RB30-ZED

There are only two things that could be wrong in this instance, first as you say it may have a split in the diaphram. Or lastly the atmospheric valve that the push rod operates in the booster is not sealing the area in the front of the booster from the rear of the diaghram before it opens to allow the air pressure in to the rear, letting air go straight through the valve to the booster hose and inlet manifold. Big air leak Steven

Im in NSW, as far as the engineer that certified my car was concerned it only had to meet the rules and requirements of the original compliance plate. That was, as it’s a 1973 240, a PCV system and not over the noise limit of the time. I run the RB30DE with no cat or carbon canister, I run an after market engine management system. As im an Auto trade teacher myself i’ve had a good look at the rules and this is the correct way to go, but if you call the RTA you will find they don’t even understand there own rules. They told me that i would need a cat, canister and the standard computer as that was the only way they could be sure it complied with the emissions the engine was built to comply with, but its not the engine its the vehicle the rules are set for and my pre 74 only has to have a PCV and be under the noise limit. Where the confusion starts is with cars after 1976 as their ADR rule set pollution limits that you would have to prove it meets (very hard to do) unless you use an engine of the same year or newer in stock standard form including its management system. Steven

I posted this link in a forum reply, but I thought it deserved a thread of its own. Its a link to some very good OS GIKEN twin can info with photos from Datrats site. OS GIKEN Twin cam At the bottom of the page is also a link to a full PDF copy. Steven

You will find some very good info on OS GIKEN twincam 24valve engine here: OS GIKEN Steven

H Aussie260Z There are different inside diameters of threaded sleeves, and the 260 is bigger than the 240 in the strut diameter, so watch that. I got mine from Proven products but I later found them cheaper at Noelathane suspension, at $150 trade per corner. They both sell the same product which is good quality plated sleeve and anodized nuts and top spring retainer. My Suspension pics Steven

Yes but that is why you section the struts, to retain travel. I use my car for road and track, and dont change the ride hight for either, the reason i use adjustable platform is so as i change spring rates and keep the ride hight as i like it. You can add adjustable lower arm at a later date, but changing ride hight 20mm's or so has next to no effect on camber caster or toe in real terms. Steven

Ah decisions decisions And your just starting out here. It goes on and on, planning and modifying. I spend 90% of my time in the garage thinking about what and how and 10% doing, but its all good fun. One thing id like to say and I think the guys that have been playing with cars for some years would agree, is that if you have a choice between two ways to modify something pick the one that gives you the best outcome regardless of cost, because if you take the cheap easy option you will find yourself redoing it in years to come as you know it could have been better the first time. Now to give an opinion on your Question. Go with the sectioned struts "see paragragh above" Dont use standard springs "see paragragh above" Use Kings prosport springs on adjustable platforms "see paragragh above" Move inner control arm pivots up 20-30mm's "see paragragh above" Dont stress its only money Steven

Yes Scott there is certain amount of modification to be done. That's the whole point in fitting shorter inserts in to the strut. If you get a insert that is say 30 mm's shorter in its body than the original, then you can shorten your McPherson strut the same amount. I cut the amount needed out of the strut welded it back up and then fitted the threaded sleeve over that. If you retain the original spring seat you cut the section out below the spring seat and reweld. The point is if you have two lowered zeds and one has the standard struts it might only have 10mm travel to the bump stop, but the other car with sectioned struts will have 10mm plus the 30mm for a total of 40mm travel to the bump stop. Good luck Steven

OK i have found the part numbers i used. In the front struts ive used: Koni k8641-1072sport which are Toyota MR2 rear inserts In the rear i used: Koni k8641-1060sport which are Nissan 300xz front inserts not the Golf i thought i used after all. All came from Proven products Take a look at this My suspension photos Steven

Yes that exactly what ive used, with 300 front and 275 rear springs. They are both Koni top adjustable and work very well for me but id recommend that you check all your options. Ive got the part numbers somwhere if you need them.

A friend of mine installed central locking in his 77 260 and I remember that he had to mount them lower in the door and use an old bike spoke as a longer link to operate them. Steven

Hi Speedyblue I wouldnt buy a set of standard length inserts for a 240. You are much better off getting some 25-35mm shorter inserts eg VWGolf fronts for the rear and Toyota MR2 rears for the front. It is really the only way to retain some suspension travel with a slightly lowered car. Do it once , do it well Steven