CANDYBLUE2+2

Alright now for the final installment on my part. You want as close as you can get to the right color? Use Nissan Color Code KH2. Be sure to apply a matte finish clear to protect it as well. This has worked for countless numbers of my customers in the past and I will continue to use it in the future. Who knows, in due time maybe all will look upon my work as the correect color one day....if I get enough of them out there anyway. Good Luck.

Thanks for all the kind words. You are all truly good Z friends. I will someday soon take up that Test Drive. I have driven Todd Wagners 350 and found it to be quite exhilerating. I just have a hard time getting past those barn door handles. I hope Nissan does something about that soon. As for a next project, age is catching up and these bones aren't bending as well as I'd like them. So I'm not sure about another project just now. Hang in there, time will tell. Till then, Z Ya, John

Iv'e posted in Body and Paint on a few occasions and have had the chance to meet quite a few really good people in the process. Iv'e also owned my 260 for just over 20 years. Today I said goodebye to my old girl for the last time. We had alot of good as well as bad times, and I'll remember them all fondly. You see, I had an offer I just couldn't refuse and the young man who purchased her today had the same look in his eyes I must of had 20 years ago when I first laid my eyes on her. He's a Military Man just like I was back then. Theres only one catch to this story. In four months, he'll be putting her on a ship to take back to his home country of Kuwait. He's a Helicopter mechanic and seems like he'll be very good to my old girl. Today I said goodbye to my 260, maybe tommorow I'll say hello to a 350? We'll wait and see. Till then, I'll keep my eyes on the forums and say what needs to be said if I can. Take Care Everyone, Z Ya All Later, John

I could've wrote this. I too put a fresh L28 in my 260 2+2 and added the tripple Webbers. As any Z expert knows, any carburation upgrade on the 260 helps, as the stock carbs were, plainly put, "CRAP". Granted, my L26 was done and an L28 is better, right? Point is, I had a new car feeling, a sound unlike never before, performance out the ying yang, and let's not forget the Ohs and Ahs when the hood is lifted. BTW, I'm only about a half year away from the big 50 myself.

Thanks for the pictures Steve, it will help when I get back down there this week. It's a customers car, so I'll have to wait a bit before I can be sure I installed them correctly or not. He's bringing it back to me for a couple other issues as well, so we'll see. Thanks, John

I have etched your photo in my mind. I wonder now if installing the lower rubber seal incorrectly could have a hard to close/popping open effect on the door? Any thoughts on this? I'm in the process of trying to figure out why a once perfectly normal operating door would suddenly be so hard to open and close. All new gaskets and seals installed, fresh paint, etc....

I have one that may suit your needs, but you sound familiar, did we talk about this before? Send me an email and we'll talk about it, I already have some pictures and a price in mind. john_santiago90@yahoo.com

BTW: does any members here in the VA area know of someone who can properly tune my carbs they are in bad shape. The PO did a not so good job just a couple recommendations and phone numbers or addresses will be fine thanks in advance. Hey Man, Call the man, Todd Wagner at Tidewater Z in Poqouson VA 757-868-6753. If he can't do it, it can't be done. Tell him John @ Stans sent Ya.

Bpilati, please take note of the time frame on this job. I'll be speaking to you soon.

XRay, now thats done right. Your baby looks real good, your painter was without a doubt very thorough. When I see reflection like that all the way down to the rockers, in a color such as that, I almost thought it to be one of my creations. Whew, that's nice...can't wait till she's all done. Post pics when you can for all of us to enjoy.

I know the last post was a couple months ago, but I have to add that some folks may need some cautious reminders: 1. When using heat, be carefull not to heat the metal too much, as this can cause it to warp and create more work. 2. Compressed air is a good alternative to power washers, as theres more control and air very seldom can do the type of damage a pressure washer can. 3. If using a pressure washer/compressed air, by all means, wear eye protection. A piece of paint flying at speed into the eyes is truly painful. 4. If all else fails, pay someone who has the skills to do it.

One way I have found to keep paint on old chromed surfaces is to apply an etch primer to it after sanding it a bit. Use something like 220 grit, as anything finer probably won't scratch the surface. And anything coarser would just be too much. Of course, being cautious with ones keys helps, but can't always be accomplished. I used this method on a Lincon MKIII years ago, and that baby is still holding up well.

Let me have a go at it. I promise to keep this simple: 240Z bumpers, pretty 260Z bumpers, ugly Just my 2 cents,

Mally, I still have the old style 2 row radiator. I removed the fan/clutch completely and installed a single electric fan. The Nissan thermostat is a must, just dump the aftermarket crap, the savings are not worth the headaches. With the electric fan in place, the fan shroud is no longer needed. The car never gets above the half way mark, it now has more power without the fan clutch set-up, and is noteably, much quiter under the hood. So many have done similar set ups with varying results, but I haven't personnaly heard anyone say that they would ever change back, so somethings gotta be right here. Just my 2 cents, John

Whenever a customer asks "How soon can I wax?" Six months is the maximum wait period. 90 days would be the minimum with the BASF products I use. Funny thing is, I have products that I can use within hours of the fresh paint being baked. Mind you, not cured, but dry enough to repair runs, drips, dust specks, etc... As I tell all my customers, "I am a trained professional, do not attempt to do this on your own" that keeps them happy and I'm certain they'll wait the required time to apply any type of wax. Wax, is not polish. Polish cleans, shines and does not remain on the surface. Waxing is the protective coating for the clearcoat. It does leave a film that gives a wet look, but will trap solvents that would still be curing in a fresh paint job. Thereby causing an actual dulling of the finish as the solvent is trapped under the wax, and is now doing the exact opposite of what its intention is. So keep to the minimum or maximum cure time in mind before applying wax. Look forward to many days ahead under a shady tree in the park, detailing your Z and getting the compliments. It's a great feeling.

I'm in the buiseness here Stateside, Virginia to be exact, and all I can say is, hold on to all your evidence, if you still have it. Proving something like that is gonna be a challenge. DIY is by all means the most accurate way to get things done to ones satisfaction. Add to that, you learn more about your vehicle and cars in general when you get down and dirty with them. The fun factor and bragging rights go so much farther as well, and the horror stories will come to an abrupt end. I don't know a thing about Aussie Laws but good luck and let us know the outcome of your efforts. I'd just like to see how it all turns out.

This very same thing happened to me on my way home from my first show. Scared the hell out of me, as there was no place to pull off the road and I thought I'm gonna be driving a fireball down the road to god knows where. Got it back to my shop, took the covers off and found nothing but a bit of dust to blow out. I actually waited around longer just to be sure I wasn't gonna come back on Monday morning to find the whole building burned down, thats how scary it was. Haven't had the problem since, but I'm sure I'll need to replace the light switch soon, as the headlights are getting a bit slow to react when turned on.

I must chime in here as no one seems to have touched on the A/C removal issue. Doing this leaves two large openings for engine compartment fumes of all kinds to get in. This could be some of what your smelling. I removed my A/C as well, and in the process of blocking the old access holes, discovered many other smaller holes that were plugged or filled with a screw, etc... I'm not saying this will cure all your smelly problems, but it's certainly worth a look. Keep in mind, these older style pre smog days engines all have there own smell unlike any of the newer stuff on the roads today. If I don't drive mine and blow out the gunk from time to time, it'll run you out of the building if left to idle in place for a couple minutes. Good luck with the fix and let us know how of your results.

Having turned every nut and bolt by hand, restoring it, modifying it, loving it for all it's worth, showing her off to all my friends and other Z enthusiasts...the list goes on and on, and talking about it all with you guys is an added bonus. Long Live The "Z"!!!!:knockedou

MrCamouflage, I gotta know, is that a 280 hood on a 240, or 240 turn signals on a 280? The latter seems like a bit too much work for me!Looks good, flares are nice at any angle as well. And I think I know what I'm gonna do with that extra 240 grille I had laying around, it fills the void right nice....Thanks for your unknowing help.

If the mirror is attached like the model I'm lookin at in your thumbnail. Two phillips head screws should be all thats holding it on from the outside. If thats the case, then theres a piece about 31/2 to4 inches long inside the door that will probably fall inside the door once the two screws are removed. If so, you won't have to do anything inside(unless the metal plate rattling around in there becomes annoying). Then that leaves you with what to do with your two new holes in your doors sheet metal. Oh the dilema of owning these old carsLOL

I have installed many weatherstrip kits from both Victoria British (Now Black Dragon) and MSA, as well as Precision. There all very good, Precision seems to have put more thought into the hatch gaskets in the last few years. Some models are different in size as compared to others, Go Figure! My best advice is install it after you have painted the jambs, use only 3M 's Black weatherstrip adhesive. If your not painting, then you had better be ready to do an awful lot of very careful cleaning. And lastly, as the previous writer noted, these kits are not as complete as I'd like them to be, so plan on getting a whole lot of little extras as well. P.S. Patience will also be very helpfull!!!

In the 5th photo, am I mistaken or is that the longest antena mast ever on a Z? And the reflection of the trees in the hatch in the same photo shows great depth. Nicely Done my friend. The other Z in the pic, is that yours too? And no wonder you have heat and AC in the garage, is that also your line of work? The vans a dead giveaway!

That is one sweet arse garage you have there. Gonna catch hell though after all the spraying is done. Overspray gets everywhere, especially bright yellow. Your work so far looks pretty damn good for an at home job. Keep those pics comong, I love to see other peoples work.