undercat

Here's some good information from another forum that I frequent: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29935&highlight=vinyl+sticker It's a great site for garage info btw:) (You can see some of the images without joining, but if they were attached to the site you have to be a member) -Paul

The raised hatch area was due to the decrease in the spare tire well height which was in turn due to the fuel tank. The 75-76 did not have this. From Hybridz (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123516): In ’77, the Z received larger capacity fuel tank which encroached on the spare tire well necessitating the space saver spare, (the 240, 260 and ’75-76 280 received a full size spare tire), and also the ’77-78 rear hatch area now has a raised false floor which was to accommodate the larger fuel tank and that little deflated spare. Depending on which manufacturing plant the ‘77/78 was manufactured in dictated how the that false floor in the hatch area finished out to the rear. Some were flat level all the way back, others kicked up at 45 degrees to the hatch. -Paul

Don't waste your time on that 240 on craigslist in China Grove. I went to see it 2 weeks ago. It has so much rust it would be a huge project. The big spots include a huge hole behind the driver's seat and the whole floor pan would need replacing. It has fiberglass front fenders and hood and also a body kit I don't even recognize (the front air dam looks home made) so it's not even close to stock. There was through wall rust in multiple locations, including the A-piller and rear deck (and in the metal under that!). The only thing good was that the motor ran. I live in the University Area. PM me if you want help looking at 1st gens. I went through the same thing when I got my 75 3 years ago. -Paul

Mine seems to be doing the same thing. How did you fix it? -Paul

Glad to be a help. Gotta love those quick and easy fixes -Paul

The dim headlight could be your fuse. Even though it's not blown it could be making you headlight dim. I had this problem before and read about it on this site. I changed the fuse and it was nice and bright afterwards. Might be worth a try. -Paul

I think it looks good. What size tire are you running?

Here are a couple of good websites for diff mounting tips: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm I recommend checking out hybridz.org since there is a lot of good infomation there. -Paul

Are you having this problem with a load and without (i.e. while driving vs. in neutral)?

It could also be a cracked or unbalanced flywheel. I have an undamped/lightened flywheel in my 350z that rattles in neutral and becomes quite with the clutch depressed. My friend had the same noise on his car and it turned out his flywheel was cracked. He figured this out after he changed the transmission and clutch (he had spares so he didn't have to buy anything) but kept the flywheel and still had the noise. Hope this helps, -Paul

Actually neither of my horns worked when connected directly to the battery. I should clarify that they barely worked when I got the car and 3 months later when I finally got it running (it had sat for several years in the PO's garage) to my suprise both horns didn't work and one had no ground due to rust. I couldn't believe it either that at least one of them would have two different failure modes. It may have only had one working when I got it but I'm pretty sure it sounded like 2 tones. Either way, I ended up cleaning the rust and replacing the horns so now they work.

I had both of mine go bad at the same time and the grounding connections were rusted. An easy test is to just run 12V+ to the horn. If it doesn't work wire a solid ground to it as well to check if the ground is rusted. If it still doesn't work the horn is bad. A voltmeter will also work to tell if you are getting a ground to it (closed circuit test) and if it is getting + when you press the steering wheel.

You can get good connectors from the junk yard for cheap. There's tech tips at atanticz.ca on the connectors (http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/injectors/connectors/index.html). There should be 10 connectors of this type in you engine bay. I'm currently replacing all of mine with ones I got off of Volvo's (with nice boots and quick release). -Paul