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sennavsprost

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  1. Unreal! KPGC10 as a gift.... I thought getting my S30 as a gift from a Japanese guy was impressive (which of course it still is), but wow!!
  2. Hello all, As a proud owner of a decently period modified 72 240Z, I am a total stranger to these strange gadgets and wires found on my newly aquired 74 260Z... I am trying to figure out what I can remove, tear out, throw away etc. What's the story on the Mechanical / Electric fuel pump setup? Flat top SU's are clearly a nightmare, but my desire is to simply get it running not to learn the quirks of the carburation setup. I am familiar with the round top SUs, and my Mikuni 44s no problem! Basically any links, diagrams, photos and the like of a stripped down running stock L26 w/ flattops would be awesome. I have already torn out the factory AC unit, with its completely seized compressor. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, otherwise the gloves are going on, wire cutters, wrenches etc, and that thing is coming to pieces! Thank You. Dave
  3. Well, since that's how it goes... guess I have a block problem. But I will be using a Nissan Head Gasket.
  4. Hello to all, I have been running a N42 L28 w/ N42 head and potentially an L24 Head Gasket, but the Head gasket isnt really the issue. This head/block combo has been leaking coolant on the outside of the block. Blown head gasket one would assume. So I replaced it, a year or more ago... same problem. I had the head checked for flatness however not the block. But now, I notice the exact area where it is leaking from. It appears as though on my N42 head there are pathways for coolant to flow into the block, and on the block the reciprocating end of that pathway does not exist! I never noticed this before, but as you'll see from these ugly photos, it's quite clear where the trouble lies. Anyone know what setup I should be running to avoid this problem? Enjoy the photos. And one other thing, the car still ran great at track events and in the canyons regardless of my little leakege situation, gotta love the L series.
  5. Well, this is now the second time I have posted this same question. Except this time I am using a different trans. Ok here it is: Car: 72 240z engine: N42 L28 tranny: 280Z 5 speed. I had trouble getting the clutch to engage for a while now, had to have the rod from the slave cylinder fully extended for the clutch to just barely engage. There are 3, maybe more sizes of throwout bearing collars, I have 3 and dont know which one to use to avoid this problem, i know one time putting in a 5 speed i used the longest one, and found it to be too long, and couldnt get the tranny onto the engine. Should I be using a different slave cylinder as well?? I am still using the one that came with my 4 speed, with an adjustable length rod. Here's the choices of throwout collars.
  6. Hello all, I am currently in the middle of a very simple install of the MSD 6AL ignition system. I have a 72 240, with a 280ZX electronic distributor with E12-80 Ignition module. Does anyone have any tips, or tricks that might make me avoid a headache? wiring schematic? Also where have been the best places to mount the MSD box? I have it temporarily located next to the clutch master cylinder under the acces panel. Thanks for any helpful tips. Dave.
  7. sennavsprost posted a post in a topic in Exhaust
    OK, no new story for us Z owners, exhaust fumes getting in the cockpit. However I've covered most bases, and still cant seem to figure it out... I've replaced the rear hatch seal and weatherstripping, adjusted the latch so that it closes very tight. replaced taillight gaskets, and even silicone sealed the outer edges as well of the lights. Took out interior panels and expanding latex sealed the inner fender edges, sealed around all grommets for the fuel tank lines and replaced all grommets in the rear. I even just for the sake of trying took some gaffers tape and taped my hatch shut closing all the areas where fumes could sneak in, and still fumes!! I have a side exit exhaust that when I have on, i get no fumes at all, but with any rear exiting exhaust i get fumed out like crazy... anyone have any other suggestions?? I'm going to the Monterey Historic Auto races from Los Angeles so i dont feel like breathing fumes for that long of a trip. Oh yeah one other thing, with my windows up, I dont get fumes at all, only with windows down. Dave.
  8. I have a 280ZX 5 speed in my 72 240Z... recentley I have been having trouble getting the tranny to stay in reverse, I would have to hold it in, but now I have to hold it as hard as I can, and it still barely will stay in without clicking and popping in and out, What will be the exact cause within the transmission itself? I ruled out the differential being the problem, as the car rolls freely when in neutral backwards... any suggestion?? thanks. dave.
  9. I have a rear sway bar from a 78 280Z 2+2 That I want to put on my 1972 240Z, however I do not have the factory mounting brackets that seem to be found on some 72-73 240s... I have a 73 Parts car that has the brackets on it, is there a way to cut those off, and weld them on my 72? Or is there an aftermarket bracket kit that is available? thanks. dave.
  10. sennavsprost commented on Victor Laury's comment on a gallery image in 03 Motorsport Auto Nationals
  11. sennavsprost commented on Victor Laury's comment on a gallery image in 03 Motorsport Auto Nationals
  12. Here it is, I have a 73 240 that was originally going to be a parts car, until I decided to expirement with building a turbo rally Z. I want to swap in an L28ET from a 280ZX. So assuming that I have all the hardware: L28ET complete w/ P54 block and turbo head with turbo and downpipe. Complete engine room harness, and accesories. Do I need to get the in-dash harness from the ZXT? Can I do all the wiring under the hood including building a box for the ECU and all additional wiring? I have no problem with straight wiring lights, and ignition to toggle switches inside the car, anything to avoid doing ZX electronics. If anyone has detailed swap information, links to, or pictures of completed or in process swaps feel free to e-mail, respond to this post please. It would be most helpful. Thanks. -Dave
  13. I have looked at VIN numbers and production dates... I have a 72 240Z, #HLS30-96919. That would be production date of 9/71 - 6/72. However my VIN plate in the boor jamb shows a production date of 8/72.... that would be a 73 240Z, but I had round top SUs, all the things of a 72, period! DEFINATLEY a 72 240Z. So I'm curious if there is a mistake with the stamping on my door jamb vin plate. -Dave

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