store? No one at MSA is aware of how the code works Tried processing the order over the phone (as the page says) and was told to do it online it does not work on their checkout coupon code field it remains unseen when entered into "additional information" (do they even read it?) it is quite a hassle to get it resolved and deducted from purchases. What gives? The amount of time I've burned on this with repeating myself on two calls (when I actually managed to get through) and multiple emails makes it seem like it's barely worth the trouble, though being up north- it does end up reducing shipping costs, which is why I'm going through this, but still... Communication break-down, it seems. Is this regular for MSA? I haven't ordered from them in about 6 years. Not sure what to expect nowadays.

but the question is... is that car even available for $60+K?

these all look fantastic. lovin' the z love

so purdy

I didn't say I was buying it... but to someone who really likes datsuns, has the funds, and is looking for the "early enough example to be satisfied" number, that answer is a definite yes.

please do, sir. inbox me with pics and price and we'll take it from there.

With a number that low, the VIN, engine, and body inscription are the only things that a would be buyer would actually need to be 100% sure about. everything else is a bonus.

Yeah that's what I'm seeing now too. Which is odd, because Canadian Law has banned specifically the ATE SuperBlu because they don't want people to mistake it for something else. You could pour either one of those fluids in a glass pitcher and plug my nose and I'd never know they weren't kool-aid before the taste test, so I don't know why SuperBlu is scrutinized so much and Typ200 and DOT5 fluids get a free pass.

Nice! Looks almost identical to the one I just did. Which, oddly enough- is the exact same colour as the original orange that Dino Ferrari's once came in. Though I must mention one thing about RAL: RAL is not the manufacturer of the colour, rather it is a standardized numerical code system used for powder and industrial paint coatings. It is the industrial equivalent to PANTONE MATCHING SYSTEM (PMS; which is aptly named if you've ever had to deal with print houses). On that note, the "Pumpkin" moniker is most likely the name attached to the RAL number, and is what the company that produces the medium would call it. The actual name should be something like RAL 15XX - Pumpkin. And it might be the same RAL number from another supplier, but called Blood Orange or something. The number is most important and the closest you will get to sharing colour info with one another if that's your intention. Be aware that while the system is standardized, I've had powder coating numbers with the same RAL that shift up or down two to three shades, so when matching powder colours, it's best to go to a local powder blender and see if they have any instock samples that they can freshly coat a sample "coupon" with- that way you can be sure the formulation is consistent and hasn't changed or someone didn't F with it in their computer system.

seems like it's all purple as far as I'm seeing. hmmmmmm. wondering if there are varying shades that will not discolor the plastic as much. i mean- it WOULD be a bonus if it was closer to clear in colour, but that's just a bonus. my main concern is paint stripping capability. lol. gonna be buying fluids next week. i think this is about the only fluid I've not researched extensively because I've never used DOT5 specifically. SuperBlu and Tip200 was always all I needed!

I am looking for the following items (will add more soon): NEW STUFF: - NOS Spark Plug Wires (original 70's style ones) - NOS Fuel Tank Vapor/Vent Lines (Series 1) - NOS series 1 radiator cap USED STUFF: - FRONT driver and FRONT passenger JUTE underpad. (furthest in front of the seats, not behind them- already got those) - Original style A/B Valves (working/decent condition) - Complete Smog Pumps (preferably operating, with as little markings as possible on the main housing/body). - 4.5J TOPY WHEELS (would like to procure a total of 4 or 5)