CANDYBLUE2+2

Alright now for the final installment on my part. You want as close as you can get to the right color? Use Nissan Color Code KH2. Be sure to apply a matte finish clear to protect it as well. This has worked for countless numbers of my customers in the past and I will continue to use it in the future. Who knows, in due time maybe all will look upon my work as the correect color one day....if I get enough of them out there anyway. Good Luck.

Thanks for all the kind words. You are all truly good Z friends. I will someday soon take up that Test Drive. I have driven Todd Wagners 350 and found it to be quite exhilerating. I just have a hard time getting past those barn door handles. I hope Nissan does something about that soon. As for a next project, age is catching up and these bones aren't bending as well as I'd like them. So I'm not sure about another project just now. Hang in there, time will tell. Till then, Z Ya, John

Iv'e posted in Body and Paint on a few occasions and have had the chance to meet quite a few really good people in the process. Iv'e also owned my 260 for just over 20 years. Today I said goodebye to my old girl for the last time. We had alot of good as well as bad times, and I'll remember them all fondly. You see, I had an offer I just couldn't refuse and the young man who purchased her today had the same look in his eyes I must of had 20 years ago when I first laid my eyes on her. He's a Military Man just like I was back then. Theres only one catch to this story. In four months, he'll be putting her on a ship to take back to his home country of Kuwait. He's a Helicopter mechanic and seems like he'll be very good to my old girl. Today I said goodbye to my 260, maybe tommorow I'll say hello to a 350? We'll wait and see. Till then, I'll keep my eyes on the forums and say what needs to be said if I can. Take Care Everyone, Z Ya All Later, John

I could've wrote this. I too put a fresh L28 in my 260 2+2 and added the tripple Webbers. As any Z expert knows, any carburation upgrade on the 260 helps, as the stock carbs were, plainly put, "CRAP". Granted, my L26 was done and an L28 is better, right? Point is, I had a new car feeling, a sound unlike never before, performance out the ying yang, and let's not forget the Ohs and Ahs when the hood is lifted. BTW, I'm only about a half year away from the big 50 myself.

Thanks for the pictures Steve, it will help when I get back down there this week. It's a customers car, so I'll have to wait a bit before I can be sure I installed them correctly or not. He's bringing it back to me for a couple other issues as well, so we'll see. Thanks, John

I have etched your photo in my mind. I wonder now if installing the lower rubber seal incorrectly could have a hard to close/popping open effect on the door? Any thoughts on this? I'm in the process of trying to figure out why a once perfectly normal operating door would suddenly be so hard to open and close. All new gaskets and seals installed, fresh paint, etc....

I have one that may suit your needs, but you sound familiar, did we talk about this before? Send me an email and we'll talk about it, I already have some pictures and a price in mind. john_santiago90@yahoo.com

BTW: does any members here in the VA area know of someone who can properly tune my carbs they are in bad shape. The PO did a not so good job just a couple recommendations and phone numbers or addresses will be fine thanks in advance. Hey Man, Call the man, Todd Wagner at Tidewater Z in Poqouson VA 757-868-6753. If he can't do it, it can't be done. Tell him John @ Stans sent Ya.

Bpilati, please take note of the time frame on this job. I'll be speaking to you soon.

XRay, now thats done right. Your baby looks real good, your painter was without a doubt very thorough. When I see reflection like that all the way down to the rockers, in a color such as that, I almost thought it to be one of my creations. Whew, that's nice...can't wait till she's all done. Post pics when you can for all of us to enjoy.

I know the last post was a couple months ago, but I have to add that some folks may need some cautious reminders: 1. When using heat, be carefull not to heat the metal too much, as this can cause it to warp and create more work. 2. Compressed air is a good alternative to power washers, as theres more control and air very seldom can do the type of damage a pressure washer can. 3. If using a pressure washer/compressed air, by all means, wear eye protection. A piece of paint flying at speed into the eyes is truly painful. 4. If all else fails, pay someone who has the skills to do it.

One way I have found to keep paint on old chromed surfaces is to apply an etch primer to it after sanding it a bit. Use something like 220 grit, as anything finer probably won't scratch the surface. And anything coarser would just be too much. Of course, being cautious with ones keys helps, but can't always be accomplished. I used this method on a Lincon MKIII years ago, and that baby is still holding up well.

Let me have a go at it. I promise to keep this simple: 240Z bumpers, pretty 260Z bumpers, ugly Just my 2 cents,

Mally, I still have the old style 2 row radiator. I removed the fan/clutch completely and installed a single electric fan. The Nissan thermostat is a must, just dump the aftermarket crap, the savings are not worth the headaches. With the electric fan in place, the fan shroud is no longer needed. The car never gets above the half way mark, it now has more power without the fan clutch set-up, and is noteably, much quiter under the hood. So many have done similar set ups with varying results, but I haven't personnaly heard anyone say that they would ever change back, so somethings gotta be right here. Just my 2 cents, John

Whenever a customer asks "How soon can I wax?" Six months is the maximum wait period. 90 days would be the minimum with the BASF products I use. Funny thing is, I have products that I can use within hours of the fresh paint being baked. Mind you, not cured, but dry enough to repair runs, drips, dust specks, etc... As I tell all my customers, "I am a trained professional, do not attempt to do this on your own" that keeps them happy and I'm certain they'll wait the required time to apply any type of wax. Wax, is not polish. Polish cleans, shines and does not remain on the surface. Waxing is the protective coating for the clearcoat. It does leave a film that gives a wet look, but will trap solvents that would still be curing in a fresh paint job. Thereby causing an actual dulling of the finish as the solvent is trapped under the wax, and is now doing the exact opposite of what its intention is. So keep to the minimum or maximum cure time in mind before applying wax. Look forward to many days ahead under a shady tree in the park, detailing your Z and getting the compliments. It's a great feeling.