WW2Winger

Welcome fellow Texan. This forum is a great source of information and very helpful, knowledgeable folks.

I'll take the two outside door handles if still available. Jim K.

Tim, pictures look great. You are doing a good job. When I went to headers, it brought the primary tubes out away from the head and directly below the carbs as I see in your pictures. The excessive heat worried me, so I built an extension onto the heat shield which comes out underneath the carbs. Works great. Mine is a track mostly car. FYI

I've been working with a World Challenge series team this year. World Challenge is within the SCCA Pro Series. Last week we were at VIR. This was my first time at VIR. I've been to many tracks and I would like to say congratulations to all of you who either frequent VIR or are connected in any way. What a beautiful place. Everyone was very helpful and the track is great. I look forward to going there again.

Jon Mortensen, with the new style G.C. camber plates, do you still reccommend putting them on top of the strut tower vs. up underneath?

Agree with Marty. I went with Toyota and was not satisfied. Call Dave at Arizona Z. Wilwoods are good!

I know this thread is a bit old but I am installing a Quaife unit and I have measured and measured and if I put the long side flange shaft in the drivers side, they snap right into place and appear to be the same distance from the diff. housing. I know this is not supposed to be right, but when they snap in the other way, the passenger side flange is about 3/8 inch out too far. Any reason not to run it like I have it since it appears to be centered etc.? Thanks

Same part number. The factory used the same control arm for both sides. One is just upside down. You have another problem, not this one. Sorry

I run Tokico springs and Illumina shocks which lowered the car about an inch. On my Rewinds, 15 x 7, I run 225/50/15 Toyo RA1s. No rubbing

My track weekend at Texa World Speedway was also very good. No scratches, no breakdowns. My Rebello power is awesome! Still need to tweek various items, but that will always be the case. We had about 120 cars at our event and the weather was perfect. Steven, glad you got the first one under your belt. I am anxious to hear more. Maybe we cam meet up at another track day here in Texas.

Sorry Stephen, I didn't read closely enough to catch the date. Where is the track day? On the 13th and 14th I will be back at TWS in College Station doing a Drivers Edge track day. I sent you a PM last time we went there inviting you to drive over. I never got a response. Let me know where your track day is.... About tire pressures...it really depends on the tire. In our weather these days, expect to pick up from 3 to 5 pounds pressure at temperature. I run Toyo RA1s and they like to be around 35, so I start at 30 PSI. Some other tire like Hoosiers, Yokohama, etc., may like different pressures, I don't know. Also, be sure to warm the tires and brakes.

OK, so how did it go. Give us your impressions.

All above is good advice. Mine is simple... Don't overestimate your skills. Driving at speed is a learned skill and the more you do it, the better you get. A year from now, you will look back and realize how little you knew. Take it one step at a time and respect your instructors input. Enjoy the experience, like Marty said, be prepared to become addicted and broke. Road racing is addictive AND expensive.

Since mine is a predominantly track car, I removed the valve in the rear and replaced it with the proportioning valve. It is before the "T" in the rear system. It took a little plumbing to do it, but wasn't too bad. Works great!

I have the 240 SX kit on the rear. I like the parking brake setup even though I don't use it much anymore. With the proper pads and bias adjustment, they have performed well. I have the 280 ZX 15/16 master cylinder which is pretty much required when you go to the Wilwoods on the front. My proportioning valve is also Wilwood. I got all Wilwood parts from Dave at Arizona Z. He is very helpful and knowledgeable. Right now, I am very brake happy. This gives me time to address other issues, yes, I know, there will always be other issues!

I'll keep this as short as I can. I hope this helps someone who finds themselves in the same places that I have been. I have a '71 Z that I bought to just have some fun with. The stock brakes work good for every day driving and robust driving that does not require frequent hard stops. Trust me. When I started to get more serious about going fast I upgraded to the MSA "Big Brake" kit. The Toyota setup with vented, drilled and slotted rotors stop very well with the right pads,(Raybestos ST) but under severe treatment, they crack the rotors. Trust me. I then put more horsepower into the car and hence, I' going even faster. I finally bit the bullet and installed Wilwoods on the front and now I have real brakes that will not only stop, but can be modulated properly instead of "grabbing". I installed the larger master cylinder and a proportioning valve. Having it to do all over again, if I had known that I was going to be going fast and, therefore, stopping fast and often, I would have gone straight to the real stuff. A lesson learned and now shared. I'm not the fastest out there, but with these brakes, I can now get faster since now I have the brakes that can handle the abuse. That's about all I have right now, by the way, PM me if you would like some Toyota SW-12 calipers and some very good Raybestos pads. I' sure we can make a deal.

Don't mean to hyjack the thread, but where can I find a gear reduction starter? Courtesy says they are NLA. Thanks all!

Welcome to this forum. Great people and tons of information. I live in Granbury and have a '71 that I use for track days. Lots of modifications which continue. I don't thjink it ever stops. Good luck on your search

That's what I have in my car and am reasonably pleased. My next upgradewill probably be coilovers as the one inch lower was just not enough. I track my car so lower is better whereas too low on a street car is problematic. Overall, the Tokico setup is good, especially the adjustability.

Wish I was closer Dave, sounds good.

I have a '71 Z that is lowered using Tokico struts and springs. I run Rewinds in 15/7 with 225/50/15 shaved Proxes. All good, no clearance issues. Don't know about 280. I don't run the center caps because they don't fit over the dust caps on the front. Since they are plastic, and since I track my car, it's better to just leave them off!

Pads depend on application and budget. Talk to "Tim" at Porterfield. He will listen to your application and sell you what is best for you.

Does it not rev past 4500, or does the tach just say it's not reving past 4500? Upon first installation, mine ran fine but the tach stopped at around 4500. I changed the coil to a different ohm and it works great now. ZSONDABRAIN wrote a good write up on this issue.

Isn't the choice of throwout bearing collar a function of the clutch setup? If he didn't change the clutch and pressure plate, why would he have to change the collar? My impression was that the 280 Z pressure plate was a different height on the springs and that is what required a different length collar. The input shafts of both transmissions is the same and the mounting position is the same. Did I miss something stupid?

Wow, I never heard that one before ..........