Careless

UPDATE: I received the carpet from C&H a while ago, though I haven't downloaded any recent photos to my computer just yet. I have yet to do so. I have been tearing down another vehicle. Though that vehicle doesn't have the jute padding at all, and the one these are for- I don't have all the pieces, so I don't know how many sq.ft I should buy either. I think I will measure out the area of the carpeting and add some extra and put an order in for those soon. Does anybody by chance have any templates for jute padding that I could purchase copies of? Most/all of the items that came out of this car are in terrible shape or in multiple pieces. @Zup seems to have dissappeared from planet earth, so I'm looking for an alternative source at this point

This interior stuff is killing me. still fun, though.

Ohhhh I totally forgot to check that. Sweet! I wonder how the other end was held down, though. Probably just a tight o-ring as well. I guess that's what I'll use! Thanks, Mike!

I found the vice rod at a friend's shop. It's not that'd i'd expect to make ludicrous capital gains or anything with fastener pullers for a 40 year old car, but I think actually making the tool would be cost prohibitive from a sales standpoint. If there was a cheaper way to make a tool as beefy as this instead of the other ones I've seen online, then I'd do it. I guess I can look into it... I've noticed this stuff is extremely expensive here in Canada. The Thrust Bearing is $20 The ACME rod is $36 ($110 divided by 3 pieces per rod) The ACME nut is $14 Then I need some DOM tubing as well And those prices don't include tax... Then I'd have to get a length of tube and pay my friend for vice time. It would be a $90 - $120 dollar tool + shipping. I'm not sure how many of those would sell...

A controlled test was conducted in April/May of 2007 issue of Machinist's Workshop. Lloyd Bender tested 4 of the better known brands up against an Acetone + ATF mix (actually power steering fluid in the photos), and while Kroil came second to the home-brew concoction, but it was not better than liquid wrench by a long-shot. Keeping that in mind, 4 cans of Liquid Wrench costs about 25 bucks here. 4 cans of Kroil costs about 70 bucks. And since I didn't break a bolt, I know what I'll be using for future jobs as well, simply based on cost, and because the closest Kroil dealer is a place I despise shopping at. Liquid Wrench can be had on sale for $3.99 sometimes, so it's almost a no-brainer for the amount I used on the car. I did not do the ATF (PSF) + Acetone mix because acetone and plastic/rubber aren't best friends- and I don't want to accidentally get any on something that may still be in usable condition if it's to be used in the future for or put back on the car. Also, I'd have to buy a pressurized sprayer to make good use of the mixture, and I'd have to wait for that to come in. Lastly, I'm not sure I feel great about self-filling and pressurizing acetone on my own. I simply don't know enough about the safety precautions involved to feel safe doing it, but it has crossed my mind as an option for the future. I've used PB'laster as well, and it's great but I actually found ReleaseAll to work better in my own tests. But I have to say I was impressed with the Liquid Wrench. I did, however, start using it after emptying two cans of ROST-OFF from Wurth, which is also a fantastic product (as are all their stuff), but I can't speak to how well it stacks up against Liquid Wrench because i basically "double doused" each bolt on the car before attempting to remove them... maybe even triple. But there were some that came off noticeably easy and I only sprayed Liquid Wrench on those ones. I think my favorite thing about liquid wrench is just how far it shoots out of the can, and how it holds itself together in stream, making it easier to pin point than other fluids that break up mid-air the further they travel. I was able to snipe bolts, like the furthest back of the little square rubber bumpers on top of the driver front fender hood rail while the car was 1 foot over my head and I was standing in front of the passenger headlight. The distance is about 4 to 6 feet in arc. Very controllable. It's a very concentrated spray stream and predictable (minimized mess). Though the Wurth Rost-Off Nozzles spray just a bit better and dont hurt the finger as much. Which is great, because I kept some Wurth nozzles and they fit right on the liquid wrench cans too :-) I've attached a PDF of the article for anyone who cares to read. Machinist's Workshop penetrating oils article.pdf

Thanks. That kind compliment earns you the top spot on the sign up list. I'm happy to report that the tool worked wonderfully. Each photo is in order, and has the associated time stamp from when I took the photo. Setup @ 8:45PM (heated spindle section for 2 minutes with MAPP gas) [no photo] Started @ 8:47PM (a few turns of the lead screw) Midway Point @ 8:52PM (a checking for binding & reseating, and then a quick reheating ) She's out @ 8:55PM View of the threads (well preserved on both ends) The other side was the first one I did, and it was a little tougher because it was my first go, so setup and greasing and positioning the huge channel locks I was using took an extra 10 minutes of getting used to. The Hex nut is 1.5" on the 1" ACME gear nut, so I couldn't use the 1-3/8ths large wrench. There was no 1-1/2 available so I made due. Since the tool worked so quickly and didn't take much energy from me (i've only so much per day!) I managed to then proceed to remove the entire drivetrain/powertrain and undercarriage/running gear (which was thoroughly soaked in liquid wrench, 2 or 3 times... many cans used). This is all for another car that I will make another thread for- but this new tool deserved an update. Amazing what some good tunes and a quiet place to work can do for productivity. Maybe I should transfer this to another thread because it has nothing to do with this car's restoration- but I got excited.

Mini-Update: Been working on this car here, and Zup sent me some much needed stuff to put in place the sound deadening that was not installed in the car when it was repainted. He also gave me great tips on getting me set up to tackle the interior of the vehicle starting from its current stage. So far I've done the following: Attempted to repair steering rack. It came out great... except the pinion was worn out in the rest position and had a noticeable clunk when turning. I am going to attempt to transfer over the guts from the "rebuilt" rack if it's ok, and see how that works. That will allow me to drill out the hole on that rack to accept the oiling bulb. *** SIDENOTE *** anyone have pics of how the original steering rack boots were attached? Safety Wire? Band Clamps? Can't seem to find the answer. Installed some engine bay stuff. Ignition coil, voltage regulator, Inspection lamp, brake vacuum lines, throttle linkage, misc hoses. Did a lot of shopping around for other parts. Re-assembled distributor, but had issues with the cam weight advance plate (there's a thread I need to update too!) Finishing up a purchase for lots'o rubber parts from classiczcar community favourite, Steve. Only things left underneath are e-brake cable, speedo cable, KH brake valve and lines, gas tank, and exhaust Doing lots of interior research. I seem to be missing some parts (no surprise), but I'm still learning. Sandblasted many door/window parts, ready for plating- but that will be held off for a bit... Bought the carpet from JIM @ Chester & Herrods. I find it really awesome that an original and integral part of the history of these cars is alive and well (The person. not the carpet), and he is still producing the parts he made back when it all started (the carpet, not the people. lol) I've also been shopping for some jute as well. I think I narrowed down my search to the ones I like for matching the ones in this particular car in terms of original colour and weight/construction. I got it close. The variance in old/new jute is too wide of a range to be perfect within, but it's close. Hey- if it's available, I'll use that instead of something that just "does the job". Speaking of doing the job. I got another one on hand that I'm working on (more on that soon), and I have to extract the spindle pins, so I made this handy dandy spindle pin puller. Just as I was about to borrow some threaded rod from a friend and make my own tig-welded coupling nut to use on the spindle pins (so I wouldn't have to buy or ruin his threaded rod which was for his own custom tool), I walked into his shop and saw his trusty vice in two on the floor... And it was doomed for the garbage bin. My friend also has a lathe, so I drilled it about 50mm deep on center @ 27/64th inch drill size (it also already had a pilot hole started too). And in the lathe with the machine off and foot on the brake, I tapped the inside at M12x1.25, and it took forever. The steel is very hard (chrome vanadium?), and I had to back the tap out every 1/8th of a turn to clear it out and stop the tap from binding on the swarf/chips. But it all the way in very cleanly at the end of it all, and it went about 40mm deep with thread. My whole right arm felt like I was pitching fast-balls all day. Then I bought a "tapered needle roller banded thrust bearing". Apparently, banded just means its a thrust bearing set with the top and bottom race encased in a housing rather than provided separately as thrust washers. It's essentially a throwout bearing... I bought a thrust roller bearing but it was the 3 piece loose set, and the races were too thin and would get caught in the ACME threads. It had a small 1mm deep, 3mm wide step on the back for the bottom race, so I stepped the end of the DOM tube which I bought from the cut-off pile at my local metal distributor for $5, gave it a tap or two with a rubber mallet to get it on there nice and good- and then fuse welded the inside with a TIG welder so that the bearing doesn't go anywhere. I didn't want to ruin the shiny and clean aesthetic of the outside of the tube, so I chose to weld inside by extending the tig electrode farther than usual- but it was a good fuse. I then cleaned up the HAZ marks on the outside by putting it in the lathe and hitting it with some various grit sandpaper- and what you see there is the end result. Probably gonna shark hide it. It took me a little while, but I don't come across free ACME threaded rod often, and it was $110 for a 3 foot section at the fastener store, so I figured I'd make a proper tool that will outlast many spindle pin jobs. Price List TIMKEN T101 Bearing: $20 1" ID Seamless DOM Tube (1.5" OD I Believe): $5 1" ACME Nut: $5 Vice Gear Screw: FREE Lunch for lathe use: $15 TOTAL: $45 (ish) not including gas driving here and there- but whatever! Lets call it $50 bucks for a tool that will probably last longer than I do. The only thing that I'm not sure of is the ACME nut seems a little loose, but I have the original threaded slug from the vice that I can always cut and grind some flats onto, but it only seemed a little tighter. I'll try this first.

Hey doods. So I got a mid-pipe with an original NICHIRA N3300 resonator on it, and I believe it's a parts-department unit as it's coated in the original black semi-gloss finish. It has a couple of dings and dents, but nothing major. I know it may not be the right one for the 01/1970 car, but it should be close enough at this stage where I can bolt it up and replace it at a later date if I find anything more suitable. My issue is the Exhaust "downpipe" and muffler section. The one from jdm-car-parts is the same as the one that MSA sells, and i've noticed that the merge is not quite as close to OE as it could be. Or maybe the one I have off the car is an aftermarket unit? I'm not quite sure. Which brings me to... questions on the downpipe... Just so I can identify the stuff I have... Does anyone have a photo of the original downpipe and merge joint in the exhaust? I have one that has a formed section and one that is crudely welded where they meet. I am going to take a photo of it today if I can get to where it's stored in time. Does anyone know what the original finish on the exhaust from factory was (not from the parts counter). Aluminized or Raw ERW welded exhaust tube? Crush bends? Who makes the closest reproduction unit? Does anyone have an OE one for sale ? questions on the midpipe Does anyone have photos of the original? Are the N3300 part number units compatible with earlier cars, or should I start looking for another? The dimensions seem to be similar to the exhaust on another car that is an aftermarket welded in unit. Should I remove the black paint and keep it raw? I'm pretty sure I can remove all the paint fairly easily. I have a good paint remover that I can wipe off with a rag and toothbrush, and it should remove any trace of black paint and bring it back to the all-steel look to match the downpipe and muffler if they're "steel" looking. Does anyone have an OE one for sale? questions on muffler Does anyone have photos of the original other than the ones on jdm-car-parts? I have one that SEEMS like its the original unit on one of the cars, but it doesn't have NICHIRA embossing on it. It only has INLET <----> OUTLET embossing on it. Was the NICHIRA embossing on all units? Was it raw steel or silver as OEM Who makes the best reproduction of this unit? Does anyone have an OE one for sale? I know it might not seem like a big deal to some but I like the original style stuff, so if it can be made- I'd rather have those on the vehicle. Will try to do a large update on #01606 and post photos in my other unfinished threads soon! Thanks!

noice! why not use the engine that came with it, though? it would be original and have all the goodies. you can always just replace the exterior stuff if you want to put it back to stock/restored look, no?

I just discussed with Jim @ C&H, and he said all these exact things- as I sent him the same photos. It's great that you mention it, I was going to come here and say "these are repro's according to Jim" and ask if anyone can confirm. I will be going with the original style, according to Jim & Jim's recommendations. Thanks guys. Kinda makes me wonder what the heck else was "original" in this car. weiiiiiiiird.

Here's what the Jute Felt padding that was pulled from this car looks like (also just for reference for anyone else).

Small update, sent off the photos of the original carpet to Jim @ Chester & Herrod just now, hoping he can match it as close as possible. Here are the photos just for reference.

Spoke to Jim today. Sounds like a real honest guy and was eager to answer any of my questions. Though he did ask if I wanted the domestic loop pile (newer/fuller/fluffier) or the imported loop pile (original/sparse/cheapish). I think I'm going to go with the original stuff. I have a photo of the original carpet I'll upload as soon as I can get it off my relic of a phone using Google Drive. He wants to send me samples but I think I'll just send him the photo and tell him to make it in the original less-dense stuff for originality. Though shipping will be quite expensive... I need two sets.

@240Ziggy how did this work out for you? did the head of the bolt fastening the roller to the regulator assembly clear everything under the door skin just fine? I am going to buy a set of the tarp eyelets from PA tomorrow.... There was only one of those pieces on one of the regulators I've cleaned up. Did each roller have one of those under it?

That's the post I have been reading. I'm wondering what the consensus is on the Chester and Harrods stuff. Thank you for describing it well. I do indeed have the loop pile at the shop. I need to order a carpet kit yesterday. I should contact them today.

Two more cars are coming, and they might have the same distributor. If they do- I'll take them apart to assess the springs. If they are the same in dimension and look, I don't think it will be coincidental. I know it's not the best test- but it's good enough for me until I get the car running. If it runs well and doesn't operate funny, then I'll be happy with it. Currently I'm happy with how it looks- its just the internals that I need to figure out :-D I have a feeling the distributor clasps are supposed to be black though, but having them plated doesn't hurt. Can always be painted overtop :-)

Zed Head, excuse me for sounding like a jerk- but the point of this exercise IS to say that it's exactly how the factory made it, because that's what my client/employer asked me to do- so that's what he and the vehicle will get. If the parts that I seek were not in usable condition or not available new if they were damaged- I would look at getting a spare dizzy and swapping the parts over, or going with the HEI replacement springs as an option that was recommended previously. There is no difference in cost/rewards ratio- in fact it would cost me more to use springs and a cam plate from a later style car because I would have to buy all those parts. My point is, if the springs that came in the original distributor are the same in size and shape as the ones that I have seen in there (which it seems to be leaning towards), then I don't need to get any parts, and I will assemble it as is- and it's just another true-to-form detail that the car has- which both I and the owner will know about, and that's that. It would literally take more work to find springs, cam plate, and weights and put it together and adjust it than it would to come here and ask "are these springs supposed to be the same. because if it's supposed to be like that, then it's a restored and completed part". That's why I did it. It has nothing to do with gaining performance in any regard.

I live in Canada, the car is here- but it will be transported to California later in the year when it's done.

I love Wurth products, every single one I've ever purchased has performed exactly as advertised- if not better. Is this Wurth stuff the same thickness as the OE stuff? I'm going to take the front nose panel with me to get paint matched in a single stage paint that is slightly more "soupey" than normal, and roll it on in layers once the mat is down. I'll have to paint the edges and ends with a paint brush to not get any overlap onto the body. I want to do it as cleanly as possible. I think having the paint a little more "runny" will allow it to level out a bit better and reduce brush strokes. The matting should soak a bit of it anyways. At this point, I don't think spraying is an option. As for bonding to the floor. I have a number of heat guns with varying levels of heat output. I think they will be ok. I see the tools you used, Zup- I'll use some copper plate to make a similar "trowel" tool and approach it the same way. I don't think it will damage the current paint on the floorboards. I never saw an update on the Chester & Herrods carpet, but I gather- from general consensus- that it's the most true-to-factory style carpet? I am thinking of calling them up on Monday and putting in an order. I have the original carpet, it's just not in very good condition- definately not resto quality. Do they only do the floor piece, or the rest of the loop/pile pieces as well (and are they good?). I don't think anyone ever mentioned those pieces in the threads I've been reading.

it says "likes" in the first sentence, but I'm just trolling. I know what you mean. tee hee

No one ever mentions it, but apparently you CAN teach a NEW DOG old tricks!

yeah i'm quite familiar with standalone engine management- but this is the first points distributor i've had to attempt to rebuild myself- and the car is being restored to its factory originality, so no room for EMS.

Good point, I never even noticed in the FSM diagram that the slot is longer on the Cam Plate. I was concentrating on the spring thing so much that I kept saying "What? what spring size? they're the same? Am I blind?! The hell is going on here?!" I have a digital scale that I can use to test the governor weights and springs as well. I will do that. Perhaps in the next couple of minutes if what I'm doing right now doesn't take too long.

I'll look into those spring kits, but I'd really like to just use the stock stuff if it's the right stuff. Yes, I am assuming the the distributor has never been taken apart, but as far as I could tell when taking it apart, it wasn't in the greatest condition, and just look like it never even had the cap replaced. The rubber seals where the clamp brackets mount to were still there, and I just got the feeling that it was never touched. I will be looking at the other cars when they come to see what I can find. If 3 cars with the same distributor have the same spring, then I don't think it would be merely a coincidence. You could buy 3 remanufactured distributor done by the same guy in the same large rebuilding service center and they'd probably all have different springs unless they were all done in the same month.

I'm glad you noticed this in the parts assembly- it's what I found in Nissan E-FAST as well. I see the exact same diagrams with the exact same nomenclature- which is actually what prevented me from following the FSM and taking the springs out of the spare 71 Distributor I also have (pictured on 50B-1 that you posted). I said to myself... maybe I should see if anyone has run into this issue as well- Mainly because I noticed that most of the NOS distributors or ones available are not the style with the same cap clamps, so I knew something had to be off. Even the one mentioned as part of the reassembly procedure is not the cap clamp style that I have here. Perhaps the best course of action would be to put it together as is for now, and set it up as if it were to be run as is with the current springs. I may have access to another early car very soon that I will be able to take a closer look at, and it will clear some of the air on this. I wonder if there is an easy way to measure the tension on these tiny springs without breaking them. Now... the one thing that I'm curious to know is... if these springs are the same for the early D612-52 distributors, does the orientation of the spring matter? The ends LOOK somewhat different, but they don't have a long uncoiled leg side and a short side like the ones mentioned in the FSM reassembly procedure. So many unanswered things. (Kinda enjoying it, though).