nickbean

you didn't specify weather or not you're dealing with the stock radio or not. but to answere your question the best I can: radios require three things to turn on and funtion properly, #1 constant power, this is usually a red or yello wire that gets supplied with a constant 12v, it's only purpose is to keep your radio presets.#2 key switch power (this is most likely the yellow wire you speak of)this wire supplies all the power to your radio while listening and is usually conected through the fuse block to a power source that is only on when the key is in the ON or ACC position. #3 is a body ground (most likely a black wire). I hope this aswered your quesion -nick

Due to a vicious accident I had to put my 240z motor/tranny into a 260z to revive it. As you can imagine this created a whole new world of electric problems. I would like to switch to the single wire GM alternator conversion. Have any of you done this or know how and could give instructions?

I'm sorry it took me so long to reply my internet was down, any way starting at the top tranzor_z: I have no 280 stuff inf: I have no retractable seat belts nutxo: sorry only l-24 cores tymux: I could sell you the whole doors as long as you don't need the acuall window glass 240zdragon72: I have a clean set that probly needs a rebuild could part with those webbkarzy: sorry no n-42 just a e-88 that needs some work jeff: I could probly put a set togather for you, maybe a little rough cheetah: just make me a list I probly have a full set zolorin: no just the early ones roopz: yeah I have got 2 both have some small dents and the insides are rusty

I have lots of z parts from engines to lights from tranys to round top su's just ask for what ever you need I probably have one.

I just saved a 260z from an untimly junkyard demise by dropping an old 240 motor in to it, the engine starts and runs fine but it's not putting enough juice back into the battery. when I measure the voltage at the (new) alternator (the oposing posts) the voltage is down at around 11.5 volts. my only thought is that maybe there's a major electicle difference between the two systems. any help would be apprieciated. thanks nick

the mechanacle noise I was hearing was do to the fact that a couple of valves were way out of adjustment, I fixed them and the noise went away, as for the pressure it never drops dangerousely low, but low enuff to raise suspition, i'm gonna have to get a real gauge on it soon

I am having the same problems with the oil pressure dropping as the car warms up. But I am having increased valve noise too. What do you guys think?

the only other parts that I can think of that are missing would be: one rear interior panel (black), stereo, front valance. I think that's it , I do have lots of extras in the garage including two engines in need of a rebuild (L-24) , a tight 4-sp tranny (pops out of reverse, but may have just been shifter positioning), set of round top su's, and lots of other misalanius parts.

I have lots of various 240 parts for sale (just ask I probly have one) and a 260 chasis (missing engine tranny) for free if you come and pick it up

well aparently my engine is of the rare self healing type, the car was still running like turd but I warmed it up and decide to take it to the parts store for new plugs, (ealier we had set the fast idle screw so that it would idle at about 1000 rpms) I was about seven minutes out when all of a sudden at idle the engine reved way up to like 3000 and sustained it, when i got to the auto parts store I backed the fast idle screw off all the way and it returned to its usual idle and has been running really stong ever since. I know that this sounds wierd but it's not the first time that this engine has done this to me it did the very same thingjust after I droped it into the car, I had set the fuel delivery system back the way it should be, and it ran rough so I changed it back to the returnless and it still ran rough but after a short drive (ontop of the usual ten minute warm up) it returned to normal. has anybody else expirienced this phenominum before, or does my engine contain magical regenerative powers.

started at square one rotating the crank to tdc, set a rough timing and corrected the firing order, after that the car fired upand i set the timing to 5 degrees btdc but it is still running very rough. what kind of idel could I expect from an engine with an air fuel mixture way to rich? (god knows why but the engine had a returnless fuel system rigged up when i dropped it in, I tried switching to original 240 system but it didn't run right so i switched back, and i think that this is causing a rich mixture at low revs) the engine is a 280 with an e-88, crane cam, round top su's, and electric fuel pump. I just need to know what you guys think my next course of action should be. thanks nick

the car would barley idel at anything less than 10 btdc, the manual I have doesn't include the firing order if anybody has that it would help. oh I tried to work on it this morning and the battery was completely dead wouldn't even turn on the dome light, maybe because I left the timing light pluged in all night

yesterday I was preparing my car for a trip to seattle (I just dropped an L28 and five speed in my 240) I will be my first voyage of over 30 minutes with the new engine, so i thought that i would tune it up before I leave I started by setting the points gap to .5 mil. and timing to about 10 degrees btdc, I took it for a quick test drive but the engine would stumble while accelerating, so I advanced the ignition about 3 degrees, better but would stumble when it reached 4000 rpm, i thouhgt that it might have point bounce or something due to the increase in gap so I set it back to the way it was before I started and set the timing back as well, but now it would barly idel. thinking that I may have scewed up the distributer, I switched to my old distributer (ignition system and both distributers are from 240), but now the car won't even start, just the ocasional ear shattering back fire, and sometimes out of the carbs. I'm stumped because I still have spark. if any of you can figure it out I would apreiciate it, any insight would help thanks nick

I have a 1970 240 and a 260 that I am parting out. the e-31 has a small crack in the combustion chamber and the block is shot I also have an e-88 that needs new guids and and intake seats, one working set of round top su's, and many other parts email me for questions. spickbean@collegeclub.com thanks nick bean

the block says L-24 on it so now I'm even more confused, unless someone replaced the pistons, did any engines overseas get recessed pistons? due to money restaints my brothers project is on hold so I have choice of either block, is there any advantage to his pistons as opossed to my flat top pisons? also I have a 1970 parts car with an E-31 on it (dumbass sold the complete car to me for 100 bucks) should I get this head rebuilt for use on the street or save it for a race motor or something special?

my borther and I have been rebuilding the engines in our z cars, his for the fun of it, mine because it started leaking water into the combustion chamber (still not shure if it's a cracked block, head, or bad gasket) my question is this; both cars are suposedly 1971's but my engine has flat top pistons and his has valve recesses, both engines had E-88 heads on them and the bores seem the same (haven't accually measured) so you can understand my confusion. any info would be helpful

obviously there are going to be discrepencies in performance figures depending on who drove, ambient temp. what model they drove (there are like four of them) elevation, octane levels, but that's not the point, the point that I was making was that the new z isn't going to be the quarter mile beast that the GTR is, it was made as a sports car. it doesn't really matter what platform it was based on (remember the first porche 911 was based on the volkswagon beattle). Nissan has done alot of work to make sure the new car IS a true sports car, and they intend to prove it as evidence by by their Z33gt the car that will hopefully get them back into Le Mans nest year. And for all of you complaining about weight the Z33gt weighs 2,420lbs and makes an est. 450 bps, and all while adding a roll cage, fire extinguisher system, and other heavy race goodies, so I'm sure that if you don't care about comfort and luxery you should be able to get the weight of the 350z down to around 2,600lbs.

that's a very nice looking Z, I'm not a huge fan of pushrods but you've done some really nice work there, and I was curious what kind of air dam is on the front of the car?

motor trend tested the an R-33 GTR skyling a while back with these results 0-60 5.12 sec 1/4 mile 13.58@101.92mph slalom, 65.1 mph sport compact car tested a 350z enthusiast model with these results 0-60 5.8 sec 1/4 mile 14.0@99.2mph slalom, 70.2 mph as a drag car the skyline will always rule, but I think that as a pure sports car the new 350z will be the victor

jim cook racing offers a supercharger/efi kit for the L-28 (I'm sure it would fit an L-24) althought I think it's a roots type blower, it sounded to me like you were asking about a centrifugal supercharger. as for nissan ever offering a supercharger......you got me, i've got no idea http://www.jimcookracing.com/catalog/page24.html http://www.jimcookracing.com/ P.S. has anybody tested or seen this setup used?

it all depends: what year/model is the prelude? is your car stock? are you running flat tops? if he has a late generation SI he should be able to beat you (drivers being eaqual) any other incarnation of prelude and you should take him remember he is front drive. my brother has a 73 and I believe he launches 3000-4000. before the race drop in a bottle of octane booster, lower your rear tire pressure (for more traction), remove unnessesary items (spare tire, subs, any thing heavy), if just for one race remove air cleaner. thats all the advice I've got.....oh yeah and don't get caught, and please don't loose to a honda:devious:

thanks for the support, but I think that I am going to have to bite the bullit on this one, thanks, nick

the weather stripping in my 1970 240 desperately needs to be replaced (mainly the inner rear hatch) but motorsport wants to charge me 82 bucks for it. my questions are, is there a cheaper place I could find it? and would the cheap stuff from JC Whittney do the job right? thanks, nick