59ghia

Just received my new poly bushings and there are no outside sleeves. I've read former threads and everybody seems to be cuttin', chislin' the old ones out. So can I assume the poly's don't require an outside sleeve? I have my own press so I'll get them out in one piece. Thanks Dave

Just picked up a set of Tokico's from a place called shox.com, great prices! 250 for a set of four, and the Eibach's were/are 209 my springs are on backorder.www.shox.com They don't post their prices on the web, you need to either call or get a quote.

Sounds like a fuel pump, maybe getting weak. You'll need a fuel pressure guage to check it. Unless someone knows a quick and dirty way.....

I think the later models had two rear struts on the hatch, correct?

How about a bent front or rear stub axle? I have no idea how to test this, maybe jack up one corner at a time, and spin the wheel? Put a dial indicator on outside of rim and spin? Or have a friend drive alongside of you and check the wheels at speed? Using cell phone in this situation helps communicate better. Just some ideas

Had the same problem, ended up using a monster puller. You may be able to rent one. Don't forget to put on a couple of lug nuts because when it pops it pops big time! Good luck! and don't forget after you get it off to clean the seating areas real well and apply some anti-sieze Dave

I have no idea how long this has been a problem, when the guy gave me the car he said it had been doing this for awile. When I changed the fluid prior to putting the car on the road it came out kinda thick, as in pudding! Well the first few ounces came out like real 80wt, the rest I had to scoop out! I guess I should have assumed at this point I could expect problems. I'll drop the rear end this weekend replace all the bushings and see whats up. If I'm lucky I'll be ok with the side bearings and seals. So you say a slide hammer is all I need to pull these? Is the inner race a press fit on the axle stub? (inboard). Thanks again, Dave

2many, The play is not rotating play, ie if i grab the inboard u-joint and twist, i get movement. But when i grab that same inboard u-joint and move up and down, or horizontally I get movement. Does that make sense? If i move it up the gap on top gets smaller and the gap down low gets larger. I will definatly go-ahead and pull that rear inspection plate and investigate deeper. Thanks for the input! Dave

I have a clunk, Its coming from the diff where the axle bolts to the diff itself. If I grab the axle theres alot of play where it goes into the diff. I was looking thru my VB catalog and noticed they sell a diff bearing race and seals. I believe these are the culprit. Is this bearing race a complete bearing? Has anybody replaced these? Any tips or tricks to doing this? Its not the u-joints. Thanks Dave p.s its a '72 w/r180

Fellow Zers Gotta check out this ride on e-bay! I've been building engines for awile, ok, mostly VW's. So now that I've got a Z thing go'in on I enjoy see'in how others have built their rides. So, is this old school or what! Stock mainfold, and a turbo drawin thru an SU! Sorry no link, couldn't paste it in there Item #1834420797

Try pluging the "good" light into the "bad" socket first. When you ran the 9 volt battery you may have been checking the Hi beam filament.

I'm running the petronix, It's used in place of points and condensor, and all of it fits under distrib cap. Not sure what the MSD's purpose in life is, but the petronix alone, with a high voltage coil, should be enough. Hope this helps.......

2many, eric I'd go for the front spoiler, let me know Dave

Sounds like Nissan had a factory 180 lsd. What year cars had them? Thanx Dave

Hello fellow Zers, My front carb throttle shaft seems to be hanging up. I've disassembled and cleaned all the pivot points but the problem is still there. What kind of grease do you use? I've used a lithium based grease. Is there a way to lube throttle shafts without complete disassembly? These are on my 72 with round top su's. I've checked for vacuum leaks using Berrymans carb cleaner and none were detected. The throtlle shaft is snug with little or no play in them. If i blip the throttle in goes to normal idle speed, from around 1200 rpm. I know its the front because I can push down where the spring goes and it moves down. I tried swapping springs nothing. Any ideas? Thanx Dave

Just a thought, but you may want to check the upper bulb. It may be a two filament bulb, one for brake, on for turn signal. If you terminate the turn signal wire this may solve the problem. Just an idea worth trying before running new wires. Dave

Mike, When I installed the petronix I wanted to remove the plate but one screw wouldn't budge, the one thats kinda in a corner so i couldn't grab it with vice grips. I lubed the he!! out of everything, and went from there. The bushings are tight. I'll also give Daniels idea a try since its easy enough. 2many. the alternators new, old one had bad bearings and howled like crazy, not a sound you like to here when you first start a motor! Thanks-- Dave

Ran the vacuum test, still fm to me but I think I get the idea. Not real far off considering its got 100k on it. No real funky readings but on hard accel the vacuum drops to around zero which indicates, according to Clymer, worn rings or diluted oil.--------- oils fine. But lets go to timeing chain, when I adjusted the valves I checked the chain, it seemed a little sloppy to me but when I checked the notches on the cam the slash was dead center to the groove and I think that means its not to bad. (should be to the left ?) Whatta think? new chain? I think I'll check the tensioner first, What should I look for?If so who has them cheap....errr inexpensive? Motorsport wants 85 for one.(chain) Ok enough ramblin' I need a beer!!!! Dave

I new I left something out, Running a petronix with a new 40k coil. Fresh wires, plugs, cap and rotor. Was thumbing through one of my manuals and saw info on vacuum diagnosis, always saw this as fm, but has pics of guages under varing conditions. I think I have a vacuum guage in the garage somewhere. I'll give that a shot and see what I come up with. I'll let ya'll know what I find.

Hello fellow Zer's Here's the scoop, stock 72, my baby pulls really well up to 4500 rpm then starts feeling "unbalanced" and does'nt pull as well. Seems it should be smooth up till redline or close to it. The carbs have been rebuilt, and are sync'ed spot on. timing is on, valves adjusted etc. Compression is alittle low (150 psi) but even between all 6. Car sat for 5 years before I got her, so I'm think'in maybey the valve springs have weakened? Here's another possible problem- whats the total advance of this distributor? I'm getting about 10 degrees when i rap the throttle, is this enough? Any ideas? Thanks Dave

When you say plugs are "wet" what do you mean? are they oily wet or smell of gas? I would clean those plugs as best as possible. If they are black and sooty lookin they are fouled and probably are not providing much spark. Clean the plugs with emery cloth for now. Make sure to get between the electrodes. But it's been my experience, once they're fouled they re-foul real easily. If at all possible replace the plugs. My guess is the points are ok since the other cylinders are not affected. Hope this helps.

Rich The negative lead on the coil goes to the distrib. Its black on my 72. The positive on the coil goes to the ballast resistor. There is another wire thats in the loom of the distributor and that goes to the water temp (I think, going off memory here) sending unit. Hope this helps, Dave

Had the exact same problem, Mine was a coil problem, Sounds like you covered that. Ballast would be next. If you have a volt meter bring it. Check for 12v at coil with ignition on. No v there work your way back. Could be ignition switch. Is Distributor rotating? Bring a long jumper wire. If its the ignition switch, You can "hot wire" it home. Hope it helps good luck!

Been there, I too was given a 240- this a 1972. I squirted oil into spark plug holes. I also removed valve cover and poured half a quart of oil over cam and valves. Also Yes regarding seperate system on clutch. There is a master, below and to the right (when looking from front) of the brake master. And a slave with a flexible line at bell housing. I also used a propane torch to "warm up" the rear end and tranny fluid. Sounds like you've got everything else covered. Good luck and enjoy!! They're fun cars and easy to work on.

You don't have to get the complete carb, for 175 bucks they'll put those roller shafts in (you by a carb body and send in your bodies as a core) then 150 bucks for the rebuild kit and video. video is real good. and boom, for 325 bucks you have z-therapy carbs. Of course your linkedge won't be real pretty.